Hot start issue ...Again...uggg

[Ryan S.]

Last December, I purchased D with a severe case of hot start problem. Replaced a fuel accumulator from Harvey but didn't fix the problem. After replacing o-ring, hot start issue went away but I had a constant fuel leak and smell issues. So added Houston's integrated fuel pump and fixed fuel leak through gas tank. Also replaced fuel filter from DMC. After discovering fuel leaks though fuel lines, replaced them with SS fuel lines (9 lines) and new connectors from Harvey. Also replaced air filter. Now I don't smell any fuels but the Hot start issue came back. I replaced o-rings three times already but I still have the Hot start issue. O-rings all looked fine.

Still after 15 min or longer, car won't start unless I keep cranking the engine and pumping the paddle. I cannot pin point when exactly the hot start issue came back. I am guessing that it started some time after SS fuel lines were added.

History
Dec 2013: Hot start - stranded in gas station. After the fill up, car refused to start, no matter what.
Jan 2013: Replaced Fuel accumulator (from Harvey) and o-ring. Install by a mechanic and adjusted ratio. According to the mechanic, o-ring was the cause of hot start.
Feb 2013: Installed a new Integrated Fuel pump (DMC) and cleaned out the gas tank.
Feb 2013: Installed a new fuel filter from DMC.
Mar 2013: Fuel leak near injector site. Leaky fuel lines. Installed new SS fuel lines -9 lines (from Harvey) No more fuel smell.
Mar 2013: New Air filter
Apr 2013: Noticed hot start issue -again.
Apr 2013: Fuel cap (from Autozone) Hot start was there before the fuel cap
Apr 2013: Replaced 0-rings three times but still hot start

I guess, the new fuel accumulator could be bad. I also read that bad TTS could cause hot start. Could fixing fuel leaks cause a hot start issue by having engine to run too rich? Funny that I didn't have any Hot start issue with all sort of fuel leaking from injector sites, fuel pump, and fuel filter.

I would appreciate any feedback and help on this. Thank you

[Bitsyncmaster]

There was a problem with the early pumps DMC sold that caused a hot start issue. Do you get yours upgraded?

[Ryan S.]

I just bought it a few months ago from Julee. I am pretty sure mine is upgraded.

[Some guy]

I heard that if the float is black it is the upgraded one.

The check valve is the problem. it took me clamping the fuel line to find out that i had a bad check valve with mine.

[Ron]

Have you checked that you have pressure on the plate for a while after you shut it off hot (and all of that)?
Do you smell fuel when it fails?

[Ryan S.]

I think mine was black. Dave S from DMCMW can verify this for me since I bought it from him.

[Ron]

What float???

[Ryan S.]

Have you checked that you have pressure on the plate for a while after you shut it off hot (and all of that)?
Do you smell fuel when it fails?
Ron,
Thanks for your reply. Sorry for my ignorance but how do you check pressure on the plate? Is that the metal plate under the air unit box?
No I don't smell fuel when car fails to start. Should I?
Thanks

[Ron]

Yes. It shouild have a slight pressure or resistance when you push down on it, slightly (test briefly because this makes the injectors fire even if the key is off...) it's the #1 indicator of loosing pressure and classic delorean "Hot Start Issues".
You shouldn't smell fuel (That would indicate fuel system may be ok but not being ignited...but if you have a hot start problem there is only vapor being injected, if that, and there would be no fuel smell. Just trying to get a handle on the situation...)

What float?

[Ryan S.]

18464
I think the float is the yellow thing on the photo. I really cannot remember if mine was black or not. I really don't want to take out the unit.

[Ron]

OK, my bad. I thought you guys were talking "Original" v/s upgraded OEM, not the integrated unit(s) (didn't know they already had an upgrade for them).

lol I was thinking "Carburetor???"

See if you have rest pressure (D:01:14 in Searchable Workshop Manual (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?2866-Searchable-Workshop-Technical-Bulletins-and-Volvo-Engine-Manuals)) at the plate.
It doesn't have to be hot to check it...

[Ryan S.]

Thanks Ron. I will try that out when I get home.

[mluder]

Apr 2013: Replaced 0-rings three times but still hot start


Maybe a dumb question - You are replacing with Viton o-rings correct? The standard black are not fuel safe and will essentially fall apart in a few weeks/months.

Cheers
Steven

[Ryan S.]

Yes, it is. I ordered them from Amazon based on Bitsyncmaster's recommendation/posting.
I changed o-rings three times already. When I pull them out, they looked exactly like the new ones. No damages and shapes were intact. Tested hot start immediately after and fails. I guess, I could try to order a different batch or from a different vendor.

[vwdmc16]

is it possible a sliver or chunk of one of the old O rings is still in the distributor? clogging it up?

[Ryan S.]

I don't know about the first one but the ones that I removed were in good shape. No damages.
Fuel leak stopped but hot start came back.

[Ryan S.]

Yes. It shouild have a slight pressure or resistance when you push down on it, slightly (test briefly because this makes the injectors fire even if the key is off...) it's the #1 indicator of loosing pressure and classic delorean "Hot Start Issues".
You shouldn't smell fuel (That would indicate fuel system may be ok but not being ignited...but if you have a hot start problem there is only vapor being injected, if that, and there would be no fuel smell. Just trying to get a handle on the situation...)

What float?
I checked it out last night. Plate had resistance even after car was off for more than 40 minutes. No fuel smell.
Any other suggestions?

[Ryan S.]

I was told that leaky injector can cause a hot start issue. How common is that and how can I find out which injector is leaking (inside) ?
For me, it kind of make sense since my issue started after replacing fuel lines. I replaced lines and connectors but not injectors and seals. It is possible that I damaged or disrupted injectors or seals while replacing lines. That can lead to internal fuel leak and pressure loss???

[Bitsyncmaster]

I was told that leaky injector can cause a hot start issue. How common is that and how can I find out which injector is leaking (inside) ?
For me, it kind of make sense since my issue started after replacing fuel lines. I replaced lines and connectors but not injectors and seals. It is possible that I damaged or disrupted injectors or seals while replacing lines. That can lead to internal fuel leak and pressure loss???

Not likly you caused injectors to leak by changing fuel lines. Did you change the lines on the fuel filter? That is a common source of a leak.

[Ryan S.]

Didn't replace the line for fuel filter but did replaced a fuel filter. I did have a significant leak at the fuel filter connector due to a difference in washer size but got that fixed. I don't really smell fuel anymore after replacing lines and fuel filter.

is it possible to have a fuel leak through a bad injector and cause a hot start?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Didn't replace the line for fuel filter but did replaced a fuel filter. I did have a significant leak at the fuel filter connector due to a difference in washer size but got that fixed. I don't really smell fuel anymore after replacing lines and fuel filter.

is it possible to have a fuel leak through a bad injector and cause a hot start?

Yes a leaking injector can cause hot start problems because you loose rest pressure to quickly. To test for leaking injectors, pull them out, put each in a cup (fuel lines still attached), then jumper your pump for 10 seconds and wait to see if any fuel gets in the cups.

[Ron]

If you don't find a leaking injector, find out how long the rest pressure lasts...
FWIW, the manual calls for 1.7 bar pressure after 10 minutes...but most have pressure for a hour or two...


You have confirmed that you have spark at the plugs when it fails to start, right?
I have seen coils (and connections for that matter) get hot and kill the spark.....

[Ryan S.]

Since I have the integrated fuel pump unit, not sure how to jump the pump and test injector. Dave, do you think I can just pull out injectors and check for any leaks after shut the engine off instead?
Ron, Plate seems to give some resistance after about an hour. I do not know if I have sparks. How do I check that? Yes, I have heard coil issues.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Since I have the integrated fuel pump unit, not sure how to jump the pump and test injector. Dave, do you think I can just pull out injectors and check for any leaks after shut the engine off instead?
Ron, Plate seems to give some resistance after about an hour. I do not know if I have sparks. How do I check that? Yes, I have heard coil issues.

You use a jumper on the RPM relay connector. Jump the brown to white/purple wire to run the pump (don't need key on). If your plate still has pressure after an hour and your hot start problem is less than an hour then your problem is not rest pressure.

[Ron]

+1 Dave


Ron, Plate seems to give some resistance after about an hour. I do not know if I have sparks. How do I check that? Yes, I have heard coil issues.

Easy: A quick "half "check is to get a spare plug wire and plug it into the coil and see if it will jump spark to the block ~1/8 to 1/4" while someone cranks it over. If it does, a more complete check is to take a spare spark plug and plug it into the individual plug wires (Do the ones easy to get to...first anyway). Make sure the body of the plug is touching a good ground (eg the engine block).

[Ryan S.]

Thank you both.

Plate has pressure = not losing fuel pressure = no leak, right? Still don't understand why it starts again fine within 15 minutes mark but goes into a hot start after 15 min.
I'll see if I can check plugs and coils.

Thanks again for your help.

[Farrar]

If, while the engine is hot, you remove the electrical connector from the Cold Start Valve and then try to start the engine, does anything change?

[Ryan S.]

If, while the engine is hot, you remove the electrical connector from the Cold Start Valve and then try to start the engine, does anything change?
Nope. I tried plug swap and also performed rpm relay jumper tricks but car wouldn't start.
It takes about 20-30 seconds of engine cranking to start the car. Once it starts, I can turn it off and restart fine as long as its within 15-20min.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Nope. I tried plug swap and also performed rpm relay jumper tricks but car wouldn't start.
It takes about 20-30 seconds of engine cranking to start the car. Once it starts, I can turn it off and restart fine as long as its within 15-20min.

This sounds like your CSV is bad. Pull it out, put in a jar, pull your white/yellow wire off the resistor pack so your car wont start. Then crank the engine for 10 seconds and see if there is any gas in the jar.

[Spittybug]

If you need one, I have a CSV for sale in the pile of parts I pulled off my car when I went EFI. http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5573-All-my-K-Jet-parts-and-more&p=79609&viewfull=1#post79609

[Ryan S.]

This sounds like your CSV is bad. Pull it out, put in a jar, pull your white/yellow wire off the resistor pack so your car wont start. Then crank the engine for 10 seconds and see if there is any gas in the jar.

If CSV is bad then shouldn't I be having problem with cold start also?

I decided to check fuel pump area last night and I did smell a faint hint of fuel near fuel return /supply lines. But no visible sign of fuel leak. I also checked accumulator area and no fuel smell there. I spent all day under the car for cv boot repair and no smell or sign of leak.
Dave, If fuel tank is not sealed completely, could that cause hot start?
thanks so much

[Bitsyncmaster]

If CSV is bad then shouldn't I be having problem with cold start also?

I decided to check fuel pump area last night and I did smell a faint hint of fuel near fuel return /supply lines. But no visible sign of fuel leak. I also checked accumulator area and no fuel smell there. I spent all day under the car for cv boot repair and no smell or sign of leak.
Dave, If fuel tank is not sealed completely, could that cause hot start?
thanks so much

Fuel tank not sealed would not cause hot start issues. My car only uses the CSV for very cold starting, never in the summer. But other cars are different, depending on mixture and settings.

[Farrar]

Have you checked the Thermo-Time Switch for proper operation?

[Ryan S.]

I think I need to study more on how CSV works. Still don't understand how bad CSV would cause a hot start but ok on other cases.
How do I find out if my TTS is working or not?? I did hear about bad TTS related hot start issues.
Thank you both.

[Farrar]

Unplug the Cold Start Valve and connect a test light or buzzer across the connector's terminals. Make sure the engine is COLD. Remove the wire between the ignition coil and the distributor cap. Turn the key and crank the engine. The test light or buzzer should come on for no longer than twelve seconds. If it is on for longer than that, the Thermo-Time switch is faulty. If it does not come on at all, the thermo-time switch is faulty.

Now try the same test when the engine is hot. The test light or buzzer should NOT come on. If it does, your Thermo-Time switch is faulty.

I wrote this in a hurry so someone may want to check and make sure I got the procedure right and didn't leave out any steps...

[jawn101]

Not to introduce more questions when we're on a good track troubleshooting already, but didn't some folks report pressure issues with the new fuel pump/sender combo installed? I definitely remember reading something about it but do not remember if it ended up being coincidence or what. And I know Ryan recently put this on his car.

[Ryan S.]

Thanks Farrar for that info. I will try that.

Jon, I was thinking about the exact same thing last night. What if it's the new DMC fuel pump unit? How do I test that? I still have the old fuel pump minus the hoses and boot cover. If I clamp the return line, would that test the theory? I don't know if I can ship my fuel pump unit back to Dave S so that he can test it for me or not.

Yesterday, I parked my car on my drive way which has about 15 degree decent. Fuel tank was on low side but not empty. About a couple of hours after I parked, I tried to restart the car, it wouldn't start. Normally, I crank the engine for 20 sec or so and it would eventually start but this time, it took much longer and several tries. During that time, low fuel light was on and fuel gauge was at empty. Once the car started and it was on a flat surface, fuel gauge was at <1/4 mark but the fuel light was still on all the way to gas station.

This thing is driving me crazy. I'm almost considering taking this to the mechanic in North Sacramento before I start replacing parts.

[elfking]

For what its worth I had a bad Termo-Time Switch in mine when I first got it.. it was causing it to do something similar, I was getting it intermittently though... Some cold mornings it just took a few more cranks or would give me hot start issues during the day...

If I am not mistaken the TTS is supposed to only come on when the engine is cold and/or below a certain temperature (this is why it screws into a water / temp source) then when the engine is warm, or at least the coolant is above a certain temperature it should not come on when cranking.. so if you're is faulty and your CSV is turning on every time your car comes on then it would flood the engine. ( or at least try to)

What Farrar is suggesting is a way to confirm when the CSV would be kicking on or not and I think he also said or at least someone did... Being how hot it is out (today.. already 70F here) and living in California you could for your testing purposes disconnect the connector on the CSV and just make sure its secure out of the way.. just to make sure you're not having it come on... I'll try an find the 'steps' that the shop manual has and also post that up for you... but id say pop off the connector from the CSV and leave it unhooked for the day or two and see if it starts correctly when hot.

Ah found it, Page 96 and 97 of the Hybrid Workshop Manual found in the Resources section... I attached the specific pages for you... Then also some extra info on it and its operation on page 102... Just really explaining how it works when... temperature wise etc.. but again I think pulling the connector off the CSV and testing that way might work (unless it is having an issue / stuck open all the time etc)

COLD START CIRCUIT
The cold start circuit provides a richer fuel mixture to facilitate starting a cold engine. The circuit operates only when the engine temperature is below +35°C (95°F) and during the cranking
process.
The cold start valve (1) is of the solenoid-operated type. The winding of an electro-magnet is fitted inside the valve. In the
move'able armature of the electromagnet is forced against a seal by means of a spring. When the magnet is energised, the armature is pulled away from the seat and fuel is allowed to flow through the valve. A special nozzle atomizes the fuel as it leaves the valve and enters directly into the intake manifold.

From Page 102--
ELECTRICAL CIRCUIT FUNCTION
If the engine coolant temperature is below 35°C (95°F) the thermo-time switch is closed providing a ground for the cold start valve.-During cranking conditions, power is supplied to the cold start valve from the starter solenoid, activating the valve to inject additional fuel to the engine. If the cranking process takes longer than 8 to 15 seconds, the thermo-time switch heating element opens the switch, deactivating the cold start valve to prevent the engine from flooding. In this case, the thermo-time switch functions as a time switch.
If the temperature of the engine coolant is above 35°C (95°F) when the starting process is commenced, the thermo-time switch is open eliminating the cold start valve ground. In this case the thermo-time switch functions as an engine coolant temperature switch.

[Ron]

This thing is driving me crazy. I'm almost considering taking this to the mechanic in North Sacramento before I start replacing parts.It would be a lot cheaper to get a pressure tester so you can watch the control pressure...you'll need it in the future anyway ;-)

fwiw, 20 second cranking to start is way to long!

[Ryan S.]

Thanks Brian!!!
I tried disconnecting CSV but still didn't make any differences. Still took about 20 sec to restart from hot. I will try it again tomorrow.

Ron, thanks for your suggestion. I'll see if I can get a pressure tester. I am not sure if I am going to be able to figure it out the cause with a tester.

[DeLorean03]

Guys, I am just trying to help you out here - GET THIS:

http://www.amazon.com/Tool-Aid-33865-K-Jetronic-Injection/dp/B0002SR5NU

While you're at it, buy this too:

http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-Fuel-Injection-Engine-Management/dp/0837603005/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_y

I currently own both, and let me tell you, THAT book is worth its weight in platinum. It tells you how to test pretty much EVERYTHING on our K-Jet systems. No joke, in the near future, I am going to go through each part of the DeLorean's fuel system with the help from this book.

I am not trying to be a jerk or push these items down anyone's throats, but man, they are well worth it.

[jawn101]

Good point there that you MUST get a tester meant to measure K-Jet and other CIS systems. The standard cheap fuel pressure tester kits won't work on our cars.

[DeLorean03]

Good point there that you MUST get a tester meant to measure K-Jet and other CIS systems. The standard cheap fuel pressure tester kits won't work on our cars.

Absolutely, and like I said, not trying to wag my finger at everyone, but those gauges are WELL worth the peace/piece of mind they bring. I haven't used mine yet, but when they are needed, I got them ready to go!

[Ryan S.]

Thanks D03!!!
I just ordered them both. I guess I'll be doing some reading this weekend.

I took out the fuel pump sender combo unit this evening. Every thing looked ok. It had a black floater so must be the updated version.

[DeLorean03]

Thanks D03!!!
I just ordered them both. I guess I'll be doing some reading this weekend.



No problem, bud :thumbup: ! I have just started reading it, and it was well worth the money. The "mysteries" of the K-Jet are very well cleared up in that book . You will not be disappointed that you bought it!

[jawn101]

Plus, now all the Nor Cal guys have a fuel pressure gauge to borrow... look out, Ryan; we're coming over. :)

[Ryan S.]

Plus, now all the Nor Cal guys have a fuel pressure gauge to borrow... look out, Ryan; we're coming over. :)
:wrenchin:

[elfking]

Plus, now all the Nor Cal guys have a fuel pressure gauge to borrow... look out, Ryan; we're coming over. :)

You could lock it in a box which only accepts 20 dollar bills and get your money back!

[Ron]

The "mysteries" of the K-Jet are very well cleared up in that book . You will not be disappointed that you bought it!Curious what's in it that isn't in the Workshop Manual or The K-Jetronic Manual (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?352-K-Jetronic-System&p=2639&viewfull=1#post2639) in Resources??

[DeLorean03]

Very thorough troubleshooting of each individual part.

I just looked at the KJet pdf. For me, that was way intensive in the theory department. I just - I work better with action --> impact --> result. That pdf looked a lot like textbooks from EE school, and I get bored very quickly.

Here's a couple pages that made me go "thank you thank you thank you...."

18692

18693

18694

I also like that this is tangible and portable. Smart phones are nice and all, but nothing beats having a physical copy of a book for troubleshooting or simple studying for me. Just my preference.

I just think the book is more for the "layman" like me. There are some ppl that are super-skilled at very technical stuff. I need it "dumbed down" for me (: ...

[Ron]

Looks well done...

[Ryan S.]

I am happy to report that the issue has been resolved. Book and the fuel pressure gauge were very helpful.(Thanks to D03 and Ron) Also Dave S steered me to the right direction in identifying the cause.

Drum roll please... And the Hot Start award goes to.... :drummer:

It was my new integrated fuel pump unit. For some reason, this 4 months old fuel pump wouldn't hold pressure and pressure gauge confirmed it. I suspect a check valve failure. I just installed a replacement pump (still under warranty) tonight, and no more hot start. :nana1:

I have to say, I tend to attract defective units from all vendors. First was defective struts, defective wings a loft, and now a defective fuel pump. :banghead: Anyways, I need to stay positive.... I am just happy that my hot start issue is gone, finally.

[DeLorean03]

Great stuff, man! Glad to hear all is well with your car :thumbup:!

[Ron]

:hippo:

[David T]

You are not the first one on this list to have trouble with the new fuel pump assembly. It makes you wonder how much trouble they are having with this part.
David Teitelbaum

[elfking]

Yikes... After how loud my old pump was the other day I was just thinking I would order this new setup... Rather then deal with the pickup tube / baffle mess but maybe ill rethink that... Didn't realize people were having issues with it...

Glad you got your issue solved and can start to trust it will start if you take it out somewhere !

[Ron]

I heard that if the float is black it is the upgraded one.

The check valve is the problem. it took me clamping the fuel line to find out that i had a bad check valve with mine.
About how long ago was that?

======

Ryan,
Did your defective pump unit have a black float? The replacement one?

[Ryan S.]

Yes, it had a black float. Right one is the defective unit and the left one is the replacement.
I heard that they pulled all the defective ones now. If mine fails again after warranty is over, I can always add this. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/atx-cv8000/overview/

http://farm3.staticflickr.com/2862/8750810077_66649d3784_c.jpg

[rothsean]

Have you checked the Thermo-Time Switch for proper operation?

Where is the TTS? I have a similar issue, when the outside air temp is above 85 degrees I seem to have a harder time starting. It always starts, but when I do a hot start it sometimes runs rough for a few seconds or takes a few extra cranks to start.

[Chris Burns]

Where is the TTS? I have a similar issue, when the outside air temp is above 85 degrees I seem to have a harder time starting. It always starts, but when I do a hot start it sometimes runs rough for a few seconds or takes a few extra cranks to start.

Located underneath the waterpump. Brass colored sensor.

[DeLorean03]

Right one is the defective unit and the left one is the replacement.
I heard that they pulled all the defective ones now.

You sure about that? I ask because I have one that looks very similar to the one on the right (mine has the orange hoses as well).

[Ryan S.]

They used to be white in the beginning but discolored to orange/brown after 4 months in tank.

[David T]

After seeing how discolored the hoses are, it may be the check valves are having a hard time because of the Ethanol. They are alright in the beginning but over time the alcohol attacks the rubber and deteriorates it to the point that it leaks. This can be especially bad in cars that are used infrequently and the fuel gets stale. This is just a guess. I would expect the parts would be made of materials resistant to the effects of the "new gas" but then again that is another guess.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

I was told that the units with bad check valves were bad immediately, as in DOA. Not a failed over time situation. Besides, Ryan's was only in the tank for a short period and he drives the car pretty frequently. I don't think rubber could break down *that* fast. Plus, these are modern-era (GM, I believe) pumps with light modifications for our purpose, so I would also expect they are made of suitable materials.

[David T]

I could agree with you except that you saw how discolored the two hoses became and the float was changed quickly too. If the rubber for the check valve is not compatible it wouldn't take long to fail because of the stress it is under. Anyway , it is just conjecture for now but the fact remains DMCH is having issues with the check valves on their new integrated pump unit. What a bummer if it was all replaced to solve a hot restart problem and it quickly reoccurred! I would be pissed after spending all those bucks! As Rube Goldberg as the old fuel pump set-up is, properly installed, it works! Another possibility is the check valve they are using is not meant to be used for the high pressures the K-Jet system uses. Higher than the typical GM systems.
David Teitelbaum

[Tillsy]

Whoa, there are problems with some of the early units?!

Mine is from May/June last year - it had the black float but so did Racerx? I have a pressure loss issue when at rest but I've always considered it to be a problem with my accumulator (have a replacement but never gotten around to fitting yet)...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=19720&d=1370677323

[DMC5180]

QUESTION: If you have one of these NEW Pump/Combo systems and the Pump Unit Fails After Warranty runs out. Are you Forced to buy A whole new Kit Or can you just get buy replacement pump/combo unit ONLY and reuse the electronic conversion box/ Clamps, hose connections, etc? This assumes your original stuff is reusable.

[jawn101]

QUESTION: If you have one of these NEW Pump/Combo systems and the Pump Unit Fails After Warranty runs out. Are you Forced to buy A whole new Kit Or can you just get buy replacement pump/combo unit ONLY and reuse the electronic conversion box/ Clamps, hose connections, etc? This assumes your original stuff is reusable.

Great big +1 to this. The kit is very expensive and includes a lot of fail-proof parts - it would be very frustrating to have to replace the whole thing for all that cash.

Also, if the hot start check valve problem turns out to be chronic and recurring, I am curious what Houston will do to make it right by all the folks who have bought these kits.

[DMCMW Dave]

The pump can be replaced separately at relatively low cost. You wound not need the whole assembly again. James may need to chime in on the cost, I'm not sure what it will be.

[Tillsy]

Is there a known time period when the new pump assembly came with a fail-prone check valve, and were all customers who ordered during that period contacted?

Also, my last three fills have been to the absolute top but the gauge is only reading 3/4 - anyone else finding that? It used to sit a little above "F" when I filled her to that point.

[DeLorean03]

Is there a known time period when the new pump assembly came with a fail-prone check valve, and were all customers who ordered during that period contacted?



Hard to say. I ordered mine in Jan 2013, and I got one with a bad check valve - just diagnosed it on Friday. Getting a new unit at DMCMW's open house this Saturday.

[Tillsy]

I know of a local who also came up with his own check valve solution as he was having problems with his new pump unit, I will have to let him know this is a known fault (I won't say recall as it doesn't look to have been handled that way?).

[Ryan S.]

Here is a fix. It costs less than $40. I am not sure which one (CKV5 or CKV7) works with the DMC pump.

http://www.surrauto.com/documents/CKV5CKV7.pdf

[jawn101]

Here is a fix. It costs less than $40. I am not sure which one (CKV5 or CKV7) works with the DMC pump.

http://www.surrauto.com/documents/CKV5CKV7.pdf

I think the CKV5 is most likely as the hoses were 5/16"