how to get the power window switches to STAY in the center console?

[DeLorean]

Any advice on this? They seem to contact the tub, and when installed, work their way out of the console, or worse... jam on

[mluder]

Any advice on this? They seem to contact the tub, and when installed, work their way out of the console, or worse... jam on

You can correct the problem buy correcting the console. Basically years of leaning onthe center arm rest getting in and out of the car have deformed it moving it closer to the tubn as you have noted. I was able to fix min by removing the ash tray and giving a gentle but persuaive tug upward on the armrest. It's flexible enough to reshape by hand. Mine stayed but others have found it necessary to shim the area with wood blocks to keep it from deforming again.

Cheers.
Steven

[Jonathan]

You can correct the problem buy correcting the console. Basically years of leaning onthe center arm rest getting in and out of the car have deformed it moving it closer to the tubn as you have noted. I was able to fix min by removing the ash tray and giving a gentle but persuaive tug upward on the armrest. It's flexible enough to reshape by hand. Mine stayed but others have found it necessary to shim the area with wood blocks to keep it from deforming again.

Cheers.
Steven

My console is out of the car at the moment, so I thought I'd upload a couple photos of it in case you were wondering what there is to work with underneath it.

16393163941639516396

[Jeff K]

I have a similar issue with 16245. I did prop up the center console, it seems the punch-outs (holes) for the switches have ever so slightly reamed out. It seems like a few millimeters, but they do rise out of the socket for me too.

[DeLorean]

I DO lean on the center console too... I will try to bend the board back into shape!

[EdR5150]

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5054-LED-Window-Switches-DMC-Midwest&p=72754&viewfull=1#post72754

I need to do this myself. My dummy switch can't be inserted because it hits the wire loom.

[Mike F]

My console is out of the car at the moment, so I thought I'd upload a couple photos of it in case you were wondering what there is to work with underneath it.

16393163941639516396

Not to throw the thread off track, but is that a Nintendo R.O.B. robot visible through the tray hole in your third pic?

[Jonathan]

Not to throw the thread off track, but is that a Nintendo R.O.B. robot visible through the tray hole in your third pic?

Ummmm..... aaah...... Whaddaya mean? I don't know what you're talking about :)

[jawn101]

Matt (kajcienski) and I came up with a mounting plate that goes a long way toward correcting part of this condition, but I'll let him say more since he's the brains of the operation....

However, suffice it to say that my switches were constantly bouncing out and this part fixed the issue in a completely invisible and reversible fashion with no modifications to any part of the car. I think experiences may vary depending on how crushed your center console is though.

The wood blocks under the console is a great fix for sagging. Matt's part does more to keep the switches straight and even.

[john 05141]

I glued a plastic plate of 3mm underneath the opening of the switches. After they are glued in with a Stanley knife you can perfectly trim them. After the armrest was newley recovered, I glued the leather thru those openings, creating a firm grip of the switches. But I have those new illuminated window switches and they are longer. So to avoid they popped out I made some sort of extention wires and now everything is nice and straight.
I tought I had a picture of that somewhere but I cannot find it.

Jan

[Kenny_Z]

I found that if you straighten the section the switches plug into your issues will disappear. Also stop using the console to get in and out of the car.

Mine looked like this:
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/console02.jpg

After I straightened it by putting it on a nice flat surface, using a modified piece of 2x4 to press it back flat, and then did any fine tuning by hand. The metal is very soft. Then I tested it.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/console04.jpg

My switches haven't popped out since, it's been over a year.

[David T]

You also have to carefully tuck the wires underneath so it isn't under the switches preventing them from going all the way in. There is a notch on the side of each square hole. If you put the switches in upside down the bump on the switch is not in the notch. Before reinstalling the console make up 2 pieces of thin sheet metal about 1" by 12" and tuck them under the left and right lower front edges so they stay close to the tunnel and don't flare out. Be careful with the lighter. If you bend it or force it you will break it or short it out.
David Teitelbaum

[kajcienski]

Matt (kajcienski) and I came up with a mounting plate that goes a long way toward correcting part of this condition, but I'll let him say more since he's the brains of the operation....

However, suffice it to say that my switches were constantly bouncing out and this part fixed the issue in a completely invisible and reversible fashion with no modifications to any part of the car. I think experiences may vary depending on how crushed your center console is though.

The wood blocks under the console is a great fix for sagging. Matt's part does more to keep the switches straight and even.

Matt here - Yep, Jon and I did a small run of steel plates (did CNC from a CAD file) that totally corrects this issue while allowing you to stay completely stock. Only takes 2 minutes to install and your switches will align perfectly, stay snug, and never rub or get stuck on the wall of the switch valley on the console. We covered the plate in paper thin vinyl that matches the interior so blends in perfectly. Jon and I are pretty proud of this little project, especially since most every D suffers from crooked switches. There is a thread somewhere on this forum of the prototype plate where I showed how it works and the results.

[Jonathan]

Be careful with the lighter. If you bend it or force it you will break it or short it out.

Just as an aside here, if yours is broken, a great replacement to the lighted ring lighter is here: (originally found by Farrar I think)

http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4471&category_id=&category_parent_id=

With the added bonus that it fits the current style of 12 volt plugs, so your phone charger won't keep popping out like it does on the original.