Valve Adjustement Time

[DunmurryDan]

My engine is making some tapping noises and I would like to check and adjust my valves. This will be my first time doing something like this. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on what to do?

[Dangermouse]

I guess it depends on how bad they are. Many PRVs have a "sewing machine" sound.

Could you post a video and we can let you know if it is normal or not?

[DMCMW Dave]

My engine is making some tapping noises and I would like to check and adjust my valves. This will be my first time doing something like this. Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on what to do?

Follow the procedure in the manual.

[David T]

Typically to be done at 30,000 mile intervals. You should also do a tune-up, replace the O2 sensor and reset the Lambda counter.

[DunmurryDan]

What is a lambada counter and how do I do a tune up?

[ccurzio]

What is a lambada counter and how do I do a tune up?

The lambda counter is a mechanical unit that resides in the driver footwell and hooks between the lower and upper speedometer cables. Its sole purpose is to count 30k miles, and once it reaches that count, it illuminates the LAMBDA light on the dash. Think of it as a sort of mechanical "service engine" light to remind you to do a tune up.

As for the tune up itself, the process is the same as any other car. Replace plugs and wires, distributor cap, and o2 sensor.

[Ron]

Does anyone have any advice or suggestions on what to do?
Sounds like you may not have a Workshop Manual...Let me introduce you to your new best friend in the Resources Section-

Searchable-Workshop-Manual in First Post (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2866-Searchable-Workshop-Technical-Bulletins-and-Volvo-Engine-Manuals)

[David T]

Depending on how long it's been and the condition of the parts, a tune-up of the motor consists of the following:
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Ignition wires
Distributor cap and rotor
Clean injectors
Replace any leaky vacuum hoses or seals
Check timing
Check A/F ratio

Also among the possibilities is an oil change, testing the coolant, and pressure testing for leaks. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed every other year. Check the oil in the transmission. Check the brakes.
David Teitelbaum

[ccurzio]

Depending on how long it's been and the condition of the parts, a tune-up of the motor consists of the following:
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs


These are also good to do. Good call, Dave.

Also, I keep reading "Check A/F Ratio" as "Check AM/FM Radio" and I keep getting mad at you because what the hell does that have to do with a tune-up?

[Ron]

Also, I keep reading "Check A/F Ratio" as "Check AM/FM Radio" and I keep getting mad at you because what the hell does that have to do with a tune-up?Maybe just take the first and last two letters, giving "CO" :deviltail:

[jawn101]

Maybe just take the first and last two letters, giving "CO" :deviltail:

You mean you don't want to check, lubricate or replace the rubber bands in the Craig tape mechanism? :)

[Ron]

You mean you don't want to check, lubricate or replace the rubber bands in the Craig tape mechanism? :)
Well, considering the extra drag and resulting strain on our Ducy powerhouses....

[ccurzio]

You mean you don't want to check, lubricate or replace the rubber bands in the Craig tape mechanism? :)

Absolutely not. That's why I yanked the Craig and gave it to Dermot. Let HIM deal with that radio tune-up nonsense.

In any event, I have yet to have an oil change line up at all close to tune-up time, but if it's time then you might as well tackle that too. That'll be the easy part of the job. :)

I'm dreading my next tune-up because I don't have Sean to pay to do it anymore, and he's GOOD. I'd swear he could do it in his sleep.

[Dangermouse]

Absolutely not. That's why I yanked the Craig and gave it to Dermot. Let HIM deal with that radio tune-up nonsense.



Wait, I thought you agreed to service it for life? Or until it breaks, whichever comes first.....

[DunmurryDan]

Depending on how long it's been and the condition of the parts, a tune-up of the motor consists of the following:
Air filter
Fuel filter
Spark plugs
Ignition wires
Distributor cap and rotor
Clean injectors
Replace any leaky vacuum hoses or seals
Check timing
Check A/F ratio

Also among the possibilities is an oil change, testing the coolant, and pressure testing for leaks. The brake and clutch fluid should be changed every other year. Check the oil in the transmission. Check the brakes.
David Teitelbaum

I can change the spark plugs easily but it looks nearly impossible to get to the distrubutor. I think I am going to pass on changing the distributor cap, rotor, and wires. What is an A/F ratio? Do you have any part numbers for these things that need to be replaced? I was honestly just asking for help on how to do the valve adjustment but it sounds like I need to do a lot more than just adjust the valves.

[jawn101]

The distributor is pretty much only accessible if you remove the intake manifold. Which you should consider doing for maintenance reasons anyway - check the water pump, gaskets, intake o-rings, vacuum hoses, etc.

A/F refers to the air/fuel mixture ratio.

[Dangermouse]

Perhaps tell us a little about your car, has it been running well or has it recently been brought out of hibernation (and if so, how long)?

What is the mileage and when did it last have a tune up?

We can then better advise on probable items needed.

[ccurzio]

Loosening up the intake manifold is going to make it worlds easier to get to the plugs anyway.

[jawn101]

Loosening up the intake manifold is going to make it worlds easier to get to the plugs anyway.

+1. It's a hell of a squeeze to do ANYTHING on cyl #4 if you ask me.

[David T]

Checking the A/F (Air/Fuel) ratio is a good check on all of the work and parts replaced and makes sure the Lambda system is in tune. There are a lot of threads on how to actually do it using a dwell meter. To get to the distributor you can do it by "just" removing the metering unit but if everything is original you should just take the whole top of the motor off and replace ALL of the seals, gaskets, belts, hoses, and water pump. It does make the tune-up VERY easy. Ditto for the clutch slave cylinder. We just took a simple valve adjustment and turned it into an epic restoration project. That is always the danger in working on an old car. It is sometimes called "Project Creep". It is also known as costing a fortune! If the car is very original and this has never been done, it should be. These parts are over 30 years old and were never meant to last this long. Same problem with the radiator.
David Teitelbaum

[DunmurryDan]

Well, I took everything apart and brought what I could into NAPA. They didn't have any matching seals or gaskets but they did have new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, and belts. I adjusted the valves, put everything back together including the manifold/fuel distributor, and now the car won't even start. I really wish I wouldn't have taken all that other stuff off and just messed with the valves instead.

[jawn101]

Well, I took everything apart and brought what I could into NAPA. They didn't have any matching seals or gaskets but they did have new spark plugs, wires, distributor cap/rotor, and belts. I adjusted the valves, put everything back together including the manifold/fuel distributor, and now the car won't even start. I really wish I wouldn't have taken all that other stuff off and just messed with the valves instead.

Be more specific - what happens when you try to start? We've seen it all and can definitely help if you give some more symptoms/details.

[David T]

Among the most common mistakes are mixing up fuel lines (the feed and return to the tank) and not getting the firing order correct because you did not do the wires one-at-a-time. The good news is, it is something you touched so you have to go over all of the things you touched since it last ran. NAPA is not the best place to go for parts for your Delorean. It is always better if you can patronize your favorite Delorean vender. You may have to wait for the parts a day or so but they typically will have everything you need. For the tune-up most of the venders have "kits" where the parts work out to be cheaper than if you bought them individually. In many cases when you figure shipping and local tax it can be cheaper than buying locally. The larger the order the bigger the savings can be.
David Teitelbaum

[DunmurryDan]

Well I finally got the thing to start using some starter fluid but it still runs like crap. In fact, the noise is still there and the car runs worse than ever. Does anyone live near Hammond, Louisiana? I would gladly pay someone to work on this thing with me.

[Dangermouse]

Good news! What a surprise. You are next door to Steve Rice! He's in Baton Rouge.

[Ron]

I was thinking a little closer than that :devil:

[DMC5180]

Well I finally got the thing to start using some starter fluid but it still runs like crap. In fact, the noise is still there and the car runs worse than ever. Does anyone live near Hammond, Louisiana? I would gladly pay someone to work on this thing with me.

Might want to recheck wire positions and for vacuum leaks. Are you sure you have the brass tube properly installed in bottom of the air metering unit?

[Ron]

Something you may want to check WRT the noise is the exhaust gaskets. They can sound exactly like "valve train noise" even to very experienced people! Usually you can carefully feel for them or shoot baby powders around the hard to get at areas (like around the starter area) and watch (usually obvious) while it is running....
Pull your plug wire one at a time (easiest first) listening for one (or more) that doesn't change the engine sound...
Don't leave anything out or be "shy" about asking ANYTHING...