Removing ball joints from front hub/knuckle.

[sdg3205]

I've got to remove my hubs from the ball joints on the LCA's, one upper control arm and one tie rod end.

The other tie rod end and upper ball joint were fine. These guys are stuck. I've tried PB blaster for a few days, heat and a hammer (with a block of wood for protection).

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

[DMCMW Dave]

I've got to remove my hubs from the ball joints on the LCA's, one upper control arm and one tie rod end.

The other tie rod end and upper ball joint were fine. These guys are stuck. I've tried PB blaster for a few days, heat and a hammer (with a block of wood for protection).

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Hit the SIDE of the knuckle casting where the joint is with a hammer a few times as hard as you can. Bear down on the joint at the same time (leave the nut on a few turns if you like so it doesn't fly apart). No wood block, hit the metal.

[David T]

The trick to this technique is to hit it as hard and as fast as you can with the biggest hammer you have. When it works it is VERY impressive. The downside is the hammer is a divining tool and is also capable of finding and breaking the most expensive parts nearby.
David Teitelbaum

[DMCMW Dave]

Do people have a moral objection to traditional ball joint forks? They are significantly kinder and gentler than beating on the knuckle with a BFH. And you can rent one at your nearest parts house.

They work fine as long as you are not planning to re-use the rubber boot on the ball joint (i.e. you are replacing the ball joint or boot anyway).

[vwdmc16]

Yeah a fork will destroy the boot, for super tough joints you can tap a fork in to put a good amount of pressure pulling the things apart, then hit the hammer on the knuckle. I found alternating the side you hit can be key to get them apart too.

[cdrusn]

Harbor Freight sells a ball joint removal kit for $50. You simply align the c clamp over the ball joint with the correct size pipe underneath and smoothly screw down on the clamp and it will pop out into the pipe. I wouldn't bang on my control arms with a hammer as fragile as they are. I just pressed out my sl500 ball joints with the kit with no problems. I recommend the ball joints from special T with the stiffner plate. :thumbup:

[Delorean Industries]

Harbor Freight sells a ball joint removal kit for $50. You simply align the c clamp over the ball joint with the correct size pipe underneath and smoothly screw down on the clamp and it will pop out into the pipe. I wouldn't bang on my control arms with a hammer as fragile as they are. I just pressed out my sl500 ball joints with the kit with no problems. I recommend the ball joints from special T with the stiffner plate. :thumbup:

You do not want to use special t auto ball joints. Worse than the failure prone DMC ones that are now superseded.

[DMC5180]

Hit the SIDE of the knuckle casting where the joint is with a hammer a few times as hard as you can. Bear down on the joint at the same time (leave the nut on a few turns if you like so it doesn't fly apart). No wood block, hit the metal.


Using this method works best if you raise the wheel (load the LCA with vehicle weight) it will help the joint to separate. I turn the steering wheel the full opposite direction to the stops of the side I'm working on. Then pull the key out letting the the wheel lock. Next I lift the Hub/brake disc with my floor jack till it starts to lift the body from the jack stand then hit the knuckle with a hammer.
If you don't do this the LCA will be held by the Extended shock absorber. You don't have any significant downward separation pressure on the lower ball joint.

I use a similar technic on the tie rod ends. A small bottle jack works best for this method. I place the jack under the arm next to the joint. Here I only jack it up enough for the arm to be rigidly supported (prevents bounce) Then loosen the nut to be flush (if planning to reuse). A solid blow or two down on the top of the nut/stud should separate it. I did have to use heat on friends car (new rack install) they were really stuck hard.

For separating the upper joint you have to a pickle fork. If you just want to move the knuckle out of the way, pull the upper A-Arm bolt. Or hold the assembly up with tie down strap draped over fender. Hook the top end to the hood lift strut attach point to the underbody.

[cdrusn]

You do not want to use special t auto ball joints. Worse than the failure prone DMC ones that are now superseded.


Which ones do you recommend?:confused:

[Delorean Industries]

Which ones do you recommend?:confused:
Ours or dmchs (which are the same) tried and tested.

[Mark D]

Ball joint discussion here explaining why the Special T ball joints are bad and why the DMC Club UK (Now sold by DMCH and DPI) are the best. The old DMCH ball joints that were failure prone are no longer available and if you order from DMCH you get the new (good) ball joints.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2408-Ball-Joint-Discussion-Revisited&p=32450&viewfull=1#post32450

[BABIS]

and if I remember right the UK ball joints are made by the same company which did the original ones ;)

[Mark D]

That is correct. The dimensions and specs are the same with the exception of the grease reservoir at the bottom of the joint. The new production version has a more robust bottom plate that prevents expansion under high loading.

So in reality the new ball joints are a slight improvement over the originals. :fancy:

[Stainless]

Anyone else have problems ordering the UK ball joints? I ordered and paid for a pair on Dec 22 and haven't received them, neither have I gotten a response from any Admins that I have contacted regarding the matter. Is it just me?

[Mark D]

It took several weeks for mine to arrive when I ordered them from the UK. Add the holidays into the mix and that could have delayed them a bit also.

A few of the DMC UK club members are on this board if you can't get a hold of them over there. Try sending a PM to user ID "A Van" or "arranj"

[Stainless]

Thanks Mark. I'll do that.