At what point did the single key system take over?

[eagle-co94]

I ask this because I only got one key with my latest D and it doesn't go all the way into the door...and I can't get into the car. The VIN# in question is 1045. I don't want to damage anything trying to get in. The windshield is cracked so that is an option to get into the car...though I'd rather hold off on that method. Any suggestions?

[DMCMW Dave]

http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/keys.html

Shows how to tell which kind you have


about VIN 4200

[eagle-co94]

Thanks Dave. That's exactly what I thought was the case. They're early style locks and the car didn't come with a door key. Now to figure out how to solve that problem.

[DMC5180]

I ask this because I only got one key with my latest D and it doesn't go all the way into the door...and I can't get into the car. The VIN# in question is 1045. I don't want to damage anything trying to get in. The windshield is cracked so that is an option to get into the car...though I'd rather hold off on that method. Any suggestions?

So you bought the car without opening the doors :hmm:

[eagle-co94]

Oh no, I bought the car and the doors were open at the time...but I closed them and can't open them now. I've sat in the car and checked things out, fixed a window and went out to check out more but ran into this roadblock.

[Rich]

Oh no, I bought the car and the doors were open at the time...but I closed them and can't open them now. I've sat in the car and checked things out, fixed a window and went out to check out more but ran into this roadblock.

So both doors act like they're locked,both of the windows are up and the key will not go all the way into either of the locks.

In order of increasing risk of damage:
1.a. Lube or solvent spray both of the door locks with everything you've got. Get the key fully into either one of them and unlock. Heating the key first, wiggling it, and cussing a lot may help. The root cause of your problem is presumably a frozen lock tumbler - in both doors, somehow (?) - or something else is jammed into both locks ahead of the key.
1.b. Locksmith helps finds a way to get your key into either lock.
2. Locksmith picks one of the locks or gets lucky with a slim jim past the door glass. No idea whether a slim jim works on this car, only that it risks some door glass scratches unless you mask the glass first.

[jawn101]

Or hope the power locks and inertia switch both work and the inertia switch recall wasn't done - then kick the driver's side front wheel well until it trips and unlocks the doors for you :)

Kidding of course...

I also don't know if a slim jim would work. Never thought of it but it seems unlikely given how complex the rod system is, unless you got really lucky and hooked the one connecting right to the lock cylinder.

[eagle-co94]

Well Jon, seeing that my car was in an accident I won't hurt anything by the kicking so I may try that.

Rich, my car is definitely a 2-key system car so using my ignition/storage compartment key in the doors will definitely not work. It's obvious when the key stops about 1/2" short of going in as far as it does on my '82.

[DMC5180]

Are both windows fully closed? A sliver of an opening would allow you to slide a rod or something of that nature in to trip the lock rocker. I've heard you worse case you can force the window down some. You might damage the OE regulator but those should be replaced anyway. You can also try to contact James at DMCH. They might have the key code records for that car since it's a very early VIN. The other option is call a good lock smith that can hand cut the code. When I first got my car the PO had lost the original keys so he had to have a locksmith hand file one.

[eagle-co94]

They are now! I was a genius and fixed the driver's window (somehow it was outside the guide on the fixed glass) so it's in place now. That may have been how it was being opened before I got it.

[Rich]

Well Jon, seeing that my car was in an accident I won't hurt anything by the kicking so I may try that.

Rich, my car is definitely a 2-key system car so using my ignition/storage compartment key in the doors will definitely not work. It's obvious when the key stops about 1/2" short of going in as far as it does on my '82.

Yup, missed the part where you indirectly told us that you do not have a door key to the doors. I thought your door key was not inserting fully. Hence your question about when the dual-key system went to single-key. So skip my ideas about using a door key.

So go for a good locksmith to pick the lock. Getting the lock tumblers to line up and pop it should be worth the money.

[DMCMW Dave]

Figure out your igition key code (A photo of the key will work) then order a lock conversion kit. You'll get two more ignition keys and a set of late style door locks that will match your ignition. And some instructions. Then you can break the plastic early locks if need be and replace them.

James cannot cut early door lock keys to code.

[David T]

If you closed the doors and don't have a door key then we can assume they are not locked. Try pushing down on the door while you pull on the handle but be careful not to break the handle! My guess is the doors are not adjusted well and are just jammed. You are not supposed to be able to lock the doors while they are open. Doing that (forcing the doors locked while open) will bend and knock all of the internal adjustments out of whack. If it is really bad the only way you are getting the doors open is to get inside, remove the trim on the door and move the linkages till you can open the doors. Try both doors, maybe you will get lucky and get one open. At least you do have the windscreen option. A slim-jim can work but not in the conventional manner. Whoever is manipulating it must be familiar withe the internals of the door so they know where all of the parts are, how to "catch" them and which way to move them. It is not at all like any other car. BTW, a one key system does NOT mean you only have one key! It means one key will operate the doors AND the ignition, you still should have TWO keys, they are just the same. (With a 2 key system you will have FOUR keys). Six if you count the locking fuel cap.
David Teitelbaum

[Patrick C]

...a one key system does NOT mean you only have one key! It means one key will operate the doors AND the ignition, you still should have TWO keys, they are just the same. (With a 2 key system you will have FOUR keys). Six if you count the locking fuel cap.
David Teitelbaum
Six keys? This is incorrect. The locking gas cap uses the ignition key.

[eagle-co94]

Right, I have a 2 key system with 2 keys (both ignition/storage compartment), one's cut on a Volvo blank the other on a DMC repro blank. The locking gas cap is long gone (as is the gas flap hood).

No dice on getting the windows to move. The same lock switch rockers on my '82 are in the back position with the doors locked, everything functioning properly. The door lock switch rockers on 1045 are pressed forward telling me that the doors are locked. The strikers are definitely locked at the front of the doors, but not at the rear. I'm guessing something is either binding inside the doors or got messed up in the accident.

[Shep]

Personally, I would just go with a locksmith. Get one to come over to your house and pick the lock for you. Search for some local locksmiths on Google, there's plenty that advertise making house calls. If one door unlocks but won't open for whatever reason, have him do the other side before he leaves. Considering how small the door keys are, it shouldn't take terribly long to pick the locks.

If that doesn't work, while I personally would save this as an absolute last resort when everything else completely fails, smashing the fixed glass part of the window, reaching in, and unlocking the door manually is an option. Then cover the broken window with a trash bag so the interior stays dry when it rains. I can't imagine it would be better than removing the windshield to climb in though.

[eagle-co94]

Well I just went back and fiddled with 10077 and realized that I had left it unlocked...so I was backwards on my locks. Apparently 1045 is unlocked, but both forward latches are jammed for some reason. This is going to be fun to figure out.

Worst case scenario is a break through the already broken windshield to get into the car.

I'm not in a rush to get into the car so I'll call DMCH and cross my fingers tomorrow. If no luck then I'll resort to breaking in.

[DMC5180]

Well that stinks. I know I've had a couple times where I had to CYCLE the locks w/key in order to get the door open. For whatever reason using the interior rocker was not enough (no solid THUNK of the solenoids). That was when I first got the car. A Rebuilt Driver Dooride Lock solenoid fixed that issue and a LOCKZILLA (DLM).

[Rich]

Well I just went back and fiddled with 10077 and realized that I had left it unlocked...so I was backwards on my locks. Apparently 1045 is unlocked, but both forward latches are jammed for some reason. This is going to be fun to figure out.

Worst case scenario is a break through the already broken windshield to get into the car.

I'm not in a rush to get into the car so I'll call DMCH and cross my fingers tomorrow. If no luck then I'll resort to breaking in.

OK, so now we are back to my first problem re-statement "both doors act like they are locked". And David T's note points to the likelihood that the doors are "unlocked" but will not un-latch. Seems odd that both of them would fail at the same time but it seems you just have all the luck.

Now you seem to be in the same situation as this member did last year, along the lines David T indicates? http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5381 "Unlocked" but "jammed". You may get lucky if you can work either of the lock solenoids repeatedly to where the linkage will at last clear from the one pair of door latches. Don't overdo it on the lock solenoid cycling - the relays and the solenoids were not meant to run hot.

[deloumis]

When you attempt to open the doors do they move at all? As in will they open half an in or so.. I had a similar problem where my front latch wouldn't open. It took me a while to figure it out but first push the door shut completely then push down on the forward part of the door and and try opening the door. Play with it a bit push the door down a few times and try lifting from the bottom. My rear latch was releasing first so the tension of the torsion bar was pushing up on the door and not allowing the front latch to open. Worth a try my door would not open without doing this way.

[eagle-co94]

Thanks for the tip Loumis. The rears do open about half an inch, but trying those options didn't work for me. Hopefully DMCH will be able to help me.

[Silverbullet]

Mine WAS a 2 key car... I only had one key... took me awhile to figure out the door key was shorter.... Now I have a one key car, I had the NEW door locks changed to fit ignition, storage compartment, and Gas Cap. I really like having just one key... Of course I never use the door key, as I have the remote control door locks and Wings aloft...