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ZX-14
11-25-2012, 08:34 PM
First smelled something burning. Then headlights just stoped working. Switched my brights on, then after a few minutes they went out. Park lamps still work.

What's up? Maybe the switch? Anyone had this happen?

DeLorean03
11-25-2012, 09:03 PM
So here's the diagram:


15054

Click on it, and once it loads, click it again - that will allow the image to go into "real size mode" and then click on it one more time to completely expand its size in your browser.

Check fuses 14 & 15 first. ALWAYS start with the simple stuff. Use a continuity check with an audible beep/sound to confirm continuity - or measure resistance across the fuse ends. If you get no resistance = bad fuse.

If it isn't either fuse, check your high and low beam relays - they are the closest two regular relays right next to your fuse box. Reference this picture courtesy of John Hervey - they are also grayed out on the first image provided:

15055


The main page from John will tell you what each fuse is for: http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/relay-compartment-references.html


If it's not the fuses or relays, then it's pretty much your headlight switch. John sells ones similar to the original, or you can purchase DMCH's replacement kit. Toby and John also sell headlight saver kits to keep the switch from building up so much heat. Also, doesn't hurt to install an LED in the switch so when you push the switch on, you don't have a hot incad bulb just roasting away directly under the push-button knob of the switch.

If your parking/front amber lamps in the front bumper still work, I'm willing to bet the switch melted enough to catch in "parking lamps" mode but can't remain in "headlamp" mode. Try pushing and holding your switch in with your fingers. If your headlamps illuminate and then turn off when you release pressure from the switch with your hand and you can visibly see the switch pop back a little bit = melted switch.

ZX-14
11-25-2012, 09:11 PM
Alright- thanks for the diagrams- will do. I definitely smelled something electrical burning before the lights went out.

Sure wish I had some sort of interior lights besides the one between the visors, which doesn't work and have no idea how to access it's bulb...

DeLorean03
11-25-2012, 09:16 PM
To access the dome light, you need a small and thin flat-head screwdriver or a micro-driver ...similar to the ones jewelers use or watch repairmen use.

Just gently and I meant GENTLY pry around the edges and corners of the dome light and it should pup out with a lil (LITTLE) force. Unless you're blessed like me and had it superglued in from the previous owner -______-.

Get yourself an LED flashlight for digging around/working on cars - or even better, a head-mounted LED light. I have 1-2 of both and man are they helpful.

The right tools make ALL the difference in the world when you need them.

15056

15057

Both can be found in the camping goods area of any Target/Walmart/Meijers superstore.

ZX-14
11-25-2012, 09:26 PM
thanks- lol, got my hat brim mounted led's I fish with- seems everything on this car has been changed to stuff from DMCH, elecrical anyway.. Just keep wondering what was burning, smell seemed to come from the dash.

The more I drive it, the more things I find that it needs, or something new pops up. Drove the car every day for the last 2 weeks.

DeLorean03
11-25-2012, 09:34 PM
If you just bought the car, that is kinda what happens. You get it and get to enjoy it a bit, and then "things start getting real" quick. It's ok - it's part of owning the car, and you'll get to a point that you nail all the crazy stuff that pops up. Just give it time and you'll be good - you got Over really close to you - so thankfully, you're not all alone trying to figure stuff out with assistance from DMCTalk.

I'm darn sure it'll be your headlight switch. It's the one point where 12v switches to both your brights and regular lights. I'll bet it melted to where it still engages the parking lights but lets go when trying to keep the headlamps on. Not a crisis - 8 years aog you'd be in a decent pickle, but with replacement switches made now and John (IIRC) selling NOS style headlight switches, you're in a great time to own one of these cars.

Just keep plugging away - we're here for you!

DMC5180
11-25-2012, 10:18 PM
Time for a new switch! Most use the Improved DMCH unit.

WelmoedJ
11-26-2012, 03:23 AM
+1

In cars with the original electric head lamp circuit all power is routed through the switch.
That's a bit too much for the wires.

If you have to replace your light switch, invest in Toby's modification.
The kit consists of a relay and wiring that uses the light switch as should have been: for switching only.

Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1
11-26-2012, 07:48 AM
Headlights were routed through relays from the factory (two relays closest to the circuit breakers).

DMCMW Dave
11-26-2012, 07:52 AM
Headlights were routed through relays from the factory (two relays closest to the circuit breakers).

But the maker lights, dash lights, parking, lights and tail lights are not. Still a pretty significant load on the switch.

Jimmycxc
12-03-2012, 08:02 AM
+1

In cars with the original electric head lamp circuit all power is routed through the switch.
That's a bit too much for the wires.

If you have to replace your light switch, invest in Toby's modification.
The kit consists of a relay and wiring that uses the light switch as should have been: for switching only.

Can you provide the contact for Toby or where you can purchase his modification?

WelmoedJ
12-03-2012, 08:29 AM
Can you provide the contact for Toby or where you can purchase his modification?

This is the one you were asking for:
http://www.delorean-parts.com/

Besides making this change, put LED in your instruments and console panel lights.
Use LED units for your tail lights and you can also use LED units for your directional lights.
Many of us use the LED units from SuperBrightLights.com

If you need a list, just ask.

WelmoedJ
12-03-2012, 08:38 AM
But the maker lights, dash lights, parking, lights and tail lights are not. Still a pretty significant load on the switch.

You're right, Dave.
That's why my car has most of the incandescent bulbs replaced by LED units.
The only ones I haven't yet replaced are the side markers as the LED units almost have no "spread".

Perhaps these pictures give a clue about the LED brightness for the front "blinkers" as my D friend from the other side of the Southern border calls them.
The first picture is an ordinary incandescent bulb, the second one is a Luxeon 3W LED and the last one a 45 SMD LED unit.
The last one has the best wide spread and sufficient forward intensity.
However LED units for our cars will never get the results of LEDs in modern car light units, as our lenses and reflector were not designed for LED use.

15229 15230 15231

Bitsyncmaster
12-03-2012, 06:41 PM
The side lights never spread over the length of the lens even with incandescent. They are not designed that way. The long lens just provides a reflector for other car lights shining on it.

Not saying you could not make them light fully but you will need to do some cutting and use a custom PCB board with SMT LEDs.

Bill Robertson's Sock Puppet #1
12-03-2012, 07:49 PM
I think what Welmoed means is incandescent bulbs in the side markers are also visible from the front and rear, whereas LED's in the side markers are visible profile only.