Center Console Removal

[Dangermouse]

Attempting to remove the center console today, for the first time and have gotten stuck and don't want to force anything.

I was wanting to replace my rheostat with a three way jumper, which I managed to do, but then I decided to keep going and install the Craig I got months and months ago but I can't get the faceplate off. What am I missing?

I have both trays off, the six nuts removed and the two screws (left and right under the dash) out, but it feels like there is still something holding it in there.

The back end is completely free.

What am I missing and where are they hiding?

[sdg3205]

Attempting to remove the center console today, for the first time and have gotten stuck and don't want to force anything.

I was wanting to replace my rheostat with a three way jumper, which I managed to do, but then I decided to keep going and install the Craig I got months and months ago but I can't get the faceplate off. What am I missing?

I have both trays off, the six nuts removed and the two screws (left and right under the dash) out, but it feels like there is still something holding it in there.

The back end is completely free.

What am I missing and where are they hiding?

The wiring harnesses that run along the tub there are often running over the tabs that screw to the fiberglass.

Carefully ensure the wiring harnesses and vacuum lines are not holding you back.

[Bitsyncmaster]

The wiring harnesses that run along the tub there are often running over the tabs that screw to the fiberglass.

Carefully ensure the wiring harnesses and vacuum lines are not holding you back.

+1

Yes the harness should be running over the tabs. So you have to work the harness as you pull up the front. Many people force it and break those tabs off. Same goes when you install it.

[Dangermouse]

The vacuum line and harness seem to be out of the way.

At the front there are two sets of tabs on the same bolt. There is a slotted one attached to the sides of the console and a ring one attached to the HVAC faceplate.

If I push the sides of the console outwards so the slotted tab is free of the bolt, I am able to work the ring tab up over the threads of the bolt but it just doesn't feel right. And even when both tabs are free of the bolt, the faceplate still won't come forward.

Are there any other fasteners at the front apart from the screw in each side?

[Spittybug]

Huh? My faceplate comes off by simply removing the screw behind one of the knobs, but has no bearing on the center console if the gear shift plate is already out. The center console is 6 bolts, 2 screws and then the wire-over-the-tabs issue. Anything other than that is a PO issue by the sound of things.

[Jonathan]

Does this help, Dermot?

1924919250192511925219253

Not sure if I'm confusing you saying "console" and "faceplate?" This was to get the console off. The HVAC faceplate, like Owen mentions, is a little screw hiding behind the mode knob. If you also mean the whole radio bracket, i.e. DIN versus non-DIN, we can help with that too.

It might be #45 in this page that is causing the grief for you getting your console out?

http://store.delorean.com/c-316-8-7-0-dashboardconsole.aspx

[Dangermouse]

Aha,

It may be that hidden faceplate screw!! I was assuming that the center console came out complete with the vertical radio/HVAC part.

Thanks guys, I'll try that later.

[Jonathan]

There is quite a bit of spaghetti that needs to be disconnected after you get the console out but before you can take the radio bracket out. Most all of it comes out in various pieces so it's not actually that difficult. If you need help or more pictures of what goes where, just ask, as I am just wrapping up this sort of thing on my car.

19254

[Spittybug]

For the love of all things Holy, when you put it all back together, make sure all of you wire bundles are OUTSIDE of the brackets and studs and not (more conveniently) running under the metal arch that the shifter plate screws down to (4th pic, a couple of posts back). Screws into wire bundles do nasty things. Don't ask how I know.:ohcrap:

[Dangermouse]

I'll be wery wery cawful. I've seen that happen a couple of times too. Always a joy to find.

Speaking of that pic 4 above, does anything go in the holes on the outside of the screws that hold the shifter plate down. I mean that reading outwards from the center of the console there is the shifter plate screw, the main hold down nut and then an open hole. It looks squareish, like it would take a fir-tree? Were there originally something there or are they always empty?

[Jonathan]

I'll be wery wery cawful. I've seen that happen a couple of times too. Always a joy to find.

Speaking of that pic 4 above, does anything go in the holes on the outside of the screws that hold the shifter plate down. I mean that reading outwards from the center of the console there is the shifter plate screw, the main hold down nut and then an open hole. It looks squareish, like it would take a fir-tree? Were there originally something there or are they always empty?

As far as I know, there are some studs coming down from the shifter plate that sit in those holes. They are welded on to the underside of the shifter plate and only get guided into those square holes (but not threaded into them with a nut).

Hmmm... okay, was looking at the store website and I'm not sure honestly. I attached a picture of the underside of my shifter plate, and there definitely aren't four of these studs (one for each hole). They may be aftermarket/PO work, or they could be factory. On the manual transmission, the square holes might just be unused, sort of like a few other things on the car that are in place, but only used on one transmission type or another?

19257

And just found a picture from a couple seasons ago... looks like I only have one of these studs in place still/ever... so I'm leaning towards PO work and not Dunmurry.

19258


....OK..... maybe a question for the group while we're at it....

Is the correct way (on an auto trans) to install the shifter plate, to snug the front lip of the plate under the bottom edge of the HVAC panel/faceplate? It seems like this is how it holds itself together, however, it also feels like there is too much tension in there by the time you fit it in and under the lip and then push the back end down flat to get the two screws connected. Almost like you have to force it in there slightly. I have tried to install the shifter plate without the front edge under the HVAC faceplate lip, but then there is nothing for it to grab to and it sits loose. That way doesn't seem right either....

[Bitsyncmaster]

On the 5 speed, the shifter plate sits under the AC panel to hold it down. It seem like quite a bit of force on the panel but I have not heard of it damaging things.

[Jonathan]

On the 5 speed, the shifter plate sits under the AC panel to hold it down. It seem like quite a bit of force on the panel but I have not heard of it damaging things.

Beauty Dave. Thanks. Was hoping it wasn't just me. Nice to hear it's one of these "supposed to be that way" things on our cars.

[DMC5180]

Their are supposed to be little one-way gripper clips that sit in the rectangle holes and bite into the weld studs. Your better off if they aren't though since they can be a pain to get them to release when removing the plate. Chances are they fell out and are laying under the Rectangle holes or nearby.

[Dangermouse]

I have two of those studs at the front of the plate. I had been looking at the holes at the rear and hadnt put two and two together.

They look like they are actually copper studs braised on to the steel plate and on close inspection at the rear I can see two spots where something had been attached in the past. Perhaps they originally had 4 but the rear ones got broken off at some point.

Anyway in other news, I got the console out. Turns out one of the middle tabs had slipped back on its stud. :(

Now I see that the vertical part is separate from the console itself. It's always harder the first time.

Quick radio question - as well as the multiconnector and coax cable at the back of the radio, I also have a single pink wire. Looking at the schematic, the only unaccounted for wire is a Black ground wire. Is this Pink wire actually the ground wire? 19259

[Bitsyncmaster]

Ground is most always black. Maybe that pink wire is for your electrical antenna.

[Dangermouse]

Ok, that could make sense. There is already a black wire in the multiconnector. I just have a fender antenna, so I will ignore it for now.

One of the fuses has blown so I need to get a new one before I get any further.

[Jonathan]

Dermot,

Are you putting in a new Craig radio to replace a broken Craig radio? Or going from new-age type deck back to old school? Or something else?

I've come across a couple extra tips and tricks when I did mine. I went from Craig radio to new DIN sized deck including new DIN bracket and speaker wiring. The interesting thing I noted on the radio ground is the way it was chained together in the factory wiring, yet a new deck has it's own ground with clasp on the end. The factory one comes along the harness bunch, and then splits to go to the Craig radio connector and a secondary wire that keeps going to meet up with the screw on the side of the radio bracket that the other grounds terminate at. What I found was that you end up with an extra ground connection because you have one that used to be plugged into the connector, a second one that splits from that to meet the grounding screw on the bracket, and the third being a new one from the replacement deck. What I did was clip the split off one and tape it back, terminate the original one to the screw and then terminate the new deck one at the screw separately. Not sure what difference it would make other than I clipped it originally thinking I didn't need it... then realizing 'oops' maybe I did need that... and then figuring out it was extra afterall.

[Dangermouse]

My car came without a radio and the bracket hasn't been cut for a DIN one.

I was initially going to get a DIN one but I like the period look of the original. I have no need to play CDs and a cassette adaptor will suit my iPhone.

Kindly Accipiter passed on his old one to me, so I thought I'd try it out and see what the sound quality is like.

So I haven't been able to compare the old radio to the new one, wiring wise or anything like that. I have no idea if any of the speakers work, but I am fully prepared to upgrade them anyway. One of the in-line fuses was blown so I hope that was due to something in the old radio rather than an external short but you never know.

[Dangermouse]

Plug and play, baby :)

New fuse and now I have all the tunes. I have mislaid my aerial (unscrewed it years ago) so using the iphone cassette adaptor, which is probably what I will use it for mostly anyway. Sound quality is surprisingly good from the front but one of the rears is out. Next step - new speakers.

But of course it wouldn't be a deLorean if it didn't giveth and then taketh away.

Got radio, but now don't have indicators :sad30:


I suspect that the hazard switch connector isn't on correctly.

[Farrar]

FYI, when I bypassed the rheostat with a three-way jumper I blew a fuse. I had to use a two-way jumper and tape off the third connector. Sorry I can't remember which was which, but this was several years ago -- just have a few spare fuses handy as you figure out which two connectors to use. :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

FYI, when I bypassed the rheostat with a three-way jumper I blew a fuse. I had to use a two-way jumper and tape off the third connector. Sorry I can't remember which was which, but this was several years ago -- just have a few spare fuses handy as you figure out which two connectors to use. :)

The three way jumper should have worked. There are four red/orange wires that get connected via the rheostat. Then the red/white wire drives the binnacle lights.

[Dangermouse]

For me, the three way jumper worked just fine.

Oddly though before that, when I pulled fuse 8, I lost the passenger side external side-lights, as I should have, but I still had the binnacle lights (with the rheostat still connected but not doing anything dimming-wise) which I shouldn't have. I need to do a little more testing on that circuit before I put the center console back on.

The rheostat tested open- circuit, not surprisingly (it had been super-hot last weekend, which is what lead to all this)

Finally, found the hazard switch unplugged - all good now. Indicators are back.

[Farrar]

There are four red/orange wires that get connected via the rheostat. Then the red/white wire drives the binnacle lights.

There's supposed to be a white/red wire there? In my car, all of the wires at that point are red/orange.

My car's wiring seems to be colored differently from others' and what is "technically correct" in some areas. The ground wires in the relay sockets behind the passenger seat, for example, are black with a red tracer, instead of solid black. The more I hear other people talking about what color wire does what, the more I find myself thinking "Oh, really?" I've learned to just keep a multimeter with me at all times when doing something electrical, rather than rely on the book.

Anyway, sorry for the off-topic tangent.

[Bitsyncmaster]

There's supposed to be a white/red wire there? In my car, all of the wires at that point are red/orange.

My car's wiring seems to be colored differently from others' and what is "technically correct" in some areas. The ground wires in the relay sockets behind the passenger seat, for example, are black with a red tracer, instead of solid black. The more I hear other people talking about what color wire does what, the more I find myself thinking "Oh, really?" I've learned to just keep a multimeter with me at all times when doing something electrical, rather than rely on the book.

Anyway, sorry for the off-topic tangent.

I've found quite a few wires in my car that are not the colors shown in the schematic. Now is the schematic wrong or some harness were made with wrong colors?

[CCTMurphy]

Huh? My faceplate comes off by simply removing the screw behind one of the knobs, but has no bearing on the center console if the gear shift plate is already out. The center console is 6 bolts, 2 screws and then the wire-over-the-tabs issue. Anything other than that is a PO issue by the sound of things.

two studs, on sides & even with dimmer are inserted into a type of push socket. The only way I found to release is to insert pry bar along side rail & twist energetically until they pop out.

[refugeefromcalif]

I'm in the middle of removing my center console for the first time, (My Headlight switch died), and this thread has been a big Plus. :rock_on:

I still don't have the center console off yet though. I'm stuck at the coin tray light bulb.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21404&d=1376864724

and how to remove it from the back plate without cutting the wires?

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21405&d=1376864805

I haven't been able to remove the center console from the radio area.

I'm still reading, (Searching), and looking at pictures on this thread.

OT, When I had access under my shifter I found these cut wires.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21403&d=1376864609

Anyone have a clue what they are? They seem to be stock but, looking at this pic,

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21402&d=1376864512

I don't know what to think/believe.
DMC Florida ran a Lot of new wires for my cruise control, Wings-A-Loft and other goodies while they had the car.

George

[sdg3205]

They are probably for the AT shifter plate light socket.

[Farrar]

Coin tray bulb is not stock AFAIK.

Dave is correct -- green/white and black wires are for shifter surround illumination on auto Ds.

[Jonathan]

...I still don't have the center console off yet though. I'm stuck at the coin tray light bulb.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21404&d=1376864724

and how to remove it from the back plate without cutting the wires?

Like Farrar said, that light bulb is not stock. But as a bit of a guess, you would think you would be able to remove it to replace the bulb itself one day, right? So my guess is you might be able to loosen a collar on it much like you would on the glovebox light bulb. I can't make out enough detail from the photo, but from the outer side of the coin tray, see if you can loosen (counter clockwise) the black trim on the bulb and perhaps if it is indeed a threaded connection, that will let you take the collar off and back the bulb out without messing with the wires?


OT, When I had access under my shifter I found these cut wires.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21403&d=1376864609

Anyone have a clue what they are? They seem to be stock but, looking at this pic,

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=21402&d=1376864512

Yes, as others said, it is for the PRND21 light bulb on the automatics. Reference the 4th photo I uploaded in post #6 in this thread. Put some electrical tape on the ends and then forget about them.

[DMCMW Dave]

You really don't need to remove the console to replace that switch, although it might make it easier.

[refugeefromcalif]

You really don't need to remove the console to replace that switch, although it might make it easier.

Yep I know. I wanted to remove the console so I knew how to replace the radio/HVAC? plate.
I have a 1DIN radio, (And the DMCH 1DIN plate), that I've wanted to put in the car for about 8 months.
Me, I just kept driving it and enjoying the Craig radio. :driving1:

As soon as the headlight switch stopped working properly I figured it was time to play with/dismantle the console to learn how to do it, (and do some cleaning), for when I Finally install the radio.

I got the switch out today and after 2 hours of messing with it, I *Think* I have it working and ready to install back in the car. :rock_on:

Good timing also, I received my new fuel accumulator from DMC F and I need to get the car to the shop and have it installed as soon as possible.

George

[GS450-Junkie]

I'm about to reinstall my center console. Do I put the center armrest and clock and shift plate on the center console, then install the whole thing together, or do I put the console in first and and then put in the individual pieces?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm about to reinstall my center console. Do I put the center armrest and clock and shift plate on the center console, then install the whole thing together, or do I put the console in first and and then put in the individual pieces?

Arm rest bolts under the console so it must be installed on the console first. You need to bolt the console down under the shift plate first so the shift plate must go on last.