Flasher Relay location??

[250in5]

Hi all,

I am going to un-Earth my car from a few years of "rest" and want to update the lighting to LED. I purchased the majority of the lights already and also purchased the recommended "LED" Flasher relay. Where is the location for it? I have a sneaking suspicion that it is under the console from what I've read. Is this the place to start?

Also, looks like the door lights are not working either. Where will I find the relay for it?

Appreciate the help in advance~

[Lukas]

The flasher relay is definitely not under the console!

It's part number 14 on this view http://store.delorean.com/c-283-3-6-2-combination-switches.aspx

So just above the steering column, and below the binnacle.

It's hard to see, maybe you have to lie on your back to get at it, but I changed mine all by feel and the above diagram.

[Mike F]

It is under the dash on the driver's side, on a plate to the left of the steering column. It's pretty easy to spot; it's really the only relay in the area. if yours is original it will say "Lucas" on the top. Turn the hazards (or either the left or right blinker) on and you'll hear it clicking. A word of caution- be very, very careful when removing it. It's not in a traditional socket, and the connectors that it is plugged into are likely very brittle. Wiggle it too much, use too much force, or really even look at it funny and they can break. Be patient and gentle.

As for the door lights, have you made sure that the triggers are connected?

[Jonathan]

18472

You can see it here. The wiper delay bracket it mounts to is meant to be stuck up to the side of the pedals assembly. It might be hanging down on your car, like it is on others.

18473

Ahem.... hmmmm, confused myself there for a minute. Correction, you should have been able to see the relay in that first picture. It would have been the last thing screwed on to the bracket on the right side but it isn't there.

My second picture shows it from a slightly different angle. And what I meant by hanging down. Please excuse the dust. This was prior to me getting the chance to pretty my little girl up :)

[Rich]

Also, looks like the door lights are not working either. Where will I find the relay for it?


There's no relay for the door lights. As noted, you can start with the door switches and their connections. The cause might be something else, too.

You might as well familiarize yourself with the wiring diagram for the car as you start this resurrection project.


LINK: Wiring Diagram (http://vin559.com/Documents/DeLorean%20Wiring%20Schematic%20COLOR.pdf)

The 6 door lights are in quadrants J4 and J5 on the diagram.

[250in5]

Thanks Guys, I'm glad I didn't delve any deeper into this.

As far as the door lights, the only thing that I saw unplugged under the dash was 2 small purple wires (I assume) go to the door plungers for sound perhaps? Definitely not something that I had ever worked on and I have owned it for 13 years.

I will keep you abreast of the "situation" to see if I can hammer this out.

thanks again,

Korry

[Jonathan]

Thanks Guys, I'm glad I didn't delve any deeper into this.

As far as the door lights, the only thing that I saw unplugged under the dash was 2 small purple wires (I assume) go to the door plungers for sound perhaps? Definitely not something that I had ever worked on and I have owned it for 13 years.

I will keep you abreast of the "situation" to see if I can hammer this out.

thanks again,

Korry

The door plungers are what turn your door lights on and off. They are the light switch, if you will. Follow the wiring diagram posted here and connect those purple wires again. This should allow you to complete the circuit and see some change in your door lights. You may still have other issues, such as a bulb burnt out or wire chewed or something, but this will allow you to figure it out.

Oh, ya, you may also find out if your door buzzer works when you do this. If that sounds about right, leave them plugged in. If not, unplug one of the ones on the drivers side and the noise will stop but the lights will stay on.

EDIT: In addition to the complete wiring diagram, here's the door lights schematic. I had thought the second drivers side switch was on there somewhere, but I can't seem to find it. You can see the ignition buzzer on the second schematic, but no switch. I had thought it was related to that, but maybe someone else can clarify?

1851118512

[250in5]

Thanks! I will get these plugged back in and keep you posted! I appreciate the help very much.

[Shep]

A word of caution- be very, very careful when removing it. It's not in a traditional socket, and the connectors that it is plugged into are likely very brittle. Wiggle it too much, use too much force, or really even look at it funny and they can break. Be patient and gentle.Just wanted to share a tip in case you break it like I did: the pins on the relay are in an almost identical configuration to the pins on an H4 bulb. Auto stores carry just the plug for H4 bulbs. All you need to make this work is a small screwdriver to finesse the pins into their proper positions while still having gripping power so the relay doesn't fall out. Only takes about five minutes -- the spacing is only a millimeter or two off between the two types of plugs. Once you get the relay fitting into the H4 plug, give it a light tug, and tighten the pins if it comes out. Repeat until solidly connected. I do recommend taking the kneepad off for better access during this process (just the one on the door side; it's only held on by one nut in each of the four corners).

That being said, if you've already broken the plug, take the pins out from the broken plug one by one and plug them on the relay you want to test, then when all the pins are on the new relay, push the hazard switch and verify it works. I found that the relay I got needed two of the wires swapped around, so I spliced it into the new configuration when doing it. Check the schematic on the new relay you bought to figure out the wiring -- the black wire is ground, the doubled-up wire is to the lights, and the third one is the positive.

So those of you who have broken your plugs: just grab the cheapest plug for an H4 bulb you can source locally and splice it in place. The only problem is reattachment since they usually don't come with screw holes, but a well-placed zip tie sure beats a broken plug! :)

[aipri]

Bringing this one back from the dead because I attempted to switch out my flasher relay today so I could upgrade to LEDs. I found the relay and actually had no issues taking it out, the plug is in great shape and was not brittle. However, when I put the new relay in, it didn't work. I purchased it from superbrightleds.com and I did notice that the power and ground are on opposite sides of the original. So are you guys taking the plug apart and switching the wires? Or is there another relay with he same layout?

[Shep]

Bringing this one back from the dead because I attempted to switch out my flasher relay today so I could upgrade to LEDs. I found the relay and actually had no issues taking it out, the plug is in great shape and was not brittle. However, when I put the new relay in, it didn't work. I purchased it from superbrightleds.com and I did notice that the power and ground are on opposite sides of the original. So are you guys taking the plug apart and switching the wires? Or is there another relay with he same layout?Swap the two pins on the harness as necessary. I had to do this same thing, except with my headlights (which use the same plug actually). It's fairly simple to do though with the existing plug -- unplug the relay, get a small flat-head screwdriver (the size used for eyeglasses, small electronics, etc.), and press it in from the rear of the harness, the side the wires are on. Then pull the wires out. Do NOT use force, it should come out easily.

Basically there's a small "barb" on each metal spade that holds it in place. Pushing this barb in so it's flat, the pin slides out freely. Then gently push the barb back out with a screwdriver and re-insert in the new location. You'll have to do the same thing to your headlights if you ever upgrade from sealed beam to H4, for the same exact reason (pinout is different). As long as the plug is intact and the relay is the right size, you should be able to swap wires using that method.

[Tillsy]

Bringing this one back from the dead because I attempted to switch out my flasher relay today so I could upgrade to LEDs. I found the relay and actually had no issues taking it out, the plug is in great shape and was not brittle. However, when I put the new relay in, it didn't work. I purchased it from superbrightleds.com and I did notice that the power and ground are on opposite sides of the original. So are you guys taking the plug apart and switching the wires? Or is there another relay with he same layout?

I got mine from SuperBright and had no issues at all?

[aipri]

Swap the two pins on the harness as necessary. I had to do this same thing, except with my headlights (which use the same plug actually). It's fairly simple to do though with the existing plug -- unplug the relay, get a small flat-head screwdriver (the size used for eyeglasses, small electronics, etc.), and press it in from the rear of the harness, the side the wires are on. Then pull the wires out. Do NOT use force, it should come out easily.

Basically there's a small "barb" on each metal spade that holds it in place. Pushing this barb in so it's flat, the pin slides out freely. Then gently push the barb back out with a screwdriver and re-insert in the new location. You'll have to do the same thing to your headlights if you ever upgrade from sealed beam to H4, for the same exact reason (pinout is different). As long as the plug is intact and the relay is the right size, you should be able to swap wires using that method.

Thanks for the info, I guess I will have to try that, not going to be fun while wedged under the steering column.

[aipri]

I got mine from SuperBright and had no issues at all?

Really? Do you remember if the polarity of the pins was reversed from the original relay?

[DMC5180]

There are different types of electronic flashers available in the same 3 pin configuration. They are not all the same. You my have gotten your flasher from SBLED's that does not mean it is the correct one for the application. I made the mistake the first time around of getting one that was for a Heavy Duty application. It was made for trucks and trailers the Lights would come ON but not flash. I took it back and they replaced it with this unit.

I use this one for my LED signals TRIDON EP-35 google it. You can probable get one at your local Auto parts store which is where I got mine. this one has the traditional audible CLICK sound. Some versions are silent, but because I have a hard time seeing the indicator lights flashing, I wanted to here the audible click. Works flawlessly. It was about $11 IIRC

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33343&stc=1

[aipri]

There are different types of electronic flashers available in the same 3 pin configuration. They are not all the same. You my have gotten your flasher from SBLED's that does not mean it is the correct one for the application. I made the mistake the first time around of getting one that was for a Heavy Duty application. It was made for trucks and trailers the Lights would come ON but not flash. I took it back and they replaced it with this unit.

I use this one for my LED signals TRIDON EP-35 google it. You can probable get one at your local Auto parts store which is where I got mine. this one has the traditional audible CLICK sound. Some versions are silent, but because I have a hard time seeing the indicator lights flashing, I wanted to here the audible click. Works flawlessly. It was about $11 IIRC

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33343&stc=1


Thanks for the info! I will look for that relay