Need help diagnosing overheating issue

[jdavies77]

Had my car sold via Ebay, the guy who came to get it felt he could drive it from MN to FL. The car hasn't seen 1,000 miles in 8 years, but he thinks it can do 2,000 in 3 days. (Genius)

Anyway, while he was exploring the car and had it idling, he turned on the defrost and within a few minutes the car began to overheat. I immediately shut it off and he said the deal was off and went on his way. (Yeah, I know, Ebay is a binding contract and the fix will probably be less than $20)

So I replaced the thermostat to no avail. The fan is working under the dash, the fan speed changes when you click through the 4 speeds. However whether on vent or defrost, no air can be felt coming from the vents. The little air that is coming out is cold, not hot.

I've bled by opening the radiator drain until it a steady flow, opened the drain on the passenger side of the radiator that had been added, opened the bleeder on the thermostat as well. All this and the car still overheats.

I also noticed the fans aren't kicking in, I put a jumper wire on the otterstat and that didn't do anything to kick the fans on either.

Not sure if the 2 issues are of the same issue, but I'm assuming the fans not coming on is causing the overheating. Why there's no heat is beyond me as even if I had all the air out of the system, I would think the fans would still kick on.

Any help would be great..

[dmc6960]

Had my car sold via Ebay, the guy who came to get it felt he could drive it from MN to FL. The car hasn't seen 1,000 miles in 8 years, but he thinks it can do 2,000 in 3 days. (Genius)

Anyway, while he was exploring the car and had it idling, he turned on the defrost and within a few minutes the car began to overheat. I immediately shut it off and he said the deal was off and went on his way. (Yeah, I know, Ebay is a binding contract and the fix will probably be less than $20)

So I replaced the thermostat to no avail. The fan is working under the dash, the fan speed changes when you click through the 4 speeds. However whether on vent or defrost, no air can be felt coming from the vents. The little air that is coming out is cold, not hot.

I've bled by opening the radiator drain until it a steady flow, opened the drain on the passenger side of the radiator that had been added, opened the bleeder on the thermostat as well. All this and the car still overheats.

I also noticed the fans aren't kicking in, I put a jumper wire on the otterstat and that didn't do anything to kick the fans on either.

Not sure if the 2 issues are of the same issue, but I'm assuming the fans not coming on is causing the overheating. Why there's no heat is beyond me as even if I had all the air out of the system, I would think the fans would still kick on.

Any help would be great..

The defrost had no affect on the overheating. That would be exclusively due to the fans not coming on. You can bleed the system to to your hearts content, but if the fans never turn off the radiator will never sink the heat. Odds are this problem is electrical, in the electrical bay behind the passenger seat (since you jumped the otterstat and they still didn't work). Its a complicated and sometimes confusing setup from stock, but a few well known fixes really shores it up. I could assist with this if I can find some free time, but I don't think I'll have any until NEXT weekend.

The air vents are not blowing air for multiple possible reasons. Could be no vacuum into the mode switch, vacuum connections loose off the back of the mode switch, vacuum lines incorrectly hooked up to the mode switch, or the fan could be the wrong type (spinning backwards and/or backwards squirrel cage blower).

The lack of heat could be a blockage in the heater lines, incorrectly (or not at all) attached heater lines, a stuck-on hot water shutoff (unlikely), testing it only with the AC on max (which shuts off the hot water), incorrectly hooked up vacuum lines from the mode switch causing the hot water to shutoff on a selection other than Max AC, or the temperature select cable isn't connected to the damper and/or switch.

[Chris Burns]

So, the car is still for sale?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Post a photo of your fan fail relay socket. It's the blue socket at the far left side. We hope you don't have the OEM fan fail relay installed. It should have jumpers and those can fall out and stop the fans from working.

[jdavies77]

So, the car is still for sale?

correct, to be relisted as soon as i take care of his minor set back

[Jonathan]

I can speak for two cars I know with cooling fans that didn't come on and both were related to the bottom side connection of the relay had pushed out the back. You know how the wires come up from underneath into the relay receptacle? When you push down on the relay with the male spade ends going into the receptacle, if things aren't lined up well enough, it can push out the female end (the end with the wire on it) from the receptacle. It is not easy to see since it is kind of under that relay tray, but worth a look from my experience. You might be able to feel for it being loose with your fingers. If you need to take the relay tray/strip out, it is typically screwed to the side of the larger tray with a couple screws that are in at about the 3rd and 6th relay. Take the relays out (noting which ones go where) and you'll see the screws. Take the screws out and then you can lift up a bit better on the tray to see what might not be connected underneath.

[LEVY]

Bleed your system, if you have air in your system, coolant might not be circulating, causing your heating system no to work. If you have air in your water pump, coolant would not circulate no matter what. Fans not working may be an old problem not noticed before.

LEVY

[amuderick]

I had a similar problem and the solution turned out to be one that no one on this board ever suggested: a bad diode in the fuse box.

My otterstat was good (tested). I could hear the thermostat pop. But the fans would only click on with the AC.

Anyway, I finally figured it out and the replacement was cheap. You can check it with a continuity tester. Mine had no continuity in either direction. A working diode will flow electricity only one way. Good luck!

[David T]

It is unusual to see a bad diode in that circuit but as you have discovered, it is possible. Typically when troubleshooting you do not go for the most exotic and unusual possibilities first. If the OP rules out all of the "ordinary" problems someone probably would have suggested checking the diodes. As they teach doctors, "When you hear hoofbeats do not think first of Zebras!".
David Teitelbaum

[jdavies77]

[QUOTE=dmc6960;102853] I could assist with this if I can find some free time, but I don't think I'll have any until NEXT weekend.

QUOTE]

That'd be great, I checked the relay panel, looks like it's the original fan fail module in there

[jdavies77]

19051

[Bitsyncmaster]

19051

That fan fail unit should be replaced. Your relays look original also so you may want to get a kit from one of the vendors.

[dmc6960]

Yikes! Well we just found at least part of the problem. I can rig up a jumper for the blue module and re-crimp some eye-bolts for a new breaker. Unless the fans themselves are toast, this should be fixable "on the fly". If the otterstat tests bad that can still be bypassed until a new one is procured. Saturday afternoon or Sunday afternoon?

[jdavies77]

Yikes! Well we just found at least part of the problem. I can rig up a jumper for the blue module and re-crimp some eye-bolts for a new breaker. Unless the fans themselves are toast, this should be fixable "on the fly". If the otterstat tests bad that can still be bypassed until a new one is procured. Saturday afternoon or Sunday afternoon?

Sorry for the delay, not getting notices saying people have replied to my posts.

Whatever day and time works best for you, I can make it work. Thanks!!

[Jonathan]

That fan fail unit should be replaced. Your relays look original also so you may want to get a kit from one of the vendors.

There are also some incorrect fuse sizes in there. Compare to the typical layout and replace as appropriate. This may lead you to finding other surprises but that's not a bad thing if you find other stuff needing to be corrected.

19105

[dmc6960]

.Any help would be great..

Check your PMs.

[kings1527]

19051

Whoa...original fan fail. I'd suggest picking up a fan sequencer from DMC-MW. It'll also replace the fan relay. I had a problem with my fans coming on intermittently when I first picked up my car and it caused my car to get up to 220 F a few times. I installed the fan sequencer and I've never come close to overheating since. It's a genius device. I located that problem to a bad fan relay, and like Dave said you might want to buy a relay update kit to help solve problems like that.

A properly bled coolant system (DPNW bleeder kit is great) along with the fan sequencer and DPNW Toby fans.....a great combination. But I know you're selling the car soon, so maybe disregard the fans.

[TTait]

Whenever your fans are not kicking in, one fast test is to turn the mode switch to AC, and see if they kick in. That will cut your diagnostic procedure almost in half with a 5 second test...

[dmc6960]

I helped with this car today. Fixed up the electrical compartment significantly. Removed the blue fan fail module (failed), replaced with jumper. Replaced cooling fan circuit breaker with new 40A unit. Put in new external fuse holder for #7 which was starting to melt. Rewired the brake light fuse which had been previously mangled with. Replaced all fuses with new and proper rating. Unfortunately, after it was all said and done, the otterstat is also bad, but a replacement is already on hand but ran out of time to replace today. Other than that, the electrical is greatly improved.

[David T]

Using the A/C to confirm operation of the cooling fans is not a very good way. There are a lot of things that could be wrong with the A/C that would prevent it from forcing the cooling fans on. Chief among them is low refrigerant. IMHO the best way to test the cooling fans would be to first jumper the otterstadt switch and move on from there to the relay and fuseblock. DMC6960 you did a good deed. Also check to make sure there is nothing plugged into the hot start relay plug and add a 10 A fuse on the big red wire to the door lock module in place of the CB. Leave the cover off the fuses.
David Teitelbaum

[dmc6960]

Yea, the AC compressor never energized. I tried putting my low pressure gauge on it, but for some reason the low pressure hose had been turned around so the valve was facing down. With the head bolts on the back of the compressor there was not enough space to attach my fitting. ?!? I did not test any of the electricals in the AC circuit to determine if they were working fine.

[jdavies77]

Yea, the AC compressor never energized. I tried putting my low pressure gauge on it, but for some reason the low pressure hose had been turned around so the valve was facing down. With the head bolts on the back of the compressor there was not enough space to attach my fitting. ?!? I did not test any of the electricals in the AC circuit to determine if they were working fine.

I don't think there would be much that could be done with the AC belt broke being in it's current mangled multiple piece state.

I did however manage to snake my way though a load of fuel lines and other parts to remove the intake manifold. There I found 2 loose bolts on the manifold and a line of oil running from the back of the motor to the front along the lower lip of the manifold itself. Giving a great perspective as to where the oil was leaking from and explaining why it was worse while running. I'm going to order an intake and fuel line gasket set and reassemble when the parts arrive.

(For those not in the know, I had a constant oil leak that was present while running, has been getting worse and worse. With a flashlight and a mirror I followed the leak to the VOD, however it was too dark to see deep in there to source the leak.)

[dmc6960]

(For those not in the know, I had a constant oil leak that was present while running, has been getting worse and worse. With a flashlight and a mirror I followed the leak to the VOD, however it was too dark to see deep in there to source the leak.)

Once you had the intake off, were any of the casting recesses filled with oil? Or did it still appear to be coming from the timing cover?

[DMCMW Dave]

..............and a line of oil running from the back of the motor to the front along the lower lip of the manifold itself. Giving a great perspective as to where the oil was leaking from and explaining why it was worse while running. I'm going to order an intake and fuel line gasket set and reassemble when the parts arrive.

(For those not in the know, I had a constant oil leak that was present while running, has been getting worse and worse. With a flashlight and a mirror I followed the leak to the VOD, however it was too dark to see deep in there to source the leak.)


This is a whole heap of Not Good. I presume you've seen this one by now . .. . . .

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6959-VIN-11408-getting-it-back-on-the-road!/page5

There is almost no other way for oil to leak in mass quantities into the valley. Maybe a really bad valve cover or timing gasket but oil tends not to run uphill unless it is pressurized oil.

Best of luck and I hope I'm wrong.

[jdavies77]

This is a whole heap of Not Good. I presume you've seen this one by now . .. . . .

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6959-VIN-11408-getting-it-back-on-the-road!/page5

There is almost no other way for oil to leak in mass quantities into the valley. Maybe a really bad valve cover or timing gasket but oil tends not to run uphill unless it is pressurized oil.

Best of luck and I hope I'm wrong.

Isn't the oil running through the intake pressurized? If both bolts on the passenger side of the intake were loose, wouldn't that case oil to bypass the intake gaskets and leak down into the valley? As far as leaking uphill, I believe the delorean looks as though its stance is lower in the rear than it is up front, therefore oil would leak along the intake and flow to the rear of the car and drip down below the water pump.

Can I turn the car over in its current state to see if any fluids appear in the valley? Or do I run the risk of shooting fuel or oil everywhere? The thread you mentioned states he turned the car over while loojming at the valley, not sure if that's possible.

[kings1527]

Isn't the oil running through the intake pressurized? If both bolts on the passenger side of the intake were loose, wouldn't that case oil to bypass the intake gaskets and leak down into the valley? As far as leaking uphill, I believe the delorean looks as though its stance is lower in the rear than it is up front, therefore oil would leak along the intake and flow to the rear of the car and drip down below the water pump.

I'm not aware of any oil running through the intake during normal operation. To my knowledge, it's a bunch of hot air; like me. The intake gaskets are there to prevent vacuum leaks.

[DMCMW Dave]

Isn't the oil running through the intake pressurized? If both bolts on the passenger side of the intake were loose, wouldn't that case oil to bypass the intake gaskets and leak down into the valley? As far as leaking uphill, I believe the delorean looks as though its stance is lower in the rear than it is up front, therefore oil would leak along the intake and flow to the rear of the car and drip down below the water pump.

Can I turn the car over in its current state to see if any fluids appear in the valley? Or do I run the risk of shooting fuel or oil everywhere? The thread you mentioned states he turned the car over while loojming at the valley, not sure if that's possible.



There is no oil in the intake, it's not even hot air, just air. No water either. With the intake off, clean up the valley area as best you can. Pull the RPM relay (kills the fuel pump) and then turn the engine over with the starter (it will not start with the intake off). If there is a leak in the oil galley you'll see it coming up through the block. Normally no oil should be shooting anywhere, if it is you found the problem.

[jdavies77]

There is no oil in the intake, it's not even hot air, just air. No water either. With the intake off, clean up the valley area as best you can. Pull the RPM relay (kills the fuel pump) and then turn the engine over with the starter (it will not start with the intake off). If there is a leak in the oil galley you'll see it coming up through the block. Normally no oil should be shooting anywhere, if it is you found the problem.

OK, well now I'm back to square one, there was definitely oil along the bottom of the intake, but the port I thought it was coming from the intake although definitely black and looking the culprit has no wet residue in it. So if oil was going through there, I guess that would have to be one serious vacuum leak.

So next I'll figure out where the RPM relay is, that should be easy to source and then find someone to turn it over so I can look for bubbles. I don't suppose there's a way to turn it over from the engine compartment? (wishful thinking)

[dmc6960]

So next I'll figure out where the RPM relay is, that should be easy to source and then find someone to turn it over so I can look for bubbles. I don't suppose there's a way to turn it over from the engine compartment? (wishful thinking)

The RPM relay is not shown on the original image you posted of your electrical bay. Its out of the field of view. Its a 6-wire connection at the rear of the compartment. I dont remember which color yours was but they are typically black or green. I THINK yours was hanging loose and not attached under the metal shelf. Typically it would be the rear most under-mounted module under the shelf.

You can manually jump the starter from the engine compartment. Remove the access cover in on the right side of the engine bay. Find the harness with the smaller 6-pin white connector and unplug it. Find the white/red (white primary with red stripe) pair of wires and put a large-gauge wire tightly into it. Now if you touch that wire to the positive jump start post your starter will fire. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE the tranny is in neutral when doing this! See pin 32 in this diagram (http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2560&d=1310439341).

[kings1527]

19199

Here's a picture of mine before I went with Dave's solid state relay (which looks the same). Like Jim said, some were black, too. As you open up the relay compartment, it's toward the bulkhead and quite possibly underneath the metal relay compartment tray.

[jdavies77]

The RPM relay is not shown on the original image you posted of your electrical bay. Its out of the field of view. Its a 6-wire connection at the rear of the compartment. I dont remember which color yours was but they are typically black or green. I THINK yours was hanging loose and not attached under the metal shelf. Typically it would be the rear most under-mounted module under the shelf.

You can manually jump the starter from the engine compartment. Remove the access cover in on the right side of the engine bay. Find the harness with the smaller 6-pin white connector and unplug it. Find the white/red (white primary with red stripe) pair of wires and put a large-gauge wire tightly into it. Now if you touch that wire to the positive jump start post your starter will fire. MAKE ABSOLUTELY SURE the tranny is in neutral when doing this! See pin 32 in this diagram (http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2560&d=1310439341).

You had mentioned that the reason I'm not getting heat is because you believed there was a chance the heater lines were crossed. Now that I've got it apart, can you give me an idea of where the lines should go?

I see a line coming off the stainless reservoir and going to a tee, from there it splits to the front of the car and the other to the drivers side behind the distributor. The tube that runs through the valley is connected to a hose that runs to the front of the car as well.

On another note, I attempted to swap out the otterstat, however once disconnecting the hanger I slipped and heard the hanger hit the ground, from there I'm not sure where it bounced. Must bounce like a football as I can't see it anywhere, knowing my luck, it bounced back into the engine compartment and is hanging on something.

[Ron]

You had mentioned that the reason I'm not getting heat is because you believed there was a chance the heater lines were crossed. Now that I've got it apart, can you give me an idea of where the lines should go?

http://store.delorean.com/c-363-7-1-3-heating-system.aspx (http://store.delorean.com/c-363-7-1-3-heating-system.aspx)

[jdavies77]

http://store.delorean.com/c-363-7-1-3-heating-system.aspx (http://store.delorean.com/c-363-7-1-3-heating-system.aspx)

For the most part my car is setup just as the diagram depicts, there is however one difference.

Between the reservoir and the Tee coupling to the hot water valve, there's a Tee about 6 inches from the reservoir, this T splits and goes down to a stainless tube that runs to the front of the car. I have noticed in the past an added hose next to the radiator with a drain valve attached. I'm assuming this stainless line runs to the front as an additional drain for maintenance.

[jawn101]

For the most part my car is setup just as the diagram depicts, there is however one difference.

Between the reservoir and the Tee coupling to the hot water valve, there's a Tee about 6 inches from the reservoir, this T splits and goes down to a stainless tube that runs to the front of the car. I have noticed in the past an added hose next to the radiator with a drain valve attached. I'm assuming this stainless line runs to the front as an additional drain for maintenance.

That sounds like an auto-bleeder for the radiator. I wouldn't think that would be an issue, some of the vendors sell them and many of us run them with no problem.

[jdavies77]

So I've managed to disassemble my intake, clean the valley, and now attempting to reassemble. problem is it's been a few weeks since I took it apart and a few "extras" remain.

1. To what spec should I torque the fuel lines on the distributor, yes, I know it's probably been answered beore, but I'm on a cell phone.

2. I have a ground wire coming off the rear engine compartment wall on the left hand side. It's wired into the "resistor block" in back, forgive me for not knowing it's name, I'll just make one up.

3. From the wiring harness I have 2 wires that lead to the drivers side of the engine above the water pump, one wire goes to the AC compressor, where does the other go?

4. Oh, I believe I may have lost the bolt for the top of the idler assembly, anyone know what the size is so I can get one from the hardware store?

Thanks for helping me through my incompetence.

[jawn101]

So I've managed to disassemble my intake, clean the valley, and now attempting to reassemble. problem is it's been a few weeks since I took it apart and a few "extras" remain.

1. To what spec should I torque the fuel lines on the distributor, yes, I know it's probably been answered beore, but I'm on a cell phone.

2. I have a ground wire coming off the rear engine compartment wall on the left hand side. It's wired into the "resistor block" in back, forgive me for not knowing it's name, I'll just make one up.

3. From the wiring harness I have 2 wires that lead to the drivers side of the engine above the water pump, one wire goes to the AC compressor, where does the other go?

4. Oh, I believe I may have lost the bolt for the top of the idler assembly, anyone know what the size is so I can get one from the hardware store?

Thanks for helping me through my incompetence.

1. M8: 7-9 ft/lb. M10: 9-11 ft/lb. M12: 14-17 ft/lb. M14: 11-14 ft/lb. M12 Cap Nut: 11-14 ft/lb. M14 Cap Nut: 18-22 ft/lb (all from D:02:01 in the workshop manual)

2. Hard to know without pics but if it has a loop-eye electrical connector then it should go under the bolt that holds the vacuum advance solenoid to your mixture unit

3. Also hard to know without pictures but probably you have the single wire for the oil pressure 'idiot light' sender there (does it have a spade and an orange wire?)

4. Dunno, sorry...

[DMCMW Dave]

So I've managed to disassemble my intake, clean the valley, and now attempting to reassemble. problem is it's been a few weeks since I took it apart and a few "extras" remain.

1. To what spec should I torque the fuel lines on the distributor, yes, I know it's probably been answered beore, but I'm on a cell phone.

2. I have a ground wire coming off the rear engine compartment wall on the left hand side. It's wired into the "resistor block" in back, forgive me for not knowing it's name, I'll just make one up.

3. From the wiring harness I have 2 wires that lead to the drivers side of the engine above the water pump, one wire goes to the AC compressor, where does the other go?

4. Oh, I believe I may have lost the bolt for the top of the idler assembly, anyone know what the size is so I can get one from the hardware store?

Thanks for helping me through my incompetence.

1 Tight enough to not leak, not so tight you break it. Spec is 7-9 ft-lb I believe but most torque wrenches are not accurate at that low a setting, and it presumes you are using new washers. Which you probably are not.

2 Good

3 Oil switch for the idiot light. Low on the left side.

4 M7 x 40 or M7 x 60 Good luck - Hardware stores are notoriously low on 7 mm hardware.

[jdavies77]

1. M8: 7-9 ft/lb. M10: 9-11 ft/lb. M12: 14-17 ft/lb. M14: 11-14 ft/lb. M12 Cap Nut: 11-14 ft/lb. M14 Cap Nut: 18-22 ft/lb (all from D:02:01 in the workshop manual)

2. Hard to know without pics but if it has a loop-eye electrical connector then it should go under the bolt that holds the vacuum advance solenoid to your mixture unit

3. Also hard to know without pictures but probloably you have the single wire for the oil pressure 'idiot light' sender there (does it have a spade and an orange wire?)

4. Dunno, sorry...

Loop eye it is..

Spade connecter, not sure of color as the car is in my shop

Also, which belt is larger, ac or alternator? I bought both, but they weren't lableled and the old ones are shredded.

Thanks

[jawn101]

Ok, then it's the ground to that hex cap screw and the oil pressure idiot light for sure. The A/C belt is larger.

[DMC5180]

You had mentioned that the reason I'm not getting heat is because you believed there was a chance the heater lines were crossed. Now that I've got it apart, can you give me an idea of where the lines should go?

I see a line coming off the stainless reservoir and going to a tee, from there it splits to the front of the car and the other to the drivers side behind the distributor. The tube that runs through the valley is connected to a hose that runs to the front of the car as well.

On another note, I attempted to swap out the otterstat, however once disconnecting the hanger I slipped and heard the hanger hit the ground, from there I'm not sure where it bounced. Must bounce like a football as I can't see it anywhere, knowing my luck, it bounced back into the engine compartment and is hanging on something.

Water flow direction through the heater core does not matter. It's just a heat exchanger. As for the hose connections at the back of the engine, The hose with the valve in it comes off the Left HEAD. The other hose connects to the Valley Pipe. If you can't find the otterstat clip, Use a good sized Plastic Ty-Wrap if you have one.

[jdavies77]

OK, so car is now reassembled and to my surprise with no extra parts or missing parts. (I found the otterstat clip, of course after purchasing a new one)

So here's my dilemma, I put the fuse back in the fuse box, reconnected fuse pump relay, turned the key to the second position and waited. Now It just turns over and over and over.

Could the car flooded itself without me stepping on the gas? better chance I plugged something in wrong, but I thought I was pretty thorough, or worst case scenario, could my fuel pump not be kicking on?

[jdavies77]

OK, so car is now reassembled and to my surprise with no extra parts or missing parts. (I found the otterstat clip, of course after purchasing a new one)

So here's my dilemma, I put the fuse back in the fuse box, reconnected fuse pump relay, turned the key to the second position and waited. Now It just turns over and over and over.

Could the car flooded itself without me stepping on the gas? better chance I plugged something in wrong, but I thought I was pretty thorough, or worst case scenario, could my fuel pump not be kicking on?

Ok, forget that message, I missed one of the fuses, ran a little rough at first, but now runs fine.

On to the next 2 issues...

Fans still not kicking on with bypassing otterstat. Replaced otterstat with a new one, fans still didn't kick on. Jim (6960) was out and rewired my fan fail module for me as it was original. Fans now kick on full time with otterstat jumped, but car gets to 220 degrees with the wires plugged into the new otterstat, I didn't want to take it over that.

Also, no heat, fan switch works through 1 through 4, when I turn from vent to defrost I get the vacuum noises, but no heat...

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ok, forget that message, I missed one of the fuses, ran a little rough at first, but now runs fine.

On to the next 2 issues...

Fans still not kicking on with bypassing otterstat. Replaced otterstat with a new one, fans still didn't kick on. Jim (6960) was out and rewired my fan fail module for me as it was original. Fans now kick on full time with otterstat jumped, but car gets to 220 degrees with the wires plugged into the new otterstat, I didn't want to take it over that.

Also, no heat, fan switch works through 1 through 4, when I turn from vent to defrost I get the vacuum noises, but no heat...

Bleed your cooling system a few times as you warm up the engine. Some engine temps do show higher temps on the dash gauge then others.

[DeLorean03]

Do all your other modes work (max, normal A/C, Vent, etc) on your AC?

[DMC5180]

On to the next 2 issues...

Fans still not kicking on with bypassing otterstat. Replaced otterstat with a new one, fans still didn't kick on. Jim (6960) was out and rewired my fan fail module for me as it was original. Fans now kick on full time with otterstat jumped, but car gets to 220 degrees with the wires plugged into the new otterstat, I didn't want to take it over that.

Also, no heat, fan switch works through 1 through 4, when I turn from vent to defrost I get the vacuum noises, but no heat...

My car goes to 220 before the fans kick on. It always has, and is just a variable in the (general reference gauge). The Otterstat is supposed to kick on at around 206 F give or take manufacturer tolerances. As long as the the fans kick on don't worry about it.

As for no heat, it is possible the a PO had the Heater hoses disconnected from the heater core and either plugged off or connected the 2 hose ends together. This is sometimes a Solution or Quick fix to the infamous Summer HOT foot syndrome and the cars typically don't get driven in winter and you don't need heat in the south. There is a foam seal that is supposed to block off the opening in the heater housing / air box where the Heater core pipes come through. It a PITA to get at in the car. That Foam seal always comes unglued. The result is Hot Air always blowing or bleeding out and is directed into the drivers foot well in all MODE settings, even with the Fan Speed switch a on 0 (except MAX A/C) Heater water valve should be OFF then.

NOTE: Verify heater valve works. Switch between NORM and MAX while noting the the VALVE ARM Position. Engine needs to be running for Vacuum if the reservoir had bled down. It should show a position change in the Arm. It is remotely possible that the tiny vacuum line running across the back wall has become disconnected. I don't recall what the No vacuum state of the valve is open or closed.

[DeLorean03]

I remember my gauge was off from the true value. It would read 220 before the fans kicked on, but then Casey measured the coolant's true temperature and it was more around 206.

I don't recall the reference point he used, but if we could figure out what that reference point is, you could use a temperature gun and determine if your gauge is "off" too. Like Dennis said, as long as the fans are coming on, you should be all right; however, I do remember that feeling of dread watching the needle slice the "220" right down the middle ....