Leaking Clutch master.. Replace? Rebuild kit?

[Jeff K]

My clutch master started leaking. Is there a rebuild kit or crossover part?

If not I can always order the DMC one I guess. Just trying to save a few if possible.

Thanks
Jeff

[Delorean Industries]

My clutch master started leaking. Is there a rebuild kit or crossover part?

If not I can always order the DMC one I guess. Just trying to save a few if possible.

Thanks
Jeff

The part numbers are listed on post 8 of this I believe.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5240-New-clutch-master-cyl-needed&highlight=master+cylinder+rebuild

[Jeff K]

Awesome, thanks Josh!

Sent from my SCH-I605 using Tapatalk 2

[David T]

The rubber parts are very cheap but if the cylinder bores are corroded the new parts will leak soon. If they don't clean up with a light honing you must get new cylinders. In all probability they are leaking BECAUSE the bores got corroded and as the seals passed over the corrosion it tore them up so now they leak. Figure on replacing both cylinders and flush the brake fluid every other year from now on to prevent corrosion. Another option is to have the cylinders sleeved with brass. They will last forever but it is more expensive than just replacing the cylinders (at least the first time anyway).
David Teitelbaum

[Sammy]

Clutch master cylinder rebuild kit
RockAuto Part # 22320
Cost $10.44
Warranty: 30 days
Cross reference vehicle: 1981 AMC Spirit 4.2L 2BL 6cyl

Rebuild kit only. Complete master can no longer be swapped with AMC part due to integrated reservoir on newer units.

[Josh]

I really appreciate this thread. Debating rebuilding or replacing the master, I guess ill take a close look at the bore and determine what I need from there.

[DrJeff]

Is there a rebuild kit or crossover part?

I just completed a rebuild on my master and slave cylinders. The master was the easy one, just one internal seal and the outer boot. The slave has a few more parts, but still manageable. Thankfully my cylinders were in very good condition. The leaking was due to the rubber seals not pressing the sides of the cylinder as 'robustly' as they had before (I'm 99% sure they were the original seals). There was a significant difference in the fit (tight) of the new seals vs the ones that came out.

About the only 'not entirely straightforward' bit I encountered was trying to get the old seals out of the cylinders (once out of the car). Eventually I just turned them upside-down (open side down) and tapped the cylinder against my workbench. The mechanisms inside the cylinders poked out the end and it only took finger pressure to pull them free.

[Sammy]

It takes less than ten seconds to remove the old piston if you give the cylinder a blast of air with an air compressor. If you don't have your own compressor you can just use the one for tires at you local gas station. that's what I did.