Idiot lights not operating

[sdg3205]

I find this odd.

My idiot lights (directional/hazard, headlamps, high beams, brake, seatbelt, door ajar) are not working.

The battery light works, as do the illumination lights for the cluster itself.

Checked all the usual suspects including fuses, relays, grounds, back of the binnacle circuit board, bulbs etc.

Maybe I missed a ground?

Any ideas?

[Ron]

Those things are mostly on separate circuits, including how they are grounded, so I would guess a bad connection at a instrument panel plug (especially if the exterior lights are working properly.).

[sdg3205]

You're thinking its still one of the plugs behind the binnacle Ron?

[DMC5180]

Dave,

Most of those items share common trace grounds with the Instrument illumination lights. If the illumination lights work it's not the ground.

I just went through my cluster a couple weeks ago. With the first power up of the spring I had several items not working (lights, temp gauge) I just needed to thoroughly clean ALL contact points. It's back to 100% now.

What all did you do to the cluster prior to the items not working?

[sdg3205]

Well, I can't recall if these lights ever worked. This is 2510, my restoration.

I had the cluster apart to do the trip reset, but other than that its just been business as usual.

I've made 2 efforts to gently pry the contacts out on the binnacle plugs to ensure they're making proper connection with the circuit board but I've seen no improvement.

It's very bizarre.

[DMC5180]

Since it's the resto project, I would Independently verify all Bulbs and socket holder contacts. I had to clean (emery board ALL contact points) on mine in order to ensure 0.09 ohms or less. The contacts had developed a tarnish layer that would show high resistance or open. Then I went through and Tarn-x cleaned with Q-tip ALl of the PC flex circuit Copper areas.

Also cross check the harness plug contact wires for 12V on the the corresponding terminals for those circuits that seem to not be working. Simple 12V test light works good for this. Use the online Schematic for terminal references.

[sdg3205]

Since it's the resto project, I would Independently verify all Bulbs and socket holder contacts. I had to clean (emery board ALL contact points) on mine in order to ensure 0.09 ohms or less. The contacts had developed a tarnish layer that would show high resistance or open. Then I went through and Tarn-x cleaned with Q-tip ALl of the PC flex circuit Copper areas.

Also cross check the harness plug contact wires for 12V on the the corresponding terminals for those circuits that seem to not be working. Simple 12V test light works good for this. Use the online Schematic for terminal references.

Great advice. Thank you!

[DMCMW Dave]

I find this odd.


Maybe I missed a ground?

Any ideas?

This could very easily also be causing your problems with the oil gauge. Clean and verify EVERYTHING on the cluster circuit board and especially the fragile contacts where the plugs are.

[Ron]

You're thinking its still one of the plugs behind the binnacle Ron?
Probably, since some of the things you have that don't work in the panel are also fed by things that do work in the panel (items on the lower/right side of the panel), it seems logical that the problem is "at/in" the panel. You have the same thing WRT ground(s), some things that share a ground in the panel work and some don't.

For example, the Volt Gauge and Left Turn Indicator share a ground (-) in the panel, one works and one don't. So, up until the ground reaches the panel, ground can't be the problem (it's there, else neither would work). Similarly, the Volt Gauge and Seat Belt Light share a feed (12v) in the panel, one works and one don't. So, up until the ground reaches the panel, feed can't be the problem... So, a bad connection at the plug supplying the panel with power and ground (or bad traces in the panel) seems to be the likely source(s) for the problem(s)...
If you add the fact that the Seat Belt Light is controlled by grounding while the Left Turn Indicator is controlled by power, it seems more likely...otherwise you have a slew of problems before getting to the panel...

BUT, never underestimate how weird bad grounds act...use an ice-pick light rather than a volt gauge to test with (a volt gauge doesn't indicate being able to handle a load). And be very careful with checks involving traces in the panel -- they will not survive the briefest of touches in the wrong place!

[Ron]

This could very easily also be causing your problems with the oil gauge. I don't see the Oil Gauge's ground being involved with the other problems since it uses ground (via the sensor) for control and is independent of all other grounds (other than the main/block...)??

[sdg3205]

He means temp gauge. I think Dave was solving too many problems at once.

[DMC5180]

FYI: If the Key buzzer has been unplugged at the buzzer unit, your seatbelt light will not function either. The ground path is through the buzzer unit.

[sdg3205]

Buzzer is rock solid!

I'm working for the next few days and won't be able to trouble shoot until Friday.

I think the next step as suggested is to give the binnacle plus and circuit board a good cleaning with emery paper and alcohol.

[DMCMW Dave]

I think Dave was solving too many problems at once.

It happens. . . :sad30:

[DMC5180]

Buzzer is rock solid!

I'm working for the next few days and won't be able to trouble shoot until Friday.

I think the next step as suggested is to give the binnacle plus and circuit board a good cleaning with emery paper and alcohol.

Don't forget the bulb holder contacts. Remove the bulbs from the holders and rub the wire contacts of the bulbs with emery paper. (the goal is remove the oxide layer on the bare wire) Also roll a small piece of emery paper and flatten it so you can work it into the bulb holder Internal contacts.

[Ron]

He means temp gauge. I think Dave was solving too many problems at once.Same difference...

[sdg3205]

Success!

All lights are now working. Some sockets and terminals had to be cleaned as many as 3 times.

Every time I finished and plugged it back in, more lights came back. I jumped the lambda light to confirm it as well.

This is certainly a lesson in oxidization. Just cause you can't see it the second or third time around doesn't mean it's not there.

Thanks everyone for your help.

In other news my temp gauge is still messed up. See my other thread for an update.