Changing the gear oil in a 5-Speed

[Chris 16409]

The other day I decided I should change the gear oil in my car. I don't know when it was done last. First I lifted the rear end and got under the car to get access to the filler and drain plugs. I wanted to make sure I could get the filler plug off, so I did that first. Surprisingly, I had no trouble getting the filler plug off. The drain plug however, is a different story. I tried my damnedest, but I could not get to get the drain plug to budge. I even took a propane torch to it. Does anybody have any ideas on getting a stubborn drain plug off?

[Bitsyncmaster]

We just did one not long ago. I had good luck with my car just MIG welding a nut on the drain plug. But this other car I welded the nut on and used an impact wrench to get it started. It still seemed tight after welding the nut on.

[jmettee]

Gator Grip socket works great for this.
http://www.endeavorproducts.com/Home.html

Got mine @ Home Depot for around $11

[Chris 16409]

Gator Grip socket works great for this.
http://www.endeavorproducts.com/Home.html

Got mine @ Home Depot for around $11

HOLY CRAP!

This socket is fantastic, thanks for the suggestion Justin. I can't believe how easy it was to brake the plug free with this. I was struggling so hard before. Forget any other method, just buy a Gator Grip socket. Never would have thought to use this. This is one of those products you see advertised on TV that you think would never work. It was like $11.95 at Home Depot.

[Chris 16409]

Got my gear oil changed out with new Castrol Hypoy C gear oil. The car seemed to shift smoother with the new oil when I test drove the car. I'll Have drive it more to see if the shifting stays the same.

http://www.autoconnectioninc.net/DaCart/images/HYP_GearOil_400x797.jpg

[jmettee]

HOLY CRAP!

This socket is fantastic, thanks for the suggestion Justin. I can't believe how easy it was to brake the plug free with this. I was struggling so hard before. Forget any other method, just buy a Gator Grip socket. Never would have thought to use this. This is one of those products you see advertised on TV that you think would never work. It was like $11.95 at Home Depot.

Yep, & made in the USA too. I had the same experience....fought with other wrenches onhand & just marred the square. Got the Gator Grip & it came off with little force. It was either this or the $25 Snap On 'correct' tool for a square drice pipe plug that I had no other use for. Gator Grip also works on other things such as eye hooks, wing nuts, etc.

[content22207]

Or just put the 3/8" square drive end of a spark plug socket on the plug, then use a wrench to turn the socket (spark plug sockets typically have hex edges).

Bill Robertson
#5939

[jawn101]

Got my gear oil changed out with new Castrol Hypoy C gear oil. The car seemed to shift smoother with the new oil when I test drove the car. I'll Have drive it more to see if the shifting stays the same.

http://www.autoconnectioninc.net/DaCart/images/HYP_GearOil_400x797.jpg

Hey Chris, where'd you find this oil? And how much did you end up needing? I don't recall seeing a quantity in the manual.

[tgraham]

You'll need just under 4 quarts to fill it up.

Travis

[David T]

Should be able to find it locally. You can also use Redline MT-90 which is what many use in their Lotus's (similar transmission). Always remove the side (level plug) first. You DO NOT want to remove the drain plug and then find you cannot get the level (fill) plug out!!!!! The "best" way to remove the plugs is with the Snap-On adapter with a LONG breaker bar, no heat. Put teflon tape on the threads when you put the plugs back, they will remove easier and not leak.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

Should be able to find it locally. You can also use Redline MT-90 which is what many use in their Lotus's (similar transmission). Always remove the side (level plug) first. You DO NOT want to remove the drain plug and then find you cannot get the level (fill) plug out!!!!! The "best" way to remove the plugs is with the Snap-On adapter with a LONG breaker bar, no heat. Put teflon tape on the threads when you put the plugs back, they will remove easier and not leak.
David Teitelbaum

Thanks David. This is on the winter list now!

[dvonk]

Put teflon tape on the threads when you put the plugs back, they will remove easier and not leak.

maybe a dumb question, but is there any risk if of bits of teflon tape getting into the transmission and causing harm?

[jmettee]

maybe a dumb question, but is there any risk if of bits of teflon tape getting into the transmission and causing harm?

I wouldn't think so, but on the other hand, a properly Teflon-wrapped thread should not have the Teflon tape anywhere inside the transmission body. The tape should ONLY be on the threads.

[David T]

If you don't go crazy with the tape I don't see how it will get into the transmission and even if it does it won't do any harm. You want to keep tape out of hydraulic systems, in them it can cause havoc. If you are really worried about it there are liquid thread sealers you can use.
David Teitelbaum

[dvonk]

nice. ill keep that in mind if i ever have a leaky trans plug...

[lindbergh]

The "best" way to remove the plugs is with the Snap-On adapter with a LONG breaker bar, no heat. Put teflon tape on the threads when you put the plugs back, they will remove easier and not leak.
David Teitelbaum

Anybody know the part number or name of this Snap-on adapter? Thanks.

[DMCMW Dave]

anybody know the part number or name of this snap-on adapter? Thanks.

pmm408a

[lindbergh]

pmm408a

^ Thanks! but I don't see how this will remove the tranny plug looks more like the one for the engine oil drain plug.

13616

.

[Dangermouse]

Sounds like your tranny plug has been changed.

The originals were the same as the engine oil drain plug.

[DMCMW Dave]

^ Thanks! but I don't see how this will remove the tranny plug looks more like the one for the engine oil drain plug.

13616

.

For an automatic it is the same.

For a manual the Trans drain is PMP410A

[DMC5180]

The Correct socket for Manual trans drain and fill plugs.

http://buy.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=641934&PartNo=PMP410&group_id=674847&supersede=&store=snapon-store&tool=all

[lindbergh]

Thanks all, I will be ordering that adapter since I'm having a heck of a time getting the fill plug out. Hopefully my ratchet won't break when I put it in a breaker bar.:umm:

[rothsean]

Thanks all, I will be ordering that adapter since I'm having a heck of a time getting the fill plug out. Hopefully my ratchet won't break when I put it in a breaker bar.:umm:

Did you order it?

[Ron]

Another option is to take a blunt chisel and hit it almost straight on a couple of light raps to get a bite and then aim it about half way to tangent...one good lick usually does it.

[DMCMW Dave]

Another option is to take a blunt chisel and hit it almost straight on a couple of light raps to get a bite and then aim it about half way to tangent...one good lick usually does it.

Then order a new one because the resulting dent will make it leak.

[Ron]

Then order a new one because the resulting dent will make it leak.
Yes! (But order it first and have it on hand ;-)
Actually, those that use a sealing washer usually come off so easy that they don't distort that much...But if you have to resort to this, it's a POS anyway.

====

To be clear, when I said almost straight on, I meant hold the chisel level on the side of the plug/head and aim it slightly less than toward the center, in the direction you want to turn it, to get more bite than cut...The whole process takes 2-4 licks at most. A life saver on regular stamped pans.

[stevedmc]

Put the box end of a wrench on the hex part of a spark plug socket, turn the socket around backwards (put the normal receiver for a socket wrench on the drain plug), then tap the wrench with a hammer.

[Ron]

Put the box end of a wrench on the hex part of a spark plug socket, turn the socket around backwards (put the normal receiver for a socket wrench on the drain plug), then tap the wrench with a hammer.I've done something similar for the male heads...Just put a short extension on it "backwards" and use an adjustable wrench where a socket normally goes.

[DMC5180]

Another option is to take a blunt chisel and hit it almost straight on a couple of light raps to get a bite and then aim it about half way to tangent...one good lick usually does it.


:nono: He is trying to remove the manual trans drain ( 10MM Square head Pipe Plug), Not the Engine oil plug or Auto trans plug. ( 8MM internal square drive) straight thread with Copper sealing washer)

[DMC5180]

Put the box end of a wrench on the hex part of a spark plug socket, turn the socket around backwards (put the normal receiver for a socket wrench on the drain plug), then tap the wrench with a hammer.


I've done something similar for the male heads...Just put a short extension on it "backwards" and use an adjustable wrench where a socket normally goes.

They say ingenuity is the mother of invention. Or, You Just Might Be Redneck! :biggrin:

[DMCMW Dave]

Just do NOT use vise (mole) grips or crescent wrenches.

[jawn101]

I've done something similar for the male heads...Just put a short extension on it "backwards" and use an adjustable wrench where a socket normally goes.

This worked great for me as well. No problems at all loosening or tightening the plugs and didn't need another unitasking tool in the drawer.

[Ron]

:nono: He is trying to remove the manual trans drain ( 10MM Square head Pipe Plug), Not the Engine oil plug or Auto trans plug. ( 8MM internal square drive) straight thread with Copper sealing washer)
lol
I didn't have any of the above in mind...The conversation has been about everything from gearboxes to gear oil. After seeing posts about adapters for both manual and autos (some $20.00!), I posted an option for any FUBARed drain plug in general, including the the manual trans. (Even if they are in a recess you can use a sharp punch.)

====================
Note to those with an auto: They have two plugs, the final drive uses the same gear oil mentioned above but the plug has a female square hole instead of male. (8MM = ~5/16")
====================


Just do NOT use vise (mole) grips or crescent wrenches.YES! ..usually the reason you're having problems in the first place (^&%$#&* POs).

[Ron]

They say ingenuity is the mother of invention. Or, You Just Might Be Redneck! :biggrin:

:biggrin:(good one!) You're on a tro..um..roll today!


$20.55
13674

$12.30
13676

Differences:
Price- $8.25 (plus taxes)
Size- <0.02" (allows for wear and abuse ;-)

(He said, just a sittin' on that sack of seed).
:headbang:

[lindbergh]

My experience:

I purchased the snap-on square socket for removing the manual transmission plugs. The fill plug was still square but had some rounding. The drain plug was perfectly square, no rounding. I attached the square adapter to the fill plug, and applied pressure with a sturdy ratchet only, no breaker bar. The square snap-on adapter shattered into 3 pieces and the plug did not budge. Long story short I successfully got the plug loose by using a 10mm impact socket (which I had to hammer on) and applied significant pressure with the heavy duty ratchet and eventually the plug broke loose and I was able to remove it.

The perfectly square drain plug was a little different, I used a universal socket (gator grips) and successfully loosened the bolt. I needed to use a breaker bar for this plug and I recommend using 2 people, one to hold steady pressure on the socket at the plug and the other to leverage pressure with the breaker bar. This is what finally worked for me with some very obstinate plugs.

Snap-on is mailing me a replacement socket.