General 17082 - Repairs, Recommendations, Maintenance, etc. [Archive] - DMCTalk Forum

LordFly

03-23-2013, 11:51 PM

I've decided to try and keep a somewhat updated thread about my car specifically. I'm still pretty new to most of this stuff, so others might find it entertaining.

I have a brake light out, so to get ready for my safety check, I was going to replace it. I pulled out the circuit board and it looked pretty corroded. My plan is to clean it up and smear it with a thin layer of dielectric grease to keep it from corroding in the future. I figured I might as well do both, but when I pulled the other one, I found this....

17659

DMC lists the part for a fairly reasonable $27.35, Part Number 108361 (http://store.delorean.com/p-6930-reflector-tail-light.aspx). Looks kinda orange in the picture.... I assume that's just bad lighting or something. I'm also thinking of replacing all the bulbs with LED bulbs, but we'll see.

DeLorean03

03-24-2013, 01:18 AM

For LEDs, buy from this guy:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380244724020?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

I replaced all of my tail lights with LEDs from him - even my turn signals. WELL worth it. His prices are EXTREMELY reasonable - $5.00 for a PAIR of 20-LED bulbs. And they light your entire tail light lens.

People here from the DeLorean Club of Ohio that see my car on a regular basis can vouch for it.

Nicholas R

03-24-2013, 01:21 AM

DeLorean03

03-24-2013, 01:26 AM

I did. For the front turn signals, I had a bit of a problem using them in the front. I had to utilize the old "cluster" LEDs like these:

http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/tail-brake-turn/1157-led-bulb-dual-intensity-30-led/159/.

DAMN.....Superbrightleds wants $18 for ONE LED ..... ? Holy crap - talk about the DeLoreanOne of LEDs.

Pair of them from eBay: $5.00

Fluxat88MPH

03-24-2013, 01:28 AM

Did you just buy these bulbs in red, white, and amber for your tail lights? Did you also do the front turn signals? I'm thinking I'm ready to buy them, lol :D

Yes U use the same color as the lens color. The front turn lights are different than the rear.

DeLorean03

03-24-2013, 01:35 AM

The front turn lights are different than the rear.

Other than the front being 1157 and the rear being 1156, how else are they different? It totally threw me off that I had to use cluster LEDs for the front instead of the newer SMD LEDs like I used for the rear.

Fluxat88MPH

03-24-2013, 01:42 AM

Other than the front being 1157 and the rear being 1156, how else are they different? It totally threw me off that I had to use cluster LEDs for the front instead of the newer SMD LEDs like I used
for the rear.

That's what I mean as far as being different. Same LED but different mounting styles 1157 vs 1156. We used two different style LEDs so my rear are identical as the front turn signals other than 1157 & 1156.

Josh

03-24-2013, 02:29 AM

1156 is single filament and 1157 is dual filament. With leds the bulb is the same as mentioned, because instead of having a low voltage and full voltage filament, the led just operates at the lower voltage to give the second filament brightness.

I always recommend these LEDs. I run them on my motorbike (cant really afford to have dim lights for safety reasons) and found they are equivalent to an incandescent. A little costly but they are worth it. Lots of the cheaper LEDs don't aim the light properly which results in a dim appearance; the main downfall of retrofitted LED bulbs.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/230817098823?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEWNX%3AIT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Fluxat88MPH

03-24-2013, 02:52 AM

micmak

03-24-2013, 10:01 AM

Hey Devon, is that an additional DIY solder job running to that that bulb? It’s hard to make out in the pic. Anyway, PJ Grady sells better boards when they are in stock. I needed a set last year, but he had none at the time, so I went with DMC’s. I figured that if it took 30 years for mine to degrade and fail, then the direct replacement ones will be fine for approx 30 more years. Good enough for me! I toyed with LEDs at the time, but I decided to hold off and do some more research first. Technology being what it is, has progressed even in the last few months, and there are LEDs available now that were not around last Summer. I will look into it again. But would you not be better just getting regular incandescents for now and get your lights working properly first? Then you can play around with LEDs later. Just a thought...

......Mike......

LordFly

03-24-2013, 12:11 PM

Hey Devon, is that an additional DIY solder job running to that that bulb?

If definitely looks like it. I don't know why someone chose to do it that way. It would of been much easier (and less ugly), to just solder the socket to the board right where it was riveted. People fix things in weird ways sometimes :eek7: I'll clean it all up and fix it properly. I don't think I need replacements just yet. And I'll hold off on LEDs for now, but at least they wouldn't melt through reflectors ;)

vtdmc

03-24-2013, 05:44 PM

I've decided to try and keep a somewhat updated thread about my car specifically. I'm still pretty new to most of this stuff, so others might find it entertaining.

I have a brake light out, so to get ready for my safety check, I was going to replace it. I pulled out the circuit board and it looked pretty corroded. My plan is to clean it up and smear it with a thin layer of dielectric grease to keep it from corroding in the future. I figured I might as well do both, but when I pulled the other one, I found this....

A minor question from your thread.

I thought the purpose of dieletric grease was to enchance the electrical connectivity between the circuits, it has no bearing on corrosion.

LordFly

03-24-2013, 07:14 PM

I thought the purpose of dieletric grease was to enchance the electrical connectivity between the circuits, it has no bearing on corrosion.

The 4th line on the packaging seems to disagree with you ;)
17671

Nicholas R

03-24-2013, 10:13 PM

Dielectric grease is not conductive. It's purpose is just to keep the connections clean and corrosion free.

LordFly

03-25-2013, 12:51 AM

I got one of the taillight boards all cleaned up. I'm going to solder the sockets to the board as well. I started it, but I need to get out my bigger iron and it's late, so I'll do it tomorrow.
17673

I've also done the engine cover latch hook. The threaded piece soft of came out in 2 pieces. I cleaned out the hole in the engine cover and smeared JB weld all over the inside, then held the two threaded pieces on the hook, JB welded them and stuck the whole thing in the hole. After it had partly set, I carefully unthreaded the hook to be sure I wasn't JB welding it in there.
176741767517676

LordFly

03-25-2013, 01:04 AM

Here's a shot of her outside yesterday while I was wiring up some better lighting in the garage :)

17677

LordFly

03-26-2013, 10:20 PM

I seem to have a monstrously large turn radius.... especially in reverse, if that makes sense. Steering rack issue, or an I just to used to driving a Civic?

Also, my speedometer doesn't work :(

Dangermouse

03-26-2013, 11:24 PM

Lack of power steering combined with low tire pressure, I think you'll find.

Can't do anything about the PS but make sure those fronts are at the right pressure - makes all the difference. I think the manual says 28psi.

LordFly

03-26-2013, 11:47 PM

Very good point. I never did check tire pressure. They don't look low, but that's exactly what it feels like.

DeLorean03

03-27-2013, 03:08 AM

Also, my speedometer doesn't work :(

Take your front driver's wheel off.

In the middle of the hub, you should see a plastic "dust cap." Remove it, and you'll see a wire in the middle of the hub. That is your angle drive wire. Get a drill, and clamp the end of the drill down onto that wire as if you were clamping down on a drill bit that you would normally insert into the tip of the drill. Rev the drill and quickly get to your speedometer.

If you see your speedometer needle move, you know the dust cap was just bad. $15 fix.

Part #18 in this picture: http://store.delorean.com/c-351-5-1-1-speedometer-drive.aspx

mluder

03-27-2013, 03:30 AM

Rev the drill and quickly get to your speedometer.

In reverse... Make sure the drill is in reverse.

Cheers
Steven

LordFly

03-27-2013, 07:59 AM

Good stuff guys, I'll check that this evening when I get home.

What about oil? I don't know when it was last changed, so I'll do it this weekend. I always put Castrol GTX in everything else I do. Any reason I shouldn't use that on the D? And I would assume there are no problems with Fram filters either (number PH7328 ) ?

Dangermouse

03-27-2013, 08:26 AM

GTX should be fine. It's not a high tech engine, though some owners run synthetic. Everyone has their own opinion.

Most folks here us a Bosch filter, which is what the vendors sell.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3007-Bosch-72150-Oil-Filters&highlight=72150

DeLorean03

03-27-2013, 11:27 AM

I use GTX High Mileage with a full bottle of Lucas Oil Stabilizer. I am not a fan of "miracles in a bottle", but I am a fan of what I can see with my own two eyes, and Lucas oil stabilizer is worth its money. 6 quarts of GTX high mileage with the full bottle of Lucas oil stabilizer = happy engine.

As far as a filter, no Fram. Bad. Cross reference the filter off of a 1988 Volvo 760 2.8L V6 - that is our engine (no need for super detailed differences here). Find the oil filter part number for that in the lil book at your auto parts shop, buy it, do your oil change, and "Bob's your uncle."

LordFly

03-27-2013, 12:31 PM

As far as a filter, no Fram. Bad.

What's the problem with the Fram filters?

Patrick C

03-27-2013, 12:59 PM

What's the problem with the Fram filters?

They are absolute garbage in terms of filtering technology.

See:

http://web.archive.org/web/20050204122730/http://www.delorean.com/technical.asp

ccurzio

03-27-2013, 02:47 PM

They are absolute garbage in terms of filtering technology.

See:

http://web.archive.org/web/20050204122730/http://www.delorean.com/technical.asp

Devil's advocate: Fancy shapes don't mean a damn thing unless there's technical information to back up why one is better than the other. I see no such explanation. All I see is "LOOK! ZIGZAGS!"

LordFly

03-27-2013, 03:10 PM

Chris is right. Sure, there is clearly more surface area, but that doesn't say anything about the filter material. I could cram it full of 200 square feet of paper towel folded up like origami cranes, but that doesn't make it better. I'm not saying the other one isn't better, I'm just saying the picture alone doesn't prove anything.

Ron

03-27-2013, 03:13 PM

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?4824-Oilfilters

Post 6

Jonathan

03-27-2013, 03:27 PM

Oil filters from a vendor are good to go in my opinion. You can buy a six pack and they are reasonably priced. You will also get a copper crush washer with each one to put on your drain plug. Have you looked closely at your drain plug? There is some variety out there in what type of tool or adapter you may need to get it off.

A new $7 air filter from a vendor is a good idea while you're in there. See about replacing the missing clips on your filter housing I think I noticed from your original photos.

A new alternator belt is money well spent if yours is old or frayed. I think your A/C compressor one was missing, so skip it if you want. A/C isn't that important at the moment (I don't think it is required for your safety).

You'll likely need to get your speedo working for the safety, depending on your relationship with the shop you're dealing with. Start with the suggestions you got for the dust cap and spinning it as is with your fingers or a drill. Get a helper to watch the speedo or just use a mirror on a stick. All you need to do is see the speedo needle move when you spin, don't worry about by how much.

Good advice on tire air pressure and turning radius. 23 psi fronts and 30 psi rears, or as you like them if you want more in the fronts. You can turn your steering wheel from straight to full left and full right and it is supposed to be a certian number of turns. Can't think what that number is at the moment. No power steering just means the wheel is hard to turn when it is not in motion. Much easier when moving if you give that a try.

How is your car idling? Are you at the point where it fires right up? Did that middle screw of three on the intake turn out to be missing? It will affect the idle if it is out.

Care to post some pictures of your fuse and relay area for us?

LordFly

03-27-2013, 07:50 PM

Were there ever any changes to thing instrument cluster wiring? For the life of me I can not get the left signal indicator to work. The bulb is good, there is voltage at the G/R wire when signaling, but it's like the flexible circuit board thing does not route to the correct wires. My G/R wire is on the extreme left side of the smaller harness, but the flexible circuit board thing goes to the second from the opposite side..... :hmm:

LordFly

03-29-2013, 12:02 AM

What are these wires for? They're in behind the rear driver's side wheel.

17763

LordFly

03-29-2013, 12:15 AM

micmak

03-29-2013, 10:21 AM

I don't think I quite understand this suspension..... The tires have clearance while parked, but not while driving? I'm not too sure how the the distance from the lower strut mount to the tire can change, but quite clearly it does.

17764

Devon, Did you get the original rims and tires with the car in the end? If so, I think I would put them on before driving any substantial distance. Those rims may not properly fit a DeLorean at all. If you don't have them, I wonder if the tire pressure is or was too low on those wheels. That would cause the rubbing that you show in the pic, wouldn't it?

......Mike......

LordFly

03-29-2013, 10:53 AM

Devon, Did you get the original rims and tires with the car in the end?

They're still locked in a storage trailer. I will get them, just not for another month or so. Tire pressure is a good one. I never did check that. I'll do it today.

micmak

03-29-2013, 10:56 AM

Oh, so the PO still has them?

LordFly

03-29-2013, 12:03 PM

Oh, so the PO still has them?

3 of them. I have 1 of the fronts where my spare should be. So I'm hoping he has the spare as well, but he's not 100% sure on that one. They've been locked away forever.

Farrar

03-29-2013, 12:48 PM

Sorry I'm a bit late to this party, but a friend of mine who works in homemade circuit boards says he uses clear nail polish to protect the boards from corrosion once everything is soldered on. That sounds like a less messy option than coating with dielectric grease. And if you ever need to work on the boards in future, you can get the polish off with acetone.

Drawback: it takes a while to dry.

I believe he recommended Sally Hansen "Hard As Nails," but probably any clear polish would work.

Just a thought.

micmak

03-29-2013, 01:03 PM

Farrar

03-29-2013, 01:14 PM

Is that what you use on YOUR nails, Farrar???? :hysterical::rofl:

......Mike......

No, but you're sweet to notice my nails. :blush:

;)

LordFly

03-29-2013, 01:18 PM

Proper tire pressure doesn't seem to be enough. I marked the tires, took it around the block, and it's still rubbing :(

17768

Farrar

03-29-2013, 01:20 PM

Does your car have the rear spacers installed?

Edit: link (http://store.delorean.com/p-7431-adapter-plate.aspx).

Jonathan

03-29-2013, 01:24 PM

What are these wires for? They're in behind the rear driver's side wheel.

17763

Blue and black are going back to the ECU/Lambda box behind the drivers seat.

Black is the O2 sensor. The wire goes from the sensor pretty close to that area right in the side of the exhaust piping, disappears through that hole in the frame you see there, and reappears behind the driver's seat.

#13 here (101069) http://store.delorean.com/c-337-2-3-0-lambda-system-probeecucatalyst.aspx

The blue disappears through a hole/grommet in the firewall and reappears in the ECU box area behind the driver's seat. It should quick connect to another length of wire, which I am not 100% certain on this, but may be #31 (102480) in this diagram: http://store.delorean.com/c-338-2-5-0-motorecumicroswitch.aspx

The thermister/idle speed is a bit of a guess as I have never taken that section of my engine apart, yet my blue wire connects to another wire that I can't seem to trace just by peering in at. Maybe someone else can chime in to confirm.

Jonathan

03-29-2013, 01:31 PM

Proper tire pressure doesn't seem to be enough. I marked the tires, took it around the block, and it's still rubbing :(

17768

The solution is the one you are already aware of and plan to do anyway... put the proper rims back on. No one said the PO purchased a set of rims that fit well in the first place, and judging by what else you found, not all repairs came with a DMC stamp of approval to say the least.

Perhaps slow down a bit on the determination to get it safetied right away, as what I have seen are a number of issues that most shops wouldn't allow it to pass anyway. If you bought it as a car you intended to drive right away, then perhaps this is a bit of a let down. If you bought it as a project, then understand the process of getting everything working (which is what your safety check is more or less telling you) is a long one needing patience.

Get your storage box of wheels and louvres and parts or whatever, and make it right from the beginning. By some miracle if you just barely get it safetied and take it for a drive, you might end up damaging the car or yourself not realizing the condition of things that were left for later. Just my 2 cents. Do whatever you want.

Farrar

03-29-2013, 01:34 PM

What are these wires for? They're in behind the rear driver's side wheel.

17763

Black is hall effect sensor from distributor, I think.
The blue one should go to the Lambda box, I think.

dmc6960

03-29-2013, 02:28 PM

Black is hall effect sensor from distributor, I think.
The blue one should go to the Lambda box, I think.

The black one is from the O2 sensor. The blue one should not be protruding into the wheel well, that fancy rubber grommet should hold it into the hole in the body.

Then plug them in together.

Then watch as your LAMBDA EDU takes over the engine and it probably stops running as well because the previous owner mucked with it. (based off of all the other things you've brought up with this car)

LordFly

03-29-2013, 04:14 PM

judging by what else you found, not all repairs came with a DMC stamp of approval to say the least.

There's an understatement ;)

So far everything required for the safety, I have fixed properly. With he exception of the broken windshield sprayer (zip tied on for now) and the dead speedo (which they didn't notice/call), everything has been repaired properly. Windshield, horn, headlights, indicator lights, brake lights, etc. are all replaced with brand new pieces. Doing a lot of work in a short period of time is not the same as cutting corners. I am currently a set of wheels spacers (or smaller tires) and rear brake pads away from a safety. There are pads about 2 hours from me, which I may go get tomorrow (still undecided), but I'll give the local guys another shot first.

LordFly

03-29-2013, 04:52 PM

The black one is from the O2 sensor. The blue one should not be protruding into the wheel well, that fancy rubber grommet should hold it into the hole in the body.

Then plug them in together.

Then watch as your LAMBDA EDU takes over the engine and it probably stops running as well because the previous owner mucked with it. (based off of all the other things you've brought up with this car)

I'm hoping it will run better. Right now it runs so rich it burns my eyes if I'm in the garage with it (door open). I can barely even stand behind it if it's outside.

jawn101

03-29-2013, 07:59 PM

I'm hoping it will run better. Right now it runs so rich it burns my eyes if I'm in the garage with it (door open). I can barely even stand behind it if it's outside.

If there's that strong of a fuel smell, have you checked if your cat is functional? Is the cat still present?

LordFly

03-29-2013, 08:17 PM

If there's that strong of a fuel smell, have you checked if your cat is functional? Is the cat still present?

Both good questions, can't answer either one just yet. I'll have to get back to you on that.

jawn101

03-29-2013, 08:23 PM

Both good questions, can't answer either one just yet. I'll have to get back to you on that.

Honestly, I don't know how to check if it's functional or not. But you can tell quite easily if it's there! :)

This engine is pretty clean-burning, all things considered. Mine has the very faintest fuel odor in the first 30 sec or so while the O2 sensor warms up, then after that there is no smell at all.

I posted this in an archive thread on K-Jet and still think anyone and everyone with a D still running K-Jet should watch it. I actually found it very interesting if a little dry and old-school. But full of info worth knowing.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4fJAfXYxWk&feature=youtu.be

Edit: forgot this video mentions the use of a rotary valve and idle bypass screws rather than the idle speed motor that our cars have. And it doesn't go into detail about the Lambda probe. And as Ron mentioned, our pivot plate works backwards from the one in the video. But the principles are the same :)

LordFly

03-30-2013, 04:04 PM

Present, yes. Functional, hard to say. But after a little bit of driving, it seems to be running a lot cleaner. Maybe even more so when I plug those blue and black wires together.

She's legally on the road :D
17780

jawn101

03-30-2013, 04:26 PM

Dangermouse

03-30-2013, 06:23 PM

Awesome.

Jonathan

03-30-2013, 06:30 PM

She's legally on the road :D
17780

Beauty Devon!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0XdLheUC7kA

LordFly

03-30-2013, 11:40 PM

Here's a couple of shots of the engine cover. I do not trust it to sit like this. I'm thinking of bracing the lower section where the cracked ribs are. Perhaps some thin sheet aluminum JB welded to the non-visible side of the ribs?

177991780017801

LordFly

03-31-2013, 10:51 PM

I had the drivers door apart today and noticed that the inside door release is sprung in both directions, but for the life of me, I can't figure out what pushing it down is suppose to do..... :hmm:

LordFly

04-01-2013, 03:57 PM

I also assume I should not be able to start the car without the clutch pressed... Bad clutch switch?

jawn101

04-01-2013, 04:08 PM

I also assume I should not be able to start the car without the clutch pressed... Bad clutch switch?

No such thing. It will start as long as it's not in gear. And even then the only thing stopping it will be the transmission, not electrical or mechanical interconnects.

The sprung door handle is probably to return the handle to its rest position....

LordFly

04-01-2013, 05:26 PM

No such thing. It will start as long as it's not in gear. And even then the only thing stopping it will be the transmission, not electrical or mechanical interconnects.

Ahh ok, wasn't sure if clutch switches were a thing in the 80's or not. Thanks :)

LordFly

04-04-2013, 12:24 AM

VENT OUTLET (https://store.delorean.com/p-9891-vent-outlet.aspx) - Wow, $83? Must be running out of these or something. And I need both :(

jawn101

04-04-2013, 12:27 AM

VENT OUTLET (https://store.delorean.com/p-9891-vent-outlet.aspx) - Wow, $83? Must be running out of these or something. And I need both :(

What's wrong with yours? Cosmetic or function? I got a couple take-off parts that were kinda ugly but worked well, and ripped the guts out to fix my broken but nice looking ones. Try asking the folks at MW or NW especially if they have stuff like that before going all-in on the NOS stuff.

Depending what you need I might even be able to help out, I still have some parts left.

dmc6960

04-04-2013, 09:25 AM

VENT OUTLET (https://store.delorean.com/p-9891-vent-outlet.aspx) - Wow, $83? Must be running out of these or something. And I need both :(

That part had been unavailable for a long time. This is a reproduction part. If you consider the costs of making new plastic molds, and the number of individual assembled and moving parts, and the limited market share of this product; its amazing its as cheap as it is. I bought one and installed it last year.

DMCMW Dave

04-04-2013, 09:52 AM

That part had been unavailable for a long time. This is a reproduction part. If you consider the costs of making new plastic molds, and the number of individual assembled and moving parts, and the limited market share of this product; its amazing its as cheap as it is. I bought one and installed it last year.

Jim is right - this is a reproduction part with a bunch of small parts in it. I'm shocked (and thankful) that it came in this cheap.

You guys are spoiled. I just looked up the same (door vent) part for my 2002 BMW 5 series and it is over $100. That's a very common car.

LordFly

04-04-2013, 10:18 AM

Well $83 isn't THAT bad, but compared to The Piece It Sits In (https://store.delorean.com/p-9905-escutcheon-lh.aspx) (which I crushed when I left it hanging and closed the door :wrenchin:), it's relatively expensive.

Jonathan

04-04-2013, 10:50 AM

DeLorean03

04-04-2013, 12:28 PM

Which side escutcheon did you crush?

If it's the passenger side, I feel bad for you .... D:

LordFly

04-04-2013, 01:45 PM

Which side escutcheon did you crush?

Driver side

LordFly

04-05-2013, 01:19 AM

Installed my Parrot Asteroid tonight. I forgot these cars don't have a standard DIN slot, but that's ok, we have tools for that ;) I like the end result though. I think the Parrot has a look to it that is not terribly out of place in a DeLorean. On a related note, if anyone is interested in a stock DMC AM/FM/Casette, let me know.

179151791617917

ALEXAKOS

04-05-2013, 02:30 AM

WOW! The Parrot is a perfect match!! Looks like it was made for the D! Good choice.
I like to have the stock radio but will let you know in a month when mine comes in.

mluder

04-05-2013, 12:16 PM

The Parrot does look nice...

On a related note, if anyone is interested in a stock DMC AM/FM/Casette, let me know.

Does the cassette mechanism work?

Is it a Craig or the later model?

Cheers
Steve

LordFly

04-05-2013, 03:18 PM

The cassette mechanism seems to work. I managed to record the BTTF theme on a tape and play it back, although sound quality was terrible. Not sure if that's a result of the tape, the 30 year old tape deck, or the speakers. The deck just says DMC, which I think is the Craig unit. However, I did cut the plug off of it so that I didn't have to solder the Parrot connections directly do the factory wiring harness. I'll take some pics when I get home tonight in case anyone is interested.

Domi

04-05-2013, 03:32 PM

Great work with the Parrot radio, which is great.
if your radio is written DMC, I think it is the ASI radio.

mluder

04-05-2013, 04:53 PM

Great work with the Parrot radio, which is great.
if your radio is written DMC, I think it is the ASI radio.

Probably - Judging by your VIN you have a later car. Only the '81s came with the Craig if i recall correctly.

Cheers
Steve

refugeefromcalif

04-05-2013, 06:33 PM

For reference, Here's a pic of the Craig that's in 6599.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=13850&d=1349304824

George

micmak

04-05-2013, 10:37 PM

If I may chime in on Devon’s behalf, I would say that he very, very, very likely has an ASI radio. Sooo very likely! I have 17097 and Mike, our club’s organizer has 17076. We both have ASI’s. Devon is in between us with 17082 which means that he has a Canadian issue car as we have. The likelihood of him having a Craig is extremely remote. It is possible that his car was manufactured earlier and that it has a Craig and that it was put into the line from an earlier build and given a 17000 series vin, but it is very unlikely because of all the similarities with our cars that he has talked about already. It's a safe bet that he has an ASI.

......Mike......

LordFly

04-05-2013, 11:11 PM

Mike is correct, it's an ASI. My bad, it's been a long week and I took a guess. I snapped a couple of pictures.

The Bad:
- I cut the plug off to make a harness for the Parrot
- The little plastic cover of the display is cracked in half
- The green light on the 3rd radio preset from the left doesn't work (so when you pick that station no light comes on)

The Good:
- It seems to work :)
- Volume, fader, balance, terrble, bass, tuner, etc, etc all do what they should
- Tape mechanism flips sides (at least I assume that's what the loud clunking is)
- Speakers make noise, at least enough for me to listen to the radio for a few days until my Parrot came in

The Unknown:
- Sound quality seemed poor, but I can't say for sure that was the radio itself or just the poor reception of the radio stations. My power antenna is busted off, so it may be that or it may be the radio
- Plays tapes, but again, quality is poor, but that may be my 15 year old tape that has been re-recorded over 75 times (I only tried 1 as I have a limited supply of tapes), or maybe it just needs a cleaning
- Dimmer input, not sure if it works because my dimmer knob doesn't actually work

A part of me wants to keep it, just for the sake of keeping it, but I know I will never install it again. And I don't intend to sell the car until after I die, so it doesn't do me much good for resale value. If anyone is interested, make me an (somewhat reasonable) offer. I can power it up and take more pictures if anyone is seriously interested and would like to see.

179391794017941

jawn101

04-05-2013, 11:35 PM

- I cut the plug off to make a harness for the Parrot

Wait... did you adapt the wiring so that the speakers don't share a common ground? Or was the ASI wired differently from the Craig, without common speaker grounds?

Because if you left a common speaker ground, you're really going to want to fix that. Modern head units are not designed to work that way.

DrJeff

04-05-2013, 11:42 PM

Wait... did you adapt the wiring so that the speakers don't share a common ground? Or was the ASI wired differently from the Craig, without common speaker grounds?...

My ASI was wired with common speaker grounds with the join just prior to the connector. But I also had two connector blocks. I assumed one connector connector might have been for the Craig setup and then a short bundle between the two connectors that re-positioned wired for the connections from the ASI. I don't know if this was common, but I cut it all out anyways.

LordFly

04-06-2013, 01:33 AM

Wait... did you adapt the wiring so that the speakers don't share a common ground? Or was the ASI wired differently from the Craig, without common speaker grounds?

The head unit side shared a common ground, the harness side did not. I cut the harness side at the jumper and used all 8 wires individually, no common wires. I'd actually never seen speakers share a common before. I was a little confused upon seeing that for the first time. This car is just full of surprises like that :)

jawn101

04-06-2013, 01:43 AM

Ok, cool! :)

LordFly

04-07-2013, 07:52 PM

So it seems that everything is physically connected for my speedo, just not working. I know the speedo it self works. when I had the binicle out, I spun the cable and it moves. I assume bad angle driver, but could it possibly be something between angle driver and interior cable?

18010

Jonathan

04-07-2013, 08:09 PM

Is the dust cap there? Does the inside hole looked rounded at all, or still square?

LordFly

04-07-2013, 10:31 PM

Not sure, guess I'll check that tomorrow. Accessible by taking the wheel off?

Jonathan

04-07-2013, 11:10 PM

Yes. It's the round yellow/clear plastic part in the centre of the hub here in this photo. If it isn't in there doing what it is supposed to, the speedo won't do what it is supposed to. Basically the plastic cap spins as the wheel spins, and on the inside of the cap is a square hole which your angle drive cable protrudes through and inserts into. As the cap spins, the cable spins. While the angle drive housing does not spin, the cable in it does, and then the gears turn that rotation on a right angle and out another spot which connects to your lower speedo cable. It feeds in through the wall of the car to the driver's footwell and up into the bottom of the service/lambda counter. The service counter spins inside and counts to 30,000 miles and then turns a light on in your dash telling you to replace your O2 sensor. The top of the service counter is where the upper speedo cable connects and then ends at the back of the speedo gauge in the instrument cluster. If any of the pieces in this far too complicated chain aren't doing what they need to, no speedo needle movement. Note: service counter guts can be taken out if desired and a one piece cable could potentially be put in. But if there is no dust cap, then no dice on knowing your speed nor miles travelled.

18013

DeLorean03

04-08-2013, 12:59 AM

^^^^^^^^ Everything he said is great. Just put a drill on your angle drive cable, and power the drill lightly in a counterclockwise motion. You should see your speedometer needle move.

LordFly

04-10-2013, 07:07 PM

Fresh 6 pack of plutonium installed :D Also put on new battery terminals and replaced the hardware with stainless. One of the perks of working at a place that builds stainless steel equipment :yesss:

18061

Didn't realize how dirty the battery compartment was until the flash went off. I'll clean it in the near future when I find a suitable replacement battery strap.

LordFly

04-11-2013, 12:58 AM

The inside of my tank looks like a shot of the night sky, it's full of stars. Must be cleaned out thoroughly!
18073

What a mess! I will clean this all up and fix it for now and do a swap to the new one in the winter.
18069

DO NOT DO THIS!!! I call it The Gas Vac. My little shop vac sucks the air out of a jerrycan, the vacuum in the jerrycan sucks the last little bit of gas (and bits of crap) out of the tank. Gas fumes are highly flammable, so unless you want to blow up your shop vac, light your car on fire and burn your house down, use a hand pump!
18070

Fuel pump and fuel level sender terminals all cleaned up.
1807218071

ALEXAKOS

04-11-2013, 03:14 AM

Lovely "walk along" posts Lord!!!!!
That battery looks sweet.
Looking forward to more of your work process.

I will be following your work soon;)

LordFly

04-12-2013, 08:06 AM

A couple of shots with the tank after it had a night to dry out.
1810318104

After some vacuuming and a through wipe-down of the inside
18105

Fuel baffle/pickup after being cleaned (it was full of crap as well)
18106

Fuel baffle/pickup installed back in the tank. I feel bad for the poor bastard in Ireland who had that as a job. Lucky for him it was probably done before the tank was installed in the car, so it wouldn't of been as bad.
18107

I should have everything back together and running fresh gas tomorrow afternoon :)

LordFly

04-14-2013, 04:38 PM

My friend does vinyl work so I did the lettering and had her cut it out of a brushed metal vinyl. It's a surprisingly close match to the actual stainless :)

182061820518207

Domi

04-14-2013, 05:00 PM

Looking good :wink:

LordFly

04-14-2013, 05:04 PM

I think my e-brake bracket has seen better days. Anyone got a spare? I may just bend up a new one at work out of stainless. It might be a bit of a guessing game though, since at least one section of mine seems to be missing.

18208

LordFly

04-14-2013, 06:38 PM

This is as high as my temp gauge gets. Is that normal? I'm used to modern cars where the needle normally sits in the middle. But if there's one thing I've learned, a DeLorean is not normal.

18214

Farrar

04-14-2013, 06:40 PM

Mine gets just above that tick before the cooling fans come on.

jawn101

04-14-2013, 07:00 PM

Mine gets just above that tick before the cooling fans come on.

Don't forget his is a Canadian/metric dash - I've no experience with the calibration on those but that looks just about right if the numbers are actually accurate.

LordFly

04-14-2013, 09:52 PM

Don't forget his is a Canadian/metric dash - I've no experience with the calibration on those but that looks just about right if the numbers are actually accurate.

I would assume needle position is the same. I doubt it was recalibrated in anyway. If it had been, I'm sure they wouldn't of picked 38, 104 and 126. Which conveniently convert to 100, 220 and 260.

But it's still cool here. Maybe in the summer it'll be higher. I don't think my fans have ever kicked in yet.

jawn101

04-14-2013, 09:59 PM

Yeah, I saw that the numbers work out the same when I did the conversions - in my head, though.. Lol

Have you jumpered your otterstat to make sure the fans actually work? Is the otterstat pointing (electrical connections) down or up?

Jonathan

04-14-2013, 10:05 PM

I don't think my fans have ever kicked in yet.

+1 on what Jon said. Better to find out if they will come on or not while it is parked in your garage and not while in line to get gas on a hot and humid day in August.

You can jumper the otterstat or turn the A/C on. The A/C trick will only work if you have a freon pressure above the low cut off switch. That can be bypassed too if need be for testing.

LordFly

04-15-2013, 12:20 AM

Have you jumpered your otterstat to make sure the fans actually work? Is the otterstat pointing (electrical connections) down or up?

Good question, no idea. I will have to check and test this.

+1 on what Jon said. Better to find out if they will come on or not while it is parked in your garage and not while in line to get gas on a hot and humid day in August.

You can jumper the otterstat or turn the A/C on. The A/C trick will only work if you have a freon pressure above the low cut off switch. That can be bypassed too if need be for testing.

Testing the A/C is pointless at the moment. I'm missing the belt and the bracket the tensioner pulleys mount to. It's on the massive list of things I need to order.:reading:

jawn101

04-15-2013, 12:29 AM

Good question, no idea. I will have to check and test this.

Testing the A/C is pointless at the moment. I'm missing the belt and the bracket the tensioner pulleys mount to. It's on the massive list of things I need to order.:reading:

That's a bummer about the a/c bracket but the test is still valid. If you energize the circuit the fans should come on regardless of engine temp. Provided that the low pressure switch hasn't deactivated the whole thing due to lack of refrigerant, that is.

LordFly

04-15-2013, 12:32 AM

If you energize the circuit the fans should come on regardless of engine temp. Provided that the low pressure switch hasn't deactivated the whole thing due to lack of refrigerant, that is.

I guess that's true. Althought I can't vouch for pressure in the system either. I suppose I can always jump that switch as well.

LordFly

04-16-2013, 01:08 AM

Finally inspected my speedo issue today, which was a bitch because the wheel studs on the front were too long for the stupid aftermarket lugs the PO used. I managed to get 7 of them, but I had to weld the tool to the last lug to get it off. After that I cut the studs down so they didn't stick out right to the end of the lugs. I'll replace both the studs and the lugs when I get the correct wheels. Anyways, both the dust cap and angle drive are fine. I even took the angle drive out and cleaned it all up and re-greased it. The problem was the cable from the angle drive to the lambda counter. Looks like it had gotten water in it, rusted solid, then twisted off when the car came out of storage at some point. So a new One Of These (http://store.delorean.com/p-7323-speedo-cable-lower-26.aspx) and I should be up and running again.

182321823318231

ALEXAKOS

04-16-2013, 02:46 AM

Love this thread!
Nice explanations, to the point images and DIY guides.
Way to go Devon.

Dangermouse

04-16-2013, 08:31 AM

My friend does vinyl work so I did the lettering and had her cut it out of a brushed metal vinyl. It's a surprisingly close match to the actual stainless :)

182061820518207

That is really nice

LordFly

04-16-2013, 10:16 AM

That is really nice

Thanks. I'm planning to do the numbers in a proper font as well, should anyone want their VIN cut of the same vinyl. But that'll be a few weeks at least. Too many important mechanical things to do to the D before fun stuff like that.

dmc6960

04-16-2013, 04:59 PM

The problem was the cable from the angle drive to the lambda counter. Looks like it had gotten water in it, rusted solid, then twisted off when the car came out of storage at some point. So a new One Of These (http://store.delorean.com/p-7323-speedo-cable-lower-26.aspx) and I should be up and running again.

18232

Since the lower cable had seized up, and the angle drive didn't break, it appears your dustcap took the force. I can see signs of rounding off in the square hole. I'd suggest a new one of these as well as a new lower cable. It may spin the unloaded angle drive right now in tests, but it'll probably start slipping once under the full load of the whole speedometer drive at 100km/h.

LordFly

04-17-2013, 12:38 AM

Since the lower cable had seized up, and the angle drive didn't break, it appears your dustcap took the force. I can see signs of rounding off in the square hole. I'd suggest a new one of these as well as a new lower cable. It may spin the unloaded angle drive right now in tests, but it'll probably start slipping once under the full load of the whole speedometer drive at 100km/h.

That's what Epoxy is for ;) Plus if I'd added it to the order I just put it, I'll have been over $600 :ohcrap: But at least I'll have lots to do this weekend :)

jawn101

04-17-2013, 12:42 AM

That's what Epoxy is for ;) Plus if I'd added it to the order I just put it, I'll have been over $600 :ohcrap: But at least I'll have lots to do this weekend :)

..what are you going to epoxy? To what?

LordFly

04-17-2013, 12:50 AM

..what are you going to epoxy? To what?

I get creative when stuff breaks. I would probably carve up a popsicle stick or something to match the size of the square angle drive input, grease it, epoxy it in the dust cap, let it dry, then pull out the greased popsicle stick after the epoxy had set. Voila, new square hole.

dmc6960

04-17-2013, 09:40 AM

I get creative when stuff breaks. I would probably carve up a popsicle stick or something to match the size of the square angle drive input, grease it, epoxy it in the dust cap, let it dry, then pull out the greased popsicle stick after the epoxy had set. Voila, new square hole.

Probably a temporary fix. I can see that one not lasting though since the epoxy will harden harder than the plastic cap. Likely to work its way out after a little while, or crack and just fall apart due to the extremely thin form it will have.

With some of the other things you've found on your car, you should consider yourself lucky the PO didn't epoxy the stub cable directly to the dust cap. You'd be replacing for all three right now.

Jonathan

04-17-2013, 09:52 AM

Ron

04-17-2013, 09:58 AM

After my second cap, I took a strip of stainless, drilled holes on each end and the center (used a triangle file to make it square), aligned the square hole and drilled two pilot holes in the cap for two screws (w/ epoxy). 5 years so far.

dmc6960

04-17-2013, 10:12 AM

The dust cap is the weakest link in the assembly for a reason. It breaks before anything else. The dust cap cost of $15 is less than any of the other pieces in the system. If your dust cap has rounded out, it is telling you there is a problem somewhere else that needs to be corrected. It does not mean go get another dust cap.

He did find a problem elsewhere, a rusted up lower cable. But now that the damage has been done to the dustcap, it does mean go get another dust cap.

LordFly

04-17-2013, 03:19 PM

I think it might look worse in the picture than it really is. There is a bit of junk in the hole becaues I tried to clean it up. It's actually a pretty snug fit. And if you live in Canada, it's not a $15 part. It might start out that way, but by the time you ship it halfway across the country, paid duty, tax, etc., I'm sure it's more like a $50 part. So I'll see how the current one does first.

And yes, given the PO's fixes, I'm lucky the needle isn't just epxoied at the 60km/h mark to simulate city driving ;)

FABombjoy

04-17-2013, 04:02 PM

LordFly

04-18-2013, 08:22 PM

Starting to regret paying $122 on my DMC order for "Express" shipping. It's been 2 full business days since I placed the order and my order status is still "Not Yet Shipped"... :hmm:

jawn101

04-18-2013, 08:29 PM

Starting to regret paying $122 on my DMC order for "Express" shipping. It's been 2 full business days since I placed the order and my order status is still "Not Yet Shipped"... :hmm:

Between that and the surprise at how high your parts bills are, all I can say is "welcome to DeLorean ownership"

Seriously, it takes time to pick all those tiny parts. These guys get em out really fast in most cases. And the lead time will always vary based on time of year and workload at your franchise. The express part is the shipping speed after it leaves :)

LordFly

04-18-2013, 08:38 PM

Between that and the surprise at how high your parts bills are, all I can say is "welcome to DeLorean ownership"

Seriously, it takes time to pick all those tiny parts. These guys get em out really fast in most cases. And the lead time will always vary based on time of year and workload at your franchise. The express part is the shipping speed after it leaves :)

I talked to Alexis this morning and was told everything was picked except the shifter boot which is out of stock at the moment, so I said back order it and ship the rest. I'm hoping the website is just lagging behind the actual status and that it did ship out today, like I was told it would. At work, half of my job is parts and service, and when my customers order things "express", I make sure it goes out that day. If they don't have it the next day, they get pissed and call me, and rightfully so in most cases. Granted nothing in my order is critical, but still, I was hoping to install a bunch of goodies tonight. Not to dis them too much, but as a first time customer, I can't say I'm overly impressed at this point.

dmc6960

04-19-2013, 10:36 AM

jawn101

04-19-2013, 10:41 AM

Next time call Dave and Juliee at DMC-Midwest. They stock just about everything and let you know immediately if something is not available. It'll ship the same day if you order in the morning (and even often in the afternoon) and you should get it in 2 days without any express shipping.

1-877-DMC-MIDW

Agreed, I should have mentioned the same. Plus they know everything, are always willing to share, and all around couldn't be nicer people.

DeLorean03

04-19-2013, 11:24 AM

LordFly

04-19-2013, 12:52 PM

Yeah, definitely going to be my last Huston order. It was easier on the website to just click order, but that was days ago now and my order is still listed as "not yet shipped" :confused0:

John U

04-19-2013, 01:45 PM

Next time call Dave and Juliee at DMC-Midwest. They stock just about everything and let you know immediately if something is not available. It'll ship the same day if you order in the morning (and even often in the afternoon) and you should get it in 2 days without any express shipping.

1-877-DMC-MIDW

Unfortunately you won't get your parts in 2 days in London ON....more like 7-10 due to customs if using USPS, quicker with UPS or Fedex but you will PAY big brokerage fees!

Cory W

04-19-2013, 02:03 PM

Unfortunately you won't get your parts in 2 days in London ON....more like 7-10 due to customs if using USPS, quicker with UPS or Fedex but you will PAY big brokerage fees!

Had to chip in with my experience.

-Call FedEx and sign up for a free "My FedEx" account. All you really need is an address & credit card.
-Call Julee with your next order. She is incredibly cheerful and knowledgeable, to the point you'll feel like you're cheating on them to order elsewhere. Give her part numbers along with description.
-Give her your information, and the My FedEx number. Tell her you want it set up like mine is (any customs fee/taxes immediately go to it. You pay for parts and shipping at the time the order is shipped.)

FedEx will deliver to your house or work and not require payment to release.
Within 10-20 days, your credit card is charged whatever fees are associated with the order, and a statement is delivered to you.

My statements, have shown our HST based on the currency converted value of the parts. No additional brokerage fees, etc.

Also, when I have used FedEx through Dave and Julee, if I order before about 2pm Eastern time, it has been in my hands within 24 hours. The only time that didn't happen was the week leading into Christmas, and that was an issue with FedEx and weather at O'Hare.

If you're already paying for FedEx, check to see what the difference is between "regular" International shipping, and "Express"....I don't think it's ever been more than $6 above regular, so I've always taken it.

John U

04-19-2013, 02:10 PM

Wow....that is good to know! I will have to try that...I can't stand those huge brokerage fees, that's why I have been going with USPost....and waiting and waiting for packages

Cory W

04-19-2013, 02:23 PM

USPS was never an option for me. I've had a delivery sent via USPS a few years back from another vendor (against my explicit instruction, mind) and it took three weeks. Thanks for "looking out for me" and "saving me money", but their decision to make that choices for me made my already short driving season that much shorter. Some things you never forgive.

I found out about the FedEx account once when a contract driver charged me $45 for a huge order, and then I got a statement from FedEx asking for an additional $40. They advised me the account prevents this sort of misunderstanding, as well as administrative fees. How could I refuse?

Jonathan

04-19-2013, 04:41 PM

Agree with everything Cory said. Getting parts to a Canadian owner is not even remotely close to as expensive as what most people chime in about it being. Shipping isn't cheap or free, but that's true for anyone that can't swing by their DMC franchise on the way home from work. If you order heavy stuff, it's more expensive than lighter stuff. The value of the goods is what matters at the border, not the weight. A $100 item costs you $13 in tax whether it weighs one pound or ten pounds.

One note though: I believe Julee mentioned to me now they are leaning more on shipping UPS rather than FedEx, but the same free account idea would apply. Just with a different courier. No flat rate fee for brokerage, just the 13% tax... just like you would pay on anything else you buy as a Canadian.

The bonus is that the exchange rate is just about even steven... where not too long ago it was about 50% worse. At the height of my travelling job days, I recall $100 USD would cost you $160+ CAD. So zero complaints from this kid :D

micmak

04-19-2013, 05:50 PM

Wow....that is good to know! I will have to try that...I can't stand those huge brokerage fees, that's why I have been going with USPost....and waiting and waiting for packages

That's what I do too! I usually plan out my purchases so that I am not standing there waiting. I can afford to wait for USPS. I HATE those brokerage fees too. As far as I am concerned it is unadulterated robbery. I never give my permission for those assholes to touch my property, so as far as I am concerned if they handle it, they are guilty of theft or of invading my privacy or both. Who the hell gives them the right to touch my stuff??? The mail or courier people have my permission to handle it and I pay them for it. I never agree to those brokerage bastards touching it and then billing me for the privilege afterwards! It's embezzlement!

......Mike.......

LordFly

04-19-2013, 08:54 PM

Well DMCH has had 3 full business days and the status is still "not yet shipped", and this is a day and a half AFTER I was told they would back order the one piece and ship that day. I will be calling first thing Monday morning to cancel my order and give it to DMCMW.

In regards to brokerage fees, I had a chat with a UPS delivery guy one day at work. As he told it, there are no brokerage fees on express orders, only ground. Which was half the reason I paid the extra $90 for express shipping. They're going to screw you one way or another, might as well get your stuff quickly in the process.

micmak

04-20-2013, 10:38 AM

In regards to brokerage fees, I had a chat with a UPS delivery guy one day at work. As he told it, there are no brokerage fees on express orders, only ground. Which was half the reason I paid the extra $90 for express shipping. They're going to screw you one way or another, might as well get your stuff quickly in the process.

I dunno Devon. I never understood the whole concept of brokerage fees simply for goods that pass by. I mean if it was a just and equitable system, then you should have to pay it on mail items too, or else there should be no brokerage fees whatsoever. But that is not the case. And what do they do to your stuff??? What? Nothing. They charge you for doing nothing just looking at your stuff. Well I say screw you Mr Broker.:angry: Leave my stuff alone and I will leave you alone. Its ridiculous.
It’s like having to pay protection money to a local gang. It’s like going to a grocery store, buying your provisions and then a gang stops you on the way home. They look through your stuff and demand money to let you continue on your journey! That is what brokerage fees are as far as I am concerned.

......Mike.......

LordFly

04-20-2013, 05:45 PM

I never said any of it was a good idea, just that if I'm going to get screwed, I might as well get my parts quickly in the process.

micmak

04-20-2013, 07:33 PM

But if you are not in a hurry and if you can afford to take your time and use the mail service, there are no brokerage fees at all! How dumb is that?

......Mike......

micmak

04-20-2013, 07:35 PM

Anyway, how is the car coming along? Are you driving it daily, yet?

.......Mike.......

LordFly

04-21-2013, 01:48 AM

Every day it isn't pouring rain :D Got a road trip planned next weekend as long as the weather looks ok. Then I'll be at the Indy even with it in May!

John U

04-21-2013, 03:23 PM

Every day it isn't pouring rain :D Got a road trip planned next weekend as long as the weather looks ok. Then I'll be at the Indy even with it in May!

Where are you going on the road trip?

LordFly

04-22-2013, 10:13 AM

Sault Ste. Marie. No better way to test reliability than driving through the northern part of Michigan where nothing is around for 100 miles ;)

John U

04-22-2013, 04:57 PM

You are BRAVE!!
Play some blackjack at Vegas Kewadin for me!

LordFly

04-22-2013, 09:18 PM

You are BRAVE!!

I was told the same thing when I took it to Guelph a few weeks ago. You people just have no faith ;)

LordFly

04-23-2013, 10:14 AM

Dangermouse

04-23-2013, 11:25 PM

I was told the same thing when I took it to Guelph a few weeks ago. You people just have no faith ;)

Don't confuse having "no faith" with having "experience" :)

jawn101

04-23-2013, 11:28 PM

Don't confuse having "no faith" with having "experience" :)

Haha, yeah. Show of hands whose painstaking and excruciatingly rebuilt car has stranded them over something stupid... :)

My stepsister lives in Guelph.

LordFly

04-24-2013, 12:38 AM

Don't confuse having "no faith" with having "experience" :)

My lack of experience gives me faith ;) But in all honesty, other than the hot start issue and a minor oil leak under the A/C bracket (new o-ring should be here tomorrow), the car has yet to give me the slightest inclination that it is anything other than reliable. It seem the more I drive it, the better it gets. Sure, it's 30 years old, but it's only got 70K on it. My Civic is 9 years old with 360K on it and it would be my second choice. And yes, the PO has put a lot of hack jobs into it, but I think he severely lacked skills/need/want to do any major work. Most of that was handed off to proper mechanics. I should be fine ;) The way I see it, if you're gonna take a road trip, why not do it with some style?

LordFly

04-24-2013, 12:39 AM

My stepsister lives in Guelph.

If you want to visit her, I'll trade you places. I have no problem with spending time in Cali :)

dmc6960

04-24-2013, 09:24 AM

Here is an interesting one. My center drivers door marker light only comes on with the ignition on..... Is it possibly plugged into the wrong socket? I can't see why anyone would intentionally re-wire it like that, so wrong plug is my best guess. But if so, why is there a plug in the door that is on with the ignition?

The doors have an accessory circuit in them that it typically unused (originally for heated mirrors). It has the same connector that the door lights all do, so its conceivable that someone plugged the door light into the wrong connection. Seems kinda odd though because the unused connector is supposed to by taped in the harness by the mirror. Unlikely that the light's harness would reach there. Either way, your PO strikes again.

LordFly

04-24-2013, 10:08 AM

your PO strikes again.

Ugh, does he ever. The guy could be a pro bowler. I'll take a look a for another connector of the same shape tonight and try it out. Thanks. I'm getting really good at taking the door apart :wrenchin:

LordFly

04-29-2013, 11:33 PM

Replaced all door marker bulbs with LEDs from DX.com today. The LEDs are very white, which makes the yellow/red look a tiny bit washed out, but you can only notice it if you have 2 of them side by side. Also fixed the center light on the drivers door. Turns out it was just plugged into the wrong socket. I don't understand how the previous owner managed that :slap: I also replaced the luggage compartment one with LED as well. The extra whiteness in there is a benefit. I bought enough to do the entire car, it's just going to take a bit of time.

Also replaced the drivers door pull (other one is on back order) and the louver catch on engine cover. Also bought a 122 piece socket set to leave permanently in the car. I'm hoping to never need it ;)

LordFly

04-30-2013, 11:13 PM

jawn101

04-30-2013, 11:21 PM

Binicle is now 100% LED, with the exception of the lambda light which not there. One socket was missing, so I figured that was the best one to not have. Also cleaned up my engine light switch. It was stuck down, bent, and corroded badly. I spent about an hour repairing it, works as good as new now :) It's time consuming, but it's nice to see the car slowly getting back to how it should be.

Be careful, if you have the older alternator (I think the Ducy specifically but possibly the Motorola as well, and for sure all of Hervey's ugprades) they will not work properly with the battery lamp as an LED. That needs to be an incandescent bulb.

LordFly

04-30-2013, 11:36 PM

Be careful, if you have the older alternator (I think the Ducy specifically but possibly the Motorola as well, and for sure all of Hervey's ugprades) they will not work properly with the battery lamp as an LED. That needs to be an incandescent bulb.

Good point, I do recall reading that. I didn't actually start the car, just turned the key on to make sure all the LEDs were in the right way. Hold on, going to check...... hmmm, results are inconclusive. Battery light did go out, but the battery sits at about 13V. Have to rev it up to about 3000RPM to get any more out of it. But it was doing that on the road trip I just came back from. So it doesn't seem any different than it was previously when it was incandescent.

Any suggestions on the alternator?

Ron

04-30-2013, 11:50 PM

Any suggestions on the alternator?
One - Do not trust the gauge! -- Check it with a meter right off of the battery. Spec is 13.2V IIRC but an after market will be more like 14.2 (if the pulley is not too big like a lot of them are).

Unless you have a true one wire alternator, the regulator will not kick in until you rev it (3000 is a lot higher than it should take), and then many regulators will still not kick in...
I'd just put the original type bulb back in.

jawn101

04-30-2013, 11:59 PM

One - Do not trust the gauge!
+1, especially if you've yet to clean and reinforce all your grounds.

I'd just put the original type bulb back in.
Another big +1. That light will only illuminate for a few seconds at key-on and you'll probably never see it at any other point. Put a nice, new (old style) bulb in there and never think about it again. Better safe now than trying to figure out why your new alternator doesn't work years down the road :)

DeLorean03

05-01-2013, 01:42 AM

Here is an interesting one. My center drivers door marker light only comes on with the ignition on..... Is it possibly plugged into the wrong socket? I can't see why anyone would intentionally re-wire it like that, so wrong plug is my best guess. But if so, why is there a plug in the door that is on with the ignition?

Is it just one light or all of them on the driver's door? If it's all 3 lights, your wires on your door switch are out of order. For mine it goes:

VERY top male spade: ground wire for door lights

2nd male spade: power wire for door lights

3rd male spade: blue/purple wire for ignition buzzer

last spade closest to the floor of the car: purple white power wire for ignition buzzer

LordFly

05-01-2013, 12:30 PM

Put a nice, new (old style) bulb in there and never think about it again.

Yeah, I guess I could, but the LEDs are so pretty :blush: And also I'd need to pull the binicle out again, and I put all the nuts back on it this time...

Is it just one light or all of them on the driver's door?

I fixed the door light issue a few posts back. As suggested by someone, it was just plugged into the wrong socket. I like when problems have a simple fix :)

jawn101

05-01-2013, 12:36 PM

Yeah, I guess I could, but the LEDs are so pretty :blush: And also I'd need to pull the binicle out again, and I put all the nuts back on it this time...

If you start choosing form over function on this car now, you're gonna have a bad time later... and you can reach the battery light from underneath by snaking your hand up pretty easily :)

Honestly the LEDs and the old bulbs look virtually no different in those warning lamp slots. Replace just the one and you'll see at key-on, you can't even tell the difference.

LordFly

05-01-2013, 03:16 PM

Fine, but if I can see a difference, I'm holding you personally responsible! ;)

jawn101

05-01-2013, 06:12 PM

Fine, but if I can see a difference, I'm holding you personally responsible! ;)

It's a deal :)

LordFly

05-01-2013, 11:02 PM

18683

Mark D

05-02-2013, 11:48 AM

18683

pizza....french fry....

LordFly

05-04-2013, 04:15 PM

DMCMW Dave

05-04-2013, 05:01 PM

Bizarre experience this morning. Turned the key and got absolutely nothing..... :hmm: interior lights work, headlights work, no ignition. Turned they again, nothing. Turned the key a few more times, finally dash lights and stereo came on and it started. Dirty contacts in the ignition switch maybe?

Maybe. Check your battery connections, ground at the frame, starter connections.

The oddball thing about your comment is losing the stereo etc. at the same time. That points to a ground issue as the starter feed is a very separate circuit from the accessory / main relay circuits, not fed from the same place other than the switch itself.

LordFly

05-04-2013, 05:11 PM

The stereo was why I guessed something with the ignition switch. Turning the key did absolutely nothing. Almost like the battery was dead, which was why I checked the lights. I had a similar thing with my blower switch. It did absolutely nothing, took it apart, cleaned all contact points, good as new.

Dave, I didn't get any reply to my email the other day, from you or Julee. Did you get the list of A/C parts I need?

DMCMW Dave

05-04-2013, 05:16 PM

Dave, I didn't get any reply to my email the other day, from you or Julee. Did you get the list of A/C parts I need?

Got it - got buried in backlog, you'll get something from Julee shortly. We moved her to her new office yesterday, still catching up.

LordFly

05-04-2013, 05:31 PM

Awesome, thanks Dave. I'm out of the office on a service call all next week, so I may have limited email access. I get back Thursday night, then Indy on Friday :)

*EDIT* Wow, I thought you meant sometime on Monday, not "shortly" as in before I could post this! No wonder everyone raves about you guys all the time!

LordFly

05-06-2013, 12:52 AM

Repairs have begun on the A pillars. Unfortunately will not be done in time for the big Indy event. Currently gluing the metal part back in place. Then recovering, then dying. But I'm out of town all week on business, so I'm stopped at just the gluing for now.
18860

I also have a door handle issue. The handle rubs on the door when opened. It seems that the handle sits in too far on one side...
1885718858

Dangermouse

05-06-2013, 08:29 AM

Then recovering, then dying.

Sorry to hear that. It's been nice having you on the forum. Good luck in the afterlife :)

LordFly

05-06-2013, 05:36 PM

Haha, I missed that, nice.

LordFly

05-10-2013, 09:53 PM

Having an awesome time at the Friday night pre-Indy event. Got new steering shaft with U-joints, proper coolant tank, A/C brackets, DMC jacket, and all my DMC parts from Dave and Julee. Pretty awesome day so far :)

LordFly

06-13-2013, 08:05 AM

I've run into an interesting issue. I had heard talk of the blower motors for the HCAV system running backwards. Apparently it'll still work, but just not as well. I decided to check and sure enough, my runs the opposite direction of the arrow on the plastic fan wheel. While I had it out, I cleaned and regreased the bearings as best I could, since it was making an awful whine sometimes. Put it back together and it sounds good....but does not blow any air. Even on 4, I can barely feel any air coming out of any vents. The especially odd part is, it seems to be sucking in a LOT more air at the windshield than it is blowing out anywhere.... :hmm:
That is going to make for some terrible A/C on the drive to DMC Mid West tomorrow :(

Farrar

06-13-2013, 08:08 AM

That is going to make for some terrible A/C on the drive to DMC Mid West tomorrow :(

On the plus side, it should be an easy fix for them once you're there. :)

LordFly

06-13-2013, 08:36 AM

Haha, probably. But I was hoping for an easy fix BEFORE I get there :)

Farrar

06-13-2013, 08:37 AM

Haha, probably. But I was hoping for an easy fix BEFORE I get there :)

My D hasn't had air conditioning for three years. My personal belief is that they were originally designed without it, and fight having it installed. :P

DrJeff

06-13-2013, 12:31 PM

My D hasn't had air conditioning for three years. My personal belief is that they were originally designed without it, and fight having it installed. :P

Air conditioning in N.Ireland is called "opening a window".

Farrar

06-13-2013, 12:48 PM

Air conditioning in N.Ireland is called "opening a window".

I was thinking Italy, actually, but I wonder if there was a lot of re-designing going on in NI as well, once things turned out not to be perfect from the start. ;)

DrJeff

06-13-2013, 12:52 PM

I was thinking Italy, actually, but I wonder if there was a lot of re-designing going on in NI as well, once things turned out not to be perfect from the start. ;)

The N.Ireland guys probably didn't have much to say about design, but I'd bet they hardly ever even tested the A/C after putting it together.

Dangermouse

06-13-2013, 01:04 PM

but I'd bet they hardly ever even tested the A/C after putting it together.

When would it get warm enough to test?? :tongue_stick:

Farrar

06-13-2013, 01:28 PM

When would it get warm enough to test?? :tongue_stick:

Well, if there's a firebombed office building nearby...

LordFly

06-13-2013, 01:44 PM

Sometimes this forum is not helpful....:swear1:

But at least it's amusing :)

LordFly

06-17-2013, 10:19 AM

I really lucked out at the DMC Midwest Open House. The master of stainless himself had some free time at the end of the day and took care of my ugly, ugly door ding! Watching this guy work is simply amazing. He take out most dings and dents in about an hour! Even this bad on in my door, which someone had attempted to fix themselves, was repaired in only a little over an hour. It was amazing! Makes me feel SOOO much better about the car now :)

Here's a pick of Chris N working on the door, and a couple of before and after shots.

198751987619877

dvonk

06-17-2013, 01:58 PM

Here's a pick of Chris N working on the door, and a couple of before and after shots...

awesome! the Stainless Wizard at work. looks great! :hihi2:

Farrar

06-18-2013, 08:28 PM

What was the deal with your a/c?

Jimmyvonviggle

06-18-2013, 08:33 PM

Wow that guy is good. I wonder what his background is and how he got started in this.

LordFly

06-24-2013, 10:14 AM

What was the deal with your a/c?

Current status: Working :)
I give it about an 8/10. It seems to cycle off and on a LOT. I don't think I put quite enough of the R134 in, so it runs for a little bit, then the low pressure sensor kicks it off, then it levels off and the low pressure sensor kicks it back on, then repeat. I'm going to top it up this week and hopefully she'll be good to go.

LordFly

06-24-2013, 10:15 AM

Wow that guy is good. I wonder what his background is and how he got started in this.

From what I've heard he's been in the stainless repair business for quite a while, but kitchen stuff. Fridges, stoves, that kinda stuff. The DeLorean repair thing just came from that. But he's damn good at it!

OverlandMan

06-24-2013, 10:58 AM

awesome! the Stainless Wizard at work. looks great! :hihi2:

Is that the same guy from the DeLorean Wheeler Dealer's episode? (The one they outsourced to do the body work?)

Do you know what his rates are?

LordFly

06-24-2013, 12:30 PM

Is that the same guy from the DeLorean Wheeler Dealer's episode? (The one they outsourced to do the body work?)

Do you know what his rates are?

One and the same :nana1:

At the DMCMW open house, it was $110/hr. Which I believe, but don't quote me, is their standard SS repair rate. But I suppose it could have been some kind of open house special. My repairs were done in 1.3 hours. Easily the best $140ish dollars I've spent so far on the car.

Ryan King

06-24-2013, 12:48 PM

One and the same :nana1:

At the DMCMW open house, it was $110/hr. Which I believe, but don't quote me, is their standard SS repair rate. But I suppose it could have been some kind of open house special. My repairs were done in 1.3 hours. Easily the best $140ish dollars I've spent so far on the car.

Is he living in the states now doing stainless repair?

OverlandMan

06-24-2013, 02:22 PM

One and the same :nana1:

At the DMCMW open house, it was $110/hr. Which I believe, but don't quote me, is their standard SS repair rate. But I suppose it could have been some kind of open house special. My repairs were done in 1.3 hours. Easily the best $140ish dollars I've spent so far on the car.

Fantastic! I would agree in that's money well spent. I wonder what it would take to get him down to Texas... Is he on this forum?

LordFly

06-24-2013, 03:19 PM

Is he living in the states now doing stainless repair?

We'll all keep our fingers crossed ;)

Fantastic! I would agree in that's money well spent. I wonder what it would take to get him down to Texas... Is he on this forum?

That I'm not sure of. I'm sure other would know better. But THIS POST (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7426-DeLorean-Right-Front-Fender-Antenna-Hole-Patch-Fill-Video&highlight=chris+N) has a video of him filling in a fender antenna hole :)

dvonk

06-24-2013, 04:51 PM

I wonder what it would take to get him down to Texas... Is he on this forum?

i believe this is his account (http://dmctalk.org/member.php?1227-Chris-Nicholson), but i dont really know how often he logs on... (e.g., 1 recent post over past 1.5 years)

calling one of the vendors might be a better way to glean information.

LordFly

06-28-2013, 08:16 AM

Found a couple of small cave paintings while working inside the passenger door yesterday. Nothing amazing, but the dated one is kinda neat :)

2017420175

LordFly

07-02-2013, 12:34 PM

This is my trip route for the last 3 months since buying the car. DeLorean Tour (http://goo.gl/maps/pZ39a)

In all that time, the only issue I've had was a melted fuse, which left me on the side of the road for maybe 10 minutes while I picked out the melted bits, cleaned it up with a wire brush and popped in a new fuse. I don't know why people keep complaining about reliability issues ;) 20287

dmc6960

07-02-2013, 12:37 PM

I find it intriguing that your melted fuse was in an external holder. Was this holder for an already melted fuse #7?

jawn101

07-02-2013, 01:26 PM

I find it intriguing that your melted fuse was in an external holder. Was this holder for an already melted fuse #7?

Agreed, this could be a real indicator of bad things if so...

Congrats on the successful trip all the same!

LordFly

07-02-2013, 03:18 PM

I find it intriguing that your melted fuse was in an external holder. Was this holder for an already melted fuse #7?

Sure was. At some point before I got the car #7 melted in the box, making it impossible to put a fuse back in, so the PO put in that external fuse holder. Which melted again on my last trip. Oddly enough, even with my new alternator, the gauge read about 13V all the time. After I replaced the melted fuse, it read closer to 13.5V - 14V. I have a feeling the old connectors are a little corroded and it's causing poor current flow, which wastes voltage by heating fuses. I plan to replace the box with a new one and dielectric grease all contact points. Hopefully that will eliminate any future problems.

DeLorean03

07-02-2013, 04:16 PM

Sure was. At some point before I got the car #7 melted in the box, making it impossible to put a fuse back in, so the PO put in that external fuse holder. Which melted again on my last trip. Oddly enough, even with my new alternator, the gauge read about 13V all the time. After I replaced the melted fuse, it read closer to 13.5V - 14V. I have a feeling the old connectors are a little corroded and it's causing poor current flow, which wastes voltage by heating fuses. I plan to replace the box with a new one and dielectric grease all contact points. Hopefully that will eliminate any future problems.

The solution I came up with was to run a dedicated wire with an in-line 20A fuse from the battery to the fuel pump, and then run a dedicated ground from the pump to the frame where the horn bracket anchors to the frame. Since I did that, my fuse has gotten, at most, luke warm - it has never reached a heated point to where the fuse or its holder start to melt and fail.

Jonathan

07-02-2013, 05:37 PM

DeLorean03

07-02-2013, 06:46 PM

Out of curiosity, aren't some of the "bigger fuse" fixes doing more to deal with the symptoms rather than the real problem itself?

I was just thinking that in a well running DeLorean, you wouldn't typically have things getting melted unless there was some problem with a component or system. I know it wasn't the greatest electrical design of all time, but getting to the root of the problem, such as dirty grounds, a short somewhere, or problematic fan motor, etc. seems to be a better approach than to beef up the fuses or wiring.

I know we all deal with the reality or practicality of wanting to drive our cars instead of tearing them down to the frame to fix everything perfectly and by the book, so I'd lean more towards cleaning grounds sooner than later versus a bigger/better inline fuse holder. That's just me though. Everyone gets to do whatever they please.

In my case, I wouldn't say I added bigger wire or another fuse to skirt around an unknown problem.

Nearly ever single DeLorean has fuse #7 melted. Simply put, that fuse has too much going through it. The current needs to be distributed elsewhere, hence, the introduction of another fuse with 12 gauge wire - wire that can handle the current appropriately.

IMHO, there is no "one problem" when it comes to fuse #7; it simply has too many things running on it. It has the fuel pump, the control pressure regulator, the lambda relay, the lambda ecu and the frequency valve all running it. We know the fuel pump alone is demanding around 10A at a minimum.

It is similar to the cooling fans. They demand - what - 20A of current? They demand enough current that when they kicked on we see our voltmeters go down and the headlights dim. We could say that as long as the car doesn't stall, that it's not a problem. But we got vendors selling alternative fans that are more modern and demand way less current for a reason.

I am not saying you're wrong; I am just saying I got tired of worrying about fuse #7 overheating. What I did is completely reversible with very minimal permanent changes to the car (one hole cut for the wire in a rubber gasket between the cockpit of the car and the area where the pump is installed). I'm happy with it, and anyone who is interested in the mod I performed I don't mind sharing information and pictures. It's just a lil mod I came up with, and so far, it has been well worth it :D !

LordFly

07-02-2013, 06:47 PM

A melted fuse is always a result of poor connections at the fuse. Heat comes from power, power is watts, watts = volts times current. If you measure the voltage across a fuse, you should get 0 (there will be something in reality, but it's negligible), as it should not have any resistance. Zero voltage, regardless of current, will give you zero power. The only way to get heat out of a fuse is if you have a voltage drop. This will give you something to multiply your current by, giving you watts, and heat. A poorly connected fuses will melt. In a 30 year old car, the most likely cause is corroded connectors that the fuse sit in, but it could also possibly be a poorly seated fuse.

micmak

07-02-2013, 07:52 PM

Hey Devon,
You didn't include the Lotus Day drive in your DeLorean Tour map. I think you said you did 600 or 700 kms that day, didn't you?

......Mike......

LordFly

07-02-2013, 09:32 PM

You didn't include the Lotus Day drive in your DeLorean Tour map. I think you said you did 600 or 700 kms that day, didn't you?

Haha, I rounded a bit. I also didn't include any of the touring around I did at any events, or any driving I do here in the city. I'm probably a little closer to 6000km (if not past it) in the last 3 months. Definitely time for an oil change ;)

Dangermouse

07-02-2013, 10:17 PM

i believe this is his account (http://dmctalk.org/member.php?1227-Chris-Nicholson), but i dont really know how often he logs on... (e.g., 1 recent post over past 1.5 years)

calling one of the vendors might be a better way to glean information.

Chris owns or co-owns PJ Grady UK outside of London. He is kept busy with both mechanical refurbs and SS work. As well as building that Twin Turbo Legend RHD updated car.

I understand that he can schedule US trips if the amount if work is sufficient, such as at the Open House.

He rarely posts on any of the forums.

LordFly

07-07-2013, 08:01 PM

Found this while point around the engine bay. On the left side is a hose clamp clampping a coolant pipe and a random o-ring just sitting there. They're doing no harm at the moment, so I left them for now. Hoping to install my new hose kit some time this week, so I'll take the extra clamp off then.

20425

LordFly

07-07-2013, 11:18 PM

dvonk

07-11-2013, 10:19 AM

Farrar

07-11-2013, 10:24 AM

Spent a little time with the heat gun this afternoon and straightened out my rear bumper. I didn't like how the screws had to go in on wonky angles to thread into the inserts. All better now :)

Nice job! I just bought a heat gun and I have the same problem with the screws missing their jacknuts. Did you do that on the car or off? Care to share any tips? :)

ALEXAKOS

07-11-2013, 11:36 AM

WOW!
This looks like those fake "loose weight" before and after images....
But this is real!!!

BTW, on your above mentioned hose clamp...
I have restored 4 cars so far of different makes.
The D has a ridiculous amount of hose clamps!!!! Damn.. Will take a shot of the full set of clamps used for the engine cooling system. Most of which I had to cut open due to the rusty screw :cry:

Ron

07-11-2013, 03:20 PM

LordFly

07-12-2013, 12:23 AM

Nice job! I just bought a heat gun and I have the same problem with the screws missing their jacknuts. Did you do that on the car or off? Care to share any tips? :)
Done on car. I do have a couple tips:
- Take the tail lights out so you can reach the back side of the bumper. Some areas need to be pushed in while others are pushed out.
- Take your time with the heat gun! You don't want to melt a hole. I kept it on the low setting, about 4"-5" away, and checked how "soft" the plastic was about every 10-15 seconds.
- You only want it soft enough that you can deform it a bit with mild pressure. Not to the point where it starts sagging or anything.
- I only worked on an area about 4" in diameter at a time, and waited for it to pretty much cool right off before starting a new area.
- Perhaps not the best method, but I kinda folded up a paper towel for each hand and used that to massage things back into shape. It kept from burning my hands, and also wiped off a lot of dirt ;)

WOW!
This looks like those fake "loose weight" before and after images....
But this is real!!!

BTW, on your above mentioned hose clamp...
I have restored 4 cars so far of different makes.
The D has a ridiculous amount of hose clamps!!!! Damn.. Will take a shot of the full set of clamps used for the engine cooling system. Most of which I had to cut open due to the rusty screw :cry:

Haha, I know, I have the complete coolant kit! I think there are 4 bags of hose clamps, and 1 of the bags is huge!

Damn good job!!!

Thanks! I'm quite pleased with out it turned out. Good practice for fixing eyebrows, but my car doesn't really have any, so it's not an issue yet. but at least I know I can do it if I need to :)

ALEXAKOS

07-12-2013, 02:45 AM

I'll tell you this my Lord.
If your D thread has gotten to 20 pages already considering this is a very well maintained D with minimal attention needed....

Imagine how many pages my catastrophe will need to completion! hahahahahaha

LordFly

07-12-2013, 10:15 AM

A lot of my stuff is minor, I just post it for fun :)

Farrar

07-12-2013, 10:50 AM

Thanks for the tips, Devon! I will have to take frequent breaks while I try this. My garage has no air conditioning or windows. LOL

LordFly

07-12-2013, 12:28 PM

Thanks for the tips, Devon! I will have to take frequent breaks while I try this. My garage has no air conditioning or windows. LOL

I also recommend that, because my garage is the same ;)

Farrar

07-12-2013, 12:32 PM

I also recommend that, because my garage is the same ;)

Ah, working with a heat gun in a hot garage in the dead of summer.

Yup, we DeLorean owners are a special kind of crazy.

Dangermouse

07-12-2013, 01:00 PM

. My garage has no air conditioning or windows. LOL

Mine too.

A cheap walmart floor mounted oscillating fan makes a huge difference btw.

Farrar

07-12-2013, 01:05 PM

A cheap walmart floor mounted oscillating fan makes a huge difference btw.

It's figuring out where to put it which is the tricky thing. My garage, minus the shelves at the back, is barely bigger than the car itself...

Dangermouse

07-12-2013, 01:08 PM

Perhaps floor "mounted" is too literal. Floor "sitting upon" is more correct.

It is moved with me wherever I go.

SS Spoiler

07-12-2013, 01:59 PM

I must live in an ideal part of the country, in the flathead valley of Montana. Highs this week low 70's, lows at night
40's / 50's. [great sleeping weather] Just looked out the window at relative humidity 32%, light breezes, great views of mountains in all directions. Frost depth is only 30 inches, last winter it got down to 10.....above [year before only 8 above] All this at 60 miles from Canada! Best place in the USA to retire to.

Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT

Farrar

07-12-2013, 02:07 PM

You're slipping, Mr. Cerny -- you forgot to mention your 37-pound spoiler in that post. ;)

LordFly

08-06-2013, 12:23 AM

I'm in the process of replacing ALL the coolant hoses on the car. It seemed like a good time, since my otterstat recently failed and needed to be replaced. It's quite the process! This is definitely one of the downsides of a rear engine. Heres a little before and after picture of one section. No idea what the PO has 3 clamps there, but it so far is not uncommon to see an extra hose clamp here and there.

21018

Also found a not so pretty section of my frame :( Not sure exactly what the PO was trying to do to it, but it looks like he cut out sections and welded them back in, very poorly. Unfortunately this will not be properly repaired for at least another year or two until I have a hoist of my own that I can occupy for an indefinite amount of time.

21019

ALEXAKOS

08-06-2013, 02:40 AM

Yes that front impact section of the frame is very rust sensitive! The whole bottom cover of the bridge is actuary missing!
Mine barely holds together where as the rest of the frame is much more durable!
That would take some grinding and painting. Now you know why there is black paint on your frame.:blackeye:

Edit:
I actually see some welding ticks around the edges. I hope they did a good job under it, cause your sway bar does some nasty pulling on that part.

Josh

08-06-2013, 08:14 AM

Wow, not a very good repair job. Undercoating is usually a bad sign on the frame as noted in the last post. Mine had undercoating around the engine and on the crumple zone, very spotty though. Luckily no major rust was found. At the very least that whole bottom plate should be replaced as a start. You will find more as you start cutting unfortunately.

LordFly

08-07-2013, 12:07 AM

Pile of hoses I have ripped out of the car. A good number of them required cutting. Same goes for a number of the hose clamps.

21051

Along with finding out that the vacuum control for the heater was shot (not that I'll be driving when it's very cold, but still nice to have everything functioning), I also found out that my PO has struck once again! The vacuum lines are all buggered up. He has things T'd that should not be T'd, things going to places where they don't belong, and 1 line just flopping around in the breeze. I can't wait to see how it runs once I put them all back where they belong!

Edit: I should probably note that I've replaced all those hoses with new ones, just so no one thinks I'm just tearing the car apart.

DMCMW Dave

08-07-2013, 12:35 AM

I will never cease to be amazed at how many people who weld metal shouldn't.

LordFly

08-07-2013, 12:43 AM

Ugh, tell me about it! I can weld a little bit, but I know better than to weld the frame a DeLorean. That is where you call in a professional. It's on the list of things to do down the road :(

ALEXAKOS

08-07-2013, 02:30 AM

I think that is just half of the D's hoses and clamps!:cool1:
I had to cut ALL clamps. They were so rusty the screw heads were all rust eaten away. Nothing to work on. As for the hoses, if you stick a screw driver between the hose and the pipe and sway around (some need more work) it pops right out! Just to avoid damaging the pipes.

Edit: Maybe you should consider an overall restoration like I am doing. Sounds crazy but you see a LOT of stuff that is wrong in your D.
Nice winter project:)

LordFly

08-07-2013, 07:10 AM

Edit: Maybe you should consider an overall restoration like I am doing. Sounds crazy but you see a LOT of stuff that is wrong in your D.
Nice winter project:)

Hey now! It's not THAT bad ;) Maybe I should highlight the good parts of the car once in a while, not just the bad ones.

ALEXAKOS

08-07-2013, 07:59 AM

has nothing to do with how bad it is but with how good you want it to be;)
Plus you get to know your D better and what is where.:hippo:

DMCMW Dave

08-07-2013, 10:11 AM

Hey now! It's not THAT bad ;) Maybe I should highlight the good parts of the car once in a while, not just the bad ones.

That fact that you bought the car, and without a tremendous about of work drove it all over North America in a summer, says a lot.

LordFly

08-07-2013, 10:15 AM

That fact that you bought the car, and without a tremendous about of work drove it all over North America in a summer, says a lot.

True, it does have a few more miles on it now than when I bought it :D I've kinda lost count now. 4 or 5 major road trips, and at least 3 or 4 smaller ones. Taking it over to the Toronto area this weekend for the Vintage Cars & Planes Show (http://www.warplane.com/), but that's only a little over an hour away. Hardly even counts as a trip ;)

LordFly

08-07-2013, 10:17 AM

Plus you get to know your D better and what is where.

I already know where FAR too many things are on that car. Pretty soon Dave is going to be asking ME questions! :wink:

LordFly

08-12-2013, 08:09 PM

I think I could take him ;)

21189

Jonathan

08-12-2013, 09:18 PM

I think I could take him ;)

21189

Tower, this is Ghost Rider requesting a McFlyby.

LordFly

08-21-2013, 01:26 AM

Should have done this a LONG time ago. Finally braced the engine cover where it was cracked. It is SOOO much better now. It no longer looks like it's going to explode if I prop it up, it does not flex at ALL! And it sits up so much higher now :) Heres a few before an after shots. You really can't even see the bracing, unless you look REALLLLLY close :D

2151621517

ALEXAKOS

08-21-2013, 02:24 AM

Good job my lord!
Day by day you have an improvement up your sleeve

LordFly

09-19-2013, 07:35 AM

DMCMW Dave

09-19-2013, 08:27 AM

Shiny new fuel pump installed. The previous one had corroded and a tiny pinhole was shooting gas out the top side of the fuel pump, which is an excellent way to drain the tank, but not very good if you intend to drive the car.

22038

You appear to be missing the cover that keeps the top of that area from filling with water (from the windshield). That is what rotted the hole in the other pump.

http://store.delorean.com/p-9083-fuel-pump-cover-seal.aspx

If you want to see something scary, leave that open like in your photo, and spray water on your windshield.

The pump is designed to be out in the weather, but not with water standing on top of it.

LordFly

09-19-2013, 08:49 AM

You appear to be missing the cover that keeps the top of that area from filling with water (from the windshield). That is what rotted the hole in the other pump.

It's not actually missing, it's just out of frame. I couldn't get a shot of the new pump installed with the cover on :) Good eye though Dave! Although....since you've mentioned it, the rubber coating has rotted off the fuel lines, so the plastic cap doesn't seal up all that great. Maybe when it's away for the winter I'll replace those lines, and maybe use some kinda tape to seal them to the plastic cap :) Thanks Dave!

jawn101

09-19-2013, 11:28 PM

LordFly

09-20-2013, 07:41 AM

I gotta ask, man... No disrespect intended, but I saw your post on the poor gas mileage and then this one where you find your pump was pumping half your fuel onto the ground? How did you miss the smell!? :)

Either way, glad you did find it and killed two birds with one stone :)

Haha, unrelated problems. Pin hole in the fuel pump was only an issue for about 3 hours from first leak until temporarily fixed. I did actually smell it as soon as it started, but I (foolishly) hoped it wasn't my car ;) I managed to drive about 20 minutes and went from 1/2 tank to under the 0 mark. Which works out to roughly 6 MPG. Makes 18 seem not so bad!

Unfortunately the new pump did not fix gas mileage, lack of power, or hot start problem. But I'll get there :wrenchin:

jawn101

09-20-2013, 10:05 AM

Haha, unrelated problems. Pin hole in the fuel pump was only an issue for about 3 hours from first leak until temporarily fixed. I did actually smell it as soon as it started, but I (foolishly) hoped it wasn't my car ;) I managed to drive about 20 minutes and went from 1/2 tank to under the 0 mark. Which works out to roughly 6 MPG. Makes 18 seem not so bad!

Unfortunately the new pump did not fix gas mileage, lack of power, or hot start problem. But I'll get there :wrenchin:

Ah, well that makes sense then :) Glad you got your new pump buttoned up and sorry the fuel efficiency is still an issue, then!