While I have the rear trim panels removed...

[Farrar]

Hello, all.

I am removing the rear trim panels to seal up those three-inch holes where water gets in. While I have those panels removed, what else should I do? It looks like there's a lot of electrical stuff going on there. Anything I should check/fix/upgrade?

The speakers are in fine shape, by the way.

Thanks in advance.

[Jonathan]

Hello, all.

I am removing the rear trim panels to seal up those three-inch holes where water gets in. While I have those panels removed, what else should I do? It looks like there's a lot of electrical stuff going on there. Anything I should check/fix/upgrade?

The speakers are in fine shape, by the way.

Thanks in advance.

Your seat belt retracting mechanisms are in there. If your belts are worn or the mechanism doesn't work very well, now is a good time with your panels removed. I say this from experience as I am in the middle of a similar project (speakers and stereo upgrade).

[Farrar]

Thanks! The retracting mechanism seems to work well, but is a bit weak on the passenger side. What do you suggest would help? New springs, lubricant...?

[DeLorean]

Those are a pain, eh? Mine were glued in under the weather stripping, I had to warm them up with a heat gun in order to remove them without damaging them.

Be real sure your speakers are in good shape, and you may want to use some black silicone anyplace you think could leak.

[Shep]

If your air inlets need painting (the ones at the rear of the glass), now might be a good time to grab a can of SEM Trim Black and paint them. Since you'll have the whole panel off the car, you won't have to worry about overspray getting inside the intake, and don't need to mask off as much.

[Farrar]

Those are a pain, eh? Mine were glued in under the weather stripping, I had to warm them up with a heat gun in order to remove them without damaging them.

I believe that's how they are supposed to be installed; a previous owner had the rear speakers replaced, and the trim panels were replaced in the same manner. The vinyl is cracked along the edges, but it can't be seen underneath the weatherstrip.


If your air inlets need painting (the ones at the rear of the glass), now might be a good time to grab a can of SEM Trim Black and paint them. Since you'll have the whole panel off the car, you won't have to worry about overspray getting inside the intake, and don't need to mask off as much.

I'm sorry, but I don't understand what you're talking about.

[Jonathan]

Hey Farrar,

I bought new kits for both sides. The kits come with the retracting mechanism, belt itself, as well as the receptacle it plugs into. Drivers side has the electrical connection that goes to your instrument cluster seat belt light.

Mine were still ok functionally, but faded and a bit worn and the metal ends had some surface rust. My drivers side mechanism didn't retract very well but the passenger was okay. You know, to fix the retracting part I might be able to lube it or replace a spring or something. I haven't opened it up yet at this time.

The kits were about $159 per side, maybe more now. It was in my budget, so I felt it was a good investment. The ones taken out could be sold to someone I suppose.

[eagle-co94]

I think he's talking about interior panels, not quarter panels.

[Shep]

I think he's talking about interior panels, not quarter panels.No wonder he was confused. :facepalm: Sorry about that, I did indeed mix them up. This thread makes a hell of a lot more sense now.

[Farrar]

No wonder he was confused. :facepalm: Sorry about that, I did indeed mix them up. This thread makes a hell of a lot more sense now.

No problem! Thanks anyway! :)

[David T]

Even if the speakers are good, you may want to run new wiring for them. The OEM wiring has both rear speakers returns coming back to the radio as one common wire. The gauge of the original wire is also small by today's standards.
David Teitelbaum

[Farrar]

Even if the speakers are good, you may want to run new wiring for them. The OEM wiring has both rear speakers returns coming back to the radio as one common wire. The gauge of the original wire is also small by today's standards.
David Teitelbaum

Good thought. New speaker wires were run by a previous owner, but only to a point where they re-join the original wires a few inches south of the rear speakers. Thanks!

[Farrar]

The vinyl on one of the trim panels is badly cracked. I bought some vinyl a while ago to re-do the console, and although there's plenty of material left to do the rear trim panels, I am nervous about the shape of it.

I know a heat gun will soften the vinyl so that it can form to the shape of the plastic. But most vinyl covering DIY instructions I see on the 'net involve contact cement, 3M 80, or something else with a very short cure time. I think I will need more than five minutes to cover the piece... so can anyone suggest an adhesive that doesn't set as quickly?

Thanks!

[Rich]

....most vinyl covering DIY instructions I see on the 'net involve contact cement, 3M 80, or something else with a very short cure time. I think I will need more than five minutes to cover the piece... so can anyone suggest an adhesive that doesn't set as quickly!

Well, the one you might be talking about doesn't set as quickly as 5 minutes; it gives you up to 15 minutes per panel so you might consider proceeding in that direction. See the timing in bold below. This is taken direct from the can in front of me. Italics are my comments.


3M 08088 General Trim Adhesive - Clear

Apply 2 overlapping coats to each bonding surface. Apply coats in opposite orientation. The nozzle sprays a wide, lacy zigzag pattern of the adhesive.

Allow adhesive to dry 1-3 minutes - important step for contact adhesives like this.

Mate the surfaces and bond using firm, uniform pressure. Bonds must be made within 15 minutes after adhesive application.

When I have used this stuff it's like magic. Goes down fast and wide, not at all as slow as spray paint. I bet you could do the vinyl and the panel in way under 10 minutes per set. Not that I've used it on this particular repair. Recommend a practice spray on some spare material to get the hang of it and see what kind of coverage will get the vinyl to adhere the way you like it on a dummy panel of plexiglas or aluminum. And try stretching the vinyl here and there while you're at it. That's a 3-D panel, as you know...

[thomasfreed]

Hello, all.

I am removing the rear trim panels to seal up those three-inch holes where water gets in. While I have those panels removed, what else should I do? It looks like there's a lot of electrical stuff going on there. Anything I should check/fix/upgrade?



You should get some experts and let them check it up. Then, you will be notified if there are something to be upgraded or what else to be fixed.

[EdR5150]

I recovered the trim board under the rear window, and found the vinyl backing absorbs a lot of the 3M 08088 General Trim Adhesive before it begins to get tacky. I thought I used a lot of adhesive, but it didn't hold that well, and the vinyl pealed right off. Maybe I should have used 2X or 3X the amount of 3M adhesive, but I decided to go a different route. I bought some DAP Weldwood contact cement, and a cheap disposable brush. After brushing it on both sides, letting it tack up, and heating it with a heat gun, it molded perfectly. The bond is so strong, I think the vinyl might be on there permanently.

[Farrar]

Thanks, Rich! I will check that out and try a few practice runs on some plastic shapes... I have some old bottles and cake boxes that have curves and corners. Great idea!

Edit: Looks like Eddie and I posted simultaneously... Eddie, did the vinyl you use have a cloth backing? Thanks for reminding me about that rear trim piece -- I will have to do it, as well, so that it will match!

[EdR5150]

It does have a cloth backing. I'll post some pics when I get home. The vinyl I found is a decent match to the Delorean's pebble-like pattern. I'm also going to use the same vinyl when I get my new aluminum seat backs!

I installed a different rear cabin light while that trim panel was out. You know, in case you want to take on any more projects :)

[Farrar]

It does have a cloth backing. I'll post some pics when I get home. The vinyl I found is a decent match to the Delorean's pebble-like pattern. I'm also going to use the same vinyl when I get my new aluminum seat backs!

I installed a different rear cabin light while that trim panel was out. You know, in case you want to take on any more projects :)

I generally take on several projects at once, hence the "while I'm here..." spiral. I am also considering upgrading the lighting back there while I have the panels removed. I added LED strips to every hole in the rear trim panel above the parcel shelf. Sorry no pics ... it's removed right now. But it'd be nice to compare with your setup. Thanks!

[EdR5150]

The vinyl I used (only $15 a yard!): http://www.hancockfabrics.com/Black-Shang-Vinyl-Fabric-Expanded-Back_stcVVproductId48185221VVcatId539402VVviewprod .htm

My new vinyl, my newly recovered trim, and my old stock seat back:
http://www.16908.info/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/022713_2318_ExploringLi9.jpg

http://www.16908.info/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/022713_2318_ExploringLi10.jpg

Again, not an exact match, but close. An untrained eye probably wouldn't spot the difference. I should buy some more vinyl because now I'm thinking of doing my side panels.

http://www.16908.info/wp-content/uploads/2013/02/022713_2318_ExploringLi8.jpg

Can't wait to see this light installed!

[David T]

If you use contact cement, consider it permanent. It also has a VERY short working time and once the 2 parts touch you cannot reposition them. Not a big deal if you are trimming but you can't have any wrinkles because they cannot be worked out.
David Teitelbaum

[Farrar]

most vinyl covering DIY instructions I see on the 'net involve contact cement, 3M 80, or something else with a very short cure time. I think I will need more than five minutes to cover the piece... so can anyone suggest an adhesive that doesn't set as quickly?


If you use contact cement, consider it permanent.

:hmm:

Still skimming through the posts, eh, Dave?

[mluder]

The vinyl I used (only $15 a yard!): http://www.hancockfabrics.com/Black-Shang-Vinyl-Fabric-Expanded-Back_stcVVproductId48185221VVcatId539402VVviewprod .htm


I noticed they also have this... http://www.hancockfabrics.com/Floridian-Gull-Grey-Vinyl-Fabric-Expanded-Back_stcVVproductId49134734VVcatId539402VVviewprod .htm
I wonder if that would work for a binnacle re-cover?

Cheers
Steve

[EdR5150]

I didn't see it, but my car has a black interior, so I was only interested in black. I was able to visit a nearby HF store so I could see the vinyl pattern and color before I bought it. If the color vinyl isn't exactly correct, you can always dye it, right? If I end up at the store again, I'll see if they have it, and take a pic.

I might try recovering my dash and binnacle, since my PO recovered them in vinyl with an obscure pattern. It's starting to bother me that it doesn't match the glovebox lid, center console, seats, etc. For $15 a yard, it's worth a try!

[Farrar]

The vinyl I bought has a "grain" similar to the grey sample posted above, but it's black. I plan on eventually doing all of the trim pieces with it. I guess I will start with the rear piece, since it looks like the easiest one.

I bought a small bottle of vinyl floor tile adhesive at the Home Depot. Its cure time is one hour. I will try it on a scrap, and see if it comes off with heat. (The old vinyl came right off at the edges when I had my heat gun on "low" during the trim panel removal process, and I would like to have the option to change vinyl in the future if I desire.)

[ramblinmike]

The vinyl I bought has a "grain" similar to the grey sample posted above, but it's black. I plan on eventually doing all of the trim pieces with it. I guess I will start with the rear piece, since it looks like the easiest one.

I bought a small bottle of vinyl floor tile adhesive at the Home Depot. Its cure time is one hour. I will try it on a scrap, and see if it comes off with heat. (The old vinyl came right off at the edges when I had my heat gun on "low" during the trim panel removal process, and I would like to have the option to change vinyl in the future if I desire.)

I'd be curious if this floor adhesive is Ble to stand up to the heat of a car interior in the summer. I'd hate for you to go through the work only to have it fall off the first hot summer day.

[Farrar]

I'd be curious if this floor adhesive is Ble to stand up to the heat of a car interior in the summer. I'd hate for you to go through the work only to have it fall off the first hot summer day.

This is another reason to try it on a scrap. I have a simple test in mind: put an oven thermometer next to the piece, then hit it with the heat gun on low power until it reads 180°F. (I've never read hotter than 160°F inside my car, so I consider 20°F good headroom.) If the adhesive lets go, then I'm out a few bucks and need to try something else for the adhesive.

[David T]

You can try an aerosol spray can of adhesive glue. It is like contact cement but you can separate the parts if you don't like how it fits and reset them. It has a little longer set time than contact cement. 3M makes a good one. What I want to emphasize about contact cement is that once the 2 parts touch, if you try to separate them you wind up damaging them, it is almost impossible to undo. Also the solvents in contact cement can affect some vinyls, discoloring them or softening them. It is great stuff but in certain, very limited applications.
David Teitelbaum

[Farrar]

Thanks, David! I'll ask around for that 3M stuff.

[Ron]

FYI- There they make several "grades" and some are hard to find locally...

See Page 4 (http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?6666660Zjcf6lVs6EVs66SuatCOrrrrQ-)

[Farrar]

Thanks, Ron. Looks like 3M 72 would do the trick...

[Farrar]

BTW, next to the "mystery connectors" inside the panel, I have holes drilled in the body. Obviously, something was going to go there and connect with those braces (?) inside the panel, but they were never installed. They line up perfectly.

17014
17015

(Note sophisticated photo highlighting technology indicating location of holes and brackets... :clown:)

On another note: I thought about re-attaching the panels using neodymium magnets instead of screws. Not sure about it, though.

[eagle-co94]

I like the magnet idea, but how often do you think you'll need to be in there?

[Farrar]

I like the magnet idea, but how often do you think you'll need to be in there?

With my luck? Every two weeks. :swear1:

[eagle-co94]

Why, do you plan on smuggling anything hidden behind the panels? Ha ha ha...oh:slap:

[Farrar]

Why, do you plan on smuggling anything hidden behind the panels? Ha ha ha...oh:slap:

I toyed with the idea of seeing how much vibration-damping foam I could put back there.. but it looks like the answer is "not enough to make a difference."

Mostly I just want to get rid of the screws. They look so ... old-fashioned.

[eagle-co94]

I know exactly what you mean. I hopefully won't have to deal with too much interior work for a while. I have a nightmare of exterior work first.

[Farrar]

This one project has grown into a number of projects all at once. It's like a tiny snowball at the top of a hill. I pushed it and now it's growing...

I haven't fixed the hole in the body yet because I found a hack job in the starting circuit, which I have now repaired. (Reference: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=95051&viewfull=1#post95051 )

Meanwhile, I have noticed the trim panel underneath the rear glass is sagging, so its Velcro needs replacing (or I will use magnets?).

Also, I have noticed the headliner sagging at the rear. Not the cloth, but the board itself. I am pretty sure that if I remove that to investigate, I will end up doing the famous Roof Panel Fix, since the next thing to do for that procedure is remove the stainless T-panel.

I will probably end up re-doing the courtesy lights, too, while I'm at it.

At this point the seats are out, the carpet is out, the rear trim panels are out, the kneepads and console are out... somehow, the dashboard and binnacle are still in the car! Well, at least I can troubleshoot electrical and mechanical stuff without an interior...

[JMLaux]

BTW, next to the "mystery connectors" inside the panel, I have holes drilled in the body. Obviously, something was going to go there and connect with those braces (?) inside the panel, but they were never installed. They line up perfectly.

The parts diagrams can be your best friend here :) Those connectors on the panels hold the fir trees that help to hold the panel on the body. My panel was missing them and they seem to help a little better once I replaced them.

[DrJeff]

...I will probably end up re-doing the courtesy lights, too, while I'm at it.

Hi Farrar, I recently installed two new courtesy lights from Euramtec. They are about a close to an exact replica as you can get - almost wierdly close.

http://www.euramtec.com/parts/c/c01/7180.html

They also list items on eBay, with the courtesy light listed as Delorean compatible.

[Farrar]

The parts diagrams can be your best friend here :) Those connectors on the panels hold the fir trees that help to hold the panel on the body. My panel was missing them and they seem to help a little better once I replaced them.

Thanks! To my knowledge, no one's car has them there, so I forgot to check the diagram. Oops!


Hi Farrar, I recently installed two new courtesy lights from Euramtec. They are about a close to an exact replica as you can get - almost wierdly close.

I already have replacements for those from Hella:

17429

I am planning to install additional lighting.