Oil pan gasket replacement

[OverlandMan]

I've noticed some light oil leakage around the oil pan gasket. I assume its just another one of those 30+ year old perishable parts that needs replacing. I was looking yesterday with a flashlight and it looks like most of the bolts that hold the pan on are accessible; however, the ones closest to the front of the car look to be rather difficult to get to w/ the piece of the frame right there. I haven't consulting my service manual yet. A quick search here yielded a plethora of results although not really what I was looking for.

My question is: Is replacing the oil pan gasket a pain in the ass? For those of you who have done it, any info is appreciated.

[David T]

It is rare for the pan gasket to leak (especially if it is the original). It is a pain to do. More likely is the oil pressure sending unit on the rear left side of the motor is leaking and it looks like the pan gasket. The oil comes down and then runs around the motor on the "rail" looking like it is the pan gasket.
David Teitelbaum

[OverlandMan]

It is rare for the pan gasket to leak (especially if it is the original). It is a pain to do. More likely is the oil pressure sending unit on the rear left side of the motor is leaking and it looks like the pan gasket. The oil comes down and then runs around the motor on the "rail" looking like it is the pan gasket.
David Teitelbaum

Thanks for the info. I checked the sender unit and its not leaking there; however, the oil pressure sensor (for the warning light) on the other side is pretty oily looking. I assume you'd recommend replacing that first to see if it clears up?

[krs09]

I've noticed some light oil leakage around the oil pan gasket. I assume its just another one of those 30+ year old perishable parts that needs replacing. I was looking yesterday with a flashlight and it looks like most of the bolts that hold the pan on are accessible; however, the ones closest to the front of the car look to be rather difficult to get to w/ the piece of the frame right there. I haven't consulting my service manual yet. A quick search here yielded a plethora of results although not really what I was looking for.

My question is: Is replacing the oil pan gasket a pain in the ass? For those of you who have done it, any info is appreciated.

I ran into the same issue and ended up pulling the motor out to replace the gasket. Im sure there is a easier way but I had a few leaks. You can maybe loosen the engine mounts and prop up the engine to get your hands in there. I ended up using RTV and not the oil pan gasket (I've heard too many horror stories about the, leaking down the road) cork is not the greatest. But it sure is not as easy as a job as I thought.. at least with the engine in the car :wink:

[OverlandMan]

I ran into the same issue and ended up pulling the motor out to replace the gasket. Im sure there is a easier way but I had a few leaks. You can maybe loosen the engine mounts and prop up the engine to get your hands in there. I ended up using RTV and not the oil pan gasket (I've heard too many horror stories about the, leaking down the road) cork is not the greatest. But it sure is not as easy as a job as I thought.. at least with the engine in the car :wink:

Yea - that's kinda what I was afraid of. I'll replace the oil sensor and see where that gets me. I sure don't want to pull the motor if I don't have to.

I replaced the oil pan and gasket on a 48 CJ2A. I used a cork gasket and high-temp RTV together to get a good seal. It was a 30 minute job. Too bad this isn't that simple. But maybe I'll luck out and it will just be the sensor leaking down to the pan like David T mentioned.

Thanks for the feedback.

[DMCMW Dave]

I've yet to see an OEM-installed pan gasket leaking. I don't know what they used but it was really good. Probably asbestos. :tongue2:

[Delorean Industries]

I've yet to see an OEM-installed pan gasket leaking. I don't know what they used but it was really good. Probably asbestos. :tongue2:

You are right. It is asbestos based actually. I confirmed this once with the asbestos removal company across the street from my old shop.

[DMC5180]

I've yet to see an OEM-installed pan gasket leaking. I don't know what they used but it was really good. Probably asbestos. :tongue2:

What about a Leak at the Girdle to Block seam?

[krs09]

What about a Leak at the Girdle to Block seam?

I had no seal at all in mine. Looked like the PO used a tiny bit of RTV and it did not seal. After cleaning mine up I used the highly recommended anaerobic sealer. Fingers crossed it doesnt leak. Well see soon enough. With the engine in the car its gotta be a pain in the ass.

[DMCMW Dave]

I had no seal at all in mine. Looked like the PO used a tiny bit of RTV and it did not seal. After cleaning mine up I used the highly recommended anaerobic sealer. Fingers crossed it doesnt leak. Well see soon enough. With the engine in the car its gotta be a pain in the ass.

There is no gasket there. Can't be, it sets the bearing fit. .

I've only seen them leak there if someone took it apart and used RTV to seal it.

[jawn101]

There is no gasket there. Can't be, it sets the bearing fit. .

I've only seen them leak there if someone took it apart and used RTV to seal it.

Someone like me.... :( What should we use instead, Dave? I have to address all these leaks and will not be making any more assumptions this time around.

[krs09]

Someone like me.... :( What should we use instead, Dave? I have to address all these leaks and will not be making any more assumptions this time around.

When I did the job Dave told me to use anaerobic sealer. I havent filled it with oil yet but it looks good.

[jawn101]

When I did the job Dave told me to use anaerobic sealer. I havent filled it with oil yet but it looks good.

That's my guess as well - that stuff worked a treat on the transmission halves. Thanks for the confirmation.

So to sum up, here is my plan:

- Oil pan gasket: OEM/OEM Style gasket, with a thin layer of Right Stuff RTV on it
- Timing cover gasket: OEM/OEM Style gasket, with a thin layer of Right Stuff RTV on it
- Valve cover gaskets: OEM/OEM Style gasket, no sealant required (frequent removal)
- Lower crankcase to short block: Anaerobic sealant with surface prep
- Rear main seal (paper gasket portion) - ??? Paper gasket, with sealant? I think we used standard RTV on this one but I do believe it is still leaking. Can't tell til I get back in there sadly so I'm just going to have replacement parts handy and re-do it anyway.

Any hints on the paper gasket? More anaerobic sealer? I'll have some left I'm sure but like I said, no more assumptions...

[krs09]

That's my guess as well - that stuff worked a treat on the transmission halves. Thanks for the confirmation.

So to sum up, here is my plan:

- Oil pan gasket: OEM/OEM Style gasket, with a thin layer of Right Stuff RTV on it
- Timing cover gasket: OEM/OEM Style gasket, with a thin layer of Right Stuff RTV on it
- Valve cover gaskets: OEM/OEM Style gasket, no sealant required (frequent removal)
- Lower crankcase to short block: Anaerobic sealant with surface prep
- Rear main seal (paper gasket portion) - ??? Paper gasket, with sealant? I think we used standard RTV on this one but I do believe it is still leaking. Can't tell til I get back in there sadly so I'm just going to have replacement parts handy and re-do it anyway.

Any hints on the paper gasket? More anaerobic sealer? I'll have some left I'm sure but like I said, no more assumptions...

Sounds about right to me. I didnt use the oil pan gasket or the timing cover gaskets, just RTV. Ive heard too many stories and backed out of using the gaskets (i work at a dealership and all the guys told me to use RTV and most paper gaskets will leak over time). I put a thin layer of RTV on the valve cover gaskets to be sure and a small layer on the o ring and cam shaft cover seals on the front and back of the heads. I also used a thin layer on the paper gasket around the rear main seal (I just felt like I had to use it). I also used a small amout of pipe sealant on all the threads for all the sensors (Y pipe and both oil pressure sensor and sender). Again I have yet to test it properly but I think we triple checked everything. .. . . I will cry a bucket of tears if I see a drop of oil. Alot of "I also's" in this project. Hopefully the engine saga is coming to a beautiful end.

[jawn101]

Sounds about right to me. I didnt use the oil pan gasket or the timing cover gaskets, just RTV. Ive heard too many stories and backed out of using the gaskets (i work at a dealership and all the guys told me to use RTV and most paper gaskets will leak over time). I put a thin layer of RTV on the valve cover gaskets to be sure and a small layer on the o ring and cam shaft cover seals on the front and back of the heads. I also used a thin layer on the paper gasket around the rear main seal (I just felt like I had to use it). I also used a small amout of pipe sealant on all the threads for all the sensors (Y pipe and both oil pressure sensor and sender). Again I have yet to test it properly but I think we triple checked everything. .. . . I will cry a bucket of tears if I see a drop of oil. Alot of "I also's" in this project. Hopefully the engine saga is coming to a beautiful end.

I am in the exact same boat. I had my engine out last summer to clean up the drips. And it's a huge mess again. I think the oil pan might be leaking with the RTV-only route we installed, and I know for *damn* sure that the timing cover is. It's hard to tell on the oil pan because I'm almost positive the lower crankcase is leaking, so that could be where the drips are coming from.

You used RTV on the rear main paper gasket, or anaerobic?

[krs09]

I am in the exact same boat. I had my engine out last summer to clean up the drips. And it's a huge mess again. I think the oil pan might be leaking with the RTV-only route we installed, and I know for *damn* sure that the timing cover is. It's hard to tell on the oil pan because I'm almost positive the lower crankcase is leaking, so that could be where the drips are coming from.

You used RTV on the rear main paper gasket, or anaerobic?

I used RTV on the paper rear main gasket. It does "look" sealed. God I hope that timing cover does not leak. I know the sender and sensor were leaking good, when I first checked it looked like it was coming from the oil pan or timing cover but one was leaking clearly (no copper gasket at all) and the other was seeping. As soon as I get her fired up ill do a little update. Should be by the begining of next week... hopefully..... Good luck:thumbup2:

[jawn101]

I used RTV on the paper rear main gasket. It does "look" sealed. God I hope that timing cover does not leak. I know the sender and sensor were leaking good, when I first checked it looked like it was coming from the oil pan or timing cover but one was leaking clearly (no copper gasket at all) and the other was seeping. As soon as I get her fired up ill do a little update. Should be by the begining of next week... hopefully..... Good luck:thumbup2:

Thanks, you too!

I just talked to Dave S and he recommends anaerobic sealant on the metal to metal portion of the rear main seal plate, and to torque down the bolts to the yoke (metal to metal portion) before tightening the ones that hold the paper gasket in place. This helps avoid a situation where there is still a gap around the upper portion and the plate leaks. I didn't do this the first time around and would bet money that's why my motor is a mess again.

That and the timing cover.

[Delorean Industries]

Thanks, you too!

I just talked to Dave S and he recommends anaerobic sealant on the metal to metal portion of the rear main seal plate, and to torque down the bolts to the yoke (metal to metal portion) before tightening the ones that hold the paper gasket in place. This helps avoid a situation where there is still a gap around the upper portion and the plate leaks. I didn't do this the first time around and would bet money that's why my motor is a mess again.

That and the timing cover.

Absolutely not on that. The hex bolts should be tightened first and the two coming up from the bottom last. Anaerobic is not the way to go either for a sealer as you need a nice bead in the corner where the block/lower cradle/ rear seal housing meet. The anaerobic is only good for machined surfaces, not where three parts are coming together. Permatex right stuff is the only sealer that should be used as well on this area.

[jawn101]

Absolutely not on that. The hex bolts should be tightened first and the two coming up from the bottom last. Anaerobic is not the way to go either for a sealer as you need a nice bead in the corner where the block/lower cradle/ rear seal housing meet. The anaerobic is only good for machined surfaces, not where three parts are coming together. Permatex right stuff is the only sealer that should be used as well on this area.

Oh... crap. I hope I didn't misunderstand him and post something incorrect just then, my apologies if so Dave....