Universal joint is really stuck

[mowpow]

I had to replace my tie rod ends so I took the rack out and placed it back in. Now I'm trying to connect the steering shaft universal joint back into the rack but man it is really stuck. I removed the two bolts on each end of the universal joint and been hitting it with PB blaster and a hammer/brass rod. I can't not seem to get the universal joint to slide up the shaft. Any tips on how to get it to slide up so I can connect it to the rack? Time for more advil heh.

Thanks,
Jake

[DMCMW Dave]

You need to use a blunt screwdriver or chisel to spread the clamp open a bit. More PB Blaster. Best if you can get it all the way apart so you can clean the splines and put on some antisiexe compound at the same time.

[mowpow]

Thanks Dave. I got the chisel in there last night and hit it with PB Blaster before I gave up for the night (didn't figure the neighbors would appreciate the hammer at 9:30PM :). I'll get a bigger chisel today and work on it some more. Good idea about cleaning up the splines I will do that too, it should make the assembly that much easier and help when I need to do the bushing at some point.

Thanks again,
Jake

[DMC5180]

I'm not sure which part of the spline shaft assembly you are working with. But some spline/joint connections are indexed to install the pinch bolt. I don't recall if that's the case with the steering rack pinion shaft connection.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm not sure which part of the spline shaft assembly you are working with. But some spline/joint connections are indexed to install the pinch bolt. I don't recall if that's the case with the steering rack pinion shaft connection.

The lower joint is indexed to the rack. The center slip joint is also indexed. The connection to the steering column at the firewall (do you still call it that when there is no fire?) is not indexed so the wheel can be aligned. All three are "captured" in a groove such that the bolt must be completely out of the fitting for it to come apart.

[DMC5180]

The lower joint is indexed to the rack. The center slip joint is also indexed. The connection to the steering column at the firewall (do you still call it that when there is no fire?) is not indexed so the wheel can be aligned. All three are "captured" in a groove such that the bolt must be completely out of the fitting for it to come apart.

I knew 2 of the 3 spline connections were indexed. Just forgot which end wasn't. I call it a front bulkhead? I get what your referring too though. The Funny thing is I refer to the back wall as the Rear Bulkhead even though It would technically be the firewall.

[andyd]

The lower joint is indexed to the rack. The center slip joint is also indexed.

Hi, does this mean that the two UJ's can't be assembled out of plane? I have in the past replaced the lower UJ when I had the rack out, but cannot remember aligning them...

Reassure me?!

thanks,

andy

[DMC5180]

Hi, does this mean that the two UJ's can't be assembled out of plane? I have in the past replaced the lower UJ when I had the rack out, but cannot remember aligning them...

Reassure me?!

thanks,

andy


Correct. Upper and Lower are indexed together.

[DMCMW Dave]

Correct. Upper and Lower are indexed together.

If you try to assemble them out of line the pinch bolt will not go through the hole.

[andyd]

Thanks guys.

As a slight aside, and maybe of use to someone doing this, my lower UJ needed a bit of adjusting on the splines, otherwise the pinch bolt (or nut?) fouled the frame at one point of rotation. I just moved the lower UJ "up" the splines a little. Not rocket science, but it had clearly been doing it for a while given the witness mark on the frame, and was a simple explaination to a perceived tight spot at certain points of steering wheel roatation!

cheers

a

[David T]

The splines can also get pretty rusty and that makes it harder to reassemble too. Wire brush or file lightly to clean it all up. Make sure you are going on straight too. if you are cocked off-angle you will just butcher it all up. The bolt should not hit the frame. Try reversing the bolt or maybe someone used one that is to long. While you are in that area check the front bulkhead steering column bushing, if it is bad this is the time to replace it. Also make sure the A/C hose is SECURELY fastened to the frame so the U-Joint CANNOT touch it. I have seen that hose get destroyed by getting hit by that joint. Test fit each end of the steering shaft and make sure the center splines slide easily out of the car before trying to do it in the car. You will have to tap it with a hammer but you should not have to hit it hard or force it.
David Teitelbaum

[SS Spoiler]

Check out post #22 on "DCUK ss shaft / joint set

[jawn101]

My lower U-joint was completely seized as well. Well, not 100% since I could still turn the wheel and maneuver the car (with great difficulty); but when I got the shaft out I was totally unable to move the joint by hand. Replacing that shaft (I had done the rack a year before) was the single most marked improvement in the car's handling I've made. A very close second was replacing the blowtorched front springs.

That said, are you sure your existing shaft is salvageable? There are a lot of great replacement options available and it might just be worth putting a new one in now that the old one is out :)

[mowpow]

I got the U-joint loose and was able to assemble it back. It's in pretty bad shape so I did order a new SS one. One thing I did hose up in the process was the bolt connecting the U-joint to the steering rack. I figured the bolt wouldn't go because I had to spread apart the clamp but I ended up damaging the bolt. I don't think I have it aligned perfect which is what caused it to stick. Will fix that and secure the A/C hose back, thanks for that tip that would have sucked if that got damaged! I also need to do the bushing as it fell out in 10 pieces while hammering on the U-joint lol. Will do that when the SS u-joint comes in.