Stainless Steel panels RE-Texturing / polishing tool

[ALEXAKOS]

I hate to open a thread about something that has been probably mentioned before someplace...
but I have spent so many hours with the search tool to find the naming of this drill head polishing tool!
(I bet you Dangermouse will pop in a jiffy and give me a link!!!:wrenchin: HOW IN THE WORLD does he do that?)

http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/content/20100110/IMG_1520.jpg

Anybody have a clue what this is called or even where I can find one?
also how many hours or square feet of polishing does it take per head? One enough for the whole Delorean?

Also other links and hints of getting that surface back to original appreciated.
I have seen some tools like cheese grinders that are used for getting a deeper feel before the final drill polish.

[Dangermouse]

It's called a flapper wheel. The brand name people here seem to prefer is WolfHead

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6348-Pneumatic-Flapper-Wheel-Suggestions&highlight=FLAPPER

(I just use the search function on the site, Alex, but in this case I knew waht it was called and therefore where to start)

[ALEXAKOS]

:eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1::eek1:

BLOODY HELL!!!!!

He's done it again!!!

Cheers mate!!

OK... It's time to tell us you are not human! Are you???

[Dangermouse]

OK... It's time to tell us you are not human! Are you???

Clearly I'm a mouse :)

[refugeefromcalif]

Clearly I'm a mouse :)

Not according to this...

http://dmctalk.org/image.php?u=53&dateline=1366035012

:biggrin: :biggrin:

George

[Rich]

also how many hours or square feet of polishing does it take per head? One enough for the whole Delorean?

Also other links and hints of getting that surface back to original appreciated.
I have seen some tools like cheese grinders that are used for getting a deeper feel before the final drill polish.

From a forum search using "regrain" and "time" I see 4 results.

See this different thread in particular about the regraining process, also several pictures:

LINK: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1245-OFFICIAL-Re-graining-Stainless-Thread (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1245-OFFICIAL-Re-graining-Stainless-Thread)

Be sure to note Josh's #11 post in this thread, the one comparing regraining by hand vs the flapper tool.

I have no opinion either way.

[ALEXAKOS]

thank you guys... AND MOUSE!

[jawn101]

The really "pro grade" one is a Wolfhead flapper wheel. But they are very, very expensive.

http://gandpmachinery.com/wolfheadwheels.html

[mluder]

The really "pro grade" one is a Wolfhead flapper wheel. But they are very, very expensive.

http://gandpmachinery.com/wolfheadwheels.html

I was under the impression that they weren't that expensive... Less than $150.

Cheers
Steven

[jawn101]

I was under the impression that they weren't that expensive... Less than $150.

Cheers
Steven

Hmm. Maybe you're right. I thought they were (literally) ten times that.

Here's a good article I saved a while back with some photos of the process
http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/?content=20091018

[ALEXAKOS]

See all the articles. Just haven't' found an online store that sells one.

That Wolfhead site from IL does not offer an online store. Just telephone orders.

[mluder]

See all the articles. Just haven't' found an online store that sells one.

That Wolfhead site from IL does not offer an online store. Just telephone orders.

Yep - If you want to order one just give them a call.

Cheers
Steven

[Josh]

I was looking for an online store as well, I guess I should give up then. I am going to be doing alot of graining in the near future. Anyone know the going rate for a wheel with the aluminum oxide sandpaper? I wonder if this could be something people rent out; its not something you use very often.

[DMCMW Dave]

Hmm. Maybe you're right. I thought they were (literally) ten times that.


You are thinking of the air tool. It is.

[jawn101]

You are thinking of the air tool. It is.

Well at least I'm not crazy :)

The cost of that tool plus the knowhow to do the work properly is why I've always known this is one job I will pass off to a franchise, when I'm feeling rich one day. Any novice shadetree like myself can learn to do the mechanical stuff given enough time and trial/error... but you don't get a lot of chances to do the stainless right.

[tgraham]

Hmm. Maybe you're right. I thought they were (literally) ten times that.

It depends. The Wolfhead itself, ~$200. Now you need a low RPM pneumatic tool (more $). Next a BIG compressor (even more $). Then a 220V line to power the compressor if you don't have one ($)... It's a slippery slope.

The right tool does an amazing job with some skill. And can definitely do some serious harm if you're sloppy. You'll still have to go over it by hand to fine-tune it, especially around the curves. I wouldn't bother with the whole setup unless you have some real damage (like a previously-painted panel, like I had), or you "want a job done right and you want it done fast!" ;)

Travis

[kings1527]

The really "pro grade" one is a Wolfhead flapper wheel. But they are very, very expensive.

http://gandpmachinery.com/wolfheadwheels.html


I was under the impression that they weren't that expensive... Less than $150.

Cheers
Steven


Hmm. Maybe you're right. I thought they were (literally) ten times that.

Here's a good article I saved a while back with some photos of the process
http://www.noroads.com/delorean/3281/?content=20091018

I picked one up from G&P with two sets of 80 grit aluminum oxide strips and one set of 60 grit for about $210 or so. I'm doing a writeup on stainless regraining right now; it's just taking forever with everything else going on. I picked up an Ingersoll Rand pistol-style air tool that's set to operate at 1000 rpm, which is what you want. Good luck finding a factory original Aro 8067 E1S. The original Aro model was the 8067 E1 and was commercially available but it was re-geared specifically for DMC back in the day (and kind of a 'special order' for the company from what I understand) to run at a slower RPM, hence the 'S' designation on the model. Total collectors item if you can find one!


See all the articles. Just haven't' found an online store that sells one.

That Wolfhead site from IL does not offer an online store. Just telephone orders.

I can't remember his name but usually the president of the company answers the phone. He's a real nice guy and he'll get you what you need.


I was looking for an online store as well, I guess I should give up then. I am going to be doing alot of graining in the near future. Anyone know the going rate for a wheel with the aluminum oxide sandpaper? I wonder if this could be something people rent out; its not something you use very often.

I don't know about renting it out and you're right, once you're done with it, it just kind of sits around. But you're always going to run into other owners who'd love to use it! But I don't know anyone who has it available to rent. I'm in the process of helping out a couple friends right now. Honestly Josh, with the project you have going on I think you'd really benefit to get a full setup and it's not that expensive. I have a Coleman Powermate that I bought for under $200 that powers it fine and you never realize how much you use a compressor until you have one. If you already have a good compressor setup, then you're 2/3 of the way there. My pistol grip air tool was an eBay find and you can definitely grab one for around $60. Just make sure it spins between 800-1000 RPM. Chris Nicholson even uses an electric powered Ryobi and with it being electric, that makes it more flexible in terms of a power source.


It depends. The Wolfhead itself, ~$200. Now you need a low RPM pneumatic tool (more $). Next a BIG compressor (even more $). Then a 220V line to power the compressor if you don't have one ($)... It's a slippery slope.

The right tool does an amazing job with some skill. And can definitely do some serious harm if you're sloppy. You'll still have to go over it by hand to fine-tune it, especially around the curves. I wouldn't bother with the whole setup unless you have some real damage (like a previously-painted panel, like I had), or you "want a job done right and you want it done fast!" ;)

Travis

There's really not a whole lot of damage you can do to the stainless itself by regraining. Your 'danger zones' are going to be the louvers or the fascias or anything like that. The wheel will definitely scratch anything that's painted or is rubber. When you regrain, you're not 'sanding away' material like you would with sandpaper and wood. You're just fixing the grain and deep scratches. If you made an error and something didn't look right, you can just regrain it again. Again, you don't lose stainless steel material when you regrain. Just be careful on the hood and don't use too much pressure, otherwise you'll get the 'X'.

Stainless is amazingly resilient and as long as you don't have major damage on areas that are pre-formed with bends (like the wheel wells), it can usually be fixed. On the BTTF 'A' car, we had some holes that were made in the wrong places over the years so they had to be welded over, grinded down, and then refinished with the Wolfhead and finally by hand with a pad. You couldn't even tell there was a hole there. It looked perfect!

There is a little bit of technique involved but more so with using a blending pad than a wheel. Some people buy a 'beater panel' to practice on before using it on their car, but honestly, IMHO just be careful of anything painted or anything rubber and you'll be fine!

My compressor:
19719

It works fine but the tank is pretty small for the wheel. If you pick up one that's similar, the compressor will be running forever while you use the tool. But I have a super-capacity Ingersoll Rand compressor at work (maybe around 80 gal?) and the air tool drains that one quickly, too. Bottom line, a ~$200 compressor will get you what you need!

[DMC5180]

It depends. The Wolfhead itself, ~$200. Now you need a low RPM pneumatic tool (more $). Next a BIG compressor (even more $). Then a 220V line to power the compressor if you don't have one ($)... It's a slippery slope.

The right tool does an amazing job with some skill. And can definitely do some serious harm if you're sloppy. You'll still have to go over it by hand to fine-tune it, especially around the curves. I wouldn't bother with the whole setup unless you have some real damage (like a previously-painted panel, like I had), or you "want a job done right and you want it done fast!" ;)

Travis


Or a 1/2 chuck Electric Drill that turns 900 to 1000 RPM. I watched the Master Chris Nicholson do a complete Regrain with one. It's probably easier to hold and maneuver the Air tool style than it is the electric drill. The result was the same in the hand of an Expert Craftsman.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Watch a video of the wolf's head wheel in action here:

http://youtu.be/28SljwnxSqQ

[ALEXAKOS]

Watch a video of the wolf's head wheel in action here:

http://youtu.be/28SljwnxSqQ

THANK YOU!
At the beginning of the video, he uses this scraping tool I was asking abut on my first post.
Anybody know what that is?

Looks like a wood scraping tool

[David T]

The other way it is done is with a motor on a swiveling stand and a long flexible shaft like a Foredom tool on steroids. You can buy the flexible shaft and an expander head from Eastwood. I have one for sale without the motor. The expander head accepts Scotch-Brite pads and sandpaper pads so you can get any kind of finish. Add a speed control to the electric motor for fine control. Now you don't need a big air compressor or the expensive pneumatic tool.
David Teitlebaum

[Josh]

Care to show pictures of this setup David? very interested. I assume you are talking about one of these wheels?

19767

[Josh]

Here is some info from 3M for finishing stainless, just stumbled across it.

http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediawebserver?mwsId=SSSSSufSevTsZxtUNY_xMYt9evUqe vTSevTSevTSeSSSSSS--