5725 in new home, now the questions start.

[THVGJP]

Hello,
I just got 5725 delivered last week, before I bought it I took it for the test run etc, gas gauge read 1/4 tank left. Had it delivered, tank still read 1/4. Being peeved the dealer didnt fill it up before delivery I drovwe 10 miles to the gas station. Car sputtered and ran somewhat ok, occasional sputter, lack of get up, etc. Now gauge read very near zero, knowing the problems in the reliability of the gauge I swaeted it till I got to the station and filled it up with 93 octane. After fill up gauge read 1/2 full for about 5 miles then read full after that, car ran much better, no hesitation or sputter. Now my prediciment is this, I want to replace the pump with the new improved pump with intergtared sender. I have also read unfortunately after filling up I should do a tank cleaning and inspection, my question is I really dont want to waste 45.00 in high test gas, can I burn it off by driving or siphon it off and take the loss? I also plan on replacing the fuel filter I am afraid to drive it due to fuel tank contamination and messing stuff up downstream. Thanks for the great resource here, it is wonderful to have a bunch of guys who know delos at our fingertips. I would be screwed without this resource.
Glen

[Michael]

I don't see why you can't run that tank down before starting the work...unless you know there is a lot of gunk in there or the car has been sitting just prior to you driving it, I wouldn't sweat it. You may very well have a hole or crack in your pickup line that is covered up until the tank gets low exposing the opening to air. If you are concerned, you can pull the pump and have a look with a LED light. The bottom of the tank should be very visible even with a full load of gas.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

If the car has been sitting I would get rid of the gas by removing it. It's not such a hard thing to do. If when you do remove the gas and you find it has been contaminated by old gas, I think wasting 45 bucks will be cheaper than screwing up other things.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Get a couple 5 gal gas cans and drain it. You can always use the gas in your other cars or lawn mower. Or if you find the tank clean just put it back.

[ILM1010]

Glen welcome to the cult! You are going to love your car. Get that gas out of there, you don't want bigger repairs like rebuilding the whole fuel system. Anyway, welcome...here's your robe and the tainted kool aid is over there

[ccurzio]

Get a couple 5 gal gas cans and drain it. You can always use the gas in your other cars or lawn mower. Or if you find the tank clean just put it back.

This is the best advice, and it's what I did when I replaced my fuel pump. Just filter it when you take it out and filter it again when you put it back in the tank.

I didn't replace the old gas though. I filled it with fresh gas and used the old stuff for other things.

[THVGJP]

Thanks for all the advice, like I said its great to have a group of experts at your fingertips. Sounds like Im gonna siphon out the gas and inspect/clean tank, replace fuel pump. You all are right 45.00 is cheap insurance against future fuel issues. Part of the fun of owning a new pre-owned car is finding out its history and past repairs of issues. I have never owned or bought a 30+ year old classic, so its different for me. Some of the things I have found are somehow the Stabilus door struts were installed upside down on both doors, almost like they used the same side on both doors. I have a leak in the luggare compartment, found numerous broken studs off inspection covers near where the H2O was coming in, plan on fixing this. Also found various acorns and nuts plus a mummified mouse in the jack compartment. So it looks like it must have been stored for a while. Wonder what else I will find once the weather gets nicer and I can really tear into it. Seriously the car is good inside and out and was I believe well cared for it shows 15k on the clock and looks it. I will post pics later. Again thanks for being there for all of us Deloran owners, we would be lost without eachothers help and advice, I am a perfectionist when it comes to working on a car, I want it done right and know totally what I am doing before I atempt anything so in the future I am going to have lots of questions.
Glen

[DMCMW Dave]

You all are right 45.00 is cheap insurance

Cheaper than one fuel injector. . . .

[Jonathan]

Hey Glen,

Congrats on getting your car!!

A couple thoughts when I read your post:

- How much per gallon is your gas where you are? The reason I ask is because I am curious how many gallons you put in the car. The Owners Manual says the tank is 51 litres or 13 gallons. From my experience with what my fuel gauge does, I have a more useable volume of about 40 litres, or perhaps 10-11 gallons. When you described your fuel gauge stuck on 1/4 for a while, then going to 1/2, and finally full, I just thought perhaps while you saw the gauge at 1/4, maybe the whole time you were just about ready to run out of gas? Did the idiot/warning light on the instrument cluster come on at any time telling you the tank was low? That light tends to be more accurate about running low on gas, assuming yours works.

- Like others said, $45 of gas if you stood to lose it is cheap compared to the costs of what goes into these cars. You can add about three zeroes to that to get to what some of us have invested in our cars.

- Everyone can put in whatever type of gas you'd like, but I put in 87 octane. There has been some discussion on what the manual meant in terms of octanes we see in North America. Just wanted to point out that you don't have to put 93 in the car as some people feel it actually does more harm than good for an engine designed to run 87. Plus it costs you more.

EDIT: Just rereading Glen's post, I agree it would be wise to ensure the tank is clean. I had thought he might have been attributing the poor performance, sputtering, etc. to assuming it was dirty, versus perhaps just plain old running out of gas.

[Tillsy]

Get a couple 5 gal gas cans and drain it. You can always use the gas in your other cars or lawn mower. Or if you find the tank clean just put it back.

Fully agree - I siphoned the fuel that was initially in my D, filtered the gunk from it, and re-used in my lawn mower.

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Hey if you found a mouse then the car was a a stainless steel condo, first thing you should check is the fuse compartment behind the passenger seat on the parcel shelf. I am sure they enjoyed munching on those wires.

[Silverbullet]

FYI, the New Fuel Pump/Sender unit is great, way easy to install, REALLY nice kit.

[nullset]

Yes, don't waste your money on higher octane gas. It isn't cleaner, it doesn't burn better, in fact, it's MORE DIFFICULT to ignite. It's designed for high compression engines, to prevent precombustion. Our cars do not have high compression engines, unless your car has had a significant amount of engine work done.

Good luck and welcome to the club!

[pezzonovante88]

Yes, don't waste your money on higher octane gas. It isn't cleaner, it doesn't burn better, in fact, it's MORE DIFFICULT to ignite. It's designed for high compression engines, to prevent precombustion. Our cars do not have high compression engines, unless your car has had a significant amount of engine work done.

Good luck and welcome to the club!

Although, some manufacturers offer 0% ethanol in their high-grade fuel (easier on rubber components in the fuel system). That's the only reason I use it in my D.

[AugustneverEnds]

Although, some manufacturers offer 0% ethanol in their high-grade fuel (easier on rubber components in the fuel system). That's the only reason I use it in my D.

I agree. Fuel delivery systems on older cars were not designed or made with ethanol fuel in mind. Before I began using ethanol-free fuel I was having to change fuel filters on another older car of mine every year, minimum. The D has only ever received non-ethanol and has not had any starting or running problems.

Congratulations on your new car! :) Best of luck and times

[THVGJP]

Hey if you found a mouse then the car was a a stainless steel condo, first thing you should check is the fuse compartment behind the passenger seat on the parcel shelf. I am sure they enjoyed munching on those wires.

Checked out fuse box area all looked ok, mouse didnt even chew on wires in the tool storage area, lights all work good.
Glen

[THVGJP]

Although, some manufacturers offer 0% ethanol in their high-grade fuel (easier on rubber components in the fuel system). That's the only reason I use it in my D.

I never gave a thought to the ethanol % in fuel.. only in my beer of choice (Kokanee, which isnt yet avail in the states). I think here in Penna,Maryland area the ethanol % changes based on seasons, Summer and Winter blends. I am not 100% certain on this there was talk about it years ago being a regional requirement, but again as I said I never paid much attention to it.
Glen

[TTait]

I'd go buy a $15 electric fuel pump at the parts store and use it to pump the gas into cans, then as others said run it in a mower, etc.

Then remove (and save if in good conditions) the old pump, baffle etc. Mark the feed line (pump) versus the return line that dumps back into the tank. Order the new Houston all in one assembly (I have never used it but I hear its great).

Once pumped out, you can clean out the inside of the tank with carb cleaner and clean rags. Its tough to get your arm in there, but it can be done. Wear a tyvek suit from Lowes or be prepared to throw out your clothes. Keep cleaning until the rags come out pristine.

I then flushed my fuel system - get a gallon of fresh clean gas and a gallon of Berrymans B12. I hooked up the $15 fuel pump to the feed line, and I put a $1 clear plastic and paper fuel filter (buy several) on the end of the return. Set both ends into a clean plastic basin...

Then go to the engine compartment and disconnect the feed and return lines at the Fuel distributor. Take a smaller diameter 3" bolt and put a copper washer onto it, then a fender washer, then the feed line, another copper washer, the return line, another fender washer, a second copper washer, and finally the nut. Tighten it up snug but not over tight. Put the assembly over a small basin or tub, and put a cable tie on each of the fuel lines an inch or two down from the fittings to catch drips running down the hose and make sure they drip into the basin.

This completes the non-critical prep - stop now and take a break making sure you have both your fresh gas and B12 before continuing - the following steps are a bit time critical.

When you are ready, pour about a third of the B12 into the basin up front and turn on the fuel pump - keep pumping B12 through the system until it starts to return down the other line and through the filter. Let it circulate for a a few minutes, until the filter starts to clog or until you see no chunks coming into the filter.

Replace the filter, drain the contaminated B12 and repeat. Keep working the B12 through until the B12 runs fairly clear, try to get done within 20-30 minutes. Make sure to periodically check your drip tray back in the engine compartment.

You don't want to leave B12 in the fuel system for extended periods of time - it can be hard on the rubber in the fuel distributor and accumulator (even though your fuel Distributor is bypassed back at the engine) . Just flush the system till its clean - then dump the B12 and run fresh clean gas through the system till you have the B12 out.

Replace the two O-rings in the fuel distributor plunger. Be careful not to nick the o-rings - there is a trick to this I have forgotten.

Re-connect the fuel lines to the fuel distributor with fresh copper washers, replace your fuel filter, and then install your new Houston fuel sending unit. Then you can run it without fear of contamination.

You may have to pull your injectors and clean them (you can use some leftover B12 in a $30 ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight if you want to try it yourself) - make sure to replace the rubber boots and the hold down clips with new ones - they are cheap. Look for procedures elsewhere to check injector spray patterns and check for even flow.

You may need a new accumulator (be prepared to learn a few new curse words if you do it yourself and be careful not to twist hard fuel lines). If your Frequency valve buzzes while the engine is running its likely okay. If its hard to start hot or cold you may have a leaky or failed cold start valve. Warm up pressure regulator should also be checked if its not running great.

The fact that you have driven the car means you should consider doing work in manageable bites - do the fuel system as outlined here but don't touch the vacuum hoses, ignition, relays, anything yet. If it does not run well when you finish you know it something you did in the fuel system. It would really suck to tear down the entire engine, replace everything in the valley, all new vacuum hoses, fresh plugs and wires and cap etc and then not have it start - you won't know where to start again.

With a running car I'd suggest one project at a time...

Have fun - if you get tired or frustrated - take a break and walk away for a while (unless your accumulator is full of B12 - in that case finish the flush then take your break).

[Bitsyncmaster]

I never gave a thought to the ethanol % in fuel.. only in my beer of choice (Kokanee, which isnt yet avail in the states). I think here in Penna,Maryland area the ethanol % changes based on seasons, Summer and Winter blends. I am not 100% certain on this there was talk about it years ago being a regional requirement, but again as I said I never paid much attention to it.
Glen

Here in Maryland as well as most other states, all auto gas has 10 % (E10) ethanol year round. The farmers are pushing for 15% but most people know that will really cause problems.

[Dangermouse]

I then flushed my fuel system - get a gallon of fresh clean gas and a gallon of Berrymans B12. I hooked up the $15 fuel pump to the feed line, and I put a $1 clear plastic and paper fuel filter (buy several) on the end of the return. Set both ends into a clean plastic basin......................

............................., replace your fuel filter, and then install your new Houston fuel sending unit. Then you can run it without fear of contamination.
.

Fantastic post. :thumbup:

[David T]

No need to throw away good fuel. Remove it from the tank, clean the tank, replace what you want and then strain the fuel and put it back in or use it on another car. In fact, it is difficult to dispose of fuel. It is much easier to use it up. I use Acetone, Nitril gloves and a lot of ventilation. Do it outdoors if possible. No need to remove the tank, if you are not too large you can do it from the trunk. Since you already drove the car I do not see any danger in continuing to use it except you most likely have a problem with the parts in the tank, that's why it didn't drive well till you put some fuel in. Keep an eye on the brake system. If you start leaking brake fluid or it is very dark and thick you will soon be rebuilding the brake system.
David Teitelbaum

[Delorean Industries]

Throw the fuel away..... Why would you waste your time cleaning out a tank and then throw the same junk back in. Its just gas.....

[TTait]

I'd go buy a $15 electric fuel pump at the parts store and use it to pump the gas into cans, then as others said run it in a mower, etc.

Then remove (and save if in good conditions) the old pump, baffle etc. Mark the feed line (pump) versus the return line that dumps back into the tank. Order the new Houston all in one assembly (I have never used it but I hear its great).

Once pumped out, you can clean out the inside of the tank with carb cleaner and clean rags. Its tough to get your arm in there, but it can be done. Wear a tyvek suit from Lowes or be prepared to throw out your clothes. Keep cleaning until the rags come out pristine.

I then flushed my fuel system - get a gallon of fresh clean gas and a gallon of Berrymans B12. I hooked up the $15 fuel pump to the feed line, and I put a $1 clear plastic and paper fuel filter (buy several) on the end of the return. Set both ends into a clean plastic basin...

Then go to the engine compartment and disconnect the feed and return lines at the Fuel distributor. Take a smaller diameter 3" bolt and put a copper washer onto it, then a fender washer, then the feed line, another copper washer, the return line, another fender washer, a second copper washer, and finally the nut. Tighten it up snug but not over tight. Put the assembly over a small basin or tub, and put a cable tie on each of the fuel lines an inch or two down from the fittings to catch drips running down the hose and make sure they drip into the basin.

This completes the non-critical prep - stop now and take a break making sure you have both your fresh gas and B12 before continuing - the following steps are a bit time critical.

When you are ready, pour about a third of the B12 into the basin up front and turn on the fuel pump - keep pumping B12 through the system until it starts to return down the other line and through the filter. Let it circulate for a a few minutes, until the filter starts to clog or until you see no chunks coming into the filter.

Replace the filter, drain the contaminated B12 and repeat. Keep working the B12 through until the B12 runs fairly clear, try to get done within 20-30 minutes. Make sure to periodically check your drip tray back in the engine compartment.

You don't want to leave B12 in the fuel system for extended periods of time - it can be hard on the rubber in the fuel distributor and accumulator (even though your fuel Distributor is bypassed back at the engine) . Just flush the system till its clean - then dump the B12 and run fresh clean gas through the system till you have the B12 out.

Replace the two O-rings in the fuel distributor plunger. Be careful not to nick the o-rings - there is a trick to this I have forgotten.

Re-connect the fuel lines to the fuel distributor with fresh copper washers, replace your fuel filter, and then install your new Houston fuel sending unit. Then you can run it without fear of contamination.

You may have to pull your injectors and clean them (you can use some leftover B12 in a $30 ultrasonic cleaner from harbor freight if you want to try it yourself) - make sure to replace the rubber boots and the hold down clips with new ones - they are cheap. Look for procedures elsewhere to check injector spray patterns and check for even flow.

You may need a new accumulator (be prepared to learn a few new curse words if you do it yourself and be careful not to twist hard fuel lines). If your Frequency valve buzzes while the engine is running its likely okay. If its hard to start hot or cold you may have a leaky or failed cold start valve. Warm up pressure regulator should also be checked if its not running great.

The fact that you have driven the car means you should consider doing work in manageable bites - do the fuel system as outlined here but don't touch the vacuum hoses, ignition, relays, anything yet. If it does not run well when you finish you know it something you did in the fuel system. It would really suck to tear down the entire engine, replace everything in the valley, all new vacuum hoses, fresh plugs and wires and cap etc and then not have it start - you won't know where to start again.

With a running car I'd suggest one project at a time...

Have fun - if you get tired or frustrated - take a break and walk away for a while (unless your accumulator is full of B12 - in that case finish the flush then take your break).

Sorry for the multiple posts - I realized I left out some info from the op and wanted to clean up my mess for future readers. In another thread someone asked how to find the cheap fuel pump...

I went to a parts store and talked with the guy behind the counter, and had him do a computer search for fuel pump, sorted by price low to high, and we found an electric pump for about $12 out of some pickup truck...

I just did the same thing on ebay, and found this as the lowest price buy it now electric fuel pump currently listed:

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/mazda-b2200-...p2047675.m2392

for those looking elsewhere or in the future, that happens to be the pump from a Mazda b2200 pickup truck, and is selling for $14.