Doors/Torsion bar adjust jig

[leroylem]

My doors both need torsion bar adjustment--have replaced both lifts---sag quite a lot still---have researched the archives, and saw several discussions on adjustment procedures---several mentioned a breaker bar holding "jig"---I cannot open the pictures of this jig holding fixture. I would appreciate pictures/description/procedures for this adjustment---I am in the automobile restoration business, with many years undertaking all types of mechanical repairs/restorations, but my years of experience have not encountered Delorean doors! (Have been a Delorean owner since May, 2011. (2126) I really love the car---drive it often---I resurrected it after sitting in storage for 22 years---15K miles. Thanks for any help provided.

[Doogie]

My doors both need torsion bar adjustment--have replaced both lifts---sag quite a lot still---have researched the archives, and saw several discussions on adjustment procedures---several mentioned a breaker bar holding "jig"---I cannot open the pictures of this jig holding fixture. I would appreciate pictures/description/procedures for this adjustment---I am in the automobile restoration business, with many years undertaking all types of mechanical repairs/restorations, but my years of experience have not encountered Delorean doors! (Have been a Delorean owner since May, 2011. (2126) I really love the car---drive it often---I resurrected it after sitting in storage for 22 years---15K miles. Thanks for any help provided.

15254

We really love it too! This photo may help? It's not super-clear, but, you can see that there is a jig fabricated up to hold the Torsion Bar. The adjuster (in this case Ken) doesn't need to focus on holding that long extension straight, just on making sure it doesn't get away from him! Notice the long pipe he has on his wrench! To the right you have another helper who is unscrewing the 2 bolts that hold the torsion bar to the car. Once that is done, the torsion bar clamp can be removed (here is where the jig comes in VERY handy) and after removing the plate, it can be turned the desired amount and then put back on the torsion bar. Then, another turn of the wrench by the helper in back and then the helper in front threads the bolts and makes them tight.

If all goes well, the door springs back to life! :-)

[Nicholas R]

Who's that cool looking guy in the foreground! :biggrin:

Yea this was a pretty good night. This jig was whipped up in about 20 minutes. Ken has another one that actually uses 4x4's instead of 2x4s but we couldn't find it so another one was made. Just dont underestimate how much force the bar exerts!

[Elvis]

Thousand times repeated - if the door stays open for 2-4 inches without the strut, then DO NOT TOUCH THE TORSION BAR !

[Nicholas R]

If your doors are sagging and the shocks are good, you need to check and see if your metal roof section has pulled away from the fiberglass. That is the reason why we were taking Jason's torsion bars out tonight. Pulled the bars, bolted the roof panel back down, then put the bars back in.

[David T]

Do not try making it with those upright supports made out of 2 X 4's. They can split right down the middle starting in the notch for the extension. On my jig I added a hinge in the middle so it can bend and fit into the Delorean for travel. You should never have anyone stand near the car watching when doing this, if anything does go wrong you do not need to injure spectators. Treat those torsion bars with a LOT of respect. There is an enormous amount of stored energy in there!
You do not require the jig if you remove the rear sunshade.
David Teitelbaum

[opethmike]

I agree with Dave about the sunshades. I recently had to adjust the passenger side torsion bar (over-torqued to compensate for a bad strut at some point in its history), and I did it like so:

Removed sunshade
Used a breaker bar with the appropriately sized hex driver (forget size off of the top of my head)
Removed t-panel so door could be over extended
Removed door strut so door could be over extended

Then I had a friend hold the door open hyper-extended as I had the breaker bar in the torsion bar, and the end of the bar resting on my shoulder. I undid the bolts to the bracket, slid it off and rotated one spline, then put it back on, moved the bar just enough to re-install the bolts. With the door hyper extended, I barely felt any pressure at all from the bar against my shoulder. That said, the bars ALWAYS require the utmost respect for what they can do. It is not a technically involved job, but you have to work methodically, and take the utmost of care.

[Ron]

You do not require the jig if you remove the rear sunshade.

+1

In this case (preferred IMO), I've used a LONG 1/2" extension, 6 point deep-well, and a quality 90° allen wrench with enough length on the short end to allow sliding the retainer plate back.

=======

Not to take away from safety warnings, but it is not like you need Arnold to do the job ;-)

[David T]

It is not very convenient to remove the sunshade, getting it adjusted right can be a pain. The jig is meant to adjust the bars without having to remove the sunshade, just a short-cut. Same with the roof panel. If you use a long 1/2" breaker bar with a 3 foot pipe you do not need a lot of strength but you do need someone with some patience. Part of the "trick" is to set the rig so when you have the assistant hold the bar he is not having to hold it over his head. That can get tiring quickly. Other safety tips include using a 2 X 4 under the open door to the SILL and not the floor. If the car was to move even a little the 2 X 4 will slide out and the door will slam shut. Use a towel over the S/S panels so you don't scratch things and stay away from the rear glass. The edges of the tee panel are VERY sharp where you remove the rear plastic valence. Careful with that piece, it is not easy to replace. I also like to stick a small (2" X 3") piece of rubber between the rear hinge and the torsion bar so they can't rub against each other and scratch the torsion bar. If you have never done this before the best advice is to watch one being done first. Have all of your tools nearby so you don't have to go looking for things while your assistant is left "holding the bag". There was a very good write-up on this in an old Delorean World.
David Teitelbaum

[Nicholas R]

Do not try making it with those upright supports made out of 2 X 4's. They can split right down the middle starting in the notch for the extension. On my jig I added a hinge in the middle so it can bend and fit into the Delorean for travel. You should never have anyone stand near the car watching when doing this, if anything does go wrong you do not need to injure spectators. Treat those torsion bars with a LOT of respect. There is an enormous amount of stored energy in there!
You do not require the jig if you remove the rear sunshade.
David Teitelbaum

I disagree. Just dont use crappy wood. The wood is only there for a small amount of support. You're not digging the bar into the wood. Also, I dont believe a spectator is at any more risk than the person who's job it is to unbolt and rebolt the bar brackets. As long as your spectators understand the risk, then you're fine.

[Patrick C]

I disagree. Just dont use crappy wood. The wood is only there for a small amount of support. You're not digging the bar into the wood. Also, I dont believe a spectator is at any more risk than the person who's job it is to unbolt and rebolt the bar brackets. As long as your spectators understand the risk, then you're fine.

Agreed. The wood is there to keep the bar level...no force is being exerted downward on the wood.

[David T]

We can argue over the strength of the wood, making it stronger is no big deal and is insurance. Maybe double up the 2 X 4's. As for spectators, when I adjust doors I try never to let anyone stand in line with the breaker bar and pipe. Safety doesn't cost anything, accidents do. Especially if someone gets hurt. This procedure is dangerous enough that common sense precautions should be taken. You should also use only good quality tools, not cheap Chinese stuff that could break at the wrong time. You should do the hang test prior to adjusting the torsion bars. You might have a bad set of struts and all you need it to replace them. NEVER adjust the torsion bars to the struts unless you know they are new and good.
David Teitelbaum

[LEVY]

.........On my jig I added a hinge in the middle so it can bend and fit into the Delorean for travel. You should never have anyone stand near the car watching when doing this, if anything does go wrong you do not need to injure spectators. Treat those torsion bars with a LOT of respect. There is an enormous amount of stored energy in there!You do not require the jig if you remove the rear sunshade.
David Teitelbaum

Why you need that "jig" while traveling? Do you adjust your torsion bars just for the fun of it?

There is "some" stored energy when the door is open but no that much, it feels like it but not really, now if the door is closed, that is another story.


.....Other safety tips include using a 2 X 4 under the open door to the SILL and not the floor. If the car was to move even a little the 2 X 4 will slide out and the door will slam shut......... David Teitelbaum

It is better if you have someone holding the door ( 2 x 4 + someone holding is even better).



I disagree. Just dont use crappy wood. The wood is only there for a small amount of support. You're not digging the bar into the wood. Also, I dont believe a spectator is at any more risk than the person who's job it is to unbolt and rebolt the bar brackets. As long as your spectators understand the risk, then you're fine.

To me, the only persons that might be injured in case that something goes wrong, will be the person with the ratchet, the one working with the brackets as Nicholas pointed or the one holding the door if is not paying attention on what he is doing.

Spectators are there just to upload videos to youtube in case something goes wrong.


LEVY

[opethmike]

Why you need that "jig" while traveling? Do you adjust your torsion bars just for the fun of it?

Dave brings the jig to DeLorean events in case there is a need for a torsion bar adjustment.

[leroylem]

My doors both need torsion bar adjustment--have replaced both lifts---sag quite a lot still---have researched the archives, and saw several discussions on adjustment procedures---several mentioned a breaker bar holding "jig"---I cannot open the pictures of this jig holding fixture. I would appreciate pictures/description/procedures for this adjustment---I am in the automobile restoration business, with many years undertaking all types of mechanical repairs/restorations, but my years of experience have not encountered Delorean doors! (Have been a Delorean owner since May, 2011. (2126) I really love the car---drive it often---I resurrected it after sitting in storage for 22 years---15K miles. Thanks for any help provided.

Thanks to all who replied---good info---the jig picture is helpful---will probably perform the procedure in the next few weeks---I am finishing restoration work on a 56 T-Bird at the present---don't have much Delorean time, but did drive it about 50 miles today---about 78 degrees in East Texas today----nice.