Found a D at work

[Timebender]

Just started a new job in the Glendale area yesterday. They had told me there was a Delorean in the parking lot (fenced), knowing my interest in the cars. Kind of got to seeing yesterday but not up close since it was a busy day. Hope to investigate today or tomorrow. The story is it was in some guys garage that's a friend of the owners, and it sat for years, then he didn't have room so he decided to store it at my new job. It's been sitting outdoors for over a year now if not more.

[thirdmanj]

Just started a new job in the Glendale area yesterday. They had told me there was a Delorean in the parking lot (fenced), knowing my interest in the cars. Kind of got to seeing yesterday but not up close since it was a busy day. Hope to investigate today or tomorrow. The story is it was in some guys garage that's a friend of the owners, and it sat for years, then he didn't have room so he decided to store it at my new job. It's been sitting outdoors for over a year now if not more.

:D ......but somehow :(

[Timebender]

Got a little bit better look as my boss was taking me on a tour of the facilities. Didn't get any pics yet. It's a black stripe, looks like gray interior. All I could see was a pretty good dent on the left front quarter panel, and then a T brace like used in construction screwed onto the front facia/bumper...

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Got a little bit better look as my boss was taking me on a tour of the facilities. Didn't get any pics yet. It's a black stripe, looks like gray interior. All I could see was a pretty good dent on the left front quarter panel, and then a T brace like used in construction screwed onto the front facia/bumper...

That t brace I am assuming is a license plate holder, minus the license plate.

[OverlandMan]

All I could see was a pretty good dent on the left front quarter panel...

The left front fender is one of the more expensive parts to purchase. Hopefully its not beyond repair.

[Timebender]

Thanks for the info on the license plate holder. Hadn't even considered that as I'm used to not seeing anything there. I'll hopefully get the time tomorrow or Friday to take a better look.
On another note, saw another Delorean today parked outside a building while I was on the train heading out of Glendale (Ca), towards Union Station this afternoon.

Anyone know who that might be?




Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD

[TTait]

If you saw it today - not mine - but I park mine around there all the time. I work in Glendale, and have 2 D's. If you need help looking the car over with intent to buy I'm happy to try to swing over and take a peek with you, as well as say hi. I am NOT in the market for a 3rd car - don't worry. I've got all the D-love I can handle right now.

Tom

[Timebender]

Thanks for the offer Tom. The car I saw was at a building pretty much next to the FedEx building.
As far as being able to come over that might not work. We're an R&D shop and it's a very tight security place- I can't even take a pic of my office to show my wife and kids. I can though post pics of the D here when I get a chance since it's in a pretty non-descript area.

[Timebender]

Here's the breakdown.
It's vin is 7016. Black stripe, grey interior 5 speed. Hasn't run in more than 2 years, could be longer. Has a 1 inch hole drilled in the left rear quarter panel for an alarm system. Louvers don't close all the way- or click into place.
Driver door doesn't close correctly - pops out 1/8 of an inch at the back and in the same at the front. Needs new door and window seals all around.
Door head liners are sagging, and side A pillar material is pulled away.
There have been two metal toggle switches mounted into the plastic switches in the center console. Carpet looks nice, seats are okay, some wear showing. The car has been sitting in the sun all this time. Couldn't get the trunk hood open (couldn't remember how..). Engine compartment needs new hoses, etc. Not a lot of rust.
The frame from behind the car looks really good - just some rust where what seems to be tie down points. Surface rust at the front on the arms, metal lines.
Dash has one crack, binnacle has a lot. Instrument cluster is very clean.

Forgot to look at mileage (doh!).

So, based on that, what do you think I could/should offer?

[TTait]

You need to know what condition it was in when it was parked.

If it was running, you may be able to do fluids, filters and belts and (including flushing the fuel system and bleeding the brakes) and get it running.

If it was parked because of a bade engine, transmission, or unsafe condition it may take a lot longer and cost a lot more.

I'd guess if it was running and mechanically sound it would be worth about $10k? Obviously less in an unknown mechanical state...

[Timebender]

Yeah, I'm going to ask our shop manager if he can find out from the current owners (2 sisters). It does have a copy of the shop manual plus a bunch of old Delorean World magazines.

Going to check on the mileage today.
Btw, where should the hood release be? I know dumb question...

[Dangermouse]

To the left of the steering wheel, against the outside wall of the footwell. You will probably have to kneel down and get your head in there to see it the first time.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Yeah, I'm going to ask our shop manager if he can find out from the current owners (2 sisters). It does have a copy of the shop manual plus a bunch of old Delorean World magazines.

Going to check on the mileage today.
Btw, where should the hood release be? I know dumb question...

If your asking about the front bonnet then it is to the left of the steering wheel underneath, pull gently. If your asking for the engine compartment then it is behind the drivers seat on the wall of the parcel shelf.

[DMCMW Dave]

Yeah, I'm going to ask our shop manager if he can find out from the current owners (2 sisters). It does have a copy of the shop manual plus a bunch of old Delorean World magazines.

Going to check on the mileage today.
Btw, where should the hood release be? I know dumb question...

If it's a typical barn car, look for a pair of vice grips hanging from a wire at the extreme left under the dash.

15957

The real handle is conveniently out of the way but still in the car.

Engine cover release is behind the driver seat just under the window in the corner. Might need an assistant to lift the cover at the same time you pull the handle.

[Timebender]

Thanks guys. When I was looking around yesterday I didn't see the lever for the front.. Nor a pair of vice grips..
Also the engine cover opened easily by first lifting the louvers and then the cover without having to pull on the handle inside.

[cdrusn]

$10,000 wouldn't be a bargain. If you got it for $8500 with a good engine it would give you some room for additional repairs to the body that you mentioned all ready. Registration might be expensive if it wasn't placed in inop with DMV. Usual items like tires, caliper rebuild, hoses, belts, alternator, battery, etc. etc. etc. adds up fairly quickly, you will have $15,000 in it before you know it. Sounds like a great project and possibly an easy fix you could be driving this summer. Best of luck!:wiggle:

[Timebender]

$10,000 wouldn't be a bargain. If you got it for $8500 with a good engine it would give you some room for additional repairs to the body that you mentioned all ready. Registration might be expensive if it wasn't placed in inop with DMV. Usual items like tires, caliper rebuild, hoses, belts, alternator, battery, etc. etc. etc. adds up fairly quickly, you will have $15,000 in it before you know it. Sounds like a great project and possibly an easy fix you could be driving this summer. Best of luck!:wiggle:

Yeah that's what I kind of figured. I need to find out when it really last ran and then why it was first stored away in the current owner's garage. I know it was bought for a couple sisters, but most likely they got tired of it and wanted something more non-tech girl friendly like a BMW or otherwise (being LA girls). I heard a few years ago they put it up for sale and were asking $20k with it possibly not running.

Hoping to get it for under $5k and just get it running and daily driver, then I can worry about the other things as time/money affords.

[Jeff K]

$10,000 wouldn't be a bargain. If you got it for $8500 with a good engine it would give you some room for additional repairs to the body that you mentioned all ready. Registration might be expensive if it wasn't placed in inop with DMV. Usual items like tires, caliper rebuild, hoses, belts, alternator, battery, etc. etc. etc. adds up fairly quickly, you will have $15,000 in it before you know it. Sounds like a great project and possibly an easy fix you could be driving this summer. Best of luck!:wiggle:

I totally agree. Even if you do almost all the yourself it'll be 15,000 more before you know it. If you want a reliable daily driver you can count on.

[cdrusn]

Yeah that's what I kind of figured. I need to find out when it really last ran and then why it was first stored away in the current owner's garage. I know it was bought for a couple sisters, but most likely they got tired of it and wanted something more non-tech girl friendly like a BMW or otherwise (being LA girls). I heard a few years ago they put it up for sale and were asking $20k with it possibly not running.

Hoping to get it for under $5k and just get it running and daily driver, then I can worry about the other things as time/money affords.

If you can get it even close to $5,000 then you would be THE MAN! The parts alone would be worth that much and much more. Go for it, the most they can say is NO and then you can counter offer. :wave2:

[Timebender]

My thoughts exactly- and there is a slight chance all it needs is a good cleaning, flush, new hoses and belts and a battery - plus go over the brakes. One thing I want to do is replace all the bulbs with LED's, and change out the headlight switch with the newer DMCH version as well as put in a new more reliable fuel pump.

[Timebender]

Here's a handful of photos I took of it's current condition. Year is 1981. Mileage is 27,825. There's a dent on the front left quarter panel, rust under the front, hasn't been run in 6 or more years. The driver door also sticks out in the back about 1/16th or so and in the same at the front.. don't know what could cause it. Thoughts?

15977159901599115992159931599415995159961599715998 15999159891598815978159791598015981159821598315984 15985159861598716000

[sdg3205]

It looks a lot like 3205 did when I found it, sitting since 1997 with 27,500 miles (27k seems to be some weird magic number where people stop driving these cars!).

Just based on the pictures it looks good to me.

[Tillsy]

Is that a Fisher Price alarm? :)

[Dangermouse]

The doors/seals just need adjusting to remove that gap. Can be time time consuming though.

Any idea what that thing is on the left rear fender?

[Timebender]

The doors/seals just need adjusting to remove that gap. Can be time time consuming though.

Any idea what that thing is on the left rear fender?
And that'll cause the door to sit more aligned?

That thing is the on/off switch for the alarm system...





It looks a lot like 3205 did when I found it, sitting since 1997 with 27,500 miles (27k seems to be some weird magic number where people stop driving these cars!).

Just based on the pictures it looks good to me.

So about what did you end up spending to get 3205 back on the road to be reliable -i.e. a daily driver?

[Timebender]

And what in all of your professional opinions should I offer?

[Jonathan]

And that'll cause the door to sit more aligned?

Yes. The door seals can more or less "get in the way" if they are not snugged down exactly where they are supposed to be. You can make sure they are all the way down into the groove around the entire circumference of the door; you can put some silicone grease on them to make them a little more likely to slide into position when the door closes; or you can take them off completely, and then close the door and you will see whether that was indeed what it was that was causing the door to sit slightly open. Might be a striker pin adjustment necessary too, but I would start with the door seals.

I see perhaps something is amiss with your fuel gauge/sender as the needle doesn't often go up as far as where yours is. It's not perfectly upright at 12 o'clock like they often do if they have some sort of wiring issue/continuity problem, so maybe there is something else to yours.

Can you tell us more about what looks like a lighter brown colour on the front frame extension and area? Not sure what to make of that. It looks like you have a decent amount of surface rust in some spots. I would get the car on a lift and do a close inspection of several other areas on the frame before investing too much time or money in the car.

[Dangermouse]

That thing is the on/off switch for the alarm system...
?

I don't think that is what it is. Why would you have the switch on the outside of the car where a thief can get it?

[DMCMW Dave]

Can you tell us more about what looks like a lighter brown colour on the front frame extension and area? .

Undercoating. Not the black stuff (Ziebart) but another brand.

[DMCMW Dave]

I don't think that is what it is. Why would you have the switch on the outside of the car where a thief can get it?

That's how they were installed in the 80s. Typically a round key. I'd have guessed that was a dummy alarm switch but the car has a real vintage motor-driven-siren alarm on it.

The dummy switches were popular too, apparently car thieves were a lot dumber back then and could be fooled into moving along to another car by the threat of an alarm system.

[Timebender]

Yes. The door seals can more or less "get in the way" if they are not snugged down exactly where they are supposed to be. You can make sure they are all the way down into the groove around the entire circumference of the door; you can put some silicone grease on them to make them a little more likely to slide into position when the door closes; or you can take them off completely, and then close the door and you will see whether that was indeed what it was that was causing the door to sit slightly open. Might be a striker pin adjustment necessary too, but I would start with the door seals.

That makes sense.




I see perhaps something is amiss with your fuel gauge/sender as the needle doesn't often go up as far as where yours is. It's not perfectly upright at 12 o'clock like they often do if they have some sort of wiring issue/continuity problem, so maybe there is something else to yours.

Yeah I don't know. There's no batter in it, so could be just some resistance. Since I can't get in the trunk yet (broken cable) I'll have to see if one of our mechanics can help out.



Can you tell us more about what looks like a lighter brown colour on the front frame extension and area? Not sure what to make of that. It looks like you have a decent amount of surface rust in some spots. I would get the car on a lift and do a close inspection of several other areas on the frame before investing too much time or money in the car.

Looks like a lot of surface rust. I don't think we have a lift but I can find out.

And yes, that is the alarm switch- this predates remote alarm systems, and it's a keyed switch (with a round key) - you can see the wires going to the control box inside the engine bay. My 85 Vette had kind of the same thing, but then they drilled through fiberglass....crapy system though. Every time it rained the thing would go off...

[OverlandMan]

Looks like a big project to get it back in presentable condition. Agree with the other members about the frame. Get it on a lift and inspect further. I would also be curious to see if the motor turns over and so forth. Lots of unknowns here. The more you find out, the better idea you can get about the value range and what to offer. Looks like some custom switches installed next to the window switches. Check to see if they bypassed/overridden the otterstat for the cooling fans.

Assuming the motor and tranny function correctly, I'd still budget for a cooling system refresh, fuel system overhaul, some possible electrical work, and a handful of nickle and dime stuff just to get it running. Don't forget to check the brakes and see what kind of work may need done there. Looks like it could use some new tires too. The rest of it appears to be interior and cosmetic stuff, some of which can be quite pricey. Make a list of everything you can identify. Then look-up the prices on vendor website(s). Once you get a total, add another 25% to 45% for unidentified stuff and contingencies. That will get you a rough estimate (less shipping and taxes if applicable) on what it will take to get it where you want.

Better to budget too much than too little. 5482 is on a long-term refresh budget, but the frame, engine and tranny are all good and the car runs and drives quite well.

My 2 cents. Good luck and let us know what else you find out! :popcorn:

[Timebender]

Thanks -all good advice.

Depending on how low the seller would go, it might be a better idea to leave it and get something from DMC California that I know is running well, and I can work on the rest as time/budget allow...

[Timebender]

Talked to the owner. She bought the car back in the 80's from either the 2nd or 3rd owner, where it was in Chicago. The alarm system (with the switch on the outside) was installed by the PO. She doesn't remember what the other two switches are for.
The car ran well and then when she moved back east in 1995, she gave it to her sister, who drove it once in a while, but kept it in storage out in Santa Barbara, CA. She stopped driving it around 6 years ago, and it sat in storage. It then was brought to my work 3 years ago - pictures attached of what it looked like in 2011.
She'll take $10k for it.

I'm thinking I can get something better from Danny at DMC California for a bit more. Keep in mind that it hasn't run in 6 years, and the rust on the front. Also, she mentioned she scraped the bottom one time, which damaged the fiberglass (and was repaired).


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[OverlandMan]

She'll take $10k for it.


I'm sure she would for a non running/driving car. With all the unknowns that seems too high. If the motor turns over but doesn't run and the tranny & clutch aren't shot, I'd say something in the $6k range might be fair for both parties. But if there's more frame rust than meets the eye, the motor's seized, or any other major issues, the price would be significantly less. Keep in mind a replacement motor from DMCH will run you $10k. A tranny $4-5k. Those are the big-ticket items.

If you're wanting immediate satisfaction then a pre-owned DMC car may be a better option. If you want a long-term project that will need plenty of blood, sweat, tears, and above all else - cash, then something like this may prove to be rewarding if done right.

Whats up with the binnacle in the 2nd pic you posted? Was it taken prior to the previous binnacle pic. The first one showed it all cracked but in the 2nd pic it looked undamaged.

[Dangermouse]

The last set of pics are from 2011 and there are a couple of small cracks under the suns glare

A year or two in the sun has destroyed it completely

[Silverbullet]

I'm sure she would for a non running/driving car. With all the unknowns that seems too high. If the motor turns over but doesn't run and the tranny & clutch aren't shot, I'd say something in the $6k range might be fair for both parties. But if there's more frame rust than meets the eye, the motor's seized, or any other major issues, the price would be significantly less. Keep in mind a replacement motor from DMCH will run you $10k. A tranny $4-5k. Those are the big-ticket items.

If you're wanting immediate satisfaction then a pre-owned DMC car may be a better option. If you want a long-term project that will need plenty of blood, sweat, tears, and above all else - cash, then something like this may prove to be rewarding if done right.

Whats up with the binnacle in the 2nd pic you posted? Was it taken prior to the previous binnacle pic. The first one showed it all cracked but in the 2nd pic it looked undamaged.

Ah.... as posted... the new pics were from 2011.... SAME miles... so it is a shame it was parked in the sun.... $10,000 is not WAY off... but if you can go lower better... The more info you have on the engine, trans, and frame... makes it easier to value... It would be great to see it back on the road...

Craig

[Timebender]

Whats up with the binnacle in the 2nd pic you posted? Was it taken prior to the previous binnacle pic. The first one showed it all cracked but in the 2nd pic it looked undamaged.

These are from 2011, before all the damage from sitting outside.. the pics I first posted were shot a couple days ago.

Here's the dash/binnacle now.

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[OverlandMan]

These are from 2011, before all the damage from sitting outside.. the pics I first posted were shot a couple days ago.

Here's the dash/binnacle now.

16021

Gotcha

[David T]

Here is how to buy it for $9K. Make the offer. Tell the owner it is good under 3 conditions.
1) you get to inspect the frame
2) at your expense you get the motor to run and drive it to determine if there is anything major wrong with the motor, clutch, and transmission
3) the Title is "clean"
If you can get it to move under it's own power and the frame is not bad, $9K is not too much. Just be prepared to spend a LOT of time and money fixing it up.
Don't forget to ask what else is included. Sometimes you can get surprised by what they will include and there could be stuff worth a lot of money. If the owner balks at your offer, you just have to say you will be spending your time and money on the car wither you buy it or not. If you are not handy doing your own work pass on this car. You can find a runner for around $15K. It won't be pretty but it will be drivable.
David Teitelbaum

[Timebender]

I'm thinking maybe even less. I'll find out if the engine will even turn this week if I have time - big deadline coming up so it may have to wait a week. If it does then that's good.

I'm not afraid of working on the car - I had a 63 23 window VW bus I restored, built a new engine, etc, and currently working on my son's 1970 1/2 RS Camaro.

Or I see what Danny has that's reliably running that needs some TLC.

[David T]

We can argue over exactly how much to offer but you get the idea. You are the best judge of that because you are there and can "read" the owner's intentions and can better see the condition of the car. I would have some kind of agreement about this in writing because once you get it running the price may go up! Remember that sometimes it is also better to walk away from a bad deal then to actually take it. What I mean by that is if the frame is really bad but you can get it running it isn't worth $9K. If you are handy you should not be afraid of working on the car but even if you know what you are doing you still have to buy parts and that will take a lot of money. If you can buy it for, let's say $8K and have to spend $10K in parts, you could have bought one in much better condition and would need to spend less on it in time and money. Buying a project, you should be able to buy it at a price reduced enough so as to cover all of the parts and labor and time you have to invest. Unless buying a project is what you want, my advice is to always buy the best car you can afford. In the long run it is faster and cheaper than a project. On the other hand the venders LOVE those of us that take on these projects!!!!!!!!! Make sure you have a high enough limit on your credit cards!
David Teitelbaum

[refugeefromcalif]

venders LOVE those of us that take on these projects!!!!!!!!! Make sure you have a high enough limit on your credit cards!
David Teitelbaum

Why a Credit card? What's wrong with paying cash? :confused:

George

[David T]

It's not a good idea to send cash through the mail. You can pay by check!
David Teitelbaum

[Dangermouse]

I think David means using the CC for vendor purchases rather than the initial purchase

[Timebender]

We can argue over exactly how much to offer but you get the idea. You are the best judge of that because you are there and can "read" the owner's intentions and can better see the condition of the car. I would have some kind of agreement about this in writing because once you get it running the price may go up! Remember that sometimes it is also better to walk away from a bad deal then to actually take it. What I mean by that is if the frame is really bad but you can get it running it isn't worth $9K. If you are handy you should not be afraid of working on the car but even if you know what you are doing you still have to buy parts and that will take a lot of money. If you can buy it for, let's say $8K and have to spend $10K in parts, you could have bought one in much better condition and would need to spend less on it in time and money. Buying a project, you should be able to buy it at a price reduced enough so as to cover all of the parts and labor and time you have to invest. Unless buying a project is what you want, my advice is to always buy the best car you can afford. In the long run it is faster and cheaper than a project. On the other hand the venders LOVE those of us that take on these projects!!!!!!!!! Make sure you have a high enough limit on your credit cards!
David Teitelbaum

Excellent advice and wisdom. As cool as it would be to get this for "cheap", I'd be better off getting something for a bit more that runs well and is physically good, but I can work on as far as interior and so on.

[Timebender]

After talking with Danny, looking at parts prices, and so on, this is going to be a very expensive endeavor - roughly $25k to get it road worthy (lots of mildew and rust inside due to the open window over so many years).
Sad. If she was willing to go real low I'd consider it just to have it and work on it over the years.

Moving on.

[Jonathan]

...Moving on.

Hey, no shame in that. From what was written in this thread, I think there is more than enough justification to pass this one up. Circumstances could be different for the next guy and that's okay too. I think patience in its many forms is arguably one of the more important attributes you can have to help you lead a happy DeLorean life :)

[Timebender]

Yep.

[Timebender]

Okay so I want to move on but it's sitting out there taunting me every day, and there might be a chance the current owner will go to a reasonable price. I checked the engine- the white screen in the oil filler is in good shape, and the oil looks like it only has about 1000 miles on it - slight gas smell, not black but darker brown, and it's at the first mark up the stick. The frame actually looks great, but I know it's going to need some minor trans work (clutch cylinder and slave) need to be replaced at a minimum, which was in my other post about the clutch not moving at all.

Going to try to get the engine to turn over but I know I need to take out the #7 fuse - which one is that in the block?

[jawn101]

Okay so I want to move on but it's sitting out there taunting me every day, and there might be a chance the current owner will go to a reasonable price. I checked the engine- the white screen in the oil filler is in good shape, and the oil looks like it only has about 1000 miles on it - slight gas smell, not black but darker brown, and it's at the first mark up the stick. The frame actually looks great, but I know it's going to need some minor trans work (clutch cylinder and slave) need to be replaced at a minimum, which was in my other post about the clutch not moving at all.

Going to try to get the engine to turn over but I know I need to take out the #7 fuse - which one is that in the block?

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2559&d=1310439243

[Timebender]

Handy that is! Thanks Jawn. :yoda:

[Timebender]

Good news- the engine turns over. :nana1:
So now I need to work on the offer - they want $9 but I'm trying to go to $8..

[Dangermouse]

Nine bucks?!!!!

Oh, you mean 9k......:)

There is a thread in the Cars For Sale subforum about what to pay for cars in various conditions. I think it is a sticky called "project / cheap cars" or something like that. If you haven't read it, you might want to, and then match up the correct description with the car in front of you.

[Ryan King]

Good news- the engine turns over. :nana1:
So now I need to work on the offer - they want $9 but I'm trying to go to $8..

I'd jump in it at 9k. It seems to me like its a strong, good, well put together DeLorean. I think 9k is a steal for whats there.

[Timebender]

Thanks guys- and I'll check that area of the forum.

[Timebender]

Can't find the thread you mentioned- have a link?

[jawn101]

Can't find the thread you mentioned- have a link?

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?371-Please-read-before-posting-%93I-want-a-cheap-DeLorean%94-or-%93Project-Car-Wanted%94-threads

[dmcerik]

You say the car is in Glendale? I'm visiting my daughter right now in Sherman Oaks. I'll be out here until April 9. If you want another set of eyes to look at the car drop me a line. I've owned my Delorean since 1999, went through the restoration myself and have had a half dozen or so parts cars. I may be able to help you in some way. If you're interested let me know.

616-723-4058

[Timebender]

Thanks Jawn for the link- wasn't sure if that was it.

Eric, thanks for the offer to be a 2nd set of eyes. I really appreciate it but due to the nature of the business I work for, no one is allowed in certain areas unless they're an employee or family member and have signed a lengthy NDA- lots of very confidential secret stuff goes on behind our gates. Wish I could do more than the pictures they let me post at the beginning of this thread.
Danny Botkin knows the car though since he knows the current owner and did all the maintenance before it was put in storage.

[TTait]

Well, I too am only a few minutes away... If you make the deal make sure to let us know and we'll meet you at the curb when the flatbed pulls her out.

If you're Disney by the way, So am I, so the NDA is not an issue.

Tom

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Is this what goes on...oh boy, I knew it.

[Timebender]

Well, I too am only a few minutes away... If you make the deal make sure to let us know and we'll meet you at the curb when the flatbed pulls her out.

If you're Disney by the way, So am I, so the NDA is not an issue.

Tom

Actually I'm at Applied Minds (all ex-Disney Imagineers) right across the street (or down the street on Grand Central) depending on what building you're in..

We should do lunch though sometime.

[Dangermouse]

Sssooooo, a year, 8 miles and a bottle of armor-all later, 7016 is now in Atlanta, cleaned up and ready for that new owner...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/DeLorean-Gullwing-Coupe-/181389371346?forcerrptr=true&hash=item2a3ba627d2&item=181389371346&pt=US_Cars_Trucks&sspagename=RSS:B:SHOP:US:101#ht_272wt_1017

[Dangermouse]

I may be wrong on part of that. It has driven 8 miles based on the ad saying the mileage is 27832, but the photo in the ad says 27823, so I suspect the digits were just transposed. So, 0 miles then as that is what Timebender showed us back in January 2013

So if it does indeed "run and drive great" then it needs the odometer/angle drive fixed :) (so what's new)

[Michael]

I may be wrong on part of that. It has driven 8 miles based on the ad saying the mileage is 27832, but the photo in the ad says 27823, so I suspect the digits were just transposed. So, 0 miles then as that is what Timebender showed us back in January 2013

So if it does indeed "run and drive great" then it needs the odometer/angle drive fixed :) (so what's new)

There is always the possibility the seller is stretching the truth. I know its hard to believe especially considering this is an ebay auction...but anything is possible. Also keep in mind the definition of "runs great" varies from seller to buyer.