How to remove rear fascia

[1batt4u]

I'm in the process of removing the rear fascia.

I am trying to figure out which bolts/screws I have to remove? I removed, taillights and license plate cover.

So far I removed the top 9 screws where the engine covers closes, BTW what size are they so I can buy new ones? Also 2 bolts, one on each side, on each end of bumper.

Pictures and step by step will definitely help!

Thank you!!

[1batt4u]

No one has removed their fascias??

[dmc6960]

Usually when people remove their fascias they do it as a whole rear assembly. For that, it's simple. 4 big bolts at the rear of the engine bay. The 8 small nuts under the muffler, one nut/bolt (don't remember which) on each side on the lower rear rockers, then finally the wiring harness. You only need to pull a taillight if someone didn't install the power antenna properly.

[DMCMW Dave]

Usually when people remove their fascias they do it as a whole rear assembly. For that, it's simple. 4 big bolts at the rear of the engine bay. The 8 small nuts under the muffler, one nut/bolt (don't remember which) on each side on the lower rear rockers, then finally the wiring harness. You only need to pull a taillight if someone didn't install the power antenna properly.

I bet that on 90% of the cars there is one added nut/bolt through the facia support to the pontoon with the nut on the inside (on each side). You need to remove the tail lights for access, and then the carbon can and intake pipe to get to the nut. It's much too common to be a single dealer doing this.

I recall seeing something years ago that this was a factory/QAC fix to pull the fascia up tighter to the quarter panel, but I've never been able to find that document again. James?

[1batt4u]

I bet that on 90% of the cars there is one added nut/bolt through the facia support to the pontoon with the nut on the inside (on each side). You need to remove the tail lights for access, and then the carbon can and intake pipe to get to the nut. It's much too common to be a single dealer doing this.

I recall seeing something years ago that this was a factory/QAC fix to pull the fascia up tighter to the quarter panel, but I've never been able to find that document again. James?


The taillights have been removed already as well as carbon can and intake pipe. I already removed those nuts and bolts.

@dmc6960 Power antenna is in front pass. fender.

[1batt4u]

Usually when people remove their fascias they do it as a whole rear assembly. For that, it's simple. 4 big bolts at the rear of the engine bay. The 8 small nuts under the muffler, one nut/bolt (don't remember which) on each side on the lower rear rockers, then finally the wiring harness. You only need to pull a taillight if someone didn't install the power antenna properly.

I'm doing whole rear assembly. Cleaning, painting.

[Nicholas R]

No one has removed their fascias??

Dont be so impatient, lol.


I bet that on 90% of the cars there is one added nut/bolt through the facia support to the pontoon with the nut on the inside (on each side). You need to remove the tail lights for access, and then the carbon can and intake pipe to get to the nut. It's much too common to be a single dealer doing this.

I recall seeing something years ago that this was a factory/QAC fix to pull the fascia up tighter to the quarter panel, but I've never been able to find that document again. James?

I have 3 on each side of my car going from the fascia support through the pontoon (for a total of 6). I always wondered if they were required. I've heard people say they have 2, 1, and some have none. I actually recently installed rivet-nuts into the pontoon so that I didn't have to go inside the pontoon to remove the nuts on the inside. Makes it a lot easier to remove the fascia, especially with my current intake. They're probably not actually needed but at this point, why not. They're simple enough to install and remove.
19096

I take my fascia off pretty regularly for good engine access. I have it down to a quick science.
19097

I use a small 3/8 battery powered impact gun and can usually have it off in about 20 min.

-Remove engine cover latch plate
-Disconnect latch cable
-Remove side markers and disconnect bulb wires (N7 screws)
-Remove coil cover and disconnect black bulkhead connector
-Remove all the nuts from the studs in the fascia going through the muffler heat shield (in my case these are bolts and nuts) (M6 bolts/nuts)
-Remove nuts connecting fascia to the fenders down low (these are also bolts and nuts for me) (M6 bolts/nuts)
-Remove Taillights (M5 bolts)
-Remove any bolts going through fascia support piece into the pontoon (may require removal of carbon canister and intake hose) (usually M6 bolts)
-Remove bolts going to fascia mounting L brackets (M8 bolts)

Lift up and away!

Do not remove those top 9 screws, there is no point unless you want to separate the fascia itself from the fiberglass support piece. Either way, always take the support piece and fascia off together, then separate the two after they're out of the car.

[dmc6960]

I bet that on 90% of the cars there is one added nut/bolt through the facia support to the pontoon with the nut on the inside (on each side). You need to remove the tail lights for access, and then the carbon can and intake pipe to get to the nut. It's much too common to be a single dealer doing this.

I recall seeing something years ago that this was a factory/QAC fix to pull the fascia up tighter to the quarter panel, but I've never been able to find that document again. James?

Well now I'm curious about my own fascia alignment. I'm certain I've never had to pull my taillights when doing this previously. In fact, I even have a picture of my rear assembly in one piece on the floor of my garage when I had my engine removed...

19099

Taillights still in place. Just call me part of the elite 10%. :fancy:

[1batt4u]

Dont be so impatient, lol.



I have 3 on each side of my car going from the fascia support through the pontoon (for a total of 6). I always wondered if they were required. I've heard people say they have 2, 1, and some have none. I actually recently installed rivet-nuts into the pontoon so that I didn't have to go inside the pontoon to remove the nuts on the inside. Makes it a lot easier to remove the fascia, especially with my current intake. They're probably not actually needed but at this point, why not. They're simple enough to install and remove.
19096

I take my fascia off pretty regularly for good engine access. I have it down to a quick science.
19097

I use a small 3/8 battery powered impact gun and can usually have it off in about 20 min.

-Remove engine cover latch plate
-Disconnect latch cable
-Remove side markers and disconnect bulb wires (N7 screws)
-Remove coil cover and disconnect black bulkhead connector
-Remove all the nuts from the studs in the fascia going through the muffler heat shield (in my case these are bolts and nuts) (M6 bolts/nuts)
-Remove nuts connecting fascia to the fenders down low (these are also bolts and nuts for me) (M6 bolts/nuts)
-Remove Taillights (M5 bolts)
-Remove any bolts going through fascia support piece into the pontoon (may require removal of carbon canister and intake hose) (usually M6 bolts)
-Remove bolts going to fascia mounting L brackets (M8 bolts)

Lift up and away!

Do not remove those top 9 screws, there is no point unless you want to separate the fascia itself from the fiberglass support piece. Either way, always take the support piece and fascia off together, then separate the two after they're out of the car.

Cool! Thanx!! I should have remembered to ask you, you do it on a regular basis. lol

[1batt4u]

So I removed everything quick!!

Thank you guys!!

Now, on to the front fascia!

[DMC81]

22657

Is there a place to buy these in stainless steel and in different sizes?:dunno:

[jawn101]

22657

Is there a place to buy these in stainless steel and in different sizes?:dunno:

Hmm. Haven't seen them in stainless particularly but Ace Hardware carries them in lots of sizes. "Speed Nuts"

[Josh]

Hmm. Haven't seen them in stainless particularly but Ace Hardware carries them in lots of sizes. "Speed Nuts"

They are a little different than the regular speed nuts. The delorean ones have more of a square shape, where the hardware store ones are rectangular. I will keep searching, but have come up empty so far.

[DMC81]

They are a little different than the regular speed nuts. The delorean ones have more of a square shape, where the hardware store ones are rectangular. I will keep searching, but have come up empty so far.

I was just thinking if it was stainless, one less thing to worry about. Maybe a marina might know of a place, I'll have make some calls after work.

[David T]

I was just thinking if it was stainless, one less thing to worry about. Maybe a marina might know of a place, I'll have make some calls after work.

Check Mr G's hardware or McMaster Carr.

[Josh]

I tried placing an order from mcmaster carr. They sent me an email telling me to get bent. They will not ship to canadians!

[1batt4u]

What thread size are they again?

[DMC81]

What thread size are they again?

I dont see the thread size on the Delorean site but the part is #SP10547

[Josh]

If they are the same thread as the panel mounting hardware (they look the same in the picture) the screw is a:

#10-16

The panel screws Truss head style that are 5/8" long but these look shorter. Cannot determine if they are 1/2" or 3/8" from the picture.

[DMC81]

22682

Is there anything that can be done with these? Almost all mine snapped.

[Josh]

Take a dremel and remove the plastic around the stud and remove said stud. Then buy some SS studs from DPI and epoxy them in.

[DMC81]

Take a dremel and remove the plastic around the stud and remove said stud. Then buy some SS studs from DPI and epoxy them in.

I was thinking that was what should be done but I wanted to ask, thanks Josh. Will the new ones you mention have the flat base and stud or just a basic stud? Do you recommend any particular epoxy?

[jawn101]

I was thinking that was what should be done but I wanted to ask, thanks Josh. Will the new ones you mention have the flat base and stud or just a basic stud? Do you recommend any particular epoxy?

Josh at DPI recommends Valvoline Pliogrip Panel 60 adhesive to bond properly to the urethane. This stuff is NOT cheap, but it's not a job you wanna do twice. I've found that Josh doesn't cut any corners with materials and it seems to pay off.

http://www.pliogripbyvalvoline.com/nr.php?id=7

[Josh]

I was thinking that was what should be done but I wanted to ask, thanks Josh. Will the new ones you mention have the flat base and stud or just a basic stud? Do you recommend any particular epoxy?

I will take a picture tomorrow of the studs. They have a rectangular flat base, a delorean specific piece, not just an off the shelf fastener.

[DMC81]

I will take a picture tomorrow of the studs. They have a rectangular flat base, a delorean specific piece, not just an off the shelf fastener.

Sounds good, thanks for the info.:thumbup:

[DMCMW Dave]

Sounds good, thanks for the info.:thumbup:

They look like this. In stock here.

22686

[DMC81]

They look like this. In stock here.

22686

Thanks Dave, if you get a chance shoot me a price or part# so I can look it up on your site.