Brakes and Oil lights

[Renee_1632]

I recently narrowly avoided a wreck in 1632. The driver in front of me slammed on their brakes, and in turn I quickly braked 1632. I stopped in time, but as I pushed the brake pedal the hardest at the end, the oil light flickered on, remained lit for about five seconds, then turned off. This isn't the first time this has happened. What's going on?

Also, the guys at DMC-CA figured out 1632's won't-start-in-hot-weather issue. They didn't know the exact details when I last spoke to them Wednesday, but the issue was located in the neutral start system. I'm just glad I can be a daily driver again!

[David T]

Check your oil level in the motor. It should be at least half-way between the full and add marks on the dipstick when cold on level ground. Check the wire going to the oil sender on the left, rear of the motor. That wire is usually all crispy with the insulation all burnt off. Either replace that section with something more heat resistant or just slip a sleeve over it.
David Teitelbaum

[jmettee]

As David says, the switch that controls the Oil Warning light on the dash is on the drivers side of the engine, below the exhaust manifold & just behind the muffler bracket. It's got 1 wire going to it, which attaches to a stud. If this is very oily &/or the wire moves/spins easily, it's likely making a poor connection. If it's original, they all become this way due to the design. I *believe* the newer replacements are improved to prevent these issues.

You can take it out, clean it up & add some epoxy to seal it up & also clean the connection to the wire terminal....or buy a new one.

This should take care of the problem, unless your oil is in fact low. 7 quarts is full, check the dipstick to rule this out.

[Delorean Industries]

With the part costing less then 20.00 dollars and being rather easy to install if you are running an aftermarket exhaust it is worth just replacing the unit.

The install is a bit more difficult if you are running a stock exhaust system. That is also why they fail due to excessive heat exposure. If the sensor is damaged you can usually count on replacing the lower section of the one wire harness as well.