Difficulties with DIY project today. Not going well as planned

[Ryan S.]

Coolant tank:
I replaced an original plastic coolant tank this morning and that went pretty well. Liked the sight glass tube. I can see the tank level easily now.

Fixed defrost switch
Took about 30 min. If I knew what I was doing, I could have done it in 30 sec.

Added an engine compartment light switch
For some reason, mine was missing. New switch works very well.

Replaced Struts:
Since all my struts were pretty weak, I decided to order a set from specialty auto. My doors wouldn't open quite all the way up. I often had to pushed door up slightly to prevent my head from hitting the door. I decided to order new "soft lift" door struts that will prevent banging when open the doors. Bonnet and louver worked. They both stayed up. On the other hand, doors are working too well. Now they just flying open and bounced like 3-4 times. It's more like 'hard lift'. I am afraid that something will break. Might need some adjustment to torsion bar but I am definitely not going to do that DIY. I am not sure if anyone in Sacramento, San Francisco area can adjust torsion bars. I may just change them back to the old struts for now.

Fuel accumulator
My car has a hot start issue. I saw the posting on fuel accumulator removal and installation and it seemed pretty easy. Well.. I tried to jack up the car and my race jack bled oils and died on me. So used ramp and raised the car. It took me some time to locate the fuel accumulator but eventually I found it. Wow.... how anyone can work in such a tight spot. There is no way that I can pull it out without lifting the car. I may have to take it to a shop and have them replace it for me.

Fuel leaking?
Since I bought this car, I noticed some strong fuel odors. When I was under the car, it seems like transmission area was covered with fuel or something. Should I worry about this? fire hazard?

Anyways, I am little frustrated and still nervous about owning a D.

[Ryan S.]

Struts are behaving differently once the car came off from the ramp. Now the passenger side door opens perfectly. Truly a soft lift. Driver side still bounces but not as much as before. Bounce hard once and stop. I might switch driver side with passenger side to see if it makes any differences.
Now the bonnet struts don't work. It won't stay open. No difference from the old struts.

[Nicholas R]

For the accumulator you just need the right tools. You need a set of stubby wrenches, a few stubby screw drivers, and a stubby 1/4" drive socket wrench. It's a sucky job but if you've got the tools, it's not too bad. I got all the tools at harbor freight; maybe $15 for everything?

EDIT: Just checked the HF website; now they have a stubby 1/4" drive that flexes, as well as stubby gear wrenches. Man that would have been nice.

[DavidProehl]

Yes, stubby wrenches are key here. I also had a hot start issue right after buying my car and replacing the accumulator fixed it. Also took a lot of cranking to get the accumulator off. Not an easy place to work, but it can be done. Never hurts to spray the connections down with PB Blaster or another loosening agent.

[Ryan S.]

Thanks for your suggestions. I did get stubby tools. But I can barley move my head and arms when I am under the car. This car has a lowered front suspension so it really doesn't give you any rooms to work. Ugggg....

Fuel odor really worries me. I am thinking about taking it to European Auto care in Sacramento next week. I heard that they have worked on Ds before. Hope they can diagnose and fix.

[DMC5180]

Have you ever seen a fuel puddle under the car?

[Rich]

Fuel accumulator
My car has a hot start issue. I saw the posting on fuel accumulator removal and installation and it seemed pretty easy. Well.. I tried to jack up the car and my race jack bled oils and died on me. So used ramp and raised the car. It took me some time to locate the fuel accumulator but eventually I found it. Wow.... how anyone can work in such a tight spot. There is no way that I can pull it out without lifting the car. I may have to take it to a shop and have them replace it for me.

Fuel leaking?
Since I bought this car, I noticed some strong fuel odors. When I was under the car, it seems like transmission area was covered with fuel or something. Should I worry about this? fire hazard?


Welcome to some of the simple problems that normally turn out to be pretty easy to solve with D's.

If we look at these two problems in reverse order you might be lucky to get a two-fer.

Fuel leakage: Bad, not normal, definitely a required fix.
Hot start problem: In many cases it is related to.....a fuel line leak.

First, if you don't have a friendly independent mechanic you like to work with then go find one for now or for later. Some owners can do it all themselves, most can't. Looks as if you are headed the right way on this already per your post this morning. The Bosch fuel injection, including everything back to the tank, isn't rocket science but it helps to have the right gear and some experience when things go wrong. Be aware that these fuel systems can have 40-60PSI fuel pressure in them when they are OFF. Another reason to put a mechanic to work.

Second, with or without your mechanic and their lift you need to sort out that fuel leak. The fuel pump has a backflow check valve. The fuel pressure accumulator is meant to act like an air bladder to store up rest pressure between the pump and the metering box after shutdown for a good restart. A leak between the pump and the fuel distributor/meter will allow not only a potentially dangerous fuel leak when the car is running, but will also let that piping pressure bleed down and create the hot start issue as well as more fuel leakage after shutdown until the pressure's gone. It will act like it has a bad accumulator whether the accumulator is really bad or not.

Since you see at least one leak in the middle of the car get that fixed first. Bad or lose fittings, cracks, poorly-installed accumulator, whatever. Keep working that angle up and down that fuel line until the fuel smell is gone. Really gone. If the hot starts are still bad after that then get a new accumulator. Assuming your pump is OK.

[DavidProehl]

Where is the fuel odor coming from? The front of the car near the tank? The engine? Most of the time fuel odor comes from the front of the car and is a poor seal around the fuel pump. Odor near the engine is a bigger concern.

[Rich]

Fuel odor really worries me. I am thinking about taking it to European Auto care in Sacramento next week. I heard that they have worked on Ds before. Hope they can diagnose and fix.

Good on ya'. That fuel odor should indeed be taken care of.

It won't matter whether these guys worked on D's or not, at least for this problem. If they worked on Mercedes, VW, Porsche, BMW or Volvo cars made between 1973 and 1994 then they will certainly know how to find the root cause of the fuel leak and hot start problems - and fix them easily.

We're talking millions of cars using the same basic fuel system components as found in the DMC-12.

It will help that these guys might at least know what a DeLorean is and that it's nothing to be worried about working on. Have fun making new friends there.

[David T]

Fuel vapors are heavier than air so if you had any leaks you will notice them a lot more when your nose is under the car. Typically the problems begin at the fuel tank. Inspect all of the parts in the fuel tank (both boots, and the hoses).
The moistness you see at the transmission is probably the clutch slave cylinder leaking (I am assuming you have a 5-speed), not a fuel leak.

Don't get too dependent on that sight gauge. Useless once it gets all dirty inside.

Keep switching the struts till you get a good fit. You may need a slight adjustment on the driver's side.

As hard as the accumulator is to do, it is doable. It helps to have the right tools and small hands. Undo the hard line, drop the accumulator out of the hole and undo the other lines. Be VERY careful not to mess up the hard lines. If you bend, kink, or otherwise damage them it requires lifting the body to R & R them.

The more you drive the car the more confidence you will get. Start out with trips under a mile. Then go to trips about 10 miles. Keep increasing your range till you know the car is reliable. Replace the tires if they are over 7 years old, the battery if over 5.
David Teitelbaum

[Ryan S.]

Thanks for very good suggestions.

Fuel smell definitely coming from the bottom side of the engine. Near transmission. No puddle.

To give a brief history, I bought this car last month. I didn't noticed smell until car was in my garage. It didn't pass smog due to injector site leak. Took it back to the previous owner and he fixed it and smoged. One questionable issue is that his brother in law owns the smog shop and he is the one who over hauled the engine and also smoged. Conflict of interest?

Before smoged, I had some difficulty with hot start but eventually got it to start after a few cranks. I did't realized at that time that it was the hot start issue. After smoged, car wouldn't restart until the engine cools down. And fuel smell never went away. Plus, breaks are making some noises. I hope it won't cost me too much. My wife is not very happy with me about this.

[Ryan S.]

Mine is automatic. Tires are fairly new. PO replaced battery already.
I had to drive over 150 miles because the previous owner lives 50 miles away from me. So far freeway driving has been fine but don't feel too confident with fuel smell, hot start, and brake issues.




The moistness you see at the transmission is probably the clutch slave cylinder leaking (I am assuming you have a 5-speed)

The more you drive the car the more confidence you will get. Start out with trips under a mile. Then go to trips about 10 miles. Keep increasing your range till you know the car is reliable. Replace the tires if they are over 7 years old, the battery if over 5.
David Teitelbaum

[DavidProehl]

Thanks for very good suggestions.

Fuel smell definitely coming from the bottom side of the engine. Near transmission. No puddle.

To give a brief history, I bought this car last month. I didn't noticed smell until car was in my garage. It didn't pass smog due to injector site leak. Took it back to the previous owner and he fixed it and smoged. One questionable issue is that his brother in law owns the smog shop and he is the one who over hauled the engine and also smoged. Conflict of interest?

Before smoged, I had some difficulty with hot start but eventually got it to start after a few cranks. I did't realized at that time that it was the hot start issue. After smoged, car wouldn't restart until the engine cools down. And fuel smell never went away. Plus, breaks are making some noises. I hope it won't cost me too much. My wife is not very happy with me about this.

Sorry to hear about the troubles. We were even checking for fuel leaks after the test drive. Didn't smell a thing. Also, during the test drive the brakes seemed fine, no noises. My guess is that this car is just starting to get broken in. The previous owner put on about 2,000 miles in 7 years, and now you are driving it as much in a few days as it probably saw in a year. I saw on your other thread Clint offered to help get things figured out, he works on race cars for a living, so be sure to take him up on it. I'd love to come help as well.

It was a process for me to set expectations with my wife for the DeLorean. I had to keep reminding her it is a 30+ year old car and things are going to break. Owning a DeLorean can be a heart breaking and wallet thinning experience. We now assume I'm going to put about $2,000 a year into it in parts. Last year was the cooling system and clutch hydraulics. This year will be my brake system and who knows what else. There is always something to fix, but that is part of the hobby.

[David T]

If you think the fuel smell is from the rear the first thing to check is the connections to the fuel filter. It could also be a leaky connection from one of the many banjo bolt connections. It MUST be found and fixed as soon as possible because of the high risk of fire. As for the brakes squeaking, if the car has not been driven much you probably have some rust on the rotors. A little sandpaper and you can fix it yourself. For the hard hot restart, do the plug switch and it should start right up till you can replace the accumulator. Check the brake and clutch fluid levels and color.

When I first got my Delorean it was so unreliable my wife wouldn't ride in it for a while till I got it fixed up and convinced her it was now reliable. Everywhere I went I got stuck. The hard hot restart was one of the biggest problems till I found it and fixed it. Back then we didn't have the Internet to help each other. It IS a 30 year old car and it needs a LOT of TLC till it is reliable.
David Teitelbaum

[Ryan S.]

Thanks David(s) for wonderful advices.
Mine is still in the shop, now for over 2 weeks. He installed a fuel accumulator last wednesday but it didn't fix the hot start issue and mechanic cannot find the source of fuel smell. He said, he doesn't see any fuel leak and doesn't smell any fuel. Maybe accumulator fixed fuel odor issue or bc car was just sitting in his shop for 2 weeks? I am still waiting for o-rings to get here. Mechanic didn't replace hoses that came with accumulator stating that original hoses are better than the new ones. I told them they are 30 yo and they need to be replaced. Maybe this will fix?
Initially when I took D to mechanic, he told me that he smelled coolant, which scare $@#¥ out of me but it turns out that my new coolant tank was leaking thought the sight tube. I am waiting for a replacement tube. I hope that will fix that coolant smell.
If car is still not fixed by next week, I am just gonna bring it back home.
Frustrating.

[DavidProehl]

Thanks David(s) for wonderful advices.
Mine is still in the shop, now for over 2 weeks. He installed a fuel accumulator last wednesday but it didn't fix the hot start issue and mechanic cannot find the source of fuel smell. He said, he doesn't see any fuel leak and doesn't smell any fuel. Maybe accumulator fixed fuel odor issue or bc car was just sitting in his shop for 2 weeks? I am still waiting for o-rings to get here. Mechanic didn't replace hoses that came with accumulator stating that original hoses are better than the new ones. I told them they are 30 yo and they need to be replaced. Maybe this will fix?
Initially when I took D to mechanic, he told me that he smelled coolant, which scare $@#¥ out of me but it turns out that my new coolant tank was leaking thought the sight tube. I am waiting for a replacement tube. I hope that will fix that coolant smell.
If car is still not fixed by next week, I am just gonna bring it back home.
Frustrating.

I take it you have Hervey's stainless coolant tank with the sight tube? It is a great idea, but it does introduce another potential point of failure. I was very close to going with that tank myself. Sorry to hear it is leaking.

The o-rings should hopefully address your hot start problem, I haven't heard of a hot start problem that isn't fixed by replacing the accumulator or o-rings, not that it isn't possible. Have you verified that the car holds a vacuum? To do so, remove the airbox, and with the car cold tap on the round plate (http://store.delorean.com/p-6386-mixture-control-unit.aspx) underneath it. You'll notice it drops easily. Now warm up the engine. Turn the car off, and tap lightly on the center plate without pushing it down. You'll note it doesn't go down easily now. Wait 30 min, and try again. Does it still have resistance? Try again after 1 hour. It should hold the pressure for about 2 hours. If not, it is a good indicator of an o-ring or accumulator issue. If it does hold, then something else is likely causing the hot start problem.

[Ryan S.]

David, thanks for another great tip. I will try it as soon as I get my car back. Or I'll let the mechanic know.
thanks

[jawn101]

David, thanks for another great tip. I will try it as soon as I get my car back. Or I'll let the mechanic know.
thanks

Ryan - if you're going to use a mechanic for engine work on the D, make sure you've selected someone who's familiar with the K-Jet (or similar Bosch Jetronic) CIS systems. These should all be troubleshooting steps that they are already well aware of. If they aren't, you might want to look for another shop to help you out. As other members often say, these engines are nothing unusual - variants of them were used in millions of cars through the 70s and 80s and a lot of shops know just how to work on them. But at the same time, a lot of shops don't.

[DMCMW Dave]

But at the same time, a lot of shops don't.

There are apparently a quite a few shops who are not shy about trying, and charging you for trying, even if they have no idea what they are doing. Also make sure they have the manual even if YOU need to supply it. Things that are really obvious to people who work on the car everyday are a complete mystery to someone who takes a car apart and then puts it back together a month (or a year!) later.

We just had a car come in with the frequency valve return hose connected to the pump side of the fuel distributor, all the vacuum hoses connected wrong or not at all, the engine harness routed completely different from normal, the A/C hoses running around the back side of the engine, and a copper fuel injection washer replaced by a piece of paper with a hole in it. Plug wires with no shells so the plugs are exposed (and rusty). And it ran (sort of)! Also sprayed fuel all over the place.

The best advice I can give you if you can't get to a DMC shop, get recommendations from local Volvo/Saab/VW owners. Then look at what else is on the lot, and meet and talk to the techs. I'd say at a typical shop you'd better see a back lot full of 80s euro cars, and the techs (or at least a lead tech) better not be fresh out of mechanic school. By a couple of decades. Even better if his personal car is an old Saab. And they still might screw it up. If they start asking about the OBD connection, run away. Not to say there are not good shops out there, you just need to do your diligence and find the one who isn't scared off by the car and actually has some experience with something similar, and isn't afraid (or ashamed) to need the manual.


We've picked up cars from other shops where they messed up the fuel system to the point of ruining the engine, and were obviously glad to see us haul it away.

[jawn101]

There are apparently a quite a few shops who are not shy about trying, and charging you for trying, even if they have no idea what they are doing. Also make sure they have the manual even if YOU need to supply it. Things that are really obvious to people who work on the car everyday are a complete mystery to someone who takes a car apart and then puts it back together a month (or a year!) later.

We just had a car come in with the frequency valve return hose connected to the pump side of the fuel distributor, all the vacuum hoses connected wrong or not at all, the engine harness routed completely different from normal, the A/C hoses running around the back side of the engine, and a copper fuel injection washer replaced by a piece of paper with a hole in it. Plug wires with no shells so the plugs are exposed (and rusty). And it ran (sort of)! Also sprayed fuel all over the place.

The best advice I can give you if you can't get to a DMC shop, get recommendations from local Volvo/Saab/VW owners. Then look at what else is on the lot, and meet and talk to the techs. I'd say at a typical shop you'd better see a back lot full of 80s euro cars, and the techs (or at least a lead tech) better not be fresh out of mechanic school. By a couple of decades. Even better if his personal car is an old Saab. And they still might screw it up. If they start asking about the OBD connection, run away. Not to say there are not good shops out there, you just need to do your diligence and find the one who isn't scared off by the car and actually has some experience with something similar, and isn't afraid (or ashamed) to need the manual.


We've picked up cars from other shops where they messed up the fuel system to the point of ruining the engine, and were obviously glad to see us haul it away.

Well said, Dave...

Also Ryan, there is a list of local(ish) shops that members of the NCDMC have used with success on the club website (http://ncdmc.org/links.htm). They aren't always convenient or cheap and the list is short, but it isn't exhaustive. Lots of other options exist. And don't forget there's always us locals. Our schedules may be a little harder to get on than a commercial shop but between us we've seen and done it all.

[DavidProehl]

Also make sure they have the manual even if YOU need to supply it. Things that are really obvious to people who work on the car everyday are a complete mystery to someone who takes a car apart and then puts it back together a month (or a year!) later.

You can buy a nice bound workshop manual from DMC here (http://store.delorean.com/p-9201-workshop-manual.aspx).

PDFs of the manual are available here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?102-Workshop-Manual). It is massive, so it is probably costs about same to buy the printed copy from DMC as to print it out yourself if you factor in your time.

[ccurzio]

You can buy a nice bound workshop manual from DMC here (http://store.delorean.com/p-9201-workshop-manual.aspx).

PDFs of the manual are available here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?102-Workshop-Manual). It is massive, so it is probably costs about same to buy the printed copy from DMC as to print it out yourself if you factor in your time.

I created a "DeLorean Technical" iBooks library on my iPad so I have all of those PDF documents immediately with me.

[DMC5180]

There are apparently a quite a few shops who are not shy about trying, and charging you for trying, even if they have no idea what they are doing. Also make sure they have the manual even if YOU need to supply it. Things that are really obvious to people who work on the car everyday are a complete mystery to someone who takes a car apart and then puts it back together a month (or a year!) later.

We just had a car come in with the frequency valve return hose connected to the pump side of the fuel distributor, all the vacuum hoses connected wrong or not at all, the engine harness routed completely different from normal, the A/C hoses running around the back side of the engine, and a copper fuel injection washer replaced by a piece of paper with a hole in it. Plug wires with no shells so the plugs are exposed (and rusty). And it ran (sort of)! Also sprayed fuel all over the place.

The best advice I can give you if you can't get to a DMC shop, get recommendations from local Volvo/Saab/VW owners. Then look at what else is on the lot, and meet and talk to the techs. I'd say at a typical shop you'd better see a back lot full of 80s euro cars, and the techs (or at least a lead tech) better not be fresh out of mechanic school. By a couple of decades. Even better if his personal car is an old Saab. And they still might screw it up. If they start asking about the OBD connection, run away. Not to say there are not good shops out there, you just need to do your diligence and find the one who isn't scared off by the car and actually has some experience with something similar, and isn't afraid (or ashamed) to need the manual.


We've picked up cars from other shops where they messed up the fuel system to the point of ruining the engine, and were obviously glad to see us haul it away.

+1 on the advice and a great learning lesson example. How much time did you have in finding and correcting the Engine compartment issues?

There is a shop in Duluth,MN called Foreign Affairs. They specialize in Anything European (VW,Volvo,SAAB,Jag Etc. OLD & NEW). It's funny too because until last year when VW came to Duluth there were NO European car dealers in the area with a 120K population base. People with newer European cars would have to take them 2.5 hrs south (Twin Cities) to the nearest Dealer for warranty work.

[Ryan S.]

Thanks for all your great tips. I already created a shop manual binder and its in the car. Plus, I added pdf versions into my iPad and PC. I already have called most of the old timer Volvo, Porsche, MB, and etc... shops in town but nobody wants to touch DeLorean. One Volvo shop told me over the phone, "owner doesn't want to go down on that road again". I am currently using the DMC club recommended shop. He has the D shop manual already and have worked on Ds before. But sounds like he is having some difficulty in finding the source of hot start and fuel leak. I was hoping that "professional" would be able to find the cause quickly. It looks like I am going to need Jon, David, and Clint's help on this. You guys are my last hope. :worship:

By the way, I found this through Aussy forum. Owner did find the source of his hat start issue but I don't understand the location of the leak. Where is a hose near the dizzy? http://www.setbb.com/ozdelorean/viewtopic.php?mforum=ozdelorean&t=383&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&mforum=ozdelorean

"Ok, spent so many hours wrecking my brain so I sent it to a Volvo place so that they could do pressure tests and fix the prob. It was losing pressure from a hose near the dizzy, but from underneath. Would have never found it and it was something so simple, but without the right tests hard to spot. Starts everytime the key is turned now, without a worry ."

[Ryan S.]

I just got this info from the previous owner. I am not sure if this information would be useful in diagnosing my current problem.

"According to the mechanic the following was completed: removed cylinder heads and sent to machine shop for pressure test Found leaks in engine valley and cylinders, removed engine and completely disassembled, cleaned all parts, replaced all seals, gaskets, O rings and hoses. Needed to repair leaks, re-installed heads after pressure tested-heads were surfaced. Installed new water pump, thermostat, alternator, coolant, oil and filter Adjusted timing-verified cooling fan working properly and road tested. For fuel leak: replaced #5 and #6 injectors, replaced 4 sealing rings. I have no other documentation."

[jawn101]

By the way, I found this through Aussy forum. Owner did find the source of his hat start issue but I don't understand the location of the leak. Where is a hose near the dizzy? http://www.setbb.com/ozdelorean/viewtopic.php?mforum=ozdelorean&t=383&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&mforum=ozdelorean

"Ok, spent so many hours wrecking my brain so I sent it to a Volvo place so that they could do pressure tests and fix the prob. It was losing pressure from a hose near the dizzy, but from underneath. Would have never found it and it was something so simple, but without the right tests hard to spot. Starts everytime the key is turned now, without a worry ."

Simon (SIMid) is a member here and uses the same handle on both the Aussie forum and here. He may have seen this car in person or have more detail on what exactly was fixed. The fuel hoses that are near the distributor are the fuel pump supply line, the two to the WUR, the one to the CSV, and the three to cylinders 4, 5 and 6.

Edit: Try the rest pressure test which David suggested and see if you're holding pressure. That's useful info to have when troubleshooting. David's right - almost every hot start problem is solved by either an accumulator or new PPR o-rings, or both. If neither fix helps, then there is a pressure leak somewhere else; or one of the fixes was done incorrectly. I've never done the PPR o-ring myself but it is apparently quite easy to nick it accidentally and even the slightest imperfection in the seal will cause problems.

[DavidProehl]

By the way, I found this through Aussy forum. Owner did find the source of his hat start issue but I don't understand the location of the leak. Where is a hose near the dizzy? http://www.setbb.com/ozdelorean/viewtopic.php?mforum=ozdelorean&t=383&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=30&mforum=ozdelorean

"Ok, spent so many hours wrecking my brain so I sent it to a Volvo place so that they could do pressure tests and fix the prob. It was losing pressure from a hose near the dizzy, but from underneath. Would have never found it and it was something so simple, but without the right tests hard to spot. Starts everytime the key is turned now, without a worry ."

He says it was a hose that was losing pressure. If it was a fuel hose, they all attach to the distributor (dizzy), I'm not aware of any fuel hoses "underneath" the distributor. You said your mechanic verified all the fuel hoses are sealed and not leaking right?

"Underneath" might also be referring to the vacuum hoses in the valley (shown on the sticker on your engine cover). I don't know if they maintain pressure when the car is at rest or would relate to this problem. It is an old thread, but you could try posting a reply asking for clarification and see if you get a response.

[DMC5180]

Other than the engine was completely dismantled it should no bearing on fuel smell. What it could mean though, is that all fuel lines were disturbed. Did they install all new copper seals properly torqued to spec. Fuel from a weeping seal will evaporate quickly, you will smell it but not necessarily see it.

[jawn101]

Other than the engine was completely dismantled it should no bearing on fuel smell. What it could mean though, is that all fuel lines were disturbed. Did they install all new copper seals properly torqued to spec. Fuel from a weeping seal will evaporate quickly, you will smell it but not necessarily see it.

Yep, a great point.

And for Ryan's information - be *Extremely* careful when torquing fuel bolts. They are hollow and will snap with only the slightest over-torque, as David P. can attest. Most torque wrenches do not read low enough to properly and safely torque these bolts. It ultimately becomes an exercise in either having or locating a torque wrench that can read 7lb/ft (best bet is a high-precision digital or a ridiculously basic torsion beam style)

[jawn101]

He says it was a hose that was losing pressure. If it was a fuel hose, they all attach to the distributor (dizzy), I'm not aware of any fuel hoses "underneath" the distributor. You said your mechanic verified all the fuel hoses are sealed and not leaking right?

"Underneath" might also be referring to the vacuum hoses in the valley (shown on the sticker on your engine cover). I don't know if they maintain pressure when the car is at rest or would relate to this problem. It is an old thread, but you could try posting a reply asking for clarification and see if you get a response.

Good point here too David. I was thinking ignition distributor, not the fuel distributor. *EVERY* fuel line attaches to the fuel distributor :)

The vacuum lines should hold some pressure at rest if the system is well sealed but I don't think that pressure is necessary or related to starting.

[Ryan S.]

Thanks for the clarification. Dizzy = distributor. Must be Australian thing.
I decided to drive by the shop during my lunch. He told me that he has been busy with other cars and haven't done the pressure test, yet. :banghead: He promised to check it and ready by the end of this week. I told him that we should change the o-ring next but he thinks that its the check valve in fuel pump. I am thinking that would be expensive. :eek1: Hope to get those o-rings from John soon soon. I have been waiting for his o-ring for over a week now. Maybe I should just order it from DMC. Anyone know the part number? All I see is 1" o-rings. I don't think it's that big.

[jmpdmc]

Racerx,

Don't wait for Hervey O-rings. Check out this thread where Bitsyncmaster details O-ring sizes: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?569-Pressure-Regulator-O-Rings&highlight=Viton Good luck.


Jeff

[DavidProehl]

Thanks for the clarification. Dizzy = distributor. Must be Australian thing.
I decided to drive by the shop during my lunch. He told me that he has been busy with other cars and haven't done the pressure test, yet. :banghead: He promised to check it and ready by the end of this week. I told him that we should change the o-ring next but he thinks that its the check valve in fuel pump. I am thinking that would be expensive. :eek1: Hope to get those o-rings from John soon soon. I have been waiting for his o-ring for over a week now. Maybe I should just order it from DMC. Anyone know the part number? All I see is 1" o-rings. I don't think it's that big.

He thinks it might be the fuel pump check valve? Do you have the original fuel pump? According to this KB article (https://support.delorean.com/KB/a61/hot-start-issues.aspx), the check valves were really only an issue with the stock pumps. Fuel pumps aren't expensive ($99), and very easy to install (about an hour). In fact, I have a never used fuel pump I keep as a spare just in case mine goes. It wouldn't be too hard to swap it in to test the theory. It would be surprising to find an original fuel pump in your car, even given the low mileage but I suppose it is possible.

[DavidProehl]

Also, this is the o-ring you want if you order from DMCH: http://store.delorean.com/p-6618-o-ring-fuel-distributor.aspx

[jawn101]

Also, this is the o-ring you want if you order from DMCH: http://store.delorean.com/p-6618-o-ring-fuel-distributor.aspx

David - that's the O-ring that seals the FD to the mixture unit, not the PPR O-ring... I don't think the PPR O-ring is listed on the parts diagrams because it's part of the FD "unit"

[mluder]

There are apparently a quite a few shops who are not shy about trying, and charging you for trying, even if they have no idea what they are doing.

Agreeed... I looked for a while when I was having trouble passing emissions and found a place that specialized in euro cars, etc. The young kid had a volvo track car so he was somewhat familiar. He worked on my car for the better part of an afternoon and could not find the problem but he only charged me for an hour. He said it had become a personal quest at that point.


If they start asking about the OBD connection, run away. Not to say there are not good shops out there, you just need to do your diligence and find the one who isn't scared off by the car and actually has some experience with something similar, and isn't afraid (or ashamed) to need the manual.

Agreed again. In my search I can't tell you how many shops said tehy couldn't do it because either they new the car doesn't have modern diagnostics or in one or two cases teh guy answereing the phone actually said "I don't think we have the right diagnostic plug for that car."

Almost gone is the day when a mechanic actually stuck his or her head under the hood and looked and listened to diagnose / repair an engine. It's almost like a dying language.

Cheers
Steve

[DavidProehl]

David - that's the O-ring that seals the FD to the mixture unit, not the PPR O-ring... I don't think the PPR O-ring is listed on the parts diagrams because it's part of the FD "unit"

Ah! Sorry! Yes, you are right. There was a link from the KB article on the hot start issue to that o-ring, I shouldn't have blindly linked.

[Ryan S.]

Jeff, thanks for the o-ring info. I found it through Amazon and ordered it. Hope it's the right one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RUQEZI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00

David, thanks for the fuel pump info. For some reason, I had $400 price tag for a fuel pump in my head. I wouldn't be surprised if it is the original fuel pump. Based on information I am getting, PO didn't do anything to this car during his 8 years of ownership other than the recent engine work. I don't think he ever replaced transmission and brake fluid either. According to PO, he only drove twice a month to his work. That is about 20 miles per month. Once I get this hot start issue resolved, I think I should replace transmission and brake fluids. Also the brake job.

[AdmiralSenn]

If you do happen to do the accumulator, you can make your life somewhat less painful by removing the coin tray and then the access panel underneath it. I am pretty sure that is the hole the DMC assembly guys used for accumulator access. You *may* have to remove the center console but I think you can get to it without doing so.

I wish I'd known about it before I did mine. Suddenly you can use a wrench on one side and your life gets WAY less annoying.

[jawn101]

Jeff, thanks for the o-ring info. I found it through Amazon and ordered it. Hope it's the right one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RUQEZI/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00


Did you really pay $17 for the O-ring? Ouch :( I'd just give Hervey a call and tell him you need your parts shipped out fast since your car is taking up expensive space in a mechanic's shop. Sometimes he needs a little prodding to get things in the mail.

[Ryan S.]

More like $18.32. Just my luck, when I got home, I found an envelope from John with a couple of o-rings and coolant leak fix kit. I put in a cancelation but might be too late. Oh well... $18 is still the cheapest... I had to spend on D so far.

[Ryan S.]

If you do happen to do the accumulator, you can make your life somewhat less painful by removing the coin tray and then the access panel underneath it. I am pretty sure that is the hole the DMC assembly guys used for accumulator access. You *may* have to remove the center console but I think you can get to it without doing so.

I wish I'd known about it before I did mine. Suddenly you can use a wrench on one side and your life gets WAY less annoying.

Wow!!! I didn't know that was possible. That sounds like a much better way to access accumulator. Fortunately, mine has been replaced already and hope I never have to replace it again.

[Ryan S.]

Other than the engine was completely dismantled it should no bearing on fuel smell. What it could mean though, is that all fuel lines were disturbed. Did they install all new copper seals properly torqued to spec. Fuel from a weeping seal will evaporate quickly, you will smell it but not necessarily see it.

I really don't know. It is really hard to get any information from PO or his brother in law mechanic. Initially, fuel was leaking though injector sites and his brother in law fixed it. That is how it passed smog check. Fuel smell never went away and hot start issue got worsened. Could fuel leak around injector site cause hat start issue? I inspected injector sites but couldn't find any leak.

David, thanks for the warning regarding torque wrench. I don't think mine is that precise so I won't touch it. I'll mention this to mechanic tomorrow when I drop off o-rings.

[Ryan S.]

It was o-ring. Yeahhhhh. Fuel smell was coming from boot as many have suggested. Fuel pump and boot was pretty much disintegrated and need to be replaced. He also noticed that car was running too lean and he adjusted. Order some more parts from John.

Also found several other things to fix. I will try to post some photos and would like to get your suggestions and recommendations.

THANK YOU everyone!!!!

[Bitsyncmaster]

You may want to use one of those O-rings you get from amazon. That is a pack of 25. I hope it's the correct one. Not sure if that 3.8 mm was the ID or OD on the parts I got from Master Carr.

Don't think John's O-rings are Viton.

[DavidProehl]

Glad to hear this is resolved! Also glad to hear it was the o-ring. Hot start problems are very common issues, first problem I had with my car, so this was a good introduction to DeLorean ownership! Welcome to the club!

You mentioned earlier a $400 fuel pump. I think you are talking about the new pump/sender combo unit (http://store.delorean.com/p-10569-fuel-pumpsender-module.aspx)Houston debuted last year. If you have the cash, this sounds like the way to go. It is an all in one unit and you won't have to mess with a fuel baffle, pickup line, or faulty sender. I still run the stock fuel sender and pump setup, but it hasn't been without challenges. I had to modify my fuel pick up line with a spring to keep it from collapsing on me. If you are sticking with the stock setup, replace your fuel pickup line along with the boot and pump.

[Ryan S.]

Thanks David. I am so relieved that it was just o-ring and boot cover issue.

Discovered a few other issues. I would appreciate if group can give me any feedbacks and recommendations on how I should proceed.

1. Fuel boot - it is pretty much gone. Rubber is cracking off. I am afraid that cracked rubbers are going into the fuel tank. Some are already in the tank. Is that going to damage anything? If I am going to replace this, I rather go with DMC's fuel pump sender module. Looks like a good upgrade. Do you think it is ok to drive it with old fuel boot until I get the new pump module?

2. ATF leak - Mechanic showed me some small leaks around transmission pan. I didn't have any leak before. Based on other thread, it could be dip stick o-ring issue?? Should I just wait and see or replace o-rings? Is it easy to replace o-rings with car lifted?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8429155450_3091639df2.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8503/8429156424_751d211262.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8354/8429157484_ab22106c39.jpg

3. Rear Axle CV boots torned - Both sides need to be replaced. I am not sure how easy or difficult to DIY. I think I should get this taken care of right away before it gets too expensive.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8428065417_5434fafb82.jpg

4. Front axel grinding against aluminum panel due to lowered spring- I think this can be fixed easily by just bending panels upward.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8050/8428066909_dec5789f0e.jpg

5. Rear brake pad worn out - I am not sure if I should replace this or not. I plan to rebuilt brake like David but not sure when I will get to it. Perhaps, replacing them now might improve brakes slightly.

6. Front suspension recall not done - I didn't see any metal brackets. How critical is to get this done right away?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8428063769_db5d5f7663.jpg

Luckily frame is in good shape. No rust.
Thank you

[Ryan S.]

You may want to use one of those O-rings you get from amazon. That is a pack of 25. I hope it's the correct one. Not sure if that 3.8 mm was the ID or OD on the parts I got from Master Carr.

Don't think John's O-rings are Viton.

Dave, Thanks for your posting on o-ring sizes and part numbers. According to John's website, it is viton. If his fail, I will have 25 more viton o-rings ready to go. If anyone needs PPR o-ring, let me know.

[DavidProehl]

Thanks David. I am so relieved that it was just o-ring and boot cover issue.

Discovered a few other issues. I would appreciate if group can give me any feedbacks and recommendations on how I should proceed.

1. Fuel boot - it is pretty much gone. Rubber is cracking off. I am afraid that cracked rubbers are going into the fuel tank. Some are already in the tank. Is that going to damage anything? If I am going to replace this, I rather go with DMC's fuel pump sender module. Looks like a good upgrade. Do you think it is ok to drive it with old fuel boot until I get the new pump module?

2. ATF leak - Mechanic showed me some small leaks around transmission pan. I didn't have any leak before. Based on other thread, it could be dip stick o-ring issue?? Should I just wait and see or replace o-rings? Easy replace o-rings with car lifted?

3. Rear Axle CV boots torned - Both sides need to be replaced. I am not sure how easy or difficult to DIY. I think I should get this taken care of right away before it gets too expensive.


4. Front axel grinding against aluminum panel due to lowered spring- I think this can be fixed easily by just bending panels upward.


5. Rear brake pad worn out - I am not sure if I should replace this or not. I plan to rebuilt brake like David but not sure when I will get to it. Perhaps, replacing them now might improve brakes slightly.

6. Front suspension recall not done - I didn't see any metal brackets. How critical is to get this done right away?

Thank you

This is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt:

Fuel boot - if you are getting the combo unit, don't replace this prior. But when you do get the combo unit, ideally you would empty the tank and clean out the inside (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?637-How-to-clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car) to get the rubber bits out. May not be necessary if it isn't too dirty.
ATF leak - not sure about this, I'm guessing this isn't an emergency
CV Boots - haven't done this before, others can chime in.
Aluminum panel (dust shield) - not a big deal at all. Some owners completely remove this shield, I keep mine on. Like you said, just bend it a little.
Brakes - Replacing pads is very easy, so it depends on how soon you want to do a brake system refresh. Pads are probably a 1 hour job from start to finish.
Front suspension recall - This is also very easy to do. It is simply a metal bracket that bolts onto the front of the frame. Doesn't need to be done immediately, especially since your frame is near perfect. Just don't hit potholes too hard without it. The purpose of it is to re-enforce your frame.

[jmpdmc]

2. ATF leaks---Good luck. I have been tolerating/trying to get these fixed for years. Soon DPI will get another crack at it.

3. CV Boots---pretty easy but messy: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1288-How-To-Rebuild-the-CV-Joints



Jeff

[jawn101]

Thanks David. I am so relieved that it was just o-ring and boot cover issue.

Discovered a few other issues. I would appreciate if group can give me any feedbacks and recommendations on how I should proceed.

1. Fuel boot - it is pretty much gone. Rubber is cracking off. I am afraid that cracked rubbers are going into the fuel tank. Some are already in the tank. Is that going to damage anything? If I am going to replace this, I rather go with DMC's fuel pump sender module. Looks like a good upgrade. Do you think it is ok to drive it with old fuel boot until I get the new pump module?

2. ATF leak - Mechanic showed me some small leaks around transmission pan. I didn't have any leak before. Based on other thread, it could be dip stick o-ring issue?? Should I just wait and see or replace o-rings? Is it easy to replace o-rings with car lifted?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8429155450_3091639df2.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8503/8429156424_751d211262.jpg

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8354/8429157484_ab22106c39.jpg

3. Rear Axle CV boots torned - Both sides need to be replaced. I am not sure how easy or difficult to DIY. I think I should get this taken care of right away before it gets too expensive.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8328/8428065417_5434fafb82.jpg

4. Front axel grinding against aluminum panel due to lowered spring- I think this can be fixed easily by just bending panels upward.
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8050/8428066909_dec5789f0e.jpg

5. Rear brake pad worn out - I am not sure if I should replace this or not. I plan to rebuilt brake like David but not sure when I will get to it. Perhaps, replacing them now might improve brakes slightly.

6. Front suspension recall not done - I didn't see any metal brackets. How critical is to get this done right away?
http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8377/8428063769_db5d5f7663.jpg

Luckily frame is in good shape. No rust.
Thank you

1. Pretty big deal. I wouldn't drive the car in this condition personally. If you get rubber into your fuel system it is a Very Big Deal. At the very least you should pull the boot, inspect the pump, inspect and clean the tank, and replace the boot (as in get a new one, unless you plan to do the integrated pump/sender in which case do that instead)

2. I don't really have any experience with the ATs so can't speak to difficulty or severity.

3. Pretty big deal. Given the picture you posted it is very likely that you have water in the joints, which is breaking down the grease and corroding the races and bearings. This is one of those things that is minor if you get it in time, otherwise it's a much bigger deal. The process to rebuild is easy but VERY messy (link in a previous reply) and the rebuild kits are cheap.

4. That's not the axle and it's not the front end :) But yes, you may just need to bend the trailing arm shield a bit to clear. Though my suspension is lowered pretty aggressively in the rear and my shields don't touch at all, so there may be more to this story. More pics would help.

EDIT: I see now that the half-shaft could be what caused that wear and not the link, I was looking at the picture funny. Still the rear end though :)

5. Which rear brake pad? A parking brake or a primary caliper? You have a lot of concerns with your brake system so probably a total overhaul is something you'll want to do for peace of mind anyway. I wouldn't do a single pad as you really do want to do them in pairs (front to rear). Remember, as long as you can stop the car everything else can be fixed later.

6. That crumple extension is very weak steel. You don't really run the risk of damaging it in normal driving, but as David said hitting a pothole hard can cause flexing and warping, the major result of which would probably be cracking epoxy that could lead to rust, etc - if it hasn't already happened. Do the recall for sure.

[DMCMW Dave]

Fuel boot - if you are getting the combo unit, don't replace this prior. But when you do get the combo unit, ideally you would empty the tank and clean out the inside (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?637-How-to-clean-out-fuel-tank-and-flush-fuel-system-BEFORE-you-try-to-start-the-car) to get the rubber bits out. May not be necessary if it isn't too dirty.


It's very cheap insurance to ALWAYS clean out the tank. Drain it as close to dry as you can with the old pump. Wipe out anything left with rags. If there is black goo on the bottom clean it out with acetone. Wipe the whole thing out again. Run your hand on the bottom, it will still feel gritty. Now vacuum it out with your shop vac, and then wipe with damp rags again until the grit is gone. This is what you need to do to have a clean tank, and you'll find that fuel pumps will last a LOT longer if you go to all this trouble. Do not shortcut this step. I have had poeple complain about replacing fuel pumps every couple of years and we always find crap in the tank.

[jawn101]

It's very cheap insurance to ALWAYS clean out the tank. Drain it as close to dry as you can with the old pump. Wipe out anything left with rags. If there is black goo on the bottom clean it out with acetone. Wipe the whole thing out again. Run your hand on the bottom, it will still feel gritty. Now vacuum it out with your shop vac, and then wipe with damp rags again until the grit is gone. This is what you need to do to have a clean tank, and you'll find that fuel pumps will last a LOT longer if you go to all this trouble. Do not shortcut this step. I have had poeple complain about replacing fuel pumps every couple of years and we always find crap in the tank.

Also Ryan, a critical step in becoming a successful DeLorean owner is to always, always, ALWAYS do what this guy says ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :)

And make sure to call him directly whenever you need to buy stuff....

[DavidProehl]

Also Ryan, a critical step in becoming a successful DeLorean owner is to always, always, ALWAYS do what this guy says ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ :)

And make sure to call him directly whenever you need to buy stuff....

+1 on this. I buy 99% of my stuff from Dave, his parts always work and the free advice he's given me is worth twice what I've paid in parts. Anything he says trumps anything I've read elsewhere on the forum.

[Ryan S.]

Jeff, Jon, David, and Dave,
Thank you so much for your great advices and helpful links. I just ordered a fuel pump combo unit from Julee. She was very helpful.
A couple of stupid questions regarding fuel pump/boot
1. Do you think it will be ok to drive it from the shop to my home at current condition? It's about 20 miles drive. Otherwise, I would have to have the mechanic to clean out the fuel tank. Or tow it to my home, which I really don't want to do.
2. How do I drain out fuel tank using my old fuel pump? I was going to buy a cheap pump from auto part store. But if I can use my existing old pump, it would be better.

Thank you again and Yes, I will always listen to Dave.
Ryan

[jawn101]

Jeff, Jon, David, and Dave,
Thank you so much for your great advices and helpful links. I just ordered a fuel pump combo unit from Julee. She was very helpful.
A couple of stupid questions regarding fuel pump/boot
1. Do you think it will be ok to drive it from the shop to my home at current condition? It's about 20 miles drive. Otherwise, I would have to have the mechanic to clean out the fuel tank. Or tow it to my home, which I really don't want to do.
2. How do I drain out fuel tank using my old fuel pump? I was going to buy a cheap pump from auto part store. But if I can use my existing old pump, it would be better.

Thank you again and Yes, I will always listen to Dave.
Ryan

You got the car there, I'd get it home and then park it til you can do the pump upgrade. Just use a siphon to drain the tank into a holding container.

[DavidProehl]

You got the car there, I'd get it home and then park it til you can do the pump upgrade. Just use a siphon to drain the tank into a holding container.

Agreed. You can drive it home no problem. I don't think it is terribly dangerous, but should be dealt with soon.

The method I think Dave was suggesting was to disconnect one fuel pump hose, hook up another that goes into a gas can, and then jumper your RPM relay socket to force the pump to run. Siphoning takes longer, but is much less complicated. When I drained my tank for cleaning I siphoned.

[Dangermouse]

is this a magnetic sheet on your tranny pan?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8429155450_3091639df2.jpg

I wonder if it is just generally preventative or because of a specific reason.

I would also check your transmission cooler piping, that's where mine sprung its first leak. There is a short length of rubber pipe, with metal ends that runs between teh 'box and the coolant pipes that run to the front of the car. If they are wet there, then it will run downhill to the pan like you see here.

Looks like all your rubber components are failing/ have failed, ( due to age/heat etc), so you should plan accordingly. As mentioned above, I would do the fuel boot first and then the CV boots. Plan on doing all 4 of them even if they haven't all failed (yet). Follow the link listed above and it is pretty straight forward.

[jawn101]

is this a magnetic sheet on your tranny pan?

http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8514/8429155450_3091639df2.jpg

I wonder if it is just generally preventative or because of a specific reason.

I would also check your transmission cooler piping, that's where mine sprung its first leak. There is a short length of rubber pipe, with metal ends that runs between teh 'box and the coolant pipes that run to the front of the car. If they are wet there, then it will run downhill to the pan like you see here.

Looks like all your rubber components are failing/ have failed, ( due to age/heat etc), so you should plan accordingly. As mentioned above, I would do the fuel boot first and then the CV boots. Plan on doing all 4 of them even if they haven't all failed (yet). Follow the link listed above and it is pretty straight forward.

Good point that we haven't touched on yet here - all of this rubber has deteriorated and your cooling hoses will be next. You should plan that a cooling system renewal is in your future as well, especially if you have the original water pump or radiator. The water pump will be corroded and the original radiator with its plastic tanks is a disaster waiting to happen. But all the little rubber joints between the hard lines and cooling components are definitely going to be ready for a refresh.

[DavidProehl]

Ryan has a new water pump and related fresh hoses in the engine bay. It is the rubber hose under the car and the radiator that are due for replacement.

Make a list, and start working through the items. This doesn't have to be done today. It took me 3.5 years to replace my weeping fuel pump. 4.5 years to replace my original leaking radiator. 5 years to replace my poor brakes. Don't let all these things overwhelm you. Just tackle one at a time. I've had to do nearly everything you've listed on my car, but I've done it over the course of 5 years. I still think you have a great car, all these issues you've had so far are from 30 year old rubber deteriorating on you (hot start, cv boots, coolant hose, fuel boot).

Of course, you could take Jon's approach and essentially do a complete rebuild of your car in 2 years replacing nearly every part. ;)

[jawn101]

Ryan has a new water pump and related fresh hoses in the engine bay. It is the rubber hose under the car and the radiator that are due for replacement.

Make a list, and start working through the items. This doesn't have to be done today. It took me 3.5 years to replace my weeping fuel pump. 4.5 years to replace my 30 year old radiator. 5 years to replace my poor brakes. Don't let all these things overwhelm you. Just tackle one at a time. I've had to do nearly everything you've listed on my car, but I've done it over the course of 5 years. I still think you have a great car, all these issues you've had so far are from 30 year old rubber deteriorating on you (hot start, cv boots, coolant hose, fuel boot).

Of course, you could take Jon's approach and essentially do a complete rebuild of your car in 2 years replacing nearly every part. ;)

Right; I didn't mean to be the voice of doom :) We need to get together and get some other eyes on this new treasure of yours.

My way is VERY expensive.....

[Ryan S.]

LOL. :tongue:
You guys are all great. :notworthy: David, always appreciate your assuring comments. My wallet and I were getting a bit overwhelmed with ever growing to-dos.

I don't know if you guys have any time in Feb. I must invite you all for BBQ and beers. I am pretty much free on Saturdays, unless my wife has any special duties for me. Please let me know when.

I am just so grateful and happy to be a part of this wonderful club.

[Ryan S.]

is this a magnetic sheet on your tranny pan?


I am not sure. I don't think it is. Thanks for your suggestions. I will definitely check those items and make sure they are not leaking or replace 'em if needed. Thanks!!

[dmc3130]

LOL. :tongue:
You guys are all great. :notworthy: David, always appreciate your assuring comments. My wallet and I were getting a bit overwhelmed with ever growing to-dos.

I don't know if you guys have any time in Feb. I must invite you all for BBQ and beers. I am pretty much free on Saturdays, unless my wife has any special duties for me. Please let me know when.

I am just so grateful and happy to be a part of this wonderful club.



Hey Ryan,

We're trying to do a get together @ my place in El Dorado Hills the Saturday After the Superbowl. Starting the tear down of 3130 to clean the VOD. You are welcome to come and hang (help) plus Beers and Burgers for all (not Clint). We might even R/R the rear trailing arm bolts and put in some new rear brake pads......:screwy:

Stephen

[Ryan S.]

That sounds great. I will be there. Just PM with direction and time.
Thanks!!!

[dmc3130]

That sounds great. I will be there. Just PM with direction and time.
Thanks!!!



No problem......:wave2:

[Ryan S.]

Thanks to Jon and especially Clint, all the major issues have been resolved. No more fuel smell and car is running great. Since I bought my car in December, I have replaced several parts related to fuel system like accumulator, o-ring, fuel pump, filter, and etc... Also have done some major brake works like replacing rotors, pads, and bearings. Yesterday, I replaced fuel lines with SS and today, last remaining task, front end recall kit was installed by Clint. I couldn't have done all these without everyone's helpful advises, photos, and posting here AT DMCTalk. THANK YOU.

[SIMid]

Simon (SIMid) is a member here and uses the same handle on both the Aussie forum and here. He may have seen this car in person or have more detail on what exactly was fixed. The fuel hoses that are near the distributor are the fuel pump supply line, the two to the WUR, the one to the CSV, and the three to cylinders 4, 5 and 6.

Edit: Try the rest pressure test which David suggested and see if you're holding pressure. That's useful info to have when troubleshooting. David's right - almost every hot start problem is solved by either an accumulator or new PPR o-rings, or both. If neither fix helps, then there is a pressure leak somewhere else; or one of the fixes was done incorrectly. I've never done the PPR o-ring myself but it is apparently quite easy to nick it accidentally and even the slightest imperfection in the seal will cause problems.


It wasn't me, but it was MRDMC that had the hotstart issues with his previous Delorean.