Rear bolt question - DMC diagram incorrect?

[Jeff K]

This part on this diagram
101259 - LWR LINK BOLT - Part #15

The nut for it shows SAE 1/2". Is that correct? I think it's metric M12 - unless I mixed up something when I took my suspension apart.

Here is the diagram.

17054

Thanks
Jeff

[Delorean Industries]

This part on this diagram
101259 - LWR LINK BOLT - Part #15

The nut for it shows SAE 1/2". Is that correct? I think it's metric M12 - unless I mixed up something when I took my suspension apart.

Here is the diagram.

17054

Thanks
Jeff


Jeff, this is a 1/2 -20 threaded bolt. Make sure to use a nyloc nut for this part.

[Mark D]

I agree with Josh, and if my memory is correct it's the same size bolt that secures the upper link (threads into the frame). That should be 1/2"-20 thread also.

Edit: The diagram lists both of these bolts as item #15 so my statement above should be correct.

[er1c]

Hi All,

Frame is back from Galv and paint, I need to clear the threads for the upper rear control arm bolt.

With one side I managed to clear it with the bolt but with the other side it wont start so I will need to re-cut it.

Whilst the bolt fits through the chassis hole to the captive bit the tap doesnt. It only gets about 1/3 through.

I re-drilled the chassis hole to 1/2 in order to get the bolt through (as it was painted and galv over etc) I kept it bear minimum to keep the suspension nice and tight.

Is it safe to enlarge enough to get the 1/2 tap through in order to re-tap that hole ?

[BABIS]

Hi All,

Frame is back from Galv and paint, I need to clear the threads for the upper rear control arm bolt.

With one side I managed to clear it with the bolt but with the other side it wont start so I will need to re-cut it.

Whilst the bolt fits through the chassis hole to the captive bit the tap doesnt. It only gets about 1/3 through.

I re-drilled the chassis hole to 1/2 in order to get the bolt through (as it was painted and galv over etc) I kept it bear minimum to keep the suspension nice and tight.

Is it safe to enlarge enough to get the 1/2 tap through in order to re-tap that hole ?

IIRC the correct tap is 1/2" UNF (maybe you have a tap which isn't UNF)

[er1c]

IIRC the correct tap is 1/2" UNF (maybe you have a tap which isn't UNF)

Thanks Babis, its definitely a UNF tap I have double checked and its new in the pack. I assume any 1/2 tap should be the same width.

I think the reality is the 1/2 UNF tap is slightly larger than my 1/2 drill bit. I know I have the hole fairly tight as its a bit of a struggle to get the bolt through so I probably need to open it up a bit.

I have been OTT on all of this re-drilling and I know with my new front LCA's the factory drilled holes leave the bolt with a fraction of movement as do most holes for bolts on cars really.

[er1c]

Well after thinking I was losing the plot I managed to find some batteries for my calipers.

Bolt 12.2
Tap 12.2

So I think what's happened is as the bolt is so tight on the hole its tricky to squeeze through. Now keep in mind that the tap is a set of sharp teeth, they are dragging on the surface.

It made sense as soon as I measured it, so I will probably just file the hole a tiny bit more to allow the tap to run through.

The simple ones are always the best.

[Josh]

All the suspension pivot bolts are 1/2", front and back.

Also, the rear brake caliper bolts are imperial threads.