Engine VOD Cleaning----To paint or Not to paint? [Archive] - DMCTalk Forum

Delorean Industries

11-18-2012, 07:17 PM

The best thing to do is clean your engine valley as regularly as possible. This is not an option for a lot of owners as it is a bit of work/expensive if you are paying someone constantly to go into the VOD. If you are going to go the coating route it is very important to clean and etch the block to allow for proper adhesion of the paint. The only paint to use is POR-15 engine enamel.

Here is our gasket kit offering to tear down to the valley. It is also recommended to check/replace hoses while you are in there.
https://www.deloreanindustries.com/shop/parts/kits/kits-engine/intake-o-ring-kit-complete.html

If hose replacement is required this kit is recommended:
https://www.deloreanindustries.com/shop/parts/kits/kits-engine/water-pump-install-kit.html

Josh Bengston
President
Delorean Performance Industries
433 Munroe Falls Road
Tallmadge Ohio 44278
330 573 4129
www.deloreanindustries.com

kings1527

11-19-2012, 12:31 AM

I'm doing my VOD this winter and have read different opinions about the painting of the VOD after the clean up......Plus what is the best kit of gaskets and the such to get for the reassembly? I had a slave cylinder leak when I installed my bleader tube. All fixed now, but know that I have a mess to clean up. I want to get to it before it becomes a problem.

I was in the same position as you about a month ago. I did a lot of research on the subject and decided against doing a POR15 job. Tearing down the valley is pretty easy to do; it just takes time. When I first did it, it took me a solid four hours to remove the intake. That included taking notes, tagging, taking pics, etc. After I got everything all put back together, I had to get back down to the distributor to fix something and I broke everything down again, including the air mixture unit, fixed the problem, and put everything back together including the pipe of agony in about an hour and 45 minutes. So point being, after you do it one time, getting in there again is pretty simple.

I'd save yourself the hassle of potentially causing more problems by doing a POR15 job. There are four channels on the engine that are about a good 6" deep and cleaning those out were a real pain. I cleaned them out good, but I wouldn't feel comfortable painting over them. Your engine looks clean to begin with, plus after you give it a good cleaning, any subsequent cleanings on an annual basis won't be anywhere near as bad. I cleaned out 31 years of buildup in about 12-14 hours worth of work. It won't be like that next year and I definitely won't have to worry about POR15 peeling away and causing issues since there isn't any there.

Like I said, your engine looks clean and I'm sure you'll pick up on a coolant leak sooner than later if it happens. Corrosion through the block won't happen overnight but rather over a long, extended period of time of exposure. Here are some pics of the progress along the way; before and after.

Alex
6575

1493414935

Nicholas R

11-19-2012, 04:43 AM

Trust me DO NOT paint the valley.

I painted my PRV valley with POR-15 back in 2009. Here's how it looked when I was done:

https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/2130_592553401285_5763_n.jpghttps://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash4/2130_592553406275_6026_n.jpg
Beautiful right? What could go wrong?

When I pulled the engine last winter and had it sitting on the stand, I tried to peer into the valley and noticed this:

WTF I thought? What the heck is that?
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG_1878.jpg

Decided to pull the intake manifold and this is what I found.
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG_1887.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG_1888.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG_1890.jpg

This is after I began the process of trying to clean and strip it again.
http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/IMG_1892.jpg

I was meticulous about the application process for this back in 2009. I cleaned the valley like crazy with every safe cleaner and degreaser out there. It was from about March 2009-January 2012 that this POR-15 was on there. Probably accumulated ~10,000mi in that time period.

Seriously, just clean it once, then add it to your maintenance schedule to clean out the valley every 2 or 3 years. There is no reason to paint it.

WelmoedJ

11-19-2012, 05:34 AM

Trust me DO NOT paint the valley.
Seriously, just clean it once, then add it to your maintenance schedule to clean out the valley every 2 or 3 years. There is no reason to paint it.

+1 on both.
There's also the risk of a higher engine temperature if painted.
Paint is an extra layer of "insulation" that could contribute to more heat than the engine's cooling system can handle.
The thickness of such a layer also is of influence.

The "adding to the maintenance schedule" and the interval depends on the car's whereabouts whille parked.
If you park your car outside and under trees, yes you need to clean the VoD more often.
Otherwise you could set a longer interval.

kings1527

11-19-2012, 06:04 AM

Wow, that's brutal Nick. I was really close to doing this. Really close. I'm glad I decided against it but sorry you had to go through that.

Anyone want to buy a POR15 starter kit from me????:deviltail:

Alex
6575

Bitsyncmaster

11-19-2012, 06:16 AM

Very good photos of why to not use POR-15. I used enamel paint on mine and wonder if it looks the same. Although it may depend if you get an antifreeze leak. Maybe even rain water will do the same.

MML

11-19-2012, 06:57 AM

I remember seeing photos somewhere of a VOD with aluminium plates welded over the holes to close them off completely... what does everyone think of that?

WelmoedJ

11-19-2012, 07:34 AM

I remember seeing photos somewhere of a VOD with aluminium plates welded over the holes to close them off completely... what does everyone think of that?

For me goes: "Not in my (D's) lifetime!"

Those recesses are there for a reason (at least I presume).
Think of expanding the total surface available for external cooling (to the air).

Closing those recesses will create a heat pocket.
What that can do to the engine, I do not know.
I only can guess it won't be something you're going to like.

David T

11-19-2012, 01:38 PM

Great pictures to show how difficult it is to get the surface clean enough so the paint will adhere. Probably the best advice is to just clean it up as good as you can.
David Teitelbaum

DMCMW Dave

11-19-2012, 04:16 PM

Anyone want to buy a POR15 starter kit from me????:deviltail:

Alex
6575

Save it for your frame.

dmc3130

11-19-2012, 06:16 PM

Delorean Industries

11-19-2012, 06:27 PM

kings1527

11-19-2012, 06:46 PM

Wow, thanks for all the advice. It looks the verdict is in.....NO Paint!! Josh gave me a link of some gasket kits to get for the reassembley. Does any one have any other suggestions??? Plus I was going to clean and paint the valve covers to make things look better. I was thinking of even going with a differante color (Red). What do you think?

Stephen

You're right on my heels with this. I just painted my valve covers using Stainless Steel paint from Seymour Industries. I also ordered their Self-Etching Primer they have and it works great. It won't have the same durability as powdercoating but it looks great and is pretty cost effective.

http://www.seymourpaint.com/stainless_steel_paint.html

It's good up to 250 degrees. After I painted them, I used a clear coat by VHT for added durability. Here are the before and afters:

14941149421494314944

I'm putting together a blog as we speak that includes everything from valve cover reconditioning, replacing the oil sending unit, replacing the radiator, radiator fans, reconditioning the air mixture unit, replacing fuel lines, etc. A ton of engine work. I'm almost ready to post it here but not quite yet! Still a little work to do on it! But soon...

Alex
6575

dmc3130

11-19-2012, 07:42 PM

You're right on my heels with this. I just painted my valve covers using Stainless Steel paint from Seymour Industries. I also ordered their Self-Etching Primer they have and it works great. It won't have the same durability as powdercoating but it looks great and is pretty cost effective.

http://www.seymourpaint.com/stainless_steel_paint.html

It's good up to 250 degrees. After I painted them, I used a clear coat by VHT for added durability. Here are the before and afters:

14941149421494314944

I'm putting together a blog as we speak that includes everything from valve cover reconditioning, replacing the oil sending unit, replacing the radiator, radiator fans, reconditioning the air mixture unit, replacing fuel lines, etc. A ton of engine work. I'm almost ready to post it here but not quite yet! Still a little work to do on it! But soon...

Alex
6575

That Looks great, I was thinking about break caliper paint on the valve covers so I could maybe do Red. Should hold up to the heat. Or should I use a ceramic paint? The powder coating would be the most durable for sure.

dmc3130

11-19-2012, 07:43 PM

If you are going to quote the covers I would recommend powder coating. We can coat the engine covers anything you would like and exchange out for your old units to help with turn around time.

That would save on time, What would the front cover and valve covers run??????

kings1527

11-19-2012, 09:15 PM

That Looks great, I was thinking about break caliper paint on the valve covers so I could maybe do Red. Should hold up to the heat. Or should I use a ceramic paint? The powder coating would be the most durable for sure.

You're not dealing with a ton of heat on the covers unless you overheat your car on a regular basis. I don't see a high heat temperature paint being necessary, which means you can use pretty much whatever you'd like. But I'd definitely go with something that has SOME type of heat resistant rating to it. Caliper paint should be fine.

Alex
6575

David T

11-19-2012, 10:10 PM

kings1527

11-19-2012, 10:25 PM

Don't get so caught up over the temp rating and forget how important cleaning and prep is so whatever you choose will stick! If you do engine parts, and choose to use some kind of blasting media you MUST get the parts scrupulously clean. ANY media left inside a baffle or crevice will get loose and destroy the innards of the motor. Plenty of horror stories about rebuilt motors with parts that were blasted and then ruined because some media was not cleaned out. Very common to accent the motor by painting or chroming the valve covers (on other make cars). On a Delorean they are not very noticeable.
David Teitelbaum

Good point with that. During my foray into redoing my engine, I used soda along the way as my blasting media. It was great for light-moderate applications but the best benefit was being able to wash the part after I was done which caused the blast media to dissolve and not leave anything behind for reassembly.

Alex
6575

vwdmc16

11-20-2012, 02:13 AM

Also keep in mind if you want to do the timing cover, that is a whole lot or more work. You'll be pulling the crank pulley, water pump for sure, exhaust system and that factory gaskets usually take alot of labor to completely remove, might as well pull the rear fascia to be able to get at all that. For all that work it will look amazing. But whatever you decide, im down with giving you a hand!

Morpheus

11-20-2012, 09:17 AM

I can see Nick's very convincing reason to not use POR-15 in the valley, but what about powder coating your block? I had planned to strip mine down, hot-tank it, and have it powdercoated along with the oil pan, valve covers and timing cover. The heads will probably be the only thing not powdercoated. Good idea or no?

David T

11-20-2012, 09:41 AM

Morpheus

11-20-2012, 09:46 AM

Powder coating the block will make it look pretty but again you still have to get it clean. Powder coating is very unforgiving about applying it on dirt. It will just fall off. There are no solvents in it to help it stick. You need an oven large enough to heat the block up to melt the powder.
David Teitelbaum

That's where the hot-tanking comes in. It will be clean as a whistle before the powder is applied by a professional. My question was: Is there any reason to NOT powder coat the block, oil pan, timing cover and valve covers? Should I expect the same results as Nick had with the POR-15?

Nicholas R

11-20-2012, 12:53 PM

That's where the hot-tanking comes in. It will be clean as a whistle before the powder is applied by a professional. My question was: Is there any reason to NOT powder coat the block, oil pan, timing cover and valve covers? Should I expect the same results as Nick had with the POR-15?

I believe you'll be fine. I've seen plenty of powder coated oil pans, timing covers, and valve covers; you'd be the first block. You can do high temp powder coating that is unaffected up to like 1200 degrees F. You'll certainly be in for a lot of work, but damn would it look good. If you hot tank it and get it clean, there's no reason why you wouldn't have good results. :D

jawn101

11-20-2012, 05:24 PM

David T

11-20-2012, 05:59 PM

Once you get the powder to stick you should not have a problem. You WILL have to remove the powder from any machined surfaces and any threaded holes. I would not use it on any internal surfaces. For that I would use Glyptal. Hot-tanking may not be sufficiently clean. You might have to blast it A) to get it clean and B) to rough up the surface enough to give the powder a rough enough surface to stick. Blasting will also give the entire surface an even finish so the paint job will be smooth and consistent all over. Try to have all of the parts done at the same time so they will all be the same color. The best way to paint it may be to assemble the parts (the block, heads, and covers only) and then take it apart, put the parts in and then reassemble.
David Teitelbaum

vwdmc16

11-20-2012, 08:41 PM

FYI hot tanks ( atleast the strong old style that works) are not legal in CA either, blasting will be sufficient and available.

dmc3130

11-20-2012, 10:31 PM

Yep Stephen, just let us know. It will be fun :)

You got it bud, I'm looking forward to getting this done for next spring/ summer. I was thinking some time after Christmas and New Years. Maybe remove the rear bumper and get at all that stuff at the same time. Also re coat my exhaust better this time. We could do yours to if you would like.

jawn101

11-20-2012, 11:12 PM

You got it bud, I'm looking forward to getting this done for next spring/ summer. I was thinking some time after Christmas and New Years. Maybe remove the rear bumper and get at all that stuff at the same time. Also re coat my exhaust better this time. We could do yours to if you would like.

Not a bad idea, provided it would dry/harden quick enough that I could get it back home :)

Or you could just bring it by on one of your little trips... lol

dmc3130

11-21-2012, 04:52 PM

Not a bad idea, provided it would dry/harden quick enough that I could get it back home :)

Or you could just bring it by on one of your little trips... lol

I would have to bring it by later because the ceramic coating has to set up for like 7 day before you put alot of heat ot it.

vwdmc16

11-21-2012, 06:39 PM

Id be interested in having that done to my system too, if the price isnt too much.

dmc3130

11-22-2012, 12:08 AM

Id be interested in having that done to my system too, if the price isnt too much.

Are you talking about the exhaust recoating???? We can do that by a rattle can. You use VHT (very high temp. 1300-2000 deg.)ceramic based paint. prep by wire wheel and stripping pads, prime and paint. I love the way it looks from the back. Especialy since you see soooo much of the muffler from there.

vwdmc16

11-22-2012, 02:01 AM

Oh I thought you were taking it to a place that does ceramic coating that is baked on or something.

dmc3130

11-22-2012, 01:18 PM

Oh I thought you were taking it to a place that does ceramic coating that is baked on or something.

No, You have seen mine before, but the last time I did it I couldn't find the right primer. Now I found the right primer sooo I think it will stick better. You can't see it very well in this pic

dmc3130

02-18-2013, 07:34 PM

I'm in the process of doing my VOD. I'm at the point now were I was thinking of recoating the valve covers in a wrinkle RED coating just to add a little color the the engine bay but not too much. Has anyone done this and if so do they have any pics?. I might do 1 side and see how it looks.

jawn101

02-18-2013, 08:12 PM

Hey Stephen, check this post out - might help you some?

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?p=90684#post90684

dmc3130

02-18-2013, 08:29 PM

Hey Stephen, check this post out - might help you some?

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?p=90684#post90684

Yeh, I just saw that. His is shinny, and I was going with the Lotas look, but I was thinking about exposing some of the aluminum like he did.

jawn101

02-18-2013, 10:05 PM

Yeh, I just saw that. His is shinny, and I was going with the Lotas look, but I was thinking about exposing some of the aluminum like he did.

I think Clint did his 3.0 Premier valve covers with wrinkle red, maybe he'd send you some pics of that - but it's a different looking motor and not installed in a car so you'd have to use your imagination a bit.

vwdmc16

02-19-2013, 04:06 PM

dmc3130

02-19-2013, 04:30 PM

that's right I did do my 3.0 valve covers in red, I will find some pics for you later however they did not wrinkle that well, I painted them before I perfected my wrinkle technique. personally I think re
d would be too brash and bright for your beautifully clean car

Ya, I know were your coming from. I was just trying to get a little color in the engine bay without getting out of hand. I was thinking of just doing 1 side to see if I like it. Other then that just waiting on some small parts and we can put things back together!!!!!!!:frantic:

vwdmc16

02-19-2013, 08:06 PM

VHT sells a greywrinkle that looks awesome but is hard to find, will have to order it

jawn101

02-19-2013, 09:30 PM

Stephen, if you're just after some color why not do something like red fuel lines and blue silicone vacuum lines or something? That would be totally reversible and cheap-ish while actually being a little useful (helps to distinguish one from another at a glance) and have the benefit of giving you brand new lines to boot.

DeLorean03

02-20-2013, 10:33 AM

Well I just finally saw this thread today and figured I'd chime in with what I did. I painted the inner part of my valley with Glyptal paint from Eastwood.

16723

Here is a link for it:

http://www.eastwood.com/glyptal-red-brush-on-1-qt.html

Yes, it does insulate, but not THAT much. The main thing is this stuff is acid and corrosion resistant, making it ideal for our car's VOD. I applied two coats and have been letting it sit for a week this coming Thursday. I'll let everyone know the progress of the car as the years go by (whether it made my car blow up or not).

HillBillyDMC here suggested it to me, and I trust his knowledge and word to the brink of death (: .

Jack

02-20-2013, 10:52 AM

DeLorean03

02-20-2013, 01:54 PM

Agreed, and if that lil bit of paint I applied is going to make my engine blow up, I will laugh myself silly and install something else.

chris williams

02-20-2013, 01:59 PM

I painted the inner part of my valley with Glyptal paint from Eastwood

I will second this product, I used it in a VOD probably 6 or seven years ago and it's still as good as the day it was applied. Though as with everything preperation is everything!

Chris

dmc3130

02-25-2013, 06:40 PM

Just an update on my VOD porject. I did one of my valve covers in VHT wrinkle Red, then removed some of the raised areas to give it some depth. I think that that I really like the added color to the engine bay. Plus the red is very much like the Lotas coloring. I did a side by side to see the differance. Let me know what you all think!:thumbup2:

jawn101

02-25-2013, 06:50 PM

Looks good man! I like the detail work.

Nicholas R

02-25-2013, 07:20 PM

Insulation does not add heat.
I'm reminded of the late great Ernest P. Worrell, "A thermos keeps your drinks cold and your soups hot, but how does it know?"
Insulation improves an objects ability to retain a temperature over time.
Insulation will not increase an engines temperature.
It will however make it heat up faster, and stay hot longer once coolant flow has stopped.

This is only half right. Yes the insulation does not add heat but it does reduce the materials rate of heat loss. If there is a constant rate of heating, the rate of cooling must equal or exceed the rate of heating. The relationship between those two rates dictates what temperature the material (or engine in this case) equalizes at. If you decrease the rate of cooling, then that temperature where the rates equalize will be higher. Its the same reason why with a bigger radiator or stronger fans you increase your cooling rate, and your engine maintains a lower temperature.

Now, all that being said, I think a little bit of paint in the center of the valley is pretty negligible. I dont think anyone expects the valley of an engine to be a major point of convection or radiative heat transfer. There certainly is SOME heat loss there but a car that cools fine before painting wont start overheating after painting.

THAT being said, my experience with painting wasn't good. The Por-15 just baked, bubbled, and made a mess in my valley. If I had it to do over, I would have just cleaned it and made a point to clean it every few years. I'm sure the stuff DeLorean03 recommended is more suited for the job though.

Jack

02-25-2013, 08:32 PM

This is only half right. Yes the insulation does not add heat but it does reduce the materials rate of heat loss. If there is a constant rate of heating, the rate of cooling must equal or exceed the rate of heating. The relationship between those two rates dictates what temperature the material (or engine in this case) equalizes at. If you decrease the rate of cooling, then that temperature where the rates equalize will be higher. Its the same reason why with a bigger radiator or stronger fans you increase your cooling rate, and your engine maintains a lower temperature.

How is that not what I already said?

Nicholas R

02-25-2013, 11:41 PM

How is that not what I already said?
You said:

Insulation will not increase an engines temperature.

If the rate of cooling decreases and the rate of heating remains constant, the running temperature increases.

vwdmc16

02-26-2013, 12:38 AM

Right, insulation is just the the process of slowing energy, in this case the energy is heat. If its not being dissipated than it remains and builds up until it can find another way out thus making the cooling system work harder.

Jack

02-26-2013, 09:22 AM

You said:

If the rate of cooling decreases and the rate of heating remains constant, the running temperature increases.

So suddenly is everyone not putting coolant in your engine?
An engine is not a closed system so insulation will not increase it's heat.
It's all about retention, ignoring the cooling system to say insulation will increase an engine heat is asinine.

Jack

02-26-2013, 09:54 AM

Nicholas R

02-26-2013, 09:31 PM

So for sake of argument.
Yes if you fully insulate an engine, then remove its coolant system.
Gasp insulation will cause it to reach the failure temp sooner.
But guess what the none insulated engine will reach that same temp also just not at the same time/rate.
That's what I mean by insulation will not increase an engine temp.

You dont have to remove the cooling system for the engine to run at a higher temperature. Do you really think a fully insulated engine (even with the cooling system) wont run at a higher temperature? Don't be ridiculous. The cooling system isn't the only way an engine looses heat. Convection and radiation strictly off of the block are both very important for cooling. Hell air cooled engines rely on it completely. You insulate the engine, the cooling system will still remove the same amount of heat internally through conduction, but significantly less heat will be lost through convection and radiation. The engine will retain significantly more heat and operate at a much higher temperature.

The bottom line is 2 identical engines WITH cooling systems will operate at very different temperatures if one is insulated and one is not, because one (uninsulated) is loosing heat through conduction, convection and radiation, where the other one (insulated) is only loosing heat through conduction.

Jack

02-27-2013, 10:03 AM

You dont have to remove the cooling system for the engine to run at a higher temperature. Do you really think a fully insulated engine (even with the cooling system) wont run at a higher temperature? Don't be ridiculous. The cooling system isn't the only way an engine looses heat. Convection and radiation strictly off of the block are both very important for cooling. Hell air cooled engines rely on it completely. You insulate the engine, the cooling system will still remove the same amount of heat internally through conduction, but significantly less heat will be lost through convection and radiation. The engine will retain significantly more heat and operate at a much higher temperature.

The bottom line is 2 identical engines WITH cooling systems will operate at very different temperatures if one is insulated and one is not, because one (uninsulated) is loosing heat through conduction, convection and radiation, where the other one (insulated) is only loosing heat through conduction.

I still feel your ignoring a certain aspect of the cooling system.
- The fans turn on at a set temp and will not turn off until that set temp is reached again.

Do you really believe that insulation would negate the cooling system?

My over all point is insulation does not create heat.

If you truly believe that insulation negates an open system, I challenge you to run your home heater with all your windows open.

I would agree that insulation would decrease the coolant systems efficiency, but to simple say insulation makes an engine run hotter isn't true.

Like I said before insulation will allow an engine to reach temp faster and active the fans longer. But I don't see a higher temp ever being reached.

Do you see what I mean now?

I think we were comparing 2 different things, running temp vs. overheat temp.

On a side NOTE my POR-15 did the same thing.

I poured the holes solid with silicon and no I'm not seeing a higher "running temp".

Nicholas R

02-27-2013, 03:30 PM

I still feel your ignoring a certain aspect of the cooling system.
- The fans turn on at a set temp and will not turn off until that set temp is reached again.

Do you really believe that insulation would negate the cooling system?

My over all point is insulation does not create heat.

If you truly believe that insulation negates an open system, I challenge you to run your home heater with all your windows open.

I would agree that insulation would decrease the coolant systems efficiency, but to simple say insulation makes an engine run hotter isn't true.

Like I said before insulation will allow an engine to reach temp faster and active the fans longer. But I don't see a higher temp ever being reached.

Do you see what I mean now?

I think we were comparing 2 different things, running temp vs. overheat temp.

On a side NOTE my POR-15 did the same thing.

I poured the holes solid with silicon and no I'm not seeing a higher "running temp".

I agree that I think we are each talking about different scenarios. While typing I was imagining a car in motion where the cooling rate doesn't change ie. on the highway when the cooling rate is highest. I believe you're talking about when the fans cycle on and off, constantly altering the cooling rate ie. at idle or low speed, where the rate cycles between low cooling and high cooling depending on the fans being on (which is of course controlled by the temperature. In that scenario, yes, you are correct, the fans would simply run longer cooling the engine back down, but overall the engine would not run hotter.

I guess my point was that the difference between an insulated engine on the highway vs a non insulated one, is that the insulated one would run hotter, because the cooling system is already at max cooling in both cars and cannot compensate for the insulation. Therefore the temperature would be hotter.

Either way, with regard to this thread, a little paint in the valley is pretty negligible.

Sorry this got dragged out so long, lol. Still friends? Haha, and sorry to get so off topic. Yea... Er...ah VOD painting... It's up to you... different strokes for different folks... Mine just made a mess...

dmc3130

02-27-2013, 07:44 PM

Sooooooooo No paint in the VOD???????:smashfreak:

Jack

02-27-2013, 07:54 PM

I agree that I think we are each talking about different scenarios. While typing I was imagining a car in motion where the cooling rate doesn't change ie. on the highway when the cooling rate is highest. I believe you're talking about when the fans cycle on and off, constantly altering the cooling rate ie. at idle or low speed, where the rate cycles between low cooling and high cooling depending on the fans being on (which is of course controlled by the temperature. In that scenario, yes, you are correct, the fans would simply run longer cooling the engine back down, but overall the engine would not run hotter.

I guess my point was that the difference between an insulated engine on the highway vs a non insulated one, is that the insulated one would run hotter, because the cooling system is already at max cooling in both cars and cannot compensate for the insulation. Therefore the temperature would be hotter.

Either way, with regard to this thread, a little paint in the valley is pretty negligible.

Sorry this got dragged out so long, lol. Still friends? Haha, and sorry to get so off topic. Yea... Er...ah VOD painting... It's up to you... different strokes for different folks... Mine just made a mess...

Yea we can still be friends :)

I wouldn't paint it at all knowing what I know now.

I'll try to remember to show my silicon fill test after 1 year to see if it held up better than paint.

Bitsyncmaster

02-27-2013, 10:50 PM

Yea we can still be friends :)

I wouldn't paint it at all knowing what I know now.

I'll try to remember to show my silicon fill test after 1 year to see if it held up better than paint.

Most silicon rubber will not set up if you go much thicker than a 1/4". The RTV needs 40 to 60 % humidity in the air to set. When it's thicker that seals the air off the uncured rubber.

Jack

02-27-2013, 11:36 PM

Most silicon rubber will not set up if you go much thicker than a 1/4". The RTV needs 40 to 60 % humidity in the air to set. When it's thicker that seals the air off the uncured rubber.

Yeah I knew that might happen. but I'm thinking as long as the top sets solid, does it really matter that the silicon under it isn't set? I was really just filling the void to prevent water or dirt from reaching the bottom.
If it doesn't work ill try the silicon they use for molds it's chemically activated and would set completely.

dmc3130

03-16-2013, 01:17 PM

Well, I've been coming along on my clean up and thought I'd post some pics of my progress. Lots of cleaning and recoating. Should be back and running soon.

jawn101

03-16-2013, 08:30 PM

Well, I've been coming along on my clean up and thought I'd post some pics of my progress. Lots of cleaning and recoating. Should be back and running soon.

Dang, Stephen - looking good!

dmc3130

03-16-2013, 08:32 PM

Dang, Stephen - looking good!

Hey John,

Did a pressure test on the coolant system, it has a slow leak some place. Any tips on finding where?

jawn101

03-16-2013, 08:53 PM

Interesting. Do you see coolant anywhere? :)

Take the manifold back off and look under it, behind the water pump - the most likely place I would think would be the pump back or side hoses.

DeLorean03

03-16-2013, 10:36 PM

Don't forget about the front near the radiator. Sometimes leaks hide up there too.

jawn101

03-16-2013, 11:52 PM

True. How high did you push the pressure? Is there coolant or just air in the system?

dmc3130

03-18-2013, 12:04 AM

True. How high did you push the pressure? Is there coolant or just air in the system?

We got the engine back together after finding one leak @ the heater control valve (just had to snug it up) and having to make a gasket for one of the side hoses coming off of the pump. Actually one of the ones I did NOT take off. Got that done and reassembled. After all of the reassembling was done. We fired it up. First time and good. All was ok until Clint and Charlie left. I was letting it run until the fans came on (which they never did) saw the the temp was getting a little high but no fans. Turned it off and the radiator cap just started to spew coolant. After it cooled down (and a call to Clint) I check the NEW otterstat (from Hervey) that I had installed. Did a bypass to verify if the fans were working and they are.(plus I threw the old one that was working away):dork: Soooooo I need another otterstat....Does anyone know of a cross ref otterstat that I can get locally??????? Anyway if that's all that I need then I will be happy. I'll post pic tomorrow.

jawn101

03-18-2013, 10:26 AM

We got the engine back together after finding one leak @ the heater control valve (just had to snug it up) and having to make a gasket for one of the side hoses coming off of the pump. Actually one of the ones I did NOT take off. Got that done and reassembled. After all of the reassembling was done. We fired it up. First time and good. All was ok until Clint and Charlie left. I was letting it run until the fans came on (which they never did) saw the the temp was getting a little high but no fans. Turned it off and the radiator cap just started to spew coolant. After it cooled down (and a call to Clint) I check the NEW otterstat (from Hervey) that I had installed. Did a bypass to verify if the fans were working and they are.(plus I threw the old one that was working away):dork: Soooooo I need another otterstat....Does anyone know of a cross ref otterstat that I can get locally??????? Anyway if that's all that I need then I will be happy. I'll post pic tomorrow.

Stephen - sorry to hear about the otterstat. I don't know if there's a local xover part for that. You didn't change your pump side hoses? That may be asking for trouble... I thought you got new ones in the kit?

DeLorean03

03-18-2013, 10:34 AM

I need another otterstat....Does anyone know of a cross ref otterstat that I can get locally???????

Thank ramblinmike for this one:

Santech MT0569
On @ 192 Deg F
Off @ 188 Deg F

Comes off of a Volvo 760.

His post is off of this thread here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6426-Otterstat-crossover-interchange

Just let your car warm up and be next to it ready to turn the car off if it gets hot.

Google searched this part #, came up IMMEDIATELY at Autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=262129

dmc3130

03-18-2013, 11:24 AM

Thank ramblinmike for this one:

Santech MT0569
On @ 192 Deg F
Off @ 188 Deg F

Comes off of a Volvo 760.

His post is off of this thread here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6426-Otterstat-crossover-interchange

Just let your car warm up and be next to it ready to turn the car off if it gets hot.

Google searched this part #, came up IMMEDIATELY at Autozone:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=262129

Awesome, Thanks.

And yes I did change the side hoses, but I did not remove the parts that are attached to the block where the hoses go into. Thats where it was leaking. Must have disturbered it at time of dismataling....All good now!! :rock_on:

dmc3130

03-18-2013, 11:50 AM

Awesome, Thanks.

And yes I did change the side hoses, but I did not remove the parts that are attached to the block where the hoses go into. Thats where it was leaking. Must have disturbered it at time of dismataling....All good now!! :rock_on:

Just called AutoZone and they will have in today @ 12:00 noon....SWEEEEEET

DeLorean03

03-18-2013, 08:55 PM

Let us know how it works out! I'm considering snagging one at my local Autozone as a spare (actually, I have an override switch installed on my otterstat, but nonetheless, a spare would be nice!).

dmc3130

03-18-2013, 11:25 PM

Let us know how it works out! I'm considering snagging one at my local Autozone as a spare (actually, I have an override switch installed on my otterstat, but nonetheless, a spare would be nice!).

Installed the cross ref otterstat from AutoZone and all is good fans come on around 195. Now I need an new coolant cap, mine does not seem to seal very well. 1 more stop to the store.

jawn101

03-18-2013, 11:30 PM

Installed the cross ref otterstat from AutoZone and all is good fans come on around 195. Now I need an new coolant cap, mine does not seem to seal very well. 1 more stop to the store.

Cool! Getting there, huh? Is it holding pressure?

DeLorean03

03-19-2013, 01:36 AM

Installed the cross ref otterstat from AutoZone and all is good fans come on around 195. Now I need an new coolant cap, mine does not seem to seal very well. 1 more stop to the store.

VERY nice, man! Thank you for confirming this, and thank you, ramblinmike, for originally giving out this info. Snagging one at my local Autozone later this week.

dmc3130

03-20-2013, 12:28 AM

Cool! Getting there, huh? Is it holding pressure?

Just put in the new cap annnnnnnnnd all good. :Headspin: Fan comes on and everything!!!!! SWEEEEET..... Installed the muffler and heat shield and the Bumper is almost there. Still have to do the latch and lenses. Been letting the engine warm up then cool to cure the VHT paint on the timing cover and Air intake manifold. Should be all back together by this weekend. Work always gets in the way of progress. Will post with new pic when I get a chance.