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krs09
05-02-2013, 12:00 AM
I have no idea what this is or the two plugs that lay on my driver floor. The PO installed a aftermarket cruise control system. I disconnected it in the engine bay and followed the wires to this module. The good news is I did track a few wires going into this unit but have no idea what the rest of these wires do. I do know my Tach,blower motor,radio,power mirrors and ac does not work. I do have a on going high idle issue and can only think this module cant help my problems. Any ideas what this unit does or the two plugs on my floor. I guess ill have to rip my interior apart to get it out. Any thoughts on how to get around this huge pain in my ass. If my tachometer doesnt work will that throw off my idle?? Is it worth the time to remove it?? Thanks in advance.
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Jonathan
05-02-2013, 12:09 AM
That third picture looks to be the antenna wire.

No definitive comments on the first two pictures... well, other than they certainly used a colourful assortment of wires :) The lone red wire in the 2nd picture likely doesn't belong (original design that is). My car had something like this and it was either related to some PO running a dedicated fuel pump wire directly to the battery, or it was to do with a mechanical siren/alarm. Both got ripped out regardless.

Rich
05-02-2013, 12:26 AM
...The good news is I did track a few wires going into this unit but have no idea what the rest of these wires do. I do know my Tach,blower motor,radio,power mirrors and ac does not work. I do have a on going high idle issue and can only think this module cant help my problems. Any ideas what this unit does or the two plugs on my floor. I guess ill have to rip my interior apart to get it out. Any thoughts on how to get around this huge pain in my ass. If my tachometer doesnt work will that throw off my idle?? Is it worth the time to remove it??

OK, you know what this module used to do and now it's time to rip it out and try to put the wiring back the way it was. There seem to be quite a few tap connectors and you can start by prying those off one by one and making sure the OEM wires they tapped are not damaged.

Unlikely this has much to do with the mirrors, radio, blower or A/C. Not sure about the tach.

Cannot tell which two plugs on the floor you are referring to.

Am doubting this module has much to do with the high idle, but am not completely sure. Cruise modules do not look for or deliver idle signals, or do they?

Would expect that until you get all of the wiring close to stock you'll have trouble diagnosing problems in the future. Fortunately there are good wiring diagrams to guide your purge. You know to look for them in the Resources forum, right?

krs09
05-02-2013, 01:02 AM
OK, you know what this module used to do and now it's time to rip it out and try to put the wiring back the way it was. There seem to be quite a few tap connectors and you can start by prying those off one by one and making sure the OEM wires they tapped are not damaged.

Unlikely this has much to do with the mirrors, radio, blower or A/C. Not sure about the tach.

Cannot tell which two plugs on the floor you are referring to.

Am doubting this module has much to do with the high idle, but am not completely sure. Cruise modules do not look for or deliver idle signals, or do they?

Would expect that until you get all of the wiring close to stock you'll have trouble diagnosing problems in the future. Fortunately there are good wiring diagrams to guide your purge. You know to look for them in the Resources forum, right?

I do. I have a beautiful colored one. I am just terrified to deal with the wiring..

Spittybug
05-02-2013, 09:58 AM
I do. I have a beautiful colored one. I am just terrified to deal with the wiring..

Good luck with Delorean ownership in that case!!! It has been my experience that Rich is right. Rip out and replace can be much quicker and more reliable than trying to trace and undo.

Starglider
05-02-2013, 06:17 PM
I have no idea what this is or the two plugs that lay on my driver floor. The PO installed a aftermarket cruise control system. I disconnected it in the engine bay and followed the wires to this module.

Was it broken or did you just not like the look of it?


I do know my Tach,blower motor,radio,power mirrors and ac does not work.

Have you checked your fuses and relays.


I do have a on going high idle issue and can only think this module cant help my problems.

Cruise control units normally tap the line from the distributor to the rev counter and drive a vacuum servo. If you disconnected the servo the control module can't affect the engine (assuming it isn't wired into any other part of the ECU, which it won't be if it's a generic unit).


If my tachometer doesnt work will that throw off my idle?

The tacho gauge being broken won't affect it, but a break in the RPM wire between the engine bay and the ECU will.

krs09
05-03-2013, 10:40 AM
Was it broken or did you just not like the look of it?



Have you checked your fuses and relays.



Cruise control units normally tap the line from the distributor to the rev counter and drive a vacuum servo. If you disconnected the servo the control module can't affect the engine (assuming it isn't wired into any other part of the ECU, which it won't be if it's a generic unit).



The tacho gauge being broken won't affect it, but a break in the RPM wire between the engine bay and the ECU will.

Well I didnt want anything that wasnt stock that was installed by the PO. I did find a cable that was hooked up to the servo (cruise control) but was dissconnected at the other end so i just wanted to remove it compeletly.

I replaced all the fuses and relays (update kit from DMCH). The one thing is did notice is the one big relay was s differtent color, old one was green and the replacement is blue (dont remember which relay). Maybe i should switch the two to see if there is any difference.

I wish I knew how to test the tach itself. It is weird.. The tach has been stuck at 3000rpms but every once in a while when I turn the key to get power but not to fire the engine the tach will drop to 0rpms like it works, when the engine is turned on it shoots right to 3000rpms and sticks there whether I rev it or not. I hate eletrical stuff - im just stupid when it comes to this s*#t.

Thanks, I was worried if the tach doesnt work id never get my idle right.

I have a video that nick helped me post that you can hear the engine screaming titled "just a quick video"

Thanks for all the tips.

Jonathan
05-03-2013, 11:07 AM
I replaced all the fuses and relays (update kit from DMCH). The one thing is did notice is the one big relay was s differtent color, old one was green and the replacement is blue (dont remember which relay). Maybe i should switch the two to see if there is any difference.

Did you install the replacement relays and fuses based on a page of instructions that came with it? Generally, many of those components are meant to go in particular places as some of them are unique amongst the others. I don't recall what the DMCH instructions looked like (I installed the same kit a few years ago and don't see an electronic copy of the page in my files to post here). Have you compared your fuse and relay area to the standard design one depicted on this drawing?

18798

EDIT: post a photo of your fuse and relay area on the forum here and we'll have a quick look.

D Knight
05-03-2013, 11:14 AM
The one black connector with 2 green wires is the old brake light wiring. Originally it was a switched power feed circuit where the key had to be on for the stop lamps to work. It was a factory running change. Mine has this rudundant wiring in it too. You can just leave it alone.

krs09
05-03-2013, 11:45 AM
Did you install the replacement relays and fuses based on a page of instructions that came with it? Generally, many of those components are meant to go in particular places as some of them are unique amongst the others. I don't recall what the DMCH instructions looked like (I installed the same kit a few years ago and don't see an electronic copy of the page in my files to post here). Have you compared your fuse and relay area to the standard design one depicted on this drawing?

18798

EDIT: post a photo of your fuse and relay area on the forum here and we'll have a quick look.

I did. It was like my bible. I did double check all the locations but who knows if the PO moved some stuff around(hate that guy). It does look like the old RPM relay was a different color (green) and had volvo stamped on it.

David T
05-03-2013, 11:46 AM
On the subject of non-stock electronics and wiring and what to do with it, the only way I would NOT remove it is if:

a) you have all of the original documentation on how to install and use it
b) it works
c) it was installed neatly and correctly
d) the company will still support it
e) you actually want it and will use it

If you cannot say yes to all 5 conditions you should carefully dissect it from the car. This typically applies to cruise control, alarms, and remote unlocking systems but also to aftermarket radios and creative wiring in the fuel pump circuit. It could be a lot of work removing an alarm but it would be even more work trying to fix it. Problems with an alarm can range from killing your battery to preventing you from starting the car (usually at the worst possible time).
David Teitelbaum

krs09
05-03-2013, 11:48 AM
The one black connector with 2 green wires is the old brake light wiring. Originally it was a switched power feed circuit where the key had to be on for the stop lamps to work. It was a factory running change. Mine has this rudundant wiring in it too. You can just leave it alone.

Thanks.. Theres one thing I dont have to worry about:yesss:

Ron
05-03-2013, 12:13 PM
I wish I knew how to test the tach itself.

Disconnect it and refer to the following drawing:
NOTE: Be very careful that you have the right orientation (front is mirror image to back -- Trace the wire colors from the plug going to the instrument panel if in doubt!) Disconnect all of the panel plugs if you haven't remove the tach itself (you should to test "tach itself" ;-).

Connect:
Green = 12V(+)
Black = Ground(-)
White/Slate = Coil (-), Negative side!
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