Stainless rear screen upper finisher (T-panel hold down)

[jawn101]

Someone mentioned recently that a stainless version of this part had been made: https://store.delorean.com/p-9338-rear-screen-upper-finisher.aspx

Anyone know anything about that?

If that's just my imagination, does anyone know what's improved about the ones Houston sells now? $160 for a plastic bit seems rather steep, is it much stiffer or something?

[jmettee]

Not sure if the DMCH replacement is a lot stronger, but they deleted all the vertical slots that the original had (the image shown is the original design). At least this is what I recall seeing. That alone should make it stronger. It is still plastic.

Hopefully someone that has bought one can comment or show a pic. I think DPI may have had a stainless version, but not sure.

[jawn101]

Not sure if the DMCH replacement is a lot stronger, but they deleted all the vertical slots that the original had (the image shown is the original design). At least this is what I recall seeing. That alone should make it stronger. It is still plastic.

Hopefully someone that has bought one can comment or show a pic. I think DPI may have had a stainless version, but not sure.

Oh, that's kind of crappy. If they're going to offer a part that's dramatically different in appearance I think the image should reflect that. I don't think I'd like a solid panel, I like the vented look.

[BABIS]

stainless version available at DMC.eu ;)

[DMCH James]

Justin is incorrect. The reproduction piece that we sell is fiberglass, with the holes. Not sure why Justin thinks it doesn't have the holes.

We also have the stainless version from DMC Europe.

In regards to costs - these are VERY low demand parts, and the fiberglass versions are molded, made and drilled/cut by hand as a result of the low volume sales. The original injection molded part would be even more expensive to reproduce with tooling factored in.

[painterdave72]

its made of fibreglass.. and it looks just like the original cept its much stiffer.. the reason i heard it cost so much is they had to cut each slot with a dremel or something like that..

[jawn101]

Justin is incorrect. The reproduction piece that we sell is fiberglass, with the holes. Not sure why Justin thinks it doesn't have the holes.

We also have the stainless version from DMC Europe.

In regards to costs - these are VERY low demand parts, and the fiberglass versions are molded, made and drilled/cut by hand as a result of the low volume sales. The original injection molded part would be even more expensive to reproduce with tooling factored in.

Great James, thanks! If they are handmade the price makes sense, and I'm glad to hear they are the same appearance-wise. :)

But that raises another question - almost every one of these I've seen in person has been warped badly. If its a low-volume part in sales, does that mean there's an easy way of fixing mine which I haven't thought of?

[jawn101]

stainless version available at DMC.eu ;)

Thanks! I found it here: http://www.delorean.eu/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=168046&cPath=&osCsid=ae2f45ed8ea46844f6e580f51a239972

James, what do these go for from you?

[Starglider]

Chris at P J Grady Europe can make pretty much any DeLorean part out of stainless, even front/rear fascias and door mirrors, can get expensive though.

[AdmiralSenn]

I have one of the DMCH reproductions and I can confirm that they are exact duplicates of the original.

One word of caution, mine required me to "wallow" the mounting holes slightly side to side to allow the bolts to fit correctly. Not sure if my car is just stupid (it wouldn't be the first time) or if it was a manufacturing mistake. It seemed like the holes were drilled slightly inboard by the same amount on each side. Luckily it's strong enough that I was able to get it to work without compromising it.

[jawn101]

I have one of the DMCH reproductions and I can confirm that they are exact duplicates of the original.

One word of caution, mine required me to "wallow" the mounting holes slightly side to side to allow the bolts to fit correctly. Not sure if my car is just stupid (it wouldn't be the first time) or if it was a manufacturing mistake. It seemed like the holes were drilled slightly inboard by the same amount on each side. Luckily it's strong enough that I was able to get it to work without compromising it.

I did have a bit of trim-to-fit adventure time with the fiberglass reproduction radiator duct, so I wouldn't be terribly surprised if a little was required here too. But honestly if I'm gonna drop this much cash I might go with the stainless one instead! :)

Edit: Anyone have any pictures of the stainless one installed? Or any tips on how I might straighten out my otherwise salvageable OEM one? :)

[jmettee]

Justin is incorrect. The reproduction piece that we sell is fiberglass, with the holes. Not sure why Justin thinks it doesn't have the holes.

We also have the stainless version from DMC Europe.

In regards to costs - these are VERY low demand parts, and the fiberglass versions are molded, made and drilled/cut by hand as a result of the low volume sales. The original injection molded part would be even more expensive to reproduce with tooling factored in.

Sorry James, my bad. I wasn't 100% positive, but I thought a few years ago I saw a reproduction without the holes. Now I wonder if I really saw that or not. Thanks for correcting me & sorry for being wrong on the SS version also. Can I delete my post? :facepalm:

[john 05141]

I have the SS from DMC eu.
My t-panel was warped and it bothered me. The original one in plastic cracked and that is why the T-panel did not sit right. I have attempt to repait the plastic one with fibreglass, but that was just crappy. So I bought the SS version from Ed, but it did not fit 100%. A 2 minute adjustment with a dremel on one of the holes fixed that right up and it fit perfectly.
Only when I closed the louver I did not like the SS looks of it. (personal tase I guess) It comes out pretty hard under the louver so I decided to paint it black so with SEM black it looks very nice, and way much stronger. I must say I am happy with this part.
I never took a picture of the SS looks, but I can with the black painted one. Looks like the plastic version.... The car is not at my home right now but if you like I can take a picture anyway.

Jan

[jawn101]

I have the SS from DMC eu.
My t-panel was warped and it bothered me. The original one in plastic cracked and that is why the T-panel did not sit right. I have attempt to repait the plastic one with fibreglass, but that was just crappy. So I bought the SS version from Ed, but it did not fit 100%. A 2 minute adjustment with a dremel on one of the holes fixed that right up and it fit perfectly.
Only when I closed the louver I did not like the SS looks of it. (personal tase I guess) It comes out pretty hard under the louver so I decided to paint it black so with SEM black it looks very nice, and way much stronger. I must say I am happy with this part.
I never took a picture of the SS looks, but I can with the black painted one. Looks like the plastic version.... The car is not at my home right now but if you like I can take a picture anyway.

Jan

Jan - this is exactly what I am trying to correct. My roof box had lifted in the back and over the years that caused a bit of a rise in the center of the T panel. The plastic hold down screen is also warped and cracked just like yours was. My hope is that a properly stiffened/shaped one will help pull the T panel back into alignment now that the roof box is bolted back down. I'd love some pictures if you could dig them out! :)

Did the stainless one fix your T panel warp?

[mluder]

Jan - this is exactly what I am trying to correct. My roof box had lifted in the back and over the years that caused a bit of a rise in the center of the T panel. The plastic hold down screen is also warped and cracked just like yours was. My hope is that a properly stiffened/shaped one will help pull the T panel back into alignment now that the roof box is bolted back down. I'd love some pictures if you could dig them out! :)

Did the stainless one fix your T panel warp?

I'm also having this problem. I notice if my engine gets warm the screen becomes flexible and starts to deform to the point where if I try to open my louver after a long drive it will bind on the t-panel. Once it cools back down it's fine.

I think the stainless screen might be the answer. I wonder if Josh at DPI has one?

Cheers
Steven

[jawn101]

I'm also having this problem. I notice if my engine gets warm the screen becomes flexible and starts to deform to the point where if I try to open my louver after a long drive it will bind on the t-panel. Once it cools back down it's fine.

I think the stainless screen might be the answer. I wonder if Josh at DPI has one?

Cheers
Steven

Well the DMC Europe one looks really nice, if a little spendy - but now Jan has me thinking about the appearance of it under the louver. The more I think about it the more I think it might be weird not to have the black trim up there.

[mluder]

Well the DMC Europe one looks really nice, if a little spendy - but now Jan has me thinking about the appearance of it under the louver. The more I think about it the more I think it might be weird not to have the black trim up there.

I guess the concern is if the new one doesn't hold up much better or begins to distort with heat. That means the SS one is the way to go. Quite honestly I'd probably paint mine too.

The list of summer projects is growing.

Cheers
Steven

[Sammy]

My rear screen thingie cracked a few years ago and I decided to replace it a while back. I made a phone call to my favorite vendor requesting the fiberglass unit. Julie at DMCMW mentioned to me that they had it in stainless so I decided to go that route instead of the fibreglass part.

The stainless part is expensive but it is well worth the money. If you get the fibreglass part, you might even have to drill a hole in it just to mount the thing. The fiberglass part will not bend.

The stainless part bends and in my case I didn't have to drill any holes to get it to fit. I bent the thing a little bit until I was able to work each screw into place. I never would have been able to do that had I got the fiberglass part.

I'm a happy camper and if I had a second delorean with a broken upper finisher I would replace it with stainless as well.

[jawn101]

My rear screen thingie cracked a few years ago and I decided to replace it a while back. I made a phone call to my favorite vendor requesting the fiberglass unit. Julie at DMCMW mentioned to me that they had it in stainless so I decided to go that route instead of the fibreglass part.

The stainless part is expensive but it is well worth the money. If you get the fibreglass part, you might even have to drill a hole in it just to mount the thing. The fiberglass part will not bend.

The stainless part bends and in my case I didn't have to drill any holes to get it to fit. I bent the thing a little bit until I was able to work each screw into place. I never would have been able to do that had I got the fiberglass part.

I'm a happy camper and if I had a second delorean with a broken upper finisher I would replace it with stainless as well.

Do you have any pictures of it installed? Really curious!

[john 05141]

Sammy might have a picture in it SS apprearance?
My T panel was warped in the middle. I knew this and other D drivers behind me were kind enough to remind me.
I agree that the SS is much stronger to hold the t-panel down. I also recomend this part.

The first picture is taken when I was "about to "buy the car, with the warped T-panel. It had this when I bought the car. the second picture is with the new part, t-panel is how it should be.
At eastern the car will be back home and I can take pictures of the sem-black painted SS version installed.

Jan

[mluder]

Sammy might have a picture in it SS apprearance?
My T panel was warped in the middle. I knew this and other D drivers behind me were kind enough to remind me.
I agree that the SS is much stronger to hold the t-panel down. I also recomend this part.

The first picture is taken when I was "about to "buy the car, with the warped T-panel. It had this when I bought the car. the second picture is with the new part, t-panel is how it should be.
At eastern the car will be back home and I can take pictures of the sem-black painted SS version installed.

Jan

Mine is warped in the exact same spot passenger side about 1/3 of the way in.
I wonder what specific about that area that gets excessive heat?

Cheers
Steven

[Dangermouse]

Aha

Light bulb goes off.

I've never had a finishing plate since I bought the car and thought it was just a decorative item to hide the bolt heads. It is near the bottom of my to-buy list.

I didn't realize it provides a quasi-structural support as well. I'll have to move it up the list as my T panel obviously has that gap too.

[ed uding]

Om this photo you see one we did install yesterday.

Regards Ed Uding
www.delorean.eu

[DMC5180]

Jon,

I installed mine a couple years ago. I also got creative with the attachment screws. The lower edge had ripples in it from the hand forming process. I added some rubber U-channel edge trim which finished it off nicely.

17644 17645 17646

Not to be confused: I also added a larger U-channel to the lower edge of the Louver. It helps hide my 3rd brake light wires.

[Ryan S.]

So expensive ... for such a simple part.

[Domi]

Om this photo you see one we did install yesterday.

Regards Ed Uding
www.delorean.eu

That's looking very good!
Is available without the www.delorean.eu logo?

[ed uding]

yes it is now with out the logo.





That's looking very good!
Is available without the www.delorean.eu logo?

[Domi]

Many thanks for your answer Ed ;)

[DMC5180]

So expensive ... for such a simple part.

Not as simple to make as you think.

[jawn101]

Agreed, this is a complex part to manufacture for sure. I'm still waffling on whether I think it looks good in stainless or not! :) Thanks to all for the photos and links and opinions though, it's given me a lot to think about.

One other question - can you see the SS through the lover when it's closed?

[DMC5180]

One other question - can you see the SS through the lover when it's closed?

I waffled about it too. When I first installed it I wasn't that comfortable about the appearance. After I added the finishing treatments, it seems much more of a refined (factory) look. I can now say, I really like it. Before it was more of a maybe it will grow on me thing.

Yes and No. Standing behind it's not visible. You have to crouch down pretty low just to see under the top louver. I would say Maybe If the guy behind you is in a another Delorean with low visual perspective. Also because I added the Edge trims I can only see a SS slit of about 1/4 inch along the span. Without the trims you could see about 1" of it.

[Spittybug]

I made my own out of angled aluminum. Yes, it's a little short. Yes, if I had a french wheel I would put a bit of a bow in it. Yes, the picture is fuzzy. Yes, it was <$10 and does the job.

[SS Spoiler]

? English Wheel? You can put a slight curve in it with hammering along one edge, will strech the metal and give a gentle bow to it.

[DMC5180]

? English Wheel? You can put a slight curve in it with hammering along one edge, will strech the metal and give a gentle bow to it.

Stretching the longer vertical leg will tend to bow the ends UP not down. Stretching the upper short leg will bow the ends forward, not down.

The ARC across the T-panel can really only be made by Shrinking the lower edged of vertical leg of the aluminum angle. Sheet metal fabricators use a bench mounted tool known as a shrinker/stretcher to form angle to curved shapes. It grabs the metal and either pulls or pushes the material in the desired direction to create the desired effect. I have one at work.

[Spittybug]

:hysterical:
? English Wheel? You can put a slight curve in it with hammering along one edge, will strech the metal and give a gentle bow to it.

Must have been a Freudian slip! My internal heritage duking it out... I might just try hammering.

[Dangermouse]

Owen, how does the T panel attach to this?

Does anyone have a pic of the back side of this plate to show how the T panel attaches?

[DrJeff]

Does anyone have a pic of the back side of this plate to show how the T panel attaches?

Two pictures of the T panel and how it 'hangs on' to the finisher. This is visible from the engine bay, that is the tabs are visible just by opening the louver.

1766917670

[Dangermouse]

Thanks.

So that's what those tabs are for.

Owens use of angled AL makes sense now.

[Sammy]

Does anyone have a pic of the back side of this plate to show how the T panel attaches?

I'll try to take some pictures if the sun is still up when I get home this evening.

[SS Spoiler]

Sorry, I thought it was a flat strip of alum.

[Ryan S.]

I made my own out of angled aluminum. Yes, it's a little short. Yes, if I had a french wheel I would put a bit of a bow in it. Yes, the picture is fuzzy. Yes, it was <$10 and does the job.
Owen,
Nice work!!! I like it. Especially <$10.
Would you mind sharing how you made that? Not having a bow might work better for those cars with a lifted roof issue.
Thanks

[Sammy]

I still didn't make it home before dark so I decided to snap some pictures while I was at the gas station. Enjoy.