Engine Cover Latch Hook Repair

[LordFly]

Anyone have any suggestions on fixing this? Clearly the PO tried to glue it back in with something, but it didn't work. Is there a recommended product to use? I'd like it to stay in there there time.

17634

[jawn101]

Anyone have any suggestions on fixing this? Clearly the PO tried to glue it back in with something, but it didn't work. Is there a recommended product to use? I'd like it to stay in there there time.

17634

I bet most of us have that same epoxy mess in that hole. Best way to fix it is to re-fiberglass...

[Michael]

You might try running a needle file in the hole to clean out the epoxy mess and rough it up a little. Then use JB Weld.

[Kenny_Z]

Mine has a threaded tube in there. There's the hook on the bottom and a hexbolt through the top. Is that not a standard installation?

[AugustneverEnds]

Mine has a threaded tube in there. There's the hook on the bottom and a hexbolt through the top. Is that not a standard installation?

+1

[Jonathan]

+1 Threaded collar.

Collar is not self-tapping, so the hole gets drilled appropriately in the engine cover, then snug the collar into place. Then your hook threads into the inside threads of the collar.

Mine was a bit loose even after the above, so I put a nut on the top and bottom to tighten it up. The top nut is on top of the engine cover, so yes, not exactly helping the security part if someone came along with a wrench and loosened it off to then lift the cover, but that wasn't a big issue for me.

-------

Maybe you might consider a 17082 thread to log your progress?

Funny on the cave art search soon after getting your car. I did the same, but that had mostly to do with not getting door keys for it, so I was looking for the key code.

[Rich]

Mine has a threaded tube in there. There's the hook on the bottom and a hexbolt through the top. Is that not a standard installation?

Hexbolt through the top of the engine cover? The latch hook bolt is blind into the cover, not through it, or so I thought. But, then I've never looked beneath the plastic cover between the louver latch u-bolt legs. Maybe there is a thru hole?

Here are pics of what I take to be a standard fitment on an early D with perhaps some extra adhesive. It came this way to us via the Calif. QAC. Still works fine.

17641 17640

[Kenny_Z]

Mine goes all the way through but it's possible that's a PO change.

http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delorean/Projects/cover12.jpg

[LordFly]

You might try running a needle file in the hole to clean out the epoxy mess and rough it up a little. Then use JB Weld.

This sounds like a good fix. I've never actually used JB weld on anything before, but I hear good things. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

[Michael]

This sounds like a good fix. I've never actually used JB weld on anything before, but I hear good things. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Mine came loose as well and I used JB to fix it with. Since it's not under too much tension I didn't think twice about it not holding. That was about 4 years ago and still holding strong.

Just leave the cover up while it sets(24 hours for the original). When closed it's under tension. You will want to unplug the cover switch for the engine light too.

[Michael]

This sounds like a good fix. I've never actually used JB weld on anything before, but I hear good things. I'll give it a shot tomorrow.

Mine came loose as well and I used JB to fix it with. Since it's not under too much tension I didn't think twice about it not holding. That was about 4 years ago and still holding strong.

Just leave the cover up while it sets(24 hours for the original). When closed it's under tension. You will want to rest the cover on a support to push the latch up and keep it in place while the epoxy sets and unplug the cover switch for the engine light too if the cover rests too high that it triggers the light.

[LordFly]

You will want to rest the cover on a support to push the latch up and keep it in place while the epoxy sets

Definitely. I think something is wrong with my cover, if I rest it on it's little support, I'm afraid it's going to break, so I just hold it. Wish that thing had struts too :(

[Jonathan]

Definitely. I think something is wrong with my cover, if I rest it on it's little support, I'm afraid it's going to break, so I just hold it. Wish that thing had struts too :(

It could be normal. The engine cover stay supports the cover in the middle and it tends to look like it is bending a bit when you take your hands away. Try to get a look at another owner's car to compare, or have someone come see yours to give you an opinion. Or video tape yours and post it here. Prop it up with a stick for the time being until you know if it makes you feel better. No sense breaking anything additional.

[David T]

Any good 2 part epoxy will work. J B weld is good. You MUST remove any previous glue to get a strong repair. Otherwise the new epoxy is just sticking to the old glue and who knows how strong it is or how well it is attached. Give it at least 24 hours to cure, more if it is cold before putting any stress on it. Before locking the cover make sure the latch is working and adjust the hook so it is loose and then tighten it up a little at a time till you have the cover where you want with minimal stress on the hook. You may have to retap the hole after the glue dries to clean it out.
David Teitelbaum

[LordFly]

I fixed it here in my 17082 Thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6615-17082-Repairs-Recommendations-Maintenance-etc&p=96075&viewfull=1#post96075).

[DeLorean03]

I called Dave at DMCMW, and he sent me a new threaded collar along with the latch (couldn't find mine at the time). I don't see the threaded collar right there on the website, but you can get them from DMCMW if needed.

The one that he sent me is just right. Basically, I am going to need to use a deadblow hammer or a rubber mallet to gently tap it back into the hole. Then the latch will go back into place with an installed locking nut on it and "Bob's your uncle" so to speak.

Here's a picture of the latch and threaded collar - the hexnut is from my own hardware stash and is not from DMCMW:

17689

[Jonathan]

I called Dave at DMCMW, and he sent me a new threaded collar along with the latch (couldn't find mine at the time). I don't see the threaded collar right there on the website, but you can get them from DMCMW if needed.

The one that he sent me is just right. Basically, I am going to need to use a deadblow hammer or a rubber mallet to gently tap it back into the hole. Then the latch will go back into place with an installed locking nut on it and "Bob's your uncle" so to speak.

One word of caution when putting the collar in. Don't force it. If you screw it in, you likely need to predrill the hole as they are not self tapping. Not sure about the tapping it in with a hammer idea.

Mine ended up like this when I got a little too gungho with it. I figured out a way to make it work still, but it's not very pretty.

17690

[DMC5180]

I called Dave at DMCMW, and he sent me a new threaded collar along with the latch (couldn't find mine at the time). I don't see the threaded collar right there on the website, but you can get them from DMCMW if needed.

The one that he sent me is just right. Basically, I am going to need to use a deadblow hammer or a rubber mallet to gently tap it back into the hole. Then the latch will go back into place with an installed locking nut on it and "Bob's your uncle" so to speak.

Here's a picture of the latch and threaded collar - the hexnut is from my own hardware stash and is not from DMCMW:

17689

It looks as thought the threaded insert has external threads too. You should be able to screw it into the hole rather than tapping with a hammer. Use the jam nut on the Hook side to lock the insert then screw the whole thing into the cover. Loosen the jam nut and adjust if needed.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It looks as thought the threaded insert has external threads too. You should be able to screw it into the hole rather than tapping with a hammer. Use the jam nut on the Hook side to lock the insert then screw the whole thing into the cover. Loosen the jam nut and adjust if needed.

Same type of inserts are in the license plate frame where the hold downs hold the plate in the rear plastic.

[DMC5180]

Same type of inserts are in the license plate frame where the hold downs hold the plate in the rear plastic.

That's a good reminder thanks. My center one is missing. The OE inserts were knurled. The DMCMW replacement is threaded. Looks like something source from Mcmaster-Carr that works.

[Nicholas R]

It looks as thought the threaded insert has external threads too. You should be able to screw it into the hole rather than tapping with a hammer. Use the jam nut on the Hook side to lock the insert then screw the whole thing into the cover. Loosen the jam nut and adjust if needed.

I installed this exact same collar back in 2011. I actually ran a tap of the same thread pitch as the collar into the fiberglass before driving the collar in. It installed perfectly and has been rock solid ever since.

If it has threads, the hole should be tapped. Hammering or forcing it in is just going to cause damage.

[DeLorean03]

So I installed the threaded collar and the striker latch pin. Everything went great, and then I realized that when I pulled the latch handle, the engine cover did not "pop up". I was able to get the engine cover unlocked. I then got inside the rear fascia and cleaned up the engine cover lock/latch assembly with penetrant spray, wiped it all off, and then put 3-in-1 oil on any moving parts where 2 parts made friction. At that point, I re-assembled the unit and put everything back in place and locked out into place.

My thoughts are this unit works with constant tension on the striker latch pin, then when the latch handle is pulled, the latch opens, the tension is released and the engine cover "pops up." So, that's where I'm at. I have removed the latch striker pin until I understand how this works so I don't have to go through the trouble I did to open the lower engine cover again.

Should the striker latch pin be as short as possible to ensure constant tension on it?

The wire that connects the latch handle to the lock/latch assembly is nice and smooth, all parts of the lock/latch assembly have been cleaned with penetrant spray and lubed with 3-in-1 oil, the two locking nuts near the clevis are nice and tight, and when the latch handle is pulled the latch opens completely and fully to allow the striker latch pin to clear the latch and should be able to open freely. The problem is I don't "have two of me" to both pull the latch handle and open the engine cover at the same time ..... ._.

Thoughts on what I should try next?

[jawn101]

So I installed the threaded collar and the striker latch pin. Everything went great, and then I realized that when I pulled the latch handle, the engine cover did not "pop up". I was able to get the engine cover unlocked. I then got inside the rear fascia and cleaned up the engine cover lock/latch assembly with penetrant spray, wiped it all off, and then put 3-in-1 oil on any moving parts where 2 parts made friction. At that point, I re-assembled the unit and put everything back in place and locked out into place.

My thoughts are this unit works with constant tension on the striker latch pin, then when the latch handle is pulled, the latch opens, the tension is released and the engine cover "pops up." So, that's where I'm at. I have removed the latch striker pin until I understand how this works so I don't have to go through the trouble I did to open the lower engine cover again.

Should the striker latch pin be as short as possible to ensure constant tension on it?

The wire that connects the latch handle to the lock/latch assembly is nice and smooth, all parts of the lock/latch assembly have been cleaned with penetrant spray and lubed with 3-in-1 oil, the two locking nuts near the clevis are nice and tight, and when the latch handle is pulled the latch opens completely and fully to allow the striker latch pin to clear the latch and should be able to open freely. The problem is I don't "have two of me" to both pull the latch handle and open the engine cover at the same time ..... ._.

Thoughts on what I should try next?

Try adjusting the bump stops on the lower engine cover to put a little more upward pressure on it when it's latched in place.

[Nicholas R]

So I installed the threaded collar and the striker latch pin. Everything went great, and then I realized that when I pulled the latch handle, the engine cover did not "pop up". I was able to get the engine cover unlocked. I then got inside the rear fascia and cleaned up the engine cover lock/latch assembly with penetrant spray, wiped it all off, and then put 3-in-1 oil on any moving parts where 2 parts made friction. At that point, I re-assembled the unit and put everything back in place and locked out into place.

My thoughts are this unit works with constant tension on the striker latch pin, then when the latch handle is pulled, the latch opens, the tension is released and the engine cover "pops up." So, that's where I'm at. I have removed the latch striker pin until I understand how this works so I don't have to go through the trouble I did to open the lower engine cover again.

Should the striker latch pin be as short as possible to ensure constant tension on it?

The wire that connects the latch handle to the lock/latch assembly is nice and smooth, all parts of the lock/latch assembly have been cleaned with penetrant spray and lubed with 3-in-1 oil, the two locking nuts near the clevis are nice and tight, and when the latch handle is pulled the latch opens completely and fully to allow the striker latch pin to clear the latch and should be able to open freely. The problem is I don't "have two of me" to both pull the latch handle and open the engine cover at the same time ..... ._.

Thoughts on what I should try next?

The fiberglass should not have to be under load in order to pop the latch. The latch mechanism should be able to pop simply by being triggered. Do you know if you have the early mechanism or the late one? My car had the early one and I searched for years to find the late one because it's so much better. Unfortunately the late style is no longer available so if you want one, someone has to be parting out a car. The early one is very wimpy; I had to add extra stronger springs to mine to make it work. The later style is clearly modeled after the trunk latch mechanism as it is a mirror image of it. It has the dual mechanism that unlocks, then raises the cover. The later latches usually have no issue popping the cover. I dont know where the VIN cutoff is though.

I actually replaced this at Kens about a month ago (it was the week after I got caught in the snow and left my car there!).

For reference I took photos of both latches:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/EFBA3919-F3CA-4C65-AD9D-9091A247A65F-17410-000014F9DB3E7BC0.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/6D9CB912-0DB1-466A-BEF8-2F34C8E5FB71-17410-000014F9D42B41D5.jpg?t=1364352564

The later style is certainly more effective, but either way, there should be no need for tension on the striker for the latch to open. The springs on the mechanism should be enough. If the mechanism isn't doing it then you just need stronger springs.

In the picture above^ the early style latch has 3 springs on it. The rusted spring is an original spring. The silver spring actually has another original rusty spring inside of it also applying force. I remember I could not find a spring that was strong enough and short enough, so I bought the strongest spring I could that would fit around the original, and cut it down and bent it so it would fit.

[jawn101]

The fiberglass should not have to be under load in order to pop the latch. The latch mechanism should be able to pop simply by being triggered. Do you know if you have the early mechanism or the late one? My car had the early one and I searched for years to find the late one because it's so much better. Unfortunately the late style is no longer available so if you want one, someone has to be parting out a car. The early one is very wimpy; I had to add extra stronger springs to mine to make it work. The later style is clearly modeled after the trunk latch mechanism as it is a mirror image of it. It has the dual mechanism that unlocks, then raises the cover. The later latches usually have no issue popping the cover. I dont know where the VIN cutoff is though.

I actually replaced this at Kens about a month ago (it was the week after I got caught in the snow and left my car there!).

For reference I took photos of both latches:

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/EFBA3919-F3CA-4C65-AD9D-9091A247A65F-17410-000014F9DB3E7BC0.jpg

http://i565.photobucket.com/albums/ss94/NicholasRoedl/6D9CB912-0DB1-466A-BEF8-2F34C8E5FB71-17410-000014F9D42B41D5.jpg?t=1364352564

The later style is certainly more effective, but either way, there should be no need for tension on the striker for the latch to open. The springs on the mechanism should be enough. If the mechanism isn't doing it then you just need stronger springs.

Aha. I had no idea there were two versions of this latch. I definitely have the early one and it's definitely wimpy. That other one looks way more robust for sure. Now I'm going to take mine back out and investigate the springs.

[mluder]

Could also be an issue with the rear fascia rubbing against the lower engine cover. Mine is after I reassemble last summer. I was so intent on minimizing the lines along the rear quarter panels that I forgot the engine cover needed a gap. Now when I pop the cover, it doesn't pop and I have to help it.

Cheers
Steve

[DeLorean03]

Hey Nick,

I have the later one, thank God.

The main problem I have is my engine cover DOES push against the rear fascia. I am going to have to remove the lover engine cover, elongate the holes where the cover attaches to the rest of the car, push the engine cover a bit more towards the rear glass, and then it should work great.

Definitely appreciate such a thorough writeup!

[mluder]

Hey Nick,

I have the later one, thank God.

The main problem I have is my engine cover DOES push against the rear fascia. I am going to have to remove the lover engine cover, elongate the holes where the cover attaches to the rest of the car, push the engine cover a bit more towards the rear glass, and then it should work great.

Definitely appreciate such a thorough writeup!

You could also re-position the rear fascia. It may in fact be too tight. A 3-5 mm gap between the rear quarter panel and the fascia is acceptable. If you really want actual numbers search the forum here. Somewhere I ran across the factory tolerances for panel joints. You might find your fascia is simply too tight to the quarters. If so, backing it off might remove the rubbing on the lower cover. Remember the lower engine cover also requires clearance at the back near the rear window so elongating the holes and moving the cover back may make it bind there. Check the fit back there too and see if it looks excessively forward.

Cheers
Steven

[DeLorean03]

Hey Steven,

Yeah, there's plenty of room for the lower engine cover to move forward. It's funny - there never used to be an issue with the engine cover hitting the rear fascia. As silly as this sounds, I'm wondering if the cold got to the car and parts sorta "moved closer together."

Either way,I am extremely pleased with the spacing on my rear fascia, so I would prefer to move the cover first. It definitely has some wiggle room up front towards the rear window.

[DeLorean03]

All right... so I have clearance at both the front and the rear of the engine cover.

Every now and then, the striker pin will pop up high enough that it will clear the latch, and I can open the engine cover. More often than not - a good 8 out of 10 times - the engine cover remains locked.

I would assume now that the spring that controls the latch is just old, worn out, and needs to be replaced.

I have sprayed penetrant spray over all areas that create friction in the latch/lock mechanism. I have put 3-in-1 oil over all those areas too. The only two areas I can think of to address now are the spring and the length linkages where the clevis pin is located.

Thoughts everyone? Man, who knew something so little could be such a big problem (partial BTTF 3 reference).

[Jacko]

I had the issue of the louver latch rubbing the rear fascia (which was newly painted). The problem was solved when I replaced both the right and left support buffers. The old ones had lost their 'spring'. Part numbers 108720 and 108721.

[jawn101]

So call me naive, but where would I find replacement springs for my newly-discovered-to-be-the-crappy-kind-of latch? :) Is that something I can just wander into Ace and find in drawers on the wall? Never looked before.

[DeLorean03]

So call me naive, but where would I find replacement springs for my newly-discovered-to-be-the-crappy-kind-of latch? :) Is that something I can just wander into Ace and find in drawers on the wall? Never looked before.

I went to a hardware store and picked up a LOT of springs. Prolly over 20 to experiment with (:.