LED Tailight kit

[DMCflux]

I am thinking of offering an LED Tailight kit: if I can get enough interest I have a source where I could offer the bulbs for less than 1/2 the price you would pay at superbrightleds.com
The kit would include:

Qty:
2. 1156 base Red 18 SMD TAILIGHT
4. 1156 base Red 45 SMD BRAKELIGHTS
2. 1156 Amber 45 SMD TURN SIGNALS
2. 1156 Ice White 18 SMD REVERSE LIGHT

From superbrightleds.com it would cost $230
If I can get enough interest I could supply the same LEDs in a kit for $100.00

The only item you would have to get on your own is a $12.95 flasher relay, so your LED turn signals will flash at a normal rate
http://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/cf13gl-02-led-bulb-electronic-flasher/782/836/

[Chris 16409]

I'd be interested without the reverse or turn signal lights. I'd like my brake and running light to have brighter LEDs than I currently have.

[Conundrum]

No pics?

[tc connors]

interested.

[dmc6960]

Do you already have these particular LEDs installed and tested? I'd maybe be interested, but since pictures are very hard to accurately represent LEDs vs incandescent, I'd like to see them in person before committing to them. Are you going to the DMCMW open house? I'm still just too skeptical on many drop in LEDs in our light housings due to the the design around the internal reflector. Also curious why the smaller bulb for the reverse lights? I have a curve in my driveway around a tree and I rely on my reverse lights illuminating behind me like mini-headlights.

I've pondered myself about making a newly designed taillight board with on-board forward-firing LEDs into an optical grade acrylic light pipe reaching into the housing and using a polished inverted cone to deflect all the light in a rewards pattern VERY closely approximating a typical incandescent bulb. I need to finish the new instrument cluster though before I'd branch out into anything else.

[DrJeff]

Also curious why the smaller bulb for the reverse lights? I have a curve in my driveway around a tree and I rely on my reverse lights illuminating behind me like mini-headlights.

I'm 100% LED across the tail lights including the reverse lights. I don't know if I didn't notice it before, but when I'm in reverse now I find that while the white lights are sufficient for someone behind to see that I'm in reverse, they are not sufficient to light up the area so that I can see where I'm going. I've been thinking about a solution to improve the white light from the back of the car while reversing - the wildest idea being to modify the LEDs in my 3rd brake light to be RED on braking and WHITE on reversing - but that would take some fun with electronics.

[DMC5180]

I have 45 SMD's in all locations except the tail light which is SMD 18.
These newer SMD unit are way better those what used to be offered.
No more hot spot's

All of the lights are significantly brighter than stock. I never realized how wimpy the rear lighting is until you drive behind a caravan of deloreans.

[DMCflux]

Do you already have these particular LEDs installed and tested? I'd maybe be interested, but since pictures are very hard to accurately represent LEDs vs incandescent, I'd like to see them in person before committing to them. Are you going to the DMCMW open house? I'm still just too skeptical on many drop in LEDs in our light housings due to the the design around the internal reflector. Also curious why the smaller bulb for the reverse lights? I have a curve in my driveway around a tree and I rely on my reverse lights illuminating behind me like mini-headlights.

I've pondered myself about making a newly designed taillight board with on-board forward-firing LEDs into an optical grade acrylic light pipe reaching into the housing and using a polished inverted cone to deflect all the light in a rewards pattern VERY closely approximating a typical incandescent bulb. I need to finish the new instrument cluster though before I'd branch out into anything else.

I do. They are significantly brighter than stock and illuminate the whole lense housing. I won't be at the open house unfortunately, but I believe DMC5180 will be and you can see his to tell the difference. The smaller amount of LEDs for the reverse lights are merely a personal preference. They still do the job better than stock of making those behind you aware.

[dmc6960]

I'll get a good look at Dennis's car at the open house then. If I like what I see you can count me in as interested then, but I'd *really* prefer the brighter one for the reverse lights.

[DMCMW Dave]

Something I was wondering about - we had a car in here with all LED tail lights. Also had an aftermarket radio and rear power antenna. Hitting the brakes, turn signals etc. the LEDs threw so much trash into the electrical system that it would blank the FM radio on brakes, and significantly interfere with it with just takil lights or backups.

Anyone else seen this?

[Bitsyncmaster]

Something I was wondering about - we had a car in here with all LED tail lights. Also had an aftermarket radio and rear power antenna. Hitting the brakes, turn signals etc. the LEDs threw so much trash into the electrical system that it would blank the FM radio on brakes, and significantly interfere with it with just takil lights or backups.

Anyone else seen this?

Unless those LEDs have switching regulators, that should not happen. LEDs are a constant current even when turning on or off. Incandescents have a very large surge current when you turn them on.

[DMC5180]

No noise issue that I have noticed. I still have the Craig in it.

The Only LED noise I get are from LED Traffic signal's. They do not not play well will certain lower end FM frequencys. Seems to be about 50' radius from the signal light. that's in my DD though.

[DMCflux]

I'm going to go ahead with initial run of 8-10 Kits. I have 4 Confirmed Interested, PM me if you are Interested...

All Leds will be 45 SMD (Including Reverse) With the Taillight Remaining 18. Also Included is manufactuer 1 Yr Warranty!!!

[jawn101]

What about including a pair of 1157 amber turn signals too?

[DMCflux]

What about including a pair of 1157 amber turn signals too?

1156 Amber 45SMD Rear Turn Signals are included

[jawn101]

I meant 1157s for the front turn signals. The dual filament ones. It would be cool to call it an 'exterior package' rather than just taillights. Maybe the side markers too? I really don't like the LEDs I bought for my side markers. Too dim.

[DMCflux]

I'll get a good look at Dennis's car at the open house then. If I like what I see you can count me in as interested then, but I'd *really* prefer the brighter one for the reverse lights.

I changed the reverse Leds to the brighter 45 SMD

[dmc6960]

I changed the reverse Leds to the brighter 45 SMD

Great to hear! I still wont fully commit until I see them in Dennis car though. Just 10 more days. I'll also second the question about the front turn signals. They are the only large bulbs left untouched, why not just go for the whole thing?

Regarding the smaller bulbs for the makers, I'll curious what Tom Niemczewski's new boards will be like with the sideways firing LEDs.

[jmettee]

Something I was wondering about - we had a car in here with all LED tail lights. Also had an aftermarket radio and rear power antenna. Hitting the brakes, turn signals etc. the LEDs threw so much trash into the electrical system that it would blank the FM radio on brakes, and significantly interfere with it with just takil lights or backups.

Anyone else seen this?

Yep, I have aftermarket stereo with a power amplified HIDDEN antenna (not a rear power antenna), along with 3rd LED brake light with a flasher unit. I *think* most of my static/noise is from the flasher unit or the power amplified antenna. I have not yet troubleshot it yet, but I'm going to start with the antenna since I don't get good reception with it anyway.

[DeLorean03]

Do not get your LEDs from superbright. You are WAY overpaying. Get these - I have them installed in my car and are great. Nick (LS1) has seen them, and I am confident he'd vouch that they're outstanding.

Red ones for brake and running:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380244724020?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Amber for turn signals:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-1156-7506-5007-BA15S-20-LED-Amber-Tail-Marker-Signal-Light-Bulbs-NEW-/400097666557?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d27ade5fd

White for reverse lights:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-1156-1141-3497-7506-SMD-LED-Turn-Signal-Parking-White-Light-Bulbs-NEW-/120758491193?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c1dc45839

Send them a message and explain you want to combine shipping; they did it for me. Took about a week to get all my lights in the mail.

Just ONE....ONE LED from SuperBright is $20 before shipping. You can get all the red bulbs you need (6) for $15 before shipping.

I'll take video for anyone who wants to see before they buy.

[DrJeff]

Yep, I have aftermarket stereo with a power amplified HIDDEN antenna (not a rear power antenna), along with 3rd LED brake light with a flasher unit. I *think* most of my static/noise is from the flasher unit or the power amplified antenna. I have not yet troubleshot it yet, but I'm going to start with the antenna since I don't get good reception with it anyway.

I have a flasher unit on the third brake light also, but I haven't noticed any static/noise from it. I would imagine you would only get noise from the flasher unit when it is activated?

[dvonk]

Do not get your LEDs from superbright. You are WAY overpaying.

+1. amazon also has a decent selection, and some are available through prime.

however, for a crazy wide selection, check out DealExtreme (https://dx.com/c/car-accessories-799/car-lights-723/car-led-bulbs-712)... their prices are half of SuperBright and the shipping is free--the only caveat is that it comes on the slow boat from china (literally), so expect a couple weeks for shipping time.

[DMCflux]

Do not get your LEDs from superbright. You are WAY overpaying. Get these - I have them installed in my car and are great. Nick (LS1) has seen them, and I am confident he'd vouch that they're outstanding.

Red ones for brake and running:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/380244724020?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Amber for turn signals:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-1156-7506-5007-BA15S-20-LED-Amber-Tail-Marker-Signal-Light-Bulbs-NEW-/400097666557?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d27ade5fd

White for reverse lights:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-1156-1141-3497-7506-SMD-LED-Turn-Signal-Parking-White-Light-Bulbs-NEW-/120758491193?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c1dc45839

Send them a message and explain you want to combine shipping; they did it for me. Took about a week to get all my lights in the mail.

Just ONE....ONE LED from SuperBright is $20 before shipping. You can get all the red bulbs you need (6) for $15 before shipping.

I'll take video for anyone who wants to see before they buy.

I thought I was getting a good deal, These prices are obviously the way to go. Im going to call off the kit. Can't compare. Damn free market lol

[DeLorean03]

I thought I was getting a good deal, These prices are obviously the way to go. Im going to call off the kit. Can't compare. Damn free market lol

No problem, bud! Hope I didn't shoot you down or anything; I just didn't want to see you or anyone else pay those kind of prices. Just think, all the money you save, you can buy other goodies for your DeLorean :thumbup:!

[DMCflux]

No problem, bud! Hope I didn't shoot you down or anything; I just didn't want to see you or anyone else pay those kind of prices. Just think, all the money you save, you can buy other goodies for your DeLorean :thumbup:!

I totally understand, thank you!

[Bitsyncmaster]

There are many LED chips that far outperform other LED chips. Usually the best on the market cost the most. So make sure your happy with a bulb before you invest in a large inventory. You really want to see some specifications before you buy but most of those china units don't offer specifications.

[Nicholas R]

I'm really interested in this!! I only have one quetstion that you may or may not be able to answer. I've got the audiovox cruise control and it kicks off with the brake light circuit. When I installed it about 5 years ago, I had LED brake lights and it caused issues requiring me to switch back to incandescent bulbs. I assume it had to do with the high resistance of the LEDs leading to the very low current draw, not being a strong enough to trip the system.

That being said, any idea what the current draw is on these and how it compares to an incandescent bulb? Also any idea if the LEDs are bipolar? I'm probably down for a kit either way but it would definitely be nice knowing whether or not they'll work with the CC. Even if not I may still be able to rig something up.

[DMCflux]

I'm really interested in this!! I only have one quetstion that you may or may not be able to answer. I've got the audiovox cruise control and it kicks off with the brake light circuit. When I installed it about 5 years ago, I had LED brake lights and it caused issues requiring me to switch back to incandescent bulbs. I assume it had to do with the high resistance of the LEDs leading to the very low current draw, not being a strong enough to trip the system.

That being said, any idea what the current draw is on these and how it compares to an incandescent bulb? Also any idea if the LEDs are bipolar? I'm probably down for a kit either way but it would definitely be nice knowing whether or not they'll work with the CC. Even if not I may still be able to rig something up.

Nick, here are the specs on the LEDs I was going to supply:

Product Specifications
Base 1156 Beam Pattern 360 degree
LED Amount 45 LEDs
Lifetime 30000 Hours Lumen (Max) 220 Lumen
Operating Temperature -35~+85 °C Polarized Yes
Storage Temperature -40~+100 °C
Operating Voltage 10~30 VD

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I'm really interested in this!! I only have one quetstion that you may or may not be able to answer. I've got the audiovox cruise control and it kicks off with the brake light circuit. When I installed it about 5 years ago, I had LED brake lights and it caused issues requiring me to switch back to incandescent bulbs. I assume it had to do with the high resistance of the LEDs leading to the very low current draw, not being a strong enough to trip the system.

That being said, any idea what the current draw is on these and how it compares to an incandescent bulb? Also any idea if the LEDs are bipolar? I'm probably down for a kit either way but it would definitely be nice knowing whether or not they'll work with the CC. Even if not I may still be able to rig something up.

Nicholas, you have to add a relay to the brake light switch that provides a ground signal when the brake is used for cruise control to work. The wiring is easy. Just look up leds audiovox cruise control relay on google.

[Dangermouse]

I have 45 SMD's in all locations except the tail light which is SMD 18.

All of the lights are significantly brighter than stock. I never realized how wimpy the rear lighting is until you drive behind a caravan of deloreans.

Is the SMD18 tail-light brighter than the stock brake lights?

I assume you didn't use the SMD45 in the taillight as it would look like you were permanently braking

[OutOfTime]

Do not get your LEDs from superbright. You are WAY overpaying. Get these - I have them installed in my car and are great. Nick (LS1) has seen them, and I am confident he'd vouch that they're outstanding.

....

I'll take video for anyone who wants to see before they buy.

I would love to see a video.

Perhaps we can put together a comprehensive list on this thread of how many of each bulbs to order and I will try and get a package set up with the eBay vendor. If somebody can list the total numbers of each bulb required I will contact the vendor. Thanks

[dmc6960]

Correct me if I'm wrong, but those LEDs linked to on Ebay are NOT the same units as the 45smd and 18smd ones initially being proposed here. Quite frankly, they look like a crap product compared to the "superbrightleds.com" ones. I'd pay extra to know I'm getting a better product.

[OutOfTime]

I think I found the video


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9MBuS2z0zSc

[dmc6960]

Well that confirms it then. I do NOT want those eBay units.

[1batt4u]

I just ordered the front turn signal LED bulbs from them on ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/380230532655?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Gonna see how bright they are. They mention "Double the Light Output!", so we'll see if they are actually much brighter, double the brightness of an incandescent bulbs.

[DeLorean03]

Buy one from eBay. Give it a try. Sometimes, what looks badly on video looks great face to face.

Just a suggestion.

[OutOfTime]

Buy one from eBay. Give it a try. Sometimes, what looks badly on video looks great face to face.

Just a suggestion.

Can you post a list of how many of each bulbs we need?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bought a couple of Ebay LEDs from China a little while ago to put in my daily driver. They were crap. Very dim LEDs on them. They were very inexpensive so I got what I paid for. Turns out anyway my Malibu computer contols the flash of the bulbs so I could not use LEDs in it because they would not flash.

[DMC5180]

Is the SMD18 tail-light brighter than the stock brake lights?

I assume you didn't use the SMD45 in the taillight as it would look like you were permanently braking

The 18 is brighter than a stock taillight and less than the 45. Also the taillight does not have mirrored reflector. It uses a prism style reflector to spread the light within the housing.

[jawn101]

This thread is serious information overload at this point. Now I'm hoping you guys actually *do* throw together a kit, or at least a source list with part numbers like Ozzie did back in the day. I followed his list and was more or less happy with the results. I did cheap out on the taillight clusters and that's where the disappointment began.

[DeLorean03]

I bought a couple of Ebay LEDs from China a little while ago to put in my daily driver. They were crap. Very dim LEDs on them. They were very inexpensive so I got what I paid for. Turns out anyway my Malibu computer contols the flash of the bulbs so I could not use LEDs in it because they would not flash.

You do realize the links I provided are from a company in Georgia, right?


Can you post a list of how many of each bulbs we need?


You need 6 red bulbs for the back tail lights, 2 amber bulbs for the turn signals and 2 white ones for the reverse lights. All the links I provided earlier in this thread are the exact bulbs I used, and I have been pleased with the bulbs going on 2 years now.

The problem with LEDs (or subjects like this) is the results are so subjective. What looks great to me looks like crap to others and vice versa. I'll just say this: you do not need to spend $20 per LED bulb to have nice LEDs.

What I did was buy one of what I wanted to try just to see how the LEDs would work. Once I was pleased with the results, I ordered the quantity of what I needed.

I find it amusing the we will pay hundreds of dollars for parts on our cars, but then hesitation is shown to buy a $10 pair of LEDs.

Bottom line, I am happy with what is in my car, and the bulbs are sufficient for my needs. If you think I would put inferior LEDs in my car and drive around with dim tail light bulbs in my DeLorean, you are a couple cans short of a full 6 pack.

[OutOfTime]

Thank you for your reply. I think 'to each his own' and Im willing to 'risk' a few dollars to try these LEDs out. Thank you for posting on the name and for listing out the parts required.

Mark

[DeLorean03]

Thank you for your reply. I think 'to each his own' and Im willing to 'risk' a few dollars to try these LEDs out. Thank you for posting on the name and for listing out the parts required.

Mark

No problem, Mark! Thank you for being respectful and courteous. If you need any more help, let me or Ozzie know!

[dmc6960]

I find it amusing the we will pay hundreds of dollars for parts on our cars, but then hesitation is shown to buy a $10 pair of LEDs.

I'm one of those extremely picky people regarding parts for my D. I'm more than happy to spend more money on a better product. I know Dennis is very picky as well, and if he approves *specifically* of the SuperBright style 45smd and 18smd then I'm skeptical of any others. I am going to see his car first hand in one week which would just be the final confirmation of my approval of those LEDs. I am disappointed that this bulk buy of those previously stated styles has been cancelled because of cheaper products.

[DMCflux]

I'm one of those extremely picky people regarding parts for my D. I'm more than happy to spend more money on a better product. I know Dennis is very picky as well, and if he approves *specifically* of the SuperBright style 45smd and 18smd then I'm skeptical of any others. I am going to see his car first hand in one week which would just be the final confirmation of my approval of those LEDs. I am disappointed that this bulk buy of those previously stated styles has been cancelled because of cheaper products.

I am too. I have no problem offering the kit again at a later time. I have tried other LEDs and they were just no good as far as quality and lighting. I will have to wait and see if those who opt for the eBay ones are happy, if not then I'd be more than happy to re offer the kit. I didnt want to have $ tied up in something that people were going to opt out of after a "similar" product was made know at a cheaper price.

[DeLorean03]

I'm one of those extremely picky people regarding parts for my D.
I'm more than happy to spend more money on a better product.

But the thing is you haven't even tried them. You're so sure of other people's opinions of a product that you haven't tried an alternative that just so happens to be maybe less expensive and still the same product for yourself. Have you done any research, testing, or measurements to prove that SuperBrights are better than the alternatives?

A hammer from Home Depot is the same as buying a hammer from Sears - one just costs more than the other. The same is going on here with Superbrights versus another source: it's the same product at different prices.

Here's my thought on it, I can't get everyone to try "cheaper" alternatives. I'm not even trying to do that; I'm just making others aware of their choices. I understand that there is a "you get what you pay for" mentality, and I feel that has a lot of merit on a myriad of products.


The thing here is no one can tell me that the option I have made here is not worth its time and salt. To the best of my knowledge, Ozzie and I are the only two that have tried the Superbrights and the GPs in our cars(and I'm basing that on the fact that Ozzie listed the GPs on his blog as alternatives - just because he listed them DOES NOT mean he's tried them). Photos can't tell you everything - videos can't tell you everything - sometimes, you just have to bite the bullet and try things for yourself.

As it has been stated not just by myself but others here, "once I see it for myself...." is the ultimate conviction. Some of us choose to actually try it for ourselves, and I give credit to so many of you on that note. Dave with his excellent solid state updates, Jim with your EFI system, and Ozzie and myself with experimenting with LEDs and taking and giving our knowledge away to help the rest of you.

** DISCLAIMER - not attacking ANYONE in particular here, just explaining my points with examples. No one, please, take anything personally from here. **


A $10k engine conversion from a vendor - THAT I can see being skeptical and saying "Well, let me wait and see it on So-an-so's car, and then I'll consider it....". For me, I did business with SuperBright for YEARS. Back in 2004, I was trying all sorts of LED lights and combinations. But then I saw other options, and I saw that "cheaper" alternatives were available. And you want to know the two things that made me walk away from SuperBright? Here they are:

I was paying double to triple the price for "SuperBright's amazing" LEDs, I bought LEDs from an alternative source at 1/3 the cost and I saw:

1. No visible difference
2. SuperBright's LEDs were burning out much more often than I was comfortable with. The ones that I buy from eBay - in 3 years - I think I have had one burn out and that was because it was dead on arrival, and they were willing and ready to send me new ones.

And while I am thinking about it, to not buy something from a company because "it's on eBay" is just absurd. The company I buy them from has their own website:

http://www.ipremiertek.com/

And so just to be safe, I checked the makers of the LEDs, they are GP Thunder, and here is their website:

http://www.gp-thunder.net/index.php/

Their location is in Georgia - not China.

Guess since DeLorean Motor Company of Houston sells stuff on eBay, we shouldn't buy from them either :rolleyes1: .

I hate going on rants and saying so much here because the longer it goes, the more the points become irrelevant and it's just banter for banter's sake. The bottom line, and I really don't want to type anymore books here on the forums, is I just want people to:

A. Know the options they have.
B. Think for themselves and decide what they want.

[DMC5180]

FWIW It does not matter if the company is in Georgia. the Products are made in China. Same goes for Superbrite. St. louis, MO. The 1165 base 18 and 45 SMD units are made in Taiwan R.O.C.

I can attest that 7 years ago LED offerings were in there infancy had a lot to be desired. Many of those LED units are still on the market today. I would NOT install them if you paid me too. Fortunately they finally figured out what it takes to make these units perform. Are the SUPERBRIGHT LED Overpriced? YES and NO. I recently looked into some PCB mounted SMD's they were over $1.00 ea. in VERY HIGH qty $0.51 ea. so take those numbers and do the math 45 SMD about $22.50 in chips not including mfg. and other components.

[Bitsyncmaster]

FWIW It does not matter if the company is in Georgia. the Products are made in China. Same goes for Superbrite. St. louis, MO. The 1165 base 18 and 45 SMD units are made in Taiwan R.O.C.

I can attest that 7 years ago LED offerings were in there infancy had a lot to be desired. Many of those LED units are still on the market today. I would NOT install them if you paid me too. Fortunately they finally figured out what it takes to make these units perform. Are the SUPERBRIGHT LED Overpriced? YES and NO. I recently looked into some PCB mounted SMD's they were over $1.00 ea. in VERY HIGH qty $0.51 ea. so take those numbers and do the math 45 SMD about $22.50 in chips not including mfg. and other components.

+1
There will always be better (brighter) and lower cost units as time goes by. So you just have to bite the bullet and install what works now. I'm still running brake and front signal units I bought off ebay 5 years ago. When I design my own LEDs I tend to use the best (high cost) components because I'm looking for the most light with the least power. My dome lights used chip LEDs that cost me $1.20 each. I would bet I can get equivalent chip LEDs now for 30 cents each.

So as everyone is suggesting, buy one or look at the results of another car and decide if your happy with that.

[Dangermouse]

Looking on the premiertek website I see that they have at least six different types of red 1156 bulbs

http://www.hidlightsusa.com/shopping.asp?c=LED&sc=1156

I don't see how one can choose between them without just trying a couple, at at these prices they are almost disposable.

These are the $6 ones

http://www.hidlightsusa.com/images/prd_1156-20R_full.jpg

they also have these for $9

http://www.hidlightsusa.com/images/1156SMD-18R.jpg

A better bulb, I presume?

[OutOfTime]

If you guys want to try the enire set its $33 shipped, I contacted them this morning

For 1156 SMD 19 White is $13.98
1156 LED 20 Amber $5.99
1157 LED 20 Red $5.99
Total is $25.96 + $11.99 = $37.95 shipped from ebay.

Total is $33.00 shipped direct from them.

Call Marc at 678-407-2062
http://www.hidlightsusa.com

[DMC5180]

if you guys want to try the enire set its $33 shipped, i contacted them this morning

for 1156 smd 19 white is $13.98
1156 led 20 amber $5.99
1157 led 20 red $5.99
total is $25.96 + $11.99 = $37.95 shipped from ebay.

Total is $33.00 shipped direct from them.

Call marc at 678-407-2062
http://www.hidlightsusa.com

1157 red ????


Btw: Those CREE bulbs look intriguing. Anyone care to experiment with them?

[DMC5180]

I tried to take a Photo of my Tail light group today but they just don't photograph well. They come off looking HOT ORANGE rather than RED. Jim, I think you will be pleasantly surprised how good they look when you see them next weekend. The only weird thing I have going on is when I step on the brake pedal I get a double flash to ON. I think it's something in the switch. If I do a slow or soft push on the pedal it noticeable. If I do fast/firm push it does not seem to do it. I was told by some guys following me during the INDY caravan that the Brake lights would do a quick flash to ON. They wondered if it was on purpose and that it helped get there attention. I told them it was the first I knew about it and NO it was just an odd coincidence. When I tried taking a photo this afternoon I turned all the Lights ON and Wedged the brake pedal. As I was setting the brakes I noticed the Double flash (more like a flicker flash) reflect off my garage door . Now I see what those guys were talking about. Cool and Odd.

[SS Spoiler]

Dennis don't try to fix it, major cool safety feature......

[NightFlyer]

1157 red ????


Btw: Those CREE bulbs look intriguing. Anyone care to experiment with them?

I just ordered a full set of the 5W Cree Q5 bulbs with 12 3-chip SMDs for 1798's tail-lights earlier today off eBay! Will post comparison pics to the standard incandescent once I receive them and have time to install!

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-2pcs-1156-1093-BA15S-1159-SMD-5Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-White-/161041400266?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257ed0c1ca&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1156-S25-Single-Filament-5W-CREE-12-SMD-LED-Light-CREE-Q5-LED-Brilliant-Red-/200924551222?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8095836&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-Pair-1156-7506-3497-7527-5008-SMD-5Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-Amber-/400500684316?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5d3fb3761c&vxp=mtr

[dvonk]

I just ordered a full set of the 5W Cree Q5 bulbs with 12 3-chip SMDs for 1798's tail-lights earlier today off eBay! Will post comparison pics to the standard incandescent once I receive them and have time to install!

i am indeed curious to see your results! the CREE bulbs are significantly more expensive, but CREE does make really bright LEDs.

[DMC5180]

This is what I have in my car from SuperbrightLED and I am very happy with the performance. Had I known about the ipremiertek website back then I would have likely gone with them in the same or similar configurations.

1. 6 SMD BA9 base 2 RED and 2 AMBER marker Lights. Unit is positioned horizontally so the single chips point into the reflector zones. It does a nice job without having to modify the housing like Tom N's units. (I'm NOT knocking His. They had not been known to the public when I did mine.)

19721

2. 5 SMD 194 base 2 RED and 4 AMBER Door Lights which replaced the OLDER (LED) style shown. These do a MUCH better job of filling the lens without having the HOT spot of the old style.


19722 19723

3. 1156 18 SMD (TAIL LIGHT only)


19724
4. 1156 45 SMD ( 2 AMBER, 4 RED, 2COOL WHITE) Rear signal, Brake, and reverse.
1157 45 SMD ( 2 AMBER) front signal/Park
19725
5. 30 SMD panels with adjustable Festoon adapter in the License plate light fixtures. This was dramatic improvement. NOTE: the lens housings are not water tight, making it possible for water to get in. Whether it will or not I don't know, but it does manage to collect dust/dirt over time.
19726


6. 6 SMD Festoon (Trunk and Dome) This REALLY lights up the trunk area. So much so I may incorporate a blinder to block light incursion to passenger compartment. You know it's bright when your wife puts on sunglasses at night while you are getting fuel :biggrin:.
19727

[DeLorean03]

Hey Dennis,

Wow - #2,3 and 6 look identical to what I have in my car. And I know exactly what you mean with the dome light. When turning mine on, it is super bright - the SMDs pop so well. SMDs are easily the only way to go now - the older cluster LEDs from 2004-2008 = done.

Are you going to be at the DMCMW open house??

[jawn101]

Those SMD BA9s look really cool, but wow those 45 SMD 1156s are pricey.

[DMC5180]

hey dennis,

wow - #2,3 and 6 look identical to what i have in my car. And i know exactly what you mean with the dome light. When turning mine on, it is super bright - the smds pop so well. Smds are easily the only way to go now - the older cluster leds from 2004-2008 = done.

Are you going to be at the dmcmw open house??

yes!

[DMC5180]

Those SMD BA9s look really cool, but wow those 45 SMD 1156s are pricey.

Yeah, tell me about it. Hence, my statement. Had I known about ipremiertek, I would have likely gone with them and saved some serious $$$. Live and learn as they say.

Note: that flat board style BA9 just fits in the housing. The style that would be similar to all the the other ones I used is too TALL.

[DeLorean03]

yes!

Me too! I look forward to seeing your setup!

My car will not be present. Julee really, really wants me to bring it, but 80mph with cruise control is always such a pleasure in a rental car!

Besides, with a rental car, I have so much more space for parts I'm going to be buying ;).

Those BA9s are wild looking! These are what I used with the appropriate colors of course:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261042056422?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Unfortunately, Premier hasn't gotten these kinds of bulbs yet (to my knowledge), so I took a bit of a gamble. They look pretty awesome; it's just really hard to fill the side lens completely and fully.

[DMC5180]

Me too! I look forward to seeing your setup!

My car will not be present. Julee really, really wants me to bring it, but 80mph with cruise control is always such a pleasure in a rental car!

Besides, with a rental car, I have so much more space for parts I'm going to be buying ;).

Those BA9s are wild looking! These are what I used with the appropriate colors of course:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261042056422?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

Unfortunately, Premier hasn't gotten these kinds of bulbs yet (to my knowledge), so I took a bit of a gamble. They look pretty awesome; it's just really hard to fill the side lens completely and fully.

It's good to know those are available in a size that fits in the housing.

Superbright only had this 9 SMD version which is too tall. The other thing is you don't really need the top SMD chip for lens illumination. But now I'm curious see what yours would look like though.

19728


It is hard to fill the reflector zones no matter what, short of modifying the housing and I'm not interested in doing that.

[1batt4u]

I just received the bulbs I ordered, http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-1156-7506-5007-BA15S-20-LED-Amber-Tail-Marker-Signal-Light-Bulbs-NEW-/400097666557?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d27ade5fd

Don't like them at all!!!

1. They are not brighter than the stock bulb at all!
2. They are a very dark orange when lit, almost golden brown.
3. You can see the LEDs through the turn signal easily.

I have the superbrightled bulbs as well, which look great, just as good as the stock bulb, but just a little dimmer than the stock bulb.

Here are comparison pictures.

http://i43.tinypic.com/2mxn1ht.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/3trhi.jpg

[1batt4u]

@ DMCflux, I guess go for it!!

We need a good set of LED bulbs at a reaosnable price, and much brighter than stock incandescent bulbs!

I am also in the Knight Rider community. I sold my car a year ago, but hopefully I will get another one sometime. All these Knight Rider cars have the Blackout covers front and back, and they dim out the light bulbs. It would be great to have a nice set of LED bulbs that are really bright and can be seen easily through the blackouts. Theses cars also have a lot of bulbs/leds/monitor screens/front scanner light bar, and other things running. So LED would be a plus, use less electricity.

[dmc6960]

THANK YOU Billy. This is exactly what I suspected.

[1batt4u]

Just realized I mixed up the wording on the superbright bulb, supposed to write: 1156 LED Bulb - 45 SMD LED Tower

[Steven]

I found these on eBay, looks very similar to Super Bright 1157 LEDs: http://r.ebay.com/b4Qihb

[Bitsyncmaster]

Your side by side (incandescent and LED) photos give us a pretty good expectation of that LED. I held my computer with your photos up to my front turn signals (just park lights) and even my 5 year old LEDs are better than your bad ones and not as good as the superbright ones.

[DeLorean03]

But now I'm curious see what yours would look like though.

19728





I'll take some night time pictures tonight and get those up here for you to see, Dennis!

[DeLorean03]

I just received the bulbs I ordered, http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-1156-7506-5007-BA15S-20-LED-Amber-Tail-Marker-Signal-Light-Bulbs-NEW-/400097666557?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5d27ade5fd

Don't like them at all!!!



I may have missed something, but..............

I looked at the item you bought. I "ctrl+F" 'd that auction; no where in that item description did it mention SMD LEDs. From the looks of that auction you bought regular LEDs; you did NOT get the SMD style lights that I recommended.

Your comparison of SuperBrights SMD LED to iPremierTek's LED is a literal apples to oranges comparison. It proves nothing .

Hope I don't sound like a jerk, but I am just saying....


This:

19729

DOES NOT EQUAL

19730

[DeLorean03]

I just 2x checked my original post.

I am the one at fault - I am the one to blame for this one. I gave the WRONG bulb link. Holy crap.

1Batt, I'm going to buy you a set of SMDs. I own that situation, and you bought the wrong LEDs because of me. I'll PM you about this.

Holy crap, I totally and completely referenced the wrong bulbs. THESE ARE THE ONES YOU WANT:

AMBER SMD LEDs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Pair-1156-1141-3497-7506-SMD-18-LED-Light-2-Bulbs-Amber-/380335734458?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item588dc6beba

RED SMD LEDs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-Pair-1156-1073-1141-7506-SMD-LED-Turn-Signal-Tail-Light-Bulbs-Red-NEW-/380236989920?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item5887e405e0

WHITE SMD LEDs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-1156-1073-1141-SMD-LED-Marker-Turn-Signal-Light-Bulbs-Super-White-NEW-/120747339617?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&vxp=mtr&hash=item1c1d1a2f61

Wow........ That gets the "Oops of the Year" award..... (/)_-) ....

[DMC5180]

WOW, There seems to be a revelation in sourcing reasonable Priced SMD's . I'm beginning to think we found the supplier for SuperBrightLED's although my 18 and 45 SMD packages said made in Taiwan. If only we had been talking about this subject 3 months ago.

[Bitsyncmaster]

SMD is short for surface mount devices. You can get non-SMD LEDs that are just a good as the best SMD devices. It's just the way they mount on a circuit board (with wires through holes or on a pad without a hole). It's just that most everything now is mostly offered in SMD packages. It makes assembaly usally cost less and can be made in a smaller package.

[DeLorean03]

WOW, There seems to be a revelation in sourcing reasonable Priced SMD's . I'm beginning to think we found the supplier for SuperBrightLED's although my 18 and 45 SMD packages said made in Taiwan. If only we had been talking about this subject 3 months ago.

Man, if that's the case - that's "yay" and "boo" at the same time. Dennis, what tail lights you got rocking in your car right now? Just curious for some kind of baseline as to what you use Are they the ones you posted with pictures of earlier - numbers 1 through 6 post?

Check these bad boys I just now paid for and am getting hopefully by the end of this week:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/161041393497?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I just paid $24 for 6 (3 pairs) of those. If they come in on time, you want me to bring them to DMCMW's open house???

[DMC5180]

SMD is short for surface mount devices. You can get non-SMD LEDs that are just a good as the best SMD devices. It's just the way they mount on a circuit board (with wires through holes or on a pad without a hole). It's just that most everything now is mostly offered in SMD packages. It makes assembaly usally cost less and can be made in a smaller package.

Well I guess you learn something new everyday. Here I thought it meant SURFACE MOUNT DIODE. Seems strange to use the term surface mount devices. That would apply to a lot of board mounted devides, not just Light Emitting Diodes.

[NightFlyer]

Seems that my first order did not go through, as I was never prompted to pay. So, I placed my order again after making a slight variation to the red colored LEDs, and actually paid this time. For those interested, here's what I'm doing in terms of the tail lights:

Reverse 2 x GP Thunder 1156 BA15S 12-3pc SMD 5Watt CREE Q5 LED White $19.79
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-2pcs-1156-1093-BA15S-1159-SMD-5Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-White-/161041400266?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257ed0c1ca&vxp=mtr

Turn Signal 2 x GP Thunder 1156 BA15S 12-3pc SMD 5Watt CREE Q5 LED Amber $17.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-Pair-1156-BA15S-12-SMD-Plus-5-Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-Amber-/161041643400?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257ed47788&vxp=mtr

Brake/Tail 6 x Genssi AGT 1156 BA15S 12-3pc SMD 5Watt CREE Q5 LED Red $73.96
http://www.amazon.com/Genssi-Light-Brake-Replacement-bulbs/dp/B00BBL67DQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1370723963&sr=8-5&keywords=1156-5W12-R

As before, as I get them and have a chance to install, I'll post some side-by-side comparison pics vs standard incandescents (as that's all I have to compare against).

[DMC5180]

Man, if that's the case - that's "yay" and "boo" at the same time. Dennis, what tail lights you got rocking in your car right now? Just curious for some kind of baseline as to what you use Are they the ones you posted with pictures of earlier - numbers 1 through 6 post?

Everything I posted earlier is what is in the car now. 1156 (18 SMD) is in the Taillight position only.

I took a few shots of my Park light which is @ 50% level (Signal Light is 100% level) and the markers. AGAIN LED's APPEAR HOTTER in photos than they are and do not show the true colors.

Park/turn is 1157 (45 SMD)
19731 19732 19733

[Tillsy]

Well I guess you learn something new everyday. Here I thought it meant SURFACE MOUNT DIODE. Seems strange to use the term surface mount devices. That would apply to a lot of board mounted devides, not just Light Emitting Diodes.

That's exactly the point, everything is surface mount these days:
Resistors
Capacitors
Transistors
Diodes
Fuses
LEDs
Even most microchips are SMD these days

That's why when you look at a modern circuit they are covered in tiny little squares instead of bulky components - nightmare to work with by hand but huge advantages.

[DeLorean03]

All right, here is a video from all of 15 minutes ago showcasing my SMD LEDs - all tail lights and side markers - in pretty much pitch black darkness.

The taillights are all 18 SMD LEDs. If you want to know EXACTLY which ones, and actually be the right LEDs this time, go to this link earlier in this thread here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7302-LED-Tailight-kit&p=107056&viewfull=1#post107056

The sidemarkers are these bulbs here:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261042056422?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

I'll be installing the 60+ SMD LEDs per bulb for the brake lights and running lights later next week and updating with a new video accordingly. If I'm happy with those, the turn signals will be getting updated as well - possibly with those new CREE LEDs and those are really getting my attention.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XkkzXRdG2A4&feature=youtu.be

[DMC5180]

HMM, I may have to try those 5 SMD BA9 markers now that I know they are available.

[DeLorean03]

All right, so my order for the LED bulbs with 68 LEDs each was canceled because they are out of stock. So I'm going to experiment here, I bought the new CREE LEDs. Saw some comparison videos of these new LEDs vs incads, and I was convinced to pop $45 for a set of 6 of them. We'll see how they work soon.........

http://www.ebay.com/itm/121049641407?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

[Dangermouse]

well, twice now last week and this week, I was all set to buy some on ebay, but I will hold off once again and see how these new ones work out. I love this R&D. Keep up the good work.

[jawn101]

For what it's worth, there is a coupon code at SuperbrightLEDs.com good for 10% off, valid until the 16th. "DAD2013"

[jawn101]

This is what I have in my car from SuperbrightLED and I am very happy with the performance. Had I known about the ipremiertek website back then I would have likely gone with them in the same or similar configurations.

1. 6 SMD BA9 base 2 RED and 2 AMBER marker Lights. Unit is positioned horizontally so the single chips point into the reflector zones. It does a nice job without having to modify the housing like Tom N's units. (I'm NOT knocking His. They had not been known to the public when I did mine.)

19721

2. 5 SMD 194 base 2 RED and 4 AMBER Door Lights which replaced the OLDER (LED) style shown. These do a MUCH better job of filling the lens without having the HOT spot of the old style.


19722 19723

3. 1156 18 SMD (TAIL LIGHT only)


19724
4. 1156 45 SMD ( 2 AMBER, 4 RED, 2COOL WHITE) Rear signal, Brake, and reverse.
1157 45 SMD ( 2 AMBER) front signal/Park
19725
5. 30 SMD panels with adjustable Festoon adapter in the License plate light fixtures. This was dramatic improvement. NOTE: the lens housings are not water tight, making it possible for water to get in. Whether it will or not I don't know, but it does manage to collect dust/dirt over time.
19726


6. 6 SMD Festoon (Trunk and Dome) This REALLY lights up the trunk area. So much so I may incorporate a blinder to block light incursion to passenger compartment. You know it's bright when your wife puts on sunglasses at night while you are getting fuel :biggrin:.
19727

OK, here's a question - Dennis, you have those 45 SMD LED towers in the brake/reverse/turn signals - does the 360 degree angle really do anything for this application? Or would something like this (a bright, forward-projecting model) be sufficient or even better?

http://cdn6.superbrightleds.com/timthumb.php?q=90&src=http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/1157-x3W-led-tail-brake-bulb-store.jpg&w=160

When I originally did mine, I ended up with some off eBay that were very similar to this http://cdn3.superbrightleds.com/timthumb.php?q=90&src=http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/7443-x18-t-9-led-tail-brake-bulb-store.jpg&w=160 - only with the correct base, of course. 18 SMD towers. They were terrible. I kept them in the reverse lights and taillights only, but the brakes/turn signals (both front and rear) are sitting in a box now.

[NightFlyer]

OK, here's a question - Dennis, you have those 45 SMD LED towers in the brake/reverse/turn signals - does the 360 degree angle really do anything for this application? Or would something like this (a bright, forward-projecting model) be sufficient or even better?

http://cdn6.superbrightleds.com/timthumb.php?q=90&src=http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/1157-x3W-led-tail-brake-bulb-store.jpg&w=160

When I originally did mine, I ended up with some off eBay that were very similar to this http://cdn3.superbrightleds.com/timthumb.php?q=90&src=http://d114hh0cykhyb0.cloudfront.net/images/uploads/7443-x18-t-9-led-tail-brake-bulb-store.jpg&w=160 - only with the correct base, of course. 18 SMD towers. They were terrible. I kept them in the reverse lights and taillights only, but the brakes/turn signals (both front and rear) are sitting in a box now.

You could go with what I ordered, as it combines the focused forward projection and 360 degree angle all in one bulb!

http://www.hid-lights.com/pictures/GP1156-CREE-12W/GP1156-CREE-12W_ON.jpg
http://www.hid-lights.com/pictures/GP1156-CREE-12A/GP1156-CREE-12A_ON.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/61%2B%2BI4%2B5Y2L._SL1080_.jpg

I haven't gotten them yet, and it will probably be a while before I actually get around to getting them installed (probably within a month), but I promise to post pics once I do. Here's the links:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-2pcs-1156-1093-BA15S-1159-SMD-5Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-White-/161041400266?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257ed0c1ca&vxp=mtr

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-Pair-1156-BA15S-12-SMD-Plus-5-Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-Amber-/161041643400?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257ed47788&vxp=mtr

http://www.amazon.com/Genssi-Light-Brake-Replacement-bulbs/dp/B00BBL67DQ/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1370723963&sr=8-5&keywords=1156-5W12-R

[DMC5180]

Yes, they fill the lens Area with Even Lighting. Older style LEDs that did not have side facing leds would just create a very bright HOT SPOT in the center of the rectangle. TURN,BRAKE,REVERSE rely on Reflection off the MIRRORED surface in the the Back of the chamber for EVEN light fill.

You must have Side facing LEDS for the best performance. It will be interesting to see how those CREE type W/ some side LEDS peform. The side LEDs are mostly for Refector Fill. The CREE shoots a more focused beam. For the purpose of Brake/turn, you don't need to project light. Just Illuminate the lens. The Reverse Light, on othe other hand, could stand to have as much focused Illumintaion as possible. You need it to see behind you. Not for other people to See you. The downside to the Reverse Lens is that it's full of light Refractors (spreaders) so you don't get a nice focused beam pattern.

[Bitsyncmaster]

CREE is an upcoming reputable LED manufacture. I see they are offering many of the LED "chips" I consider using with my designs.

[Steven]

Those 360 degree CREE LEDs looks nice, maybe I'll try those ones too.

[DeLorean03]

Yeah, the CREEs without the SMDs on the side = total waste. Didn't even take a picture or video I was so disgusted. Waste of $45.

[Ozzie]

This thread is serious information overload at this point. Now I'm hoping you guys actually *do* throw together a kit, or at least a source list with part numbers like Ozzie did back in the day. I followed his list and was more or less happy with the results. I did cheap out on the taillight clusters and that's where the disappointment began.

Guys, guys, LED mania rules! Love it. Love to see you guys experimenting and trying out new items.
In reply to jawn101's note above, I did recently publish a a reference list of all the bulbs in our cars, and their LED equivalent. In case you missed it:

Reference: DMCTalk LED Reference Post (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7154-DeLoran-DMC-12-Incandescent-and-LED-Bulb-Reference)
Direct link to document: DeLoran DMC-12 Incandescent and LED Bulb Reference (https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B8tZLEiyQMrAQVFraXNnbUpFalk/edit?usp=sharing)

Yes I do favor SuperbrightLED because they do seem to be selective of which products to sell, and in turn they are high quality products. All of the LEDs in my car from them are still running well, after all these years.


While on the topic, there are 5 major LED manufacturing leaders, in the world right now:
Seoul in Korea,
Phillips, Holland
Nichia in Japan,
Osram in Germany,
Cree in good old USA, Durham, NC.

These 5 are the most innovative and current leaders in LED research and technologies. There are other companies of course, but those are mostly manufacturing companies only.

When I can I favor the Cree products, the home team if you will. ...but you do have to be careful HOW their LEDs are packaged, which what another company will do with LEDs from any of the companies above.

Also, be wary of really cheap eBay LEDs. Sometimes they are ok, but know that, if they are being shipped right from China, you may be buying factory rejects OR LEDs that "fell off the LED truck".


Back to lurking mode for me.
Keep generating those photons on our cars.

[Farrar]

Since all the LED nuts are in one place here... :) I thought I'd mention that I'm working on a few ideas for an LED-illuminated shifter surround for my automatic D. Has anyone else done this, or should I start from scratch?

[DMCflux]

Just wondering if anyone has found an led that is better than the 45smd's made by superbrightleds ?

[Steven]

Just wondering if anyone has found an led that is better than the 45smd's made by superbrightleds ?

On superbrightleds' site it says those 45smd's have a max of Lumen max of 220.

I found these ones on eBay which say "Luminous flux: 800 LM" http://www.ebay.com/itm/321090252485

Might purchase a pair of those off eBay and see how they perform.

[Farrar]

Since all the LED nuts are in one place here... :) I thought I'd mention that I'm working on a few ideas for an LED-illuminated shifter surround for my automatic D. Has anyone else done this, or should I start from scratch?

OK, I'll start from scratch. Thanks for your, er, input.

[NightFlyer]

OK, I'll start from scratch. Thanks for your, er, input.

Depending on how you want it lit up, EL (electroluminescent) might be a better way to go for this application.

[Farrar]

Depending on how you want it lit up, EL (electroluminescent) might be a better way to go for this application.

I have some EL panels to play with at home. Thanks!

[Shep]

Been following this thread for a while, figured I'd give it a jump-start.

There seems to be a lot of model numbers posted with "pictures don't show it well" appended and a severe lack of pictures. Does anyone have LED's that are brighter than stock and evenly fill the lens? I'd like to see pictures of a side-by-side comparison with LED's vs. incandescents for a better understanding of how it compares to what I'm running now, along with the model numbers used. I keep seeing my volt gauge dip when I hit the brakes or change lanes, so I'm ready for an upgrade to LED's, and so far I've only seen one or two pictures of such a comparison, which seemed to show the LED's used were dimmer than stock.

[DeLorean03]

Here's my opinion, and I'm done with this thread:

Go spend a lil' money and try some experimentation. If we're all popping $1000+ for shocks/springs and $400 for fuel pump sender combos, $20-$45 for tail light LEDs is nothing in comparison. Experiment a lil' - try some things that everyone else says "no no no no no!!!" towards.

Bottom line for me - I have run the 18 SMD LEDs in my tail lights for 2 or 3 years now and guess how many rear end collisions I've been in those two years: zero. Buy them from either i_premiertek or premier_tek on ebay, or go to SuperBrightLEDs and get them.

I'll be running the 18 SMD LEDs in all my tail lights - turn signals, brake, running, and reverse lights - and I've had zero issues. No one has ever run up to my window asking me why I didn't brake, and a lot of people here in the DeLorean Club of Ohio have commented and complimented my tail lights in terms of both brightness and response time.

That's all from me.

[Ozzie]

Been following this thread for a while, figured I'd give it a jump-start.

There seems to be a lot of model numbers posted with "pictures don't show it well" appended and a severe lack of pictures. Does anyone have LED's that are brighter than stock and evenly fill the lens? I'd like to see pictures of a side-by-side comparison with LED's vs. incandescents for a better understanding of how it compares to what I'm running now, along with the model numbers used. I keep seeing my volt gauge dip when I hit the brakes or change lanes, so I'm ready for an upgrade to LED's, and so far I've only seen one or two pictures of such a comparison, which seemed to show the LED's used were dimmer than stock.

It IS very difficult to appreciate and to compare LEDs to incandescents in pictures. They're both tricky to photograph individually, much so, side by side. At the DCS show in Orlando I gave a Tech Session on LEDs. I took my rear lens to the presentation, and showed the audience the differences side by side, and everyone seemed to appreciate the similarities and subtle differences between both.

So unless you have someone that can do the same, do as suggested above, start with a pair and see for yourself. The look of LEDs is great, the impact to reduced current drain is the real attraction.

[dmc6960]

Or...

The OP of this thread could go ahead with the bulk purchase of the 45 SMD units. I saw these on Dennis's car at the DMCMW open house, and they did meet my strict requirements in an LED. Why experiment when the OP here was offering us a slam dunk option?

[DeLorean03]

Or...

The OP of this thread could go ahead with the bulk purchase of the 45 SMD units. I saw these on Dennis's car at the DMCMW open house, and they did meet my strict requirements in an LED. Why experiment when the OP here was offering us a slam dunk option?

-__- ...

I repeat, no rear-end collisions in 2-3 years.

Here, I'll just say it for you: you and I don't agree.

Why experiment? Because I would be willing to bet that's what Ozzie did. If he hadn't, we wouldn't have his blog to reference, nor would we have the excellent PDF he made for us to quick reference. He did the work for us. There's always room to try other things. A slam dunk option for you may not be what others want. There's more than "Dennis' way" or "DeLorean03's way" or "Ozzie's way" - there's other possibilities.

And there's certainly other possibilities than paying $25 a bulb. At 10 bulbs (2 turns, 4 brake, 2 running, 2 reverse), that's $250 before shipping. I am sure you're not wanting to put 45 SMD LEDs in each socket, but I'm going for a "slamdunk option" here, so I'll just assume one is going in each socket. I'm not paying $250 for light bulbs. I'll pay $400 for a fuel pump combo that is backed by the president of DMC that is leaps and bounds ahead of the 30 year old junk from 1981. I am not paying $250 for LEDs when I can get 10 bulbs for maybe $75 or so. The difference between 18 and 45 is just not there for me.

Look, we get it - you look up to what Dennis did on his car, and it gets your approval. Cool. Fine. There are other options. You're not necessarily wrong nor am I necessarily right. There's no objective "right" or "wrong" here.

[dmc6960]

I repeat, no rear-end collisions in 2-3 years.

No offense, but that doesn't mean a damn thing.


And there's certainly other possibilities than paying $25 a bulb. At 10 bulbs (2 turns, 4 brake, 2 running, 2 reverse), that's $250 before shipping. I am sure you're not wanting to put 45 SMD LEDs in each socket, but I'm going for a "slamdunk option" here, so I'll just assume one is going in each socket. I'm not paying $250 for light bulbs. I'll pay $400 for a fuel pump combo that is backed by the president of DMC that is leaps and bounds ahead of the 30 year old junk from 1981.

This is what I dont get. You keep quoting the large prices SuperBrightLED charges. But thats not accurate for the original purpose of this thread. This thread was started with the intention of getting these exact same bulbs at a significantly cheaper price.


I am not paying $250 for LEDs when I can get 10 bulbs for maybe $75 or so.

Neither am I, when I could get 10 known-good bulbs for $100. Suddenly not far off from your price now? No experimenting or wasted money.


The difference between 18 and 45 is just not there for me.

Well, it is for me. And its worth an extra $25 easily.

[NightFlyer]

I'm still waiting on the red bulbs that I ordered off Amazon, but I finally received a shipped confirmation on them, so I should have them by the end of the week. I ordered a set of the 5W Cree Projections with 12 360 degree 3-chip 5050 SMDs. The total cost on my set, including shipping, was $105.74.

When they come in, I've agreed to priority mail them to DeLorean03 for video comparison testing vs the 18 SMD bulbs that he prefers and the OEM incandescent. The only other type of taillight bulbs that I'd be interested in seeing/comparing are the 25W Crees, which are admittedly expensive at $20/bulb:

http://imgs.inkfrog.com/pix/elitemailers/B6PBU_001.jpg
http://thmb.inkfrog.com/rsz.php?username=elitemailers&image=1156CREE25W_red.jpg&size=520&gap=0

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1156-25W-CREE-LED-Brilliant-Red-Brake-Stop-Light-Bulbs-1073-1093-1129-/200924344469?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8063095&vxp=mtr

Anyone thinking about going that route?

Perhaps if someone agreed to send a set of the 45 SMD to DeLorean03, and someone else a set of the 25W Crees, we'd have an all inclusive video comparison of the best LED bulbs currently on the market, and then people could make an informed decision without having to experiment on their own, as we'd pretty much have all the bases covered.

After all, isn't that kind of the whole point about this forum/community of owners?

[DeLorean03]

No offense, but that doesn't mean a damn thing.


Sure does. My tail lights are bright.




This is what I dont get. You keep quoting the large prices SuperBrightLED charges. But thats not accurate for the original purpose of this thread. This thread was started with the intention of getting these exact same bulbs at a significantly cheaper price.


This thread has explored multiple areas, so if you're going to pick out one area of it for your convenience, let me try that.

Like this quote from Dennis:


The 18 is brighter than a stock taillight and less than the 45. Also the taillight does not have mirrored reflector. It uses a prism style reflector to spread the light within the housing.

He is saying: incad brightness < 18 LED brightness < 45 LED brightness.

So, Dennis' lights are brighter - by how much - what margin? Do we have anything to compare it to? Do we have 18 vs 45 side by side? Nope. We have just words flying around, and judging by this thread, select few take the time to make such comparisons.




Neither am I, when I could get 10 known-good bulbs for $100. Suddenly not far off from your price now? No experimenting or wasted money.


You're still overpaying -__-. Maybe not as much as Dennis did by no fault of his own. Here's his quote too:


Yeah, tell me about it. Hence, my statement. Had I known about ipremiertek, I would have likely gone with them and saved some serious $$$. Live and learn as they say.


So basically he did the work for you, and he paid the money that SuperBright wanted while you enjoyed the benefits.

What if Dennis had gone to ipremiertek - would you be supporting his findings then? I sure bet you would.

And then to top it all off, SuperBrightLEDs packaging said that they were made in Taiwan.


WOW, There seems to be a revelation in sourcing reasonable Priced SMD's . I'm beginning to think we found the supplier for SuperBrightLED's although my 18 and 45 SMD packages said made in Taiwan. If only we had been talking about this subject 3 months ago.

Earlier in this thread for whatever reason, we go off bad-mouthing products made in China. Taiwan - they're practically the same place (politically speaking). Superbright, impremiertek, premiertek, - they're all in essence the SAME. Got a quote for that too:


FWIW It does not matter if the company is in Georgia. the Products are made in China. Same goes for Superbrite. St. louis, MO. The 1165 base 18 and 45 SMD units are made in Taiwan R.O.C.


You're paying more - whether it be $100 or $250 - for the same bulb. You're right - there was no experimentation - just wasted money.




Well, it is for me. And its worth an extra $25 easily.

With everything said to this point, yes, you'll pay $25 more for you to look at someone else's tail lights and say to yourself: "I like those."

Sorry man, this is just the way I see it. And you want to know the best part: the kits don't exist. And unless the OP decides to reverse his decision, you're going to be paying way more than $100. So yeah, as of this writing, you're paying more than "an extra $25".

[Steven]

I'm buying two different types of LEDs on eBay, I'll post various results and pictures when I receive them ;)

[dmc6960]

Like this quote from Dennis:



He is saying: incad brightness < 18 LED brightness < 45 LED brightness.

So, Dennis' lights are brighter - by how much - what margin? Do we have anything to compare it to? Do we have 18 vs 45 side by side? Nope. We have just words flying around, and judging by this thread, select few take the time to make such comparisons.

No, the 18 SMD is for the RUNNING light position. Not the brake lights. A 45 SMD here would actually look out of place and be too bright. It would look like to the average drier that your braking all the time. The 18 matches or slightly exceeds the apparent brightness of the running light. The 45 matches or slightly exceeds the apparent brightness of the brake and turn lights.



You're still overpaying -__-. Maybe not as much as Dennis did by no fault of his own. Here's his quote too:

So basically he did the work for you, and he paid the money that SuperBright wanted while you enjoyed the benefits.


??? So you don't want other people to get a good deal because someone else didn't?
If it makes you feel any better I gave Dennis nearly $1000 worth of specialized window tint at the Open House. At no cost.

[Shep]

Uh, okay wow, didn't mean to start a flame war or anything. Just asking if anyone has comparison pictures. I know color won't be accurate (frankly that's the fault of unadjusted or inaccurately adjusted screens more than the camera, especially when viewing with mobile devices), but I'm not that picky on color as long as it works and amber isn't red. I'm hoping to compare brightness and how evenly it fills the lens vs. stock, that's all.

[DeLorean03]

Uh, okay wow, didn't mean to start a flame war or anything.

You didn't bud. Jim and I are just doing our thing. Welcome to the internet; there are cakes and cookies on the table (:

I don't want people to pay more because others didn't get a good deal - I want people to experiment. Just like Ozzie and I did. Just like others here (multiple others here in this thread) are now doing - they're trying new stuff. Because once again, the kits aren't happening - so people are trying new things instead of being stuck with incads.

As for him and me arguing - we've both made our points - we could do this as long as both of us can type. I don't want to drag it out any longer. He likes 45's; I like 18's. Anyone got a red 1156 45 SMD to send me - I'll do a comparison video of 45 SMDs vs 18 SMDs in the brake lights. If not, then my part in this discussion is done - for now.

As for Jim - my olive branch is extended - hope we're good. If so, great - if not - that's good too!

[RIUM+]

I swapped all the LEDs in my car with 18/45-SMD bulbs from SuperBrightLeds.com last year. Expensive, but my time is valuable & I know the quality of their components from past purchases whereas I don't know the quality of eBay sellers.

At the same time I painted the walls of the reflectors white (why they used black plastic inside light reflectors is beyond me. This greatly helps even out the light distribution pattern, and the lenses are MUCH more evenly lit. It's a bit fiddly with a small paint brush, but just painting where you can reach is still quite an improvement. I measured the difference in brightness at a distance of 1m with the stock incandescent bulbs - painting the reflector walls white resulted in a 1% to 29% increase in lumens, but the main impact is in smoothing out the light distribution.

If you've got the right equipment it's actually quite possible to photograph LEDs in a realistic fashion, but your phone's camera won't do it (taking photos during an overcast day will greatly help though, at night your sensor won't auto-adjust as well & you'll get clipping). A decent DSLR with proper glass lenses shooting in manual/RAW mode will get you a lot of the way there. Add in a lumen meter, reference boards, calibrating all the equipment & some slight post-modification to match the various wavelength response curves & you can create images that look just like real life. :)

The following image is, for all intents & purposes, "true to reality". Best viewed with a calibrated IPS monitor in the latest version of Firefox, Chrome or Safari (Internet Explorer doesn't play nice with ICC-tagged images, it'll still display without this stuff but not as accurately). Incandescents in black lens surrounds on the left, LEDs in my painted-white lens surrounds on the right. Just note that the incandescent indicator light isn't at full brightness in this photo because these images were taken with a long exposure.

http://www.riumplus.com/delorean/tail_light_comparison.jpg


They're basically equivalent in brightness to the stock incandescents. Video comparison of the two (I don't have an expensive video camera & this video isn't calibrated so you'll see the lights overexposing the sensor)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7NDdQtwFS58


Side note - I timed the timing difference to reach >75% brightness between the incandescents & the LEDs while the engine was idling on my car with its 140A alternator & a fully-charged battery (aka - trying to make things as best I can for the incandescents, not necessarily the "average" DeLorean). The incandescent brake lights illuminated ~280ms after the LEDs. 280ms might not sound like much, but at 35 miles/hour that's equal to the length of an entire DeLorean... That's literally the difference between a close call & a write-off. Rear-end collisions aren't that common but it's a decent safety upgrade for the price!

[dvonk]

thank you for that post, Mike. your analysis has been the most thorough, controlled comparison to date.

looks like painting the reflectors helps even out the light distribution nicely. i also really liked the fact that you were able to quantify the percentage of lumen increase.

good job! :thumbup:

[DMC5180]

Mike, I'm not sure why you painted the inside of your reflectors. The inside of the REVERSE,BRAKE and TURN are Chromed for reflection. Mine were a little dusty but other than that they were fine. You do have an and early VIN so it's possible the chroming was added later in production. The TAIL uses a prism reflector to spread the light.

[Bitsyncmaster]

It's been a long time but I thought my rear lights had silver plating inside the reflectors. If not, I may pull them and paint them like you did.


Edit. Dennis, "missed it byt that much"

[RIUM+]

Interesting... mine were completely black - and a fairly rough matte texture too, not even a glossy black! That was the whole reason why I painted them, because there's no way you'd get much reflection from a matte black surface. This might be another difference between early/later VIN vehicles. In which case, ignore my recommendation to paint your reflectors if they're already chromed. :)

[Dangermouse]

Who in their right mind would make lighting with black reflectors??

I wonder was the "chrome" poorly applied and just peeled off?

[john 05141]

How do you paint those? There is only a small hole where the bulbs go thru?

Jan

[RIUM+]

It's certainly possible the chrome flaked off with age. My lenses aren't discoloured so I know it hasn't spent most of its life sitting in the sun, but who knows.

I painted them with a very thin brush with a handle diameter of around 1/8". I was surprised how much I could reach with just a very thin brush (around 80%). To get the rest, I used the tip of the brush from a nail polish bottle that I'd cut off & held at an angle with pliers. Fiddly and took me around 2 hours to paint all the reflector walls.

[dmc6960]

Fiddly and took me around 2 hours to paint all the reflector walls.

Just for clarification...

Did you paint the sidewalls inside the lens, the parabolic wall, or both?

[RIUM+]

Just for clarification...

Did you paint the sidewalls inside the lens, the parabolic wall, or both?

Both. I painted everywhere inside the assembly except the coloured translucent lenses.

[NightFlyer]

Interesting situation here - I'll definitely have to check 1798's taillight reflectors.

Hopefully DeLorean03 has received the 5W Cree Q5 + 12 3-chip 5050 SMD LEDs that I ordered for 1798, and can do a comparison of those vs stock incandescent and his 18 3-chip 5050 SMD LEDs in the near future and post that for us here.

It would be most excellent if someone here with the 45 3-chip 5050 SMD Superbright LEDs would send a set of their bulbs to DeLorean03 for a comparison test as well, as then we'd pretty much have the full spectrum of available options covered.

[Farrar]

Incandescents in black lens surrounds on the left, LEDs in my painted-white lens surrounds on the right.

How did you detach the lens surrounds? I haven't figured out how they're attached and don't want to break them...

[dmc6960]

How did you detach the lens surrounds? I haven't figured out how they're attached and don't want to break them...

You dont, the plastic is bonded together. He reached inside through the bulb opening. I would not recommend painting the parabolic portion if it is currently reflective.

[Shep]

Okay, so I went with DeLorean03's listing of the bulbs he used (Post #71 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7302-LED-Tailight-kit&p=107056&viewfull=1#post107056)). I bought it from iPremierTek, although instead of buying it from eBay and dealing with the hassle of contacting them to combine shipping etc. etc., I went straight to their website, HIDLightsUSA.com (http://hidlightsusa.com/) and bought it from there. They were out of the Red and White bulbs, but instead of putting them on backorder, they changed them to the 24 SMD versions and left a post-it note on the white bulbs that read "Upgrade". I may have bought from them a whim, but the free upgrade was a huge, huge bonus, especially being my first purchase. They've definitely gained me as a customer! :thumbup:

Here's the god's honest truth: if you're looking for LED replacements for stock bulbs that are identical in brightness and light dispersion, here's the bulbs you want:
GP Thunder 1156SMD-24A (Amber, 1x)
GP Thunder 1156SMD-24R (Red, 3x)
GP Thunder 1156SMD-24W (White, 1x)

They are actually slightly brighter than stock when brand new, however it's marginal. The white bulbs are a pure white, not a yellowish-white like the stock ones, and while the amber ones I got are a slightly different color, I got the 18A version instead of the 24A version. I'll be switching from the former to the latter soon for consistency and because the 18A is dimmer than stock.

So I waited until about 7:30 PM with overcast skies, put some weight on the brake pedal, pulled the E-brake up, put the shifter in Reverse, turned the hazards and parking lights on, then turned the key to "on" and snapped this picture of every single light on simultaneously:

http://vin559.com/images/work_done/led_conversion/led_vs_incandescents.jpg

Frankly I don't know what all the hubub is about not being able to photograph LED's. The pictures I took with my point-and-shoot came out just fine. You just have to set the exposure properly. I could take them with my smartphone with the same results if I had the settings right.


Who in their right mind would make lighting with black reflectors??

I wonder was the "chrome" poorly applied and just peeled off?Um, no, mine are like that too. Completely black with minor gloss, just like the outside of the housings. There's no difference inside or out; it's just bare unpainted plastic. Frankly I thought it was just one of those 1981 quirks and had no idea it was a production change. I've still got the original sticker on the passenger taillight, so I always thought it was a NOS unit and not a production unit, but evidently they're original if both have bare insides. One of those triple-digit-VIN things I'd imagine.

[NightFlyer]

Um, no, mine are like that too. Completely black with minor gloss, just like the outside of the housings. There's no difference inside or out; it's just bare unpainted plastic. Frankly I thought it was just one of those 1981 quirks and had no idea it was a production change. I've still got the original sticker on the passenger taillight, so I always thought it was a NOS unit and not a production unit, but evidently they're original if both have bare insides. One of those triple-digit-VIN things I'd imagine.

Nice pics!

So, do you plan on painting the reflectors or are you happy with the current light output/dispersion?

[Shep]

Nice pics!

So, do you plan on painting the reflectors or are you happy with the current light output/dispersion?For now, I'm leaving them as is. They're fairly sufficient even for daytime. If anything, I'd buy new housings for a more complete reflector, but I'm not sure I need to. Really my only complaint is that the inner column of the amber portion is the only one that lights up; the outer column does not illuminate whatsoever. Is this different in the later taillights? If it is, that would give me more incentive to make the switch. I'd like it to light up the whole triangle instead of just the thin/tall rectangle, but currently it does not.

[Bitsyncmaster]

For now, I'm leaving them as is. They're fairly sufficient even for daytime. If anything, I'd buy new housings for a more complete reflector, but I'm not sure I need to. Really my only complaint is that the inner column of the amber portion is the only one that lights up; the outer column does not illuminate whatsoever. Is this different in the later taillights? If it is, that would give me more incentive to make the switch. I'd like it to light up the whole triangle instead of just the thin/tall rectangle, but currently it does not.

None of the outer amber lights on any stock D. I was thinking about modifying mine to light but so much work for what to gain.

[Shep]

None of the outer amber lights on any stock D. I was thinking about modifying mine to light but so much work for what to gain.I'll have to double-check the design of the housings, but as much as this is a Steve Rice kind of approach, a well-placed hole or two in the housing and some aluminum foil I believe would get you a good mock-up. Then it should just be a matter of getting the right shape and making it out of a more permanent material. I might actually give this a try if I ever get my hands on some spare housings.

Naturally, much easier said than done :)

And to get things back on topic (sorry for the sidetracking guys), I will most definitely be upgrading to the 24A version of the amber bulbs. I forgot to mention this before, but on vs. off was barely any difference when standing about 3-4 feet back. It doesn't exactly catch your eye like it should, whereas the stock ones are fine.

That being said, I do have the black housings, so I'm sure that factors into it quite a bit. I may actually try to see if I can find a similar bulb that has even more SMD LED's on it to see if I can get brighter than stock. I can't imagine DeLorean03 would be recommending these if he had similar results, so my thinking is that the side-facing LED's are mostly lost with the black reflectors, and the 24A's have more front-facing LED's than the 18A's do, so they're naturally brighter.

[DeLorean03]

The 24 SMD LEDs have 6 on the end - the 18s have 3.

I'm going to be putting up some new videos soon. Nightflyer sent me all sorts of LEDs to try, and I'll be doing a couple comparison videos of 18 SMD LEDs vs CREE/SMD LEDs soon. Keep an eye out later this week!

[NightFlyer]

The 24 SMD LEDs have 6 on the end - the 18s have 3.

I'm going to be putting up some new videos soon. Nightflyer sent me all sorts of LEDs to try, and I'll be doing a couple comparison videos of 18 SMD LEDs vs CREE/SMD LEDs soon. Keep an eye out later this week!

COOL - Hopefully I bought some half-way decent stuff... :cool:

[Shep]

Just thought I'd share this with everyone. Jeff (jmpdmc) linked me to a mod he did for the rear running lights [link (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?451-LEDs-for-the-car&p=3895#post3895)]. In the picture I posted above, you can see that mine are quite dim, even though they have the same exact LED's as the brake lights, and the stock incandescents suffer from the same problem. In his mod, he put reflective vinyl on the sides of the housing for the light, helping to evenly distribute the light. The only hitch is that the GP Thunder bulbs I linked to have only directly-forward-facing and directly-side-facing LED's, with nothing angled between the two, so the reflectors would mostly bounce light from the side LED's off of the walls and back onto the bulb.

That's when the light bulb ( :tongue: ) went off in my head: every other light on the taillight is surrounded in a dome. The running lights have absolutely nothing directing the light forwards. Instead of putting reflectors on the sides, why not go one step further and create a dome? Considering the shape of the housing, even a primitive pyramid-like shape should do wonders.

[Steven]

The 24 SMD LEDs have 6 on the end - the 18s have 3.

I'm going to be putting up some new videos soon. Nightflyer sent me all sorts of LEDs to try, and I'll be doing a couple comparison videos of 18 SMD LEDs vs CREE/SMD LEDs soon. Keep an eye out later this week!

Looking forward to the vids! I'm about to do a big LED upgrade so I can't wait to see the results. :)

[DeLorean03]

Just letting everyone know I haven't gotten to this yet. I'm sorry - I did want to have the videos/photos up before this weekend was over. Life got a lil' hectic. I will have them up after this work week (Sun to Tues - midnight to noon shifts).

Thank you for your patience everyone!

[jawn101]

Just letting everyone know I haven't gotten to this yet. I'm sorry - I did want to have the videos/photos up before this weekend was over. Life got a lil' hectic. I will have them up after this work week (Sun to Tues - midnight to noon shifts).

Thank you for your patience everyone!

I'm really looking forward to your results and determinations. As I've said, I really didn't like the LEDs I bought, but I haven't given up on the idea. It's great to have people like you, Dennis and Ozzie who can be trusted helping the rest of us make the right decisions. Much appreciated.

I also just noticed that my door, dome, trunk and boot bulbs are the older non-SMD style. Interesting how many more options there are now, just a few short years later.

[Shep]

boot bulbsI'm not familiar with this term. Could you elaborate on this one? My best guess is something to do with the footwell or the shifter boot, but neither location had any bulbs from the factory. :hmm:

[Dangermouse]

By a process if elimination I take it he means the light in the engine compartment, the "boot" area in a British car.

[Shep]

By a process if elimination I take it he means the light in the engine compartment, the "boot" area in a British car.Interesting, I wasn't aware of that name. Learned a new term today! :)

[Farrar]

FWIW, I bought some Eagle Eye Tower bulbs from AutoLumination (http://autolumination.com/1156_1157.htm). I had originally planned to use them as my reverse lights, but that was before I pulled the rear lens clusters out and saw that I still had two incandescent bulbs in the parking light circuit.

(Those center bulbs are not meant to be 1156s, by the way -- and I wonder how many melted headlight switches have been caused by people putting in 1156s instead of the lower-wattage stock bulb. The manual says that those parking lights are 5-watt bulbs, and 1156s are 21-watt bulbs. But never mind, moving on...)

Just for fun I stuck the Eagle Eye Towers in those parking light sockets, even though they're meant to replace 1156s and therefore taller than the stock bulbs. They're definitely brighter, even though they're LEDs. Also, if I had planned on using them behind red lenses I would have bought red modules, but still they look pretty good when compared to the original 5-watt parking light bulbs, in my opinion.

Only allowed to post one video per post, so I'll split this. Here's part one.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PuUlQxSMu3A

[Farrar]

Part two.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeRCEPbAnyI

[DeLorean03]

I'm really looking forward to your results and determinations. As I've said, I really didn't like the LEDs I bought, but I haven't given up on the idea. It's great to have people like you, Dennis and Ozzie who can be trusted helping the rest of us make the right decisions. Much appreciated.

I also just noticed that my door, dome, trunk and boot bulbs are the older non-SMD style. Interesting how many more options there are now, just a few short years later.

I appreciate your gratitude, Jon - I really do. I would definitely change out all the old LEDs with SMDs in the areas you mentioned. Like my engine light, it is a 9-SMD LED bulb. Dude, it is not "the alternator/coolant bottle light" anymore, let me tell you ;).

[Shep]

On a related note, just an FYI for everyone: I was able to fit the 6 SMD festoon units in the dome lights, which fit with no modifications, and also in the hood light. I have another one ordered for the engine light, but even though it's smaller than the stock size and is not a direct plug-n-play fit, careful bending of the longer contact will shorten the space up enough to provide a secure fitting. I've actually found that even with the hood open, it's not overly bright and does plenty of lighting. Considering the positioning of the hood light, pointing directly at the driver rather than at the trunk area, I'm quite satisfied with this option for the hood.

I will report back on how well it lights up the engine bay when it arrives, but considering the 9 SMD fits there, I see no reason to downgrade yourself in the engine bay. The hood on the other hand may be a bit too bright with the 9 SMD option, but even the 6 SMD is about twice as bright as stock, if not more. Do yourself a favor: when you buy the 6 SMD LED's for the dome light and the 9 SMD LED's for the engine bay, try both in the hood and see which one you like better, using a small piece of wadded-up aluminum foil for the smaller one to avoid bending the contact. Then order accordingly.


my engine light, it is a 9-SMD LED bulb. Dude, it is not "the alternator/coolant bottle light" anymore, let me tell you ;)I didn't see a link to this LED in the thread. Could you provide one please? I'm interested in getting this one :wiggle:

I saw this one (http://www.hidlightsusa.com/product.asp?id=GP-1142-8SMD-W), but that's one less SMD, and the more the merrier! :)

[DMC5180]

Nice Find Shep,

That 1142 8-SMD could be a solution to an issue I have with my current 1142 6 SMD festoons. My current units have large Capacitors on the back side which do not play well with my (DM-eng) Digital Dome Light Module. I've had to revert back to my early Generation 6 (LED) units. The older units are not nearly the brightness of these NEW SMD's . Anyhow I don't see any typical Capacitors on the 8-SMD Festoon, unless it's those tiny brown chips.

[DMC5180]

By a process if elimination I take it he means the light in the engine compartment, the "boot" area in a British car.

Always thought "Boot" meant Trunk ( rear storage compartment) Or does it mean "the Boot is under the Bonnet"

[Shep]

Nice Find Shep,

That 1142 8-SMD could be a solution to an issue I have with my current 1142 6 SMD festoons. My current units have large Capacitors on the back side which do not play well with my (DM-eng) Digital Dome Light Module. I've had to revert back to my early Generation 6 (LED) units. The older units are not nearly the brightness of these NEW SMD's . Anyhow I don't see any typical Capacitors on the 8-SMD Festoon, unless it's those tiny brown chips.Looks to me like they're solder points, but just to be safe I would email the vendor and ask. There's little strips that go across every other terminal, and I'm not quite sure what those are, but I'm not familiar with a capacitor of that shape.


Always thought "Boot" meant Trunk ( rear storage compartment) Or does it mean "the Boot is under the Bonnet"As these are rear-engined cars, "rear storage compartment" may refer to the engine bay. He specified both trunk and boot, so my guess now is that one's the engine bay and the other's the front storage compartment, although I'm not sure which is which :)

[Bitsyncmaster]

Those components on the 8 SMD LEDs are probably resistors. I don't see any switching regulator so they should work with my dome unit.

[Dangermouse]

Yes, in UK parlance, the trunk is the boot - where you store stuff - and is generally at the rear of the car.

As the poster had already listed the "trunk" as a location, by which I presumed he meant the front of the car, I just assumed he meant the outstanding bulb was the one at the rear.

Of course he may have meant something else.

(I feel like I'm analyzing poetry in high school again - what did the author mean by "boot") :)

[Shep]

(I feel like I'm analyzing poetry in high school again - what did the author mean by "boot") :)Jon's probably sitting back having a good laugh at all of this. They were made in England, you'd think we'd all know the proper English terms. I can't stop laughing at myself for not knowing and sparking this mini-discussion :hihi2:

The worst part: if I had actually Googled "boot bulb", the fourth result in the search (https://www.google.com/search?q=boot+bulb) says "Boot (Trunk) Light Bulb". I must've been a little :screwy: yesterday to not have done that

[DMC5180]

Those components on the 8 SMD LEDs are probably resistors. I don't see any switching regulator so they should work with my dome unit.

:yesss:

[DeLorean03]

I didn't see a link to this LED in the thread. Could you provide one please? I'm interested in getting this one :wiggle:




I am at work with limited resources (no access to eBay). It was on eBay. My bulb is a 38mm. I know it is mentioned that the engine comp light is 44mm-45mm, but I made a 38mm fit and work with zero issues. SMD LEDs on the buls are in a 3x3 pattern, and it works very well!

[DeLorean03]

All right - the video you've been waiting for:


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eaM1OX95228&feature=youtu.be

[Farrar]

Looks like CREE units are the way to go for maximum brightness. I haven't found any CREE BA9s for the side markers, though, unless you want white. Maybe they're forthcoming.

Thanks for the video! A lot more impressive than mine. :\

[NightFlyer]

All right - the video you've been waiting for:

Great review and video - definitely better than I ever could have done (plus I only would have had the stock/OEM incandescents to compare to).

Thanks for doing that DeLorean03 - I'm sure it will help a lot of owners considering an LED taillight upgrade make an informed decision.

BTW - My bulbs should be 5W Cree Q5 plus 12 5050 3-chip SMD's on the sides. For those interested, here's the rundown on the bulbs I purchased (prices stated included shipping):

Reverse Light: 2 x GP Thunder 1156 BA15S 5Watt CREE Q5 12 5050 3-chip SMD LED White $19.79
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-2pcs-1156-1093-BA15S-1159-SMD-5Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-White-/161041400266?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257ed0c1ca&vxp=mtr

Turn Signal Light: 2 x GP Thunder 1156 BA15S 5Watt CREE Q5 12 5050 3-chip SMD LED Amber $17.99
http://www.ebay.com/itm/GP-Thunder-Pair-1156-BA15S-12-SMD-Plus-5-Watt-CREE-Q5-LED-Light-Bulbs-Amber-/161041643400?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item257ed47788&vxp=mtr

Tail/Brake Light: 6 x Genssi AGT 1156 BA15S 5Watt CREE Q5 12 5050 3-chip SMD LED Red $67.96
http://www.amazon.com/Genssi-Light-Brake-Replacement-bulbs/dp/B00BBL67DQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371872602&sr=8-1&keywords=1156+cree+red

Total on the complete taillight kit (including shipping) = $105.74

The eBay seller routinely has sales and I was lucky enough to have purchased from him when he had both the bulbs I wanted from him on sale. I just noticed that his current prices on the bulbs are bit higher than what I paid.

If anyone with a Superbrights 45 SMD setup is willing to have their bulbs compared to my mine and video reviewed by DeLorean03, please speak up before the end of the weekend and I'll OK DeLorean03 hanging on to my set until he's able to do this.

[dvonk]

nice comparison video! thanks to DeLorean03 and NightFlyer for their collaborative effort in conducting the experiment. :thumbup:

[DeLorean03]

Thank you, everyone, for your kind compliments and words. Make no mistake about it, his LEDs are way bright. You could land planes with the ones he sent me.

And yes, his are CREEs with 12 LEDs surrounding the middle CREE LED. I know in the video I said 10 - that's what I get for trying to count on the fly :thankyou:.

[NightFlyer]

From what I can tell from the video, it appears that DeLorean03's turn signal and back-up LED's fill the lens better than the CREEs that I purchased.

Of course, if you wanted ultimate lens fill plus brightness, you could get the 25W all CREE bulbs, but then you'd lose most if not all of the reduced current advantage, which is one of the primary ideas behind running LEDs in the first place, although, you'd still have the lower heat advantage vs incandescents.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2X-1156-25W-CREE-LED-Brilliant-Red-Brake-Stop-Light-Bulbs-1073-1093-1129-/200924344469?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec8063095&vxp=mtr

http://i.ebayimg.com/t/2X-1156-25W-CREE-LED-Brilliant-Red-Brake-Stop-Light-Bulbs-1073-1093-1129-/00/s/ODAwWDgwMA==/z/Jl8AAOxyY3ZRkVOJ/$T2eC16ZHJGEFFmlf4!yJBRkVOJS3Kg~~60_3.JPG

At roughly $20/bulb though, a complete set for the taillights would run you double what I spent for my bulbs. And it's quite possible that the 25W CREEs would be too bright.

Would be nice if someone would pony up their Superbright 45-SMD LED's for comparison testing. However, the Superbright kit is even more expensive than a complete set of the 25W CREEs.

So, what bulbs represent the best overall value for your dollar, as that's really the heart of what this thread turned into?

Well, here are the combinations that have been explored, and their respective total costs:

DeLorean03 - GP Thunder 18 5050 3-chip SMDs - Complete Taillight Kit (with shipping) $79.90
NightFlyer - GP Thunder / Genssi AGT 5W CREE Q5 + 12 5050 3-chip SMDs - Complete Taillight Kit (with shipping) $105.74
Dennis - Superbright 45 5050 3-chip SMDs - Complete Taillight Kit (with shipping) $253.10
25W 5 CREE Q5 - Complete Taillight Kit (with shipping) $196.05

You decide!

[DeLorean03]

Wow, Nightflyer, you sure have done your homework on this topic :D.

I love the point that you brought out regarding current vs brightness/fullness of the lens. That is some great stuff there.

And do remember, video can only give you so much of an idea of what you're getting. The LEDs look brighter in person than on my camera - just want to remind people of this.

[Farrar]

I was looking yesterday at some of those CREE 1156 units. They have some that are 50 Watts. :eek:

[Bitsyncmaster]

LEDs get less efficient running higher power. What I see is twice the current makes a very small increase in brightness. In that respect, it would make more sense that the higher count LEDs will provide more light at less current. My thought is 5 watts would be the most you should accept. I think my old 18 LED bulbs use 180 ma. which is 2.3 watts. Granted these newer LEDs are probably more efficient the my old ones.

[Ozzie]

Tip guys: As you get into these higher lumen bulbs, they will by default, be dissipating more heat. If an LED bulb's metallic parts (the thermal heat sink) are warm, depending on where they are used, this is an indication of a limited lifespan of the LED bulb .


Background:
In lab conditions, an LED can maintain useful life for a very, very long time. The guys at Cree at a technical seminar said they have had an LED continuously on, and bright, for over 6 years now, "in ideal lab conditions". With that said the converse is true, and it is especially noteworthy to know that what will degrade or kill an LED is the inability, or limited ability, to efficiently remove it's heat output.

LEDs produce two things when you electrically stimulate them, photons (light), and heat. You wouldn't think of a "hot LED" by touching them, but because an LED die is very small (1/8 to 1/4 the size of your pinky fingernail, which you can't really touch, the way they are made), it doesn't have a lot of surface area to transfer the heat out very fast (a thermal path bottleneck, if you will).

Therefore one of the most important sub components of an LED package (or bulb, as it relates to this discussion), is the heat transfer solution used. Typically an LED bulb ultimately relies on a convective thermal path, which just means that the more temperature stable and open to airflow the bulb is exposed to, the longer the life you can expect out of it. So yes, you can get buy an LED product, and think "Oh, it's an LED, this will last a long time", but if it uses any or all combinations of a) cheap LEDs, b) bad thermal path, c) bad drivers (the internal mini electrical components to light the die), or d) it is used in constrained environment (e.g., high heat, no airflow), then the life expectancy of the LEDs will be compromised.

I have personally observed this with an LED (non SMDs, btw) shop light where half of the LED lights went bad in a 6 months (cheap LEDs), and with an inexpensive LED festoon bulb in the engine bay, which failed due to the bay's heat, in a year of service). Note that the tail light assemblies of our car (most cars), are enclosed cavities, exposed to potentially warm/hot outdoor conditions. So factor how warm they get, to how bright they are, to cost, in your selection and expenditure of LED bulbs, in order to get make a good purchasing decision.


PS
LED and cold weather? LED's love the cold, they actually work better in colder environments. They are more and more showing up in bulb applications for large walk in type freezers.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Good write up Ozzie.

Also to note is the LED driving circuit produces some heat. That is one reason they use switching type regulators on these high power LEDs. The switching regulators run about 90% efficiency. So if you have one high power 10 watt LED the regulator will produce 1 watt of heat.

One other thing to consider is brake lights and signal lights are less prone to overheating since they are not on for a very long time.

[NightFlyer]

Great stuff here guys - I love it!

Based on my observations / research of currently available product, approximately 6 5050 3-chip SMD's = 1 watt.

So, here's the respective power consumption of the combinations that have been explored:

DeLorean03 - GP Thunder 18 5050 3-chip SMDs - Complete Taillight Kit = 30 Watts (3 Watts per bulb)
NightFlyer - GP Thunder / Genssi AGT 5W CREE Q5 + 12 5050 3-chip SMDs - Complete Taillight Kit = 70 Watts (7 Watts per bulb)
Dennis - Superbright 45 5050 3-chip SMDs - Complete Taillight Kit = 75 Watts (7.5 Watts per bulb)
25W 5 CREE Q5 - Complete Taillight Kit = 250 Watts (25 Watts per bulb)

Stock/OEM draw of complete taillight kit w/incandescents = 178 Watts

[NightFlyer]

Farrar recently introduced us to this site over on Today:

http://autolumination.com/

Infinitely more choices available - wow! I wouldn't even know where to begin.

[NightFlyer]

Given that my bulbs are over double the wattage of DeLorean03's bulbs, 7 watts each vs 3 watts each respectively, I don't think that my bulbs are emitting anywhere near more than double the light output of his bulbs. As one of the primary reasons for running LED's over incandescents is the reduced current draw, I think that this is most significant. Also, the lens fill with DeLorean03's bulbs appears slightly greater than with my CREEs (at least to me anyway) - a benefit of a few additional side-firing SMDs. Given that DeLorean03's bulbs are just as bright or brighter than stock/OEM incandescents, the added brightness of my CREEs is relatively insignificant - especially when considering the more than double power draw for the additional brightness.

As such, I don't see how the Superbright 45 SMD bulbs, at 7.5 watts each, would justify their costs - unless significantly brighter than stock/OEM (with slightly better lens fill than my CREEs) is of the primary importance to you and worth double the price to you over the CREEs.

If only they made the CREEs with 6 additional side-firing SMDs (one extra in each row), the lens fill would be fantastic and you'd have the additional brightness - however still keep in mind that you'd then be at 8 watts per bulb, or 80 watts for the entire taillight kit.

Thus, I've personally come to the conclusion that DeLorean03's LEDs represent the best bang-for-the-buck value of the options explored by our community.

Again, big thanks to DeLorean03 for conducting the comparison test :thumbup:

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm more concerned with saving power than getting lighting that is brighter than needed. One exception was my third brake light which has 108 LEDs and I think the power was close to 7 watts. But my door and side marker lights are all 30 ma each (one string of 4 LEDs). That works out to 0.4 watts each.

[DeLorean03]

Given that my bulbs are over double the wattage of DeLorean03's bulbs
Thus, I've personally come to the conclusion that DeLorean03's LEDs represent the best bang-for-the-buck value of the options explored by our community.

Again, big thanks to DeLorean03 for conducting the comparison test :thumbup:

I appreciate your kind words. As stated many times before now, I just want everyone to have choices, and I want people to be aware that just because something is inexpensive does not mean it is a bad product.

That statement is not meant to slander or backhand anyone here in this thread at all. It is simply me trying to say "Here is what I use - it works - I wouldn't put it on my car if I thought it was an inferior product."

But to each their own - try whatever you want or go with what you feel comfortable with. I can take photos and videos all day and night, but the driver of the car has to be 100% comfortable with what they ultimately put on their vehicle.

Thank you, Nightflyer, for sending the bulbs my way. Sorry it took me a bit longer than I expected, life got a lil crazy there for a couple days. Glad I could help anyone here make a better decision for what they want for their DeLorean.


Farrar recently introduced us to this site over on Today:

http://autolumination.com/

Infinitely more choices available - wow! I wouldn't even know where to begin.

Holy crap :shocked: ...

[NightFlyer]

I appreciate your kind words. As stated many times before now, I just want everyone to have choices, and I want people to be aware that just because something is inexpensive does not mean it is a bad product.

That statement is not meant to slander or backhand anyone here in this thread at all. It is simply me trying to say "Here is what I use - it works - I wouldn't put it on my car if I thought it was an inferior product."

But to each their own - try whatever you want or go with what you feel comfortable with. I can take photos and videos all day and night, but the driver of the car has to be 100% comfortable with what they ultimately put on their vehicle.

Funny how those who were bagging on your bulbs never stopped to consider the difference in power consumption, despite such being the primary reason for doing the conversion in the first place. As Farrar pointed out over on the discussion taking place on Today, there definitely comes a point of diminishing returns with LEDs. And one thing that these comparison tests definitely confirmed is your original assertion that "Superbright LEDs are way overpriced" - they definitely are IMHO.


Thank you, Nightflyer, for sending the bulbs my way. Sorry it took me a bit longer than I expected, life got a lil crazy there for a couple days. Glad I could help anyone here make a better decision for what they want for their DeLorean.

It was definitely worth it! And don't sweat the delay - I obviously didn't :cool1:

Credit goes to you for pulling the taillight, doing the swap, and making/posting the video. Oh, and be sure to tell Jessica thanks as well! BTW - I saw the video of stuffing her into the luggage compartment - she seems pretty awesome :bigclap:

Are you guys going to do Woodward this year - after all, Ohio's not all that far from Michigan :biggrin:

[Farrar]

A word of caution: If you're doing work around your LED units, remove them so that they don't get jostled badly. I had two problems with some of the smaller LED units recently (ba7 and ba9) where I had to pull the sockets out and work around some wiring, and when I put the units back they weren't working and the circuit suffered some weird electrical glitches. In both cases, the LED units had been jostled to where the circuit board had become un-glued and was grounding itself out against the metal container, causing a weird feedback issue. I had to pull the units to get everything to work correctly, and now I'm down one side marker and one HVAC panel bulb. :( These things may be more fragile than they look... Anyway, that's my experience and I thought I'd share.

[Shep]

For what it's worth, the 24 SMD version of the LED's DeLorean03 linked to (which I posted about here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7302-LED-Tailight-kit&p=110271&viewfull=1#post110271)) are definitely way brighter than the 18 SMD version. The bulb is thicker with more SMD's, but each one is the same size as is on the 18 SMD version. The 44's get really tiny, and isn't worth the extra money in my opinion, being actually slightly dimmer than the 24's. I'd be interested in seeing how the 24's compare to the CREE bulbs, rather than the 18's.

And a huge, HUGE word of warning: if you're looking into 1157 bulbs for the front turn signals, do NOT get these (http://www.hidlightsusa.com/product.asp?id=1157-44SMD-A-N). I figured since GP Thunder makes satisfactory (to me, anyways) 1156 bulbs, they'd make a good 1157 bulb as well. Holy hell was I wrong on that one. When the parking lights are on, it's slightly dimmer than stock. Ditto for the hazards. But when both are on, you can barely see that they're blinking at all. It's so miniscule, it's pretty much begging a cop to pull you over for not signaling a turn. I had figured that half the LED's would light up on one circuit and the other half on the other circuit. Instead, every single LED lights up on one circuit, and becomes marginally brighter on the second circuit (Dave M was spot-on when he said "What I see is twice the current makes a very small increase in brightness"). Even worse, somehow they introduced feedback into the parking light circuit when the hazards are on, so the rear parking lights have a fast blink with each long blink of the hazards. I'm now pursuing other options for the front turn signals, but I'm leaving the backs alone. 24's are good enough for me :)

[NightFlyer]

For what it's worth, the 24 SMD version of the LED's DeLorean03 linked to (which I posted about here (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?7302-LED-Tailight-kit&p=110271&viewfull=1#post110271)) are definitely way brighter than the 18 SMD version. The bulb is thicker with more SMD's, but each one is the same size as is on the 18 SMD version. The 44's get really tiny, and isn't worth the extra money in my opinion, being actually slightly dimmer than the 24's. I'd be interested in seeing how the 24's compare to the CREE bulbs, rather than the 18's.

Do you have a set of the 24's that you could send for comparison testing? I think that we've leaned on DeLorean03 enough, so, if you wanted to send your 24's to me, I'll compare them against the CREEs that I bought (I'll figure out how to do and post video - can't be that much different than pics and you guys can always instruct me if I run into trouble). Anyway, I'm willing to do it if your willing to provide me with some samples to compare. Just shoot me a PM and we can work out the details.

Regarding your 1157 problem - are you running a new flasher relay that's LED compatible, and if so, which one?

[DeLorean03]

And a huge, HUGE word of warning: if you're looking into 1157 bulbs for the front turn signals, do NOT get these (http://www.hidlightsusa.com/product.asp?id=1157-44SMD-A-N). I figured since GP Thunder makes satisfactory (to me, anyways) 1156 bulbs, they'd make a good 1157 bulb as well. Holy hell was I wrong on that one. When the parking lights are on, it's slightly dimmer than stock. Ditto for the hazards. But when both are on, you can barely see that they're blinking at all. It's so miniscule, it's pretty much begging a cop to pull you over for not signaling a turn. I had figured that half the LED's would light up on one circuit and the other half on the other circuit. Instead, every single LED lights up on one circuit, and becomes marginally brighter on the second circuit (Dave M was spot-on when he said "What I see is twice the current makes a very small increase in brightness"). Even worse, somehow they introduced feedback into the parking light circuit when the hazards are on, so the rear parking lights have a fast blink with each long blink of the hazards.

I was wondering if I was the only one the feedback thing was happening to. When I tried installing SMD LEDs into the front markers, one would install with no issues, but when installing the second one, my side markers would start flashing and instead of only one turn signal being activated, my car would act like I engaged my hazzards. Drove me bat-bonkers. For a long time now, I ran these kind of LEDs:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-x-1157-AMBER-YELLOW-12-LED-BULBS-Rear-Tail-Stop-Parking-Lights-Turn-Signal-/290943701481?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item43bd9891e9&vxp=mtr

And they were ok. they were not super bright, but they were enough to make me say "Ok, they reduce power and are bright enough at night - I'll work with it for now..."

So, I just yesterday found a great substitute - don't be too quick to rip off my shoes and kiss my feet (major bonus points if you know what Tom Hanks movie that comes from):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370832453349?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

These guys light up your front markers like you cannot believe. I know - traditional looking LEDs rather than the fancy-dancy SMDs we have been playing with lately. But man, these are worth the money. Trust me.

Requests for video - just let me know. They are already installed in my car, and they sure as heck are not coming out in the foreseeable future.

[Shep]

Do you have a set of the 24's that you could send for comparison testing? I think that we've leaned on DeLorean03 enough, so, if you wanted to send your 24's to me, I'll compare them against the CREEs that I bought (I'll figure out how to do and post video - can't be that much different than pics and you guys can always instruct me if I run into trouble). Anyway, I'm willing to do it if your willing to provide me with some samples to compare. Just shoot me a PM and we can work out the details.I don't have a spare set, but I'll contact the seller to see if they have them in stock. Twice when I ordered from them, they "upgraded" my order since they were out of stock, once to the 24's, and once to the 44's, but this time for obvious reasons we'll need that exact model. I'll keep you posted and send you a PM when I hear back :thumbup:


Regarding your 1157 problem - are you running a new flasher relay that's LED compatible, and if so, which one?Yes, I'm running this one (http://www.autozone.com/autozone/parts/Novita-Turn-Signal-Flasher/_/N-5yc1s?itemIdentifier=6416). I had to swap some of the wires (fun fact: H4 plugs fit the relay with very minor pin adjustments), but it works and is designed for both LED's and incandescents.


I was wondering if I was the only one the feedback thing was happening to. When I tried installing SMD LEDs into the front markers, one would install with no issues, but when installing the second one, my side markers would start flashing and instead of only one turn signal being activated, my car would act like I engaged my hazzards. Drove me bat-bonkers.
[...]
So, I just yesterday found a great substitute - don't be too quick to rip off my shoes and kiss my feet (major bonus points if you know what Tom Hanks movie that comes from):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/370832453349?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649

These guys light up your front markers like you cannot believe. I know - traditional looking LEDs rather than the fancy-dancy SMDs we have been playing with lately. But man, these are worth the money. Trust me.

Requests for video - just let me know. They are already installed in my car, and they sure as heck are not coming out in the foreseeable future.Question for you: how visible is the blinking on those LED's when the parking lights are already on? That was my biggest issue with the ones I'm currently running. When the parking lights are already on, the blinker is barely visible, even parked in my garage with the door down. Is it a significant difference? I'm hoping to find a bulb that has 50% brightness per circuit, doubling to 100% when both circuits are activated.

[kings1527]

While I was redoing my interior over the spring, I upgraded my car to 100% LEDs. Here's an entry I did on it and I'm very happy with the way the car turned out. LEDs are definitely the way to go, IMO.

http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2013/07/upgrading-to-led-lights-and-dealing.html

[DeLorean03]

And just to think when some of us were doing this 9 years ago, we were labeled "fad followers" and ricing out our cars. Yep, kid you not - that was some people's reactions to the conversion of LEDs. Makes me smile when I think about it.

[Ozzie]

Alex:

:thumbup2: ...on your LED conversion write up.
I will add a link to my site (thanks for the props, btw), to your site as an update and a really good installation reference.

Sorry about the glove box LED, as I wrote on my blog, I got that specific bulb as a recommendation and I was advised that it did work for others - perhaps they have since changed the specs on that bulb. A Google or eBay search today, for ""E10 12V LED" should show some alternatives that you can compare the thread size, to what is required.

[Farrar]

I just got a pair of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5SMD-BA9S-LED-Light-Bulbs-Red-1445-64111-Map-Dome-Reading-License-Plate-Lamps-/300890501455) for my rear side markers. In case anyone's interested, I'll let you know how they do. Let me know.

[NightFlyer]

I just got a pair of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5SMD-BA9S-LED-Light-Bulbs-Red-1445-64111-Map-Dome-Reading-License-Plate-Lamps-/300890501455) for my rear side markers. In case anyone's interested, I'll let you know how they do. Let me know.

I'm interested and will be waiting to see how they turn out :wave2:

[Bitsyncmaster]

I just got a pair of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5SMD-BA9S-LED-Light-Bulbs-Red-1445-64111-Map-Dome-Reading-License-Plate-Lamps-/300890501455) for my rear side markers. In case anyone's interested, I'll let you know how they do. Let me know.

From what I remember installing LEDs in the side markers is you will not get the light past the center. The long part of the side marker is made to be a reflector and not light up from the bulb.

[Farrar]

From what I remember installing LEDs in the side markers is you will not get the light past the center. The long part of the side marker is made to be a reflector and not light up from the bulb.

That's my experience as well, but I do want them to be bright and visible from different angles.

[Tillsy]

I just got a pair of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5SMD-BA9S-LED-Light-Bulbs-Red-1445-64111-Map-Dome-Reading-License-Plate-Lamps-/300890501455) for my rear side markers. In case anyone's interested, I'll let you know how they do. Let me know.

I can confirm those work fantastic as they are what I installed last year:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=14783

[kings1527]

Alex:

:thumbup2: ...on your LED conversion write up.
I will add a link to my site (thanks for the props, btw), to your site as an update and a really good installation reference.

Sorry about the glove box LED, as I wrote on my blog, I got that specific bulb as a recommendation and I was advised that it did work for others - perhaps they have since changed the specs on that bulb. A Google or eBay search today, for ""E10 12V LED" should show some alternatives that you can compare the thread size, to what is required.

Thanks Ozzie! And thanks for the write-up you did, too. That made things so much easier.

No problem on the glove box light. And I didn't mean to make it sound like it not fitting was a problem. It was just one of those things but I wasn't trying to put any blame on anyone. I'll edit my blog so people don't get the wrong idea.

Meanwhile, if anyone finds another E10 through eBay or anywhere else that works, please post it here.

[Tillsy]

Meanwhile, if anyone finds another E10 through eBay or anywhere else that works, please post it here.

Don't worry I encountered the precise same issue as you when I did mine last year - I actually destroyed my led n the
Process of trying to forcefully screw it further in. Ultimately I gave up and reverted to the old bulb.

[kings1527]

Don't worry I encountered the precise same issue as you when I did mine last year - I actually destroyed my led n the
Process of trying to forcefully screw it further in. Ultimately I gave up and reverted to the old bulb.

That's exactly what I was afraid of doing so I stopped. It was weird; it looked and felt like it was threading all the way in, but no go. Glad I'm not the only one! I didn't want to think I couldn't even screw in a lightbulb that day!

[Farrar]

I can confirm those work fantastic as they are what I installed last year:

Good. They put out the same amount of light as the ones I had, but look sturdier. With luck, they won't fail like one of their predecessors did and wreak havoc with the parking lights.

[Chris 16409]

Meanwhile, if anyone finds another E10 through eBay or anywhere else that works, please post it here.

This is the one that I bought. It works fine. It may not be as bright as the incandescent, but at least the glove box can be open without the lens "melting down".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390481198356

[jawn101]

This is the one that I bought. It works fine. It may not be as bright as the incandescent, but at least the glove box can be open without the lens "melting down".

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390481198356

Be warmed that these bulbs appear to be incompatible with Dave M's LED dome light timer, or the one in my car was. With the LED in that socket, I was unable to program the timer box. I went back to an incandescent because I only ever open the glove box to program the dome lights into or out of parade mode, or to get my fire extinguisher. Which is to say not that often.

[Ozzie]

Thanks Ozzie! And thanks for the write-up you did, too. That made things so much easier.

No problem on the glove box light. And I didn't mean to make it sound like it not fitting was a problem. It was just one of those things but I wasn't trying to put any blame on anyone. I'll edit my blog so people don't get the wrong idea.

Meanwhile, if anyone finds another E10 through eBay or anywhere else that works, please post it here.


Don't worry I encountered the precise same issue as you when I did mine last year - I actually destroyed my led n the
Process of trying to forcefully screw it further in. Ultimately I gave up and reverted to the old bulb.


Gents,

I was left puzzled and curious at your comments that the LEDs recommended on my blog did not fit, so I just tried out the same LED bulb (I had an older LED from my initial conversion years ago), and I verified the fit and function. I blogged the details here: The DeLorean's Glove Box Lighting (http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/2013/07/the-deloreans-glove-box-lighting.html)

Perhaps your housings are not properly installed, which can happen easily, due amount of parts it contains. Hope this information helps.

I have attached a quick summary of the assembly of the glove box light housing, for future reference:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20592&d=1374367567

[NightFlyer]

I have attached a quick summary of the assembly of the glove box light housing, for future reference

That's AWESOME Ozzie - I'm sure it will help a lot of people out :thumbup:

[Tillsy]

Perhaps your housings are not properly installed, which can happen easily, due amount of parts it contains. Hope this information helps.

The supplier I got my SMD from would only ship in minimum quantities of two, so I had a spare. To that end I just went out to do some checks per your picture and see if I could get the other one installed.

Before I started I unscrewed the old bulb and this time took notice of how far it threaded - only a couple of turns, it does not screw all the way in. Interesting, I had never taken notice before as each time I reinstalled the old bulb I just screwed until it lit and was firm - whereas the LED I was trying to screw all the way down because it wouldn't light.

Looking inside the socket I can see why - the thread goes all the way to the bottom but the LED/bulb obviously has its negative bulge sticking out from the bottom. Thus it cannot fit all the way into the DeLorean's socket design.

I screwed the LED replacement the same distance - only a couple of turns, a mere halfway down its thread, and it wouldn't go further and was not lit. So, again, it seems perfectly normal that this is as far as it goes.

Before I went any further I got thinking about my thought above - the "negative" bulge at the bottom of the LED/bulb. Errrr, what if a PO had take the socket out previously and put the connectors back on in reverse? Would have made no different to the bulb but my installing a LED replacement on the other hand...

So I reached up underneath, pulled the two connectors out, put them in opposite, and *BAM* the LED starts brightly shining out the glovebox.

Doh! kings1527 you should give yours another shot - screw it in until it stops, even though it seems to only be halfway in, and then reverse the connectors on the socket. Might find yours comes to life too.

[DeLorean03]

Dang, wish I had known you guys were having this trouble. Installed my glovebox LED in last winter, and that was my solution as well.

[kings1527]

Excellent info, thanks everyone. I read all of the responses. Ozzie and Chris: thanks for the breakdown and I'll give it a shot on Tuesday.

Thanks again!

[Ozzie]

The supplier I got my SMD from would only ship in minimum quantities of two, so I had a spare. To that end I just went out to do some checks per your picture and see if I could get the other one installed.

Before I started I unscrewed the old bulb and this time took notice of how far it threaded - only a couple of turns, it does not screw all the way in. Interesting, I had never taken notice before as each time I reinstalled the old bulb I just screwed until it lit and was firm - whereas the LED I was trying to screw all the way down because it wouldn't light.

Looking inside the socket I can see why - the thread goes all the way to the bottom but the LED/bulb obviously has its negative bulge sticking out from the bottom. Thus it cannot fit all the way into the DeLorean's socket design.

I screwed the LED replacement the same distance - only a couple of turns, a mere halfway down its thread, and it wouldn't go further and was not lit. So, again, it seems perfectly normal that this is as far as it goes.

Before I went any further I got thinking about my thought above - the "negative" bulge at the bottom of the LED/bulb. Errrr, what if a PO had take the socket out previously and put the connectors back on in reverse? Would have made no different to the bulb but my installing a LED replacement on the other hand...

So I reached up underneath, pulled the two connectors out, put them in opposite, and *BAM* the LED starts brightly shining out the glovebox.

Doh! kings1527 you should give yours another shot - screw it in until it stops, even though it seems to only be halfway in, and then reverse the connectors on the socket. Might find yours comes to life too.


Cool, glad you got it functioning.

I focused on the fit issue as you both described it, but as you found, even though that LED bulb only goes in about two threads, it does contact properly. And, yeah, I was going to mention it but forgot, the polarity at the terminals doesn't matter for an incandescent, but it very much does - and it's very easy to swap them blind.

[Farrar]

Someone asked for a pic of the white LED strip underneath the shifter surround. I finally remembered.

20625

[NightFlyer]

Someone asked for a pic of the white LED strip underneath the shifter surround. I finally remembered.

20625

So, you went with LED over EL - were the LEDs better?

[Farrar]

So, you went with LED over EL - were the LEDs better?

I can't say -- I never considered EL. Maybe someone else did.

[NightFlyer]

Since all the LED nuts are in one place here... :) I thought I'd mention that I'm working on a few ideas for an LED-illuminated shifter surround for my automatic D. Has anyone else done this, or should I start from scratch?


OK, I'll start from scratch. Thanks for your, er, input.


I have some EL panels to play with at home. Thanks!

My bad - I thought that you were.

[Farrar]

My bad - I thought that you were.

Oh, I see how this was confused.

I've had the LED strip under the shifter for over two years.

In June, I had an idea for an ENTIRELY NEW shifter surround. That idea has been shelved. I posted a picture of my setup as is, which as I say is over two years old. Does that make sense?

[NightFlyer]

Oh, I see how this was confused.

I've had the LED strip under the shifter for over two years.

In June, I had an idea for an ENTIRELY NEW shifter surround. That idea has been shelved. I posted a picture of my setup as is, which as I say is over two years old. Does that make sense?

Gotcha :biggrin:

[DMC5180]

I just got a pair of these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-5SMD-BA9S-LED-Light-Bulbs-Red-1445-64111-Map-Dome-Reading-License-Plate-Lamps-/300890501455) for my rear side markers. In case anyone's interested, I'll let you know how they do. Let me know.

I tried a set of those, but did not care for the look with end SMD facing out. I chose to switch back to the ones I got from superbright. Pricing was much closer for those, unlike the taillight units.

[dtavres]

Okay, so I bought the LED kit from DMC, but there are no instructions, and the boxes AND the bulbs are labeled.

3 bulbs are labeled "R"
1 is labeled "Y"
1 is labeled "3"

I can't find any information on what they mean. Can someone give some guidance here?
39774

[cybercusp]

I believe the "3" is a "W" which stands for White. That will be your backup/reverse light. The yellow is your blinker bulb and the red are your running/brake lights.

[dtavres]

i believe the "3" is a "w" which stands for white. That will be your backup/reverse light. The yellow is your blinker bulb and the red are your running/brake lights.

thank you!! :) (duh!)

[Jonathan]

Apologies in advance for asking what is very likely a repeat question, but I'm on my phone and scanning through threads on it isn't working so hot.

Q: What is the difference between an 1156 LED bulb and an 1157 LED bulb?

I read somewhere that it might mean single versus dual filament, but that doesn't make a lot of sense for LEDs.

I am specifically interested in replacing my four brake light bulbs only at this time. The store I popped into had only one 1156 but many 1157 packages. I don't need them right this minute and also don't need to buy the wrong ones if I don't understand the differences. Thx.

[Patrick C]

Q: What is the difference between an 1156 LED bulb and an 1157 LED bulb?

I read somewhere that it might mean single versus dual filament, but that doesn't make a lot of sense for LEDs.

For example, you want the dual intensity LED for your front turn signals. When your running light are on, you have one brightness. When you use a turn signal, it will flash brighter to differentiate from the running light.

[Jonathan]

For example, you want the dual intensity LED for your front turn signals. When your running light are on, you have one brightness. When you use a turn signal, it will flash brighter to differentiate from the running light.

So for the rear brake light bulbs, I should be getting the 1156s then? I was under the impression these were what I needed but they didn't have enough left in stock.

[Patrick C]

So for the rear brake light bulbs, I should be getting the 1156s then?
Correct. But I have yet to see an LED in the DeLorean taillight that works as well as the Osram bulbs that are available. And believe me, I've experimented with LEDs in the taillights.

[Tillsy]

Q: What is the difference between an 1156 LED bulb and an 1157 LED bulb?

I read somewhere that it might mean single versus dual filament, but that doesn't make a lot of sense for LEDs.

In the LED world it means dual brightness. So for example for my front and side lights I have LEDs that come on dim for park lights, but go to full brightness when flashing as indicators.

[Jonathan]

Correct. But I have yet to see an LED in the DeLorean taillight that works as well as the Osram bulbs that are available. And believe me, I've experimented with LEDs in the taillights.

I had never heard of those Patrick.

These ones?

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/vehicle-and-bicycle-lighting/cars/signal-lamps-for-cars/lamps-with-metal-bases-for-cars/index.jsp

I'm not sure what image will pop up in that link. The main image looks like the 1156/1157 bulbs we've been talking about, but not the smaller image once you clock on their numbering system.

Do you recall which model/bulb number from Osram is right for our taillights (brakes in particular)?


In the LED world it means dual brightness. So for example for my front and side lights I have LEDs that come on dim for park lights, but go to full brightness when flashing as indicators.

The dual filament usage... are our cars already wired to do this? I mean, say for the front turn signal bulb that is the running light and the signal, is it already working in a low and high sort of way for running light/signal light and I just haven't noticed?

So, across each of the taillights, you might want 1156 in the brake lights (2 bulbs), the reversing light (1 bulb), and the middle running light (1 bulb)? And then an 1157 in the signal light (1 bulb)? And if going with LEDs, I don't mind this idea that you pick a bulb with a few less individual elements for the middle running light, so it doesn't appear as bright as the brake bulbs beside it.

Does that about cover it?

[Jonathan]

Thought of something else to ask about LEDs in our taillights...

Knowing that LED bulbs have polarity, is this really still an issue with the way our taillight boards are designed, and specifically when talking about the 1156/1157 receptacle style?

If the bulbs are using the tip on the bottom of the bulb plus one of the two nubs on the side as the other contact point, it wouldn't matter whether they were in 180 degrees off or not, would it?

Just curious as I'm inclined to think that at least the taillights don't care which way you insert the bulbs...

[Patrick C]

I had never heard of those Patrick.

These ones?

http://www.osram.com/osram_com/products/lamps/vehicle-and-bicycle-lighting/cars/signal-lamps-for-cars/lamps-with-metal-bases-for-cars/index.jsp

I'm not sure what image will pop up in that link. The main image looks like the 1156/1157 bulbs we've been talking about, but not the smaller image once you clock on their numbering system.

Do you recall which model/bulb number from Osram is right for our taillights (brakes in particular)?



I don't know, as Rob Grady includes Osram bulbs with his tail lights. I tried using the brightest Luxeon LEDs that other owners were raving about being brighter than their bulbs, and they were dim in comparison to my Osrams,

[Chris4099]

Thought of something else to ask about LEDs in our taillights...

Knowing that LED bulbs have polarity, is this really still an issue with the way our taillight boards are designed, and specifically when talking about the 1156/1157 receptacle style?

If the bulbs are using the tip on the bottom of the bulb plus one of the two nubs on the side as the other contact point, it wouldn't matter whether they were in 180 degrees off or not, would it?

Just curious as I'm inclined to think that at least the taillights don't care which way you insert the bulbs...

Correct, with 1156 bulbs which the taillights use, it doesn't matter how the bulb is oriented as long as it's fully inserted and locked in place. Both of those side pins are the same height, so it will work either way. I recall hearing that D1 made a board where the polarity was reversed. Not a problem with incandescent, but obviously made them useless for LED bulbs unless modified. All other boards have the correct polarity and will accept a 1156 LED just fine.

Now with the front marker lights, those are 1157 and orientation matters. One pin is higher then the other, so the bulb only locks in one orientation. This is so the correct filament (there are two) is connected to the correct contact on the bottom of the socket.

[Jonathan]

Correct, with 1156 bulbs which the taillights use, it doesn't matter how the bulb is oriented as long as it's fully inserted and locked in place. Both of those side pins are the same height, so it will work either way. I recall hearing that D1 made a board where the polarity was reversed. Not a problem with incandescent, but obviously made them useless for LED bulbs unless modified. All other boards have the correct polarity and will accept a 1156 LED just fine.

Now with the front marker lights, those are 1157 and orientation matters. One pin is higher then the other, so the bulb only locks in one orientation. This is so the correct filament (there are two) is connected to the correct contact on the bottom of the socket.

Thanks for the explanation Chris. I totally get how that works now. I don't have an 1157 LED right at the moment to physically look at, but I'll look for those differences as soon as I do. Cheers!

[Josh]

Apologies in advance for asking what is very likely a repeat question, but I'm on my phone and scanning through threads on it isn't working so hot.

Q: What is the difference between an 1156 LED bulb and an 1157 LED bulb?

I read somewhere that it might mean single versus dual filament, but that doesn't make a lot of sense for LEDs.

I am specifically interested in replacing my four brake light bulbs only at this time. The store I popped into had only one 1156 but many 1157 packages. I don't need them right this minute and also don't need to buy the wrong ones if I don't understand the differences. Thx.

you are correct it is dual vs single filament. I would think the leds behave similarly. Park lights: half the leds light up, brake lights: all the leds light up. Most importantly the sockets are different.

[Jonathan]

you are correct it is dual vs single filament. I would think the leds behave similarly. Park lights: half the leds light up, brake lights: all the leds light up. Most importantly the sockets are different.

Just for clarification Josh... what do you mean by park lights? With respect to the taillights, that is. Are you talking about the middle bulb of 5? Does that one get brighter when you hit the brakes? I hadn't thought it did. I could see how that would make sense though. If it was dimmer as a running/or parking light, and then brighter when the two brake lights on either side of it come on. I have a single filament equivalent in there now and don't consider it to be terribly bright, not when only on on it's own.

My car is soon to consist of:

10 1156 LEDs in the taillights, all identical, all 18 SMD, all cold white.
2 1157 LEDs in the front turn signal lights (the ones under the headlights which are also parking/running lights), again, 18 SMD and cold white.
1 LED enabling flasher relay replacement to eliminate the fast flash problem.

That's it.

Good? Or not so much?

[Bitsyncmaster]

You probably won't be happy using white LEDs. A white LED is really a blue LED with a phosphors coating. Using matching colors to the lens gives you much deeper colors.

[Jonathan]

You probably won't be happy using white LEDs. A white LED is really a blue LED with a phosphors coating. Using matching colors to the lens gives you much deeper colors.

How do the other colours get their colours then? I mean, how many colours are there that are the "primary" LED colours, if you will? Are red and amber really red and amber, or is there a coating on top of some other colour for those too?

My decision to do that was a) the price of a 10 pack of the white ones, and b) thinking to myself that the original bulbs were all the same and it is the plastic coloured lense that gives it the red or amber or white colour anyway.

[Lou and "Boo"]

thinking to myself that the original bulbs were all the same and it is the plastic coloured lense that gives it the red or amber or white colour anyway.

That IS true...

[DMCMW Dave]

Incandescent bulbs put out a very broad spectrum light that looks off-white to your eye.

LEDs put out one color depending on what they are made of. A "white" LED has very little red coming out of it, and a red lens will filter out almost all the light and it will look very dim.

[Jonathan]

Incandescent bulbs put out a very broad spectrum light that looks off-white to your eye.

LEDs put out one color depending on what they are made of. A "white" LED has very little red coming out of it, and a red lens will filter out almost all the light and it will look very dim.

So, in essence, whatever colour light the bulb is emitting, that is the only colour of light to get THROUGH a lens of the same colour? Which then means any colour of light of which is NOT the same as the lens colour will get blocked out?

Is there some "slop" on the edges of this colour spectrum? Meaning, how close a match does the lens colour need to be to the bulb colour? I assume there is a range of "reds" just like there are "whites" and the lens + bulb colour wouldn't need to be an exact match?

(The engineer in me is thinking numerically like if the range of all colours was 1-100 for example and reds were the 20s, from a pinkish red at 21 to a deep and dark red at 29, would a "red" brake light lens let all the 20s go through or only one or two? Would it let the next colour down in the 10s or up in the 30s through?)

I have the brake light bulbs in now and they do look a bit dim, or at least not quite as bright as I would have expected. You can still see them and they're probably about as "bright" as the incandescents I removed when I had one type of each from side to side. I checked them while the board was not clipped into the taillight and they sure seemed bright. So the red plastic seems to be filtering out/blocking out some of it regardless of how the spectrum math works.

[content22207_2]

40608

There is very little wavelength variation between various manufacturers' Red LED bulbs, simply because there are only a couple of materials that create red light.

Redish colors, such as pink, are created by covering true red LED's with a luminous coating. As the coating degrades, visible light output becomes increasingly red.

Stick with red LED elements behind red lenses:

40609

Bill Robertson
#5939

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have found the AC decal which has green filters on the lettering passes my green or blue LED light pretty much the same. Someone asked if I could do red LEDs and I tried it an got no light to pass.

You have to look at the wavelength numbers on the LED spec sheets to know what real color your going to get from LEDs. There is quite a bit of difference (like red can be a deep "ruby" red or even a pink glow).

If your lens is blocking any of the light your white light LEDs are producing then your just wasting power to produce those other colors.

[Mattr04]

Has anybody noticed that the LED replacement bulb mechanical size varies greatly from bulb to bulb, even if they are "base compatible"?

I found some LEDs on dx.com that are very cheap that would work in the tail light boards, but they vary in size, LED emitter, etc. The ones I want seem to be 2.2" long instead of 2" (which is the overall length for the original incandescent 1156). Has anybody that's played around with LEDs back there noticed if there's an extra .2"? I don't want to push my luck and get brighter bulbs, but end up getting to close to the lens and melt them. I know they don't consume as much power (these are 6w each vs ~27W normal bulbs), but I imagine they can still get hot. These LEDs are 120 3528 emitters with 400-600 lumens.

Thoughts?

Matt
1466

[DrJeff]

Has anybody noticed that the LED replacement bulb mechanical size varies greatly from bulb to bulb, even if they are "base compatible"? ...

I ran into problems with my LED marker lights (center light on the board) when I upgraded to the new taillight boards. I had original purchased an LED configuration that could splay out (like flower petals) which meant that there were plenty of LED points but it wasn't too deep. However the construction was not the greatest and I switched to an alternative bulb (more the classic 'tower style' LED bulb), but still on the stock boards.

The problem I ran into was when I switched to the new Taillight boards. The bulb holder sits slightly higher on these boards than on the stock boards, and my LED bulbs bumped up against the lens. The bulbs were probably a little too close to start with, so I switched just the marker light bulbs to a shorter, but still tower like, LED bulb.

Jeff

[Mattr04]

I ran into problems with my LED marker lights (center light on the board) when I upgraded to the new taillight boards. I had original purchased an LED configuration that could splay out (like flower petals) which meant that there were plenty of LED points but it wasn't too deep. However the construction was not the greatest and I switched to an alternative bulb (more the classic 'tower style' LED bulb), but still on the stock boards.

The problem I ran into was when I switched to the new Taillight boards. The bulb holder sits slightly higher on these boards than on the stock boards, and my LED bulbs bumped up against the lens. The bulbs were probably a little too close to start with, so I switched just the marker light bulbs to a shorter, but still tower like, LED bulb.

Jeff
I still have the stock boards. Can I get away with an extra .2" long bulb without touching the lens?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

[DrJeff]

I still have the stock boards. Can I get away with an extra .2" long bulb without touching the lens?

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk

I got out the measuring stick and looked at the gap available in the lens. I don't have the dimensions anymore (on a long-gone sticky), but most of the LED bulb vendors do post the bulb dimensions. With the bulb dimensions and the available space, you'll be able to figure out a comfortable gap between the bulb and lens.

Jeff

[DavidProehl]

Have any of you tried plasma LED bulbs? It sounds like plasma LED should be brighter than SMD LEDs, but I'd like to see them in action. They aren't cheap, this model is $65 for a pair of them:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/put-241156r-360/overview/

Probably not worth the price at this point, but for those looking for high end bulbs they may be a good option.

[jawn101]

Have any of you tried plasma LED bulbs? It sounds like plasma LED should be brighter than SMD LEDs, but I'd like to see them in action. They aren't cheap, this model is $65 for a pair of them:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/put-241156r-360/overview/

Probably not worth the price at this point, but for those looking for high end bulbs they may be a good option.

Interesting - I've just recently realized that my LEDs are fine at night but are not sufficient in the daylight. I had a breakdown a few weeks ago when my fuel pump died, and I was stopped in the middle of the road with my 4-way flashers on - a shocking number of people were sitting lined up behind me honking. The bright CA sun was just washing them out completely.

I could definitely go for a refresh of all my external LEDs with something newer than 2011.

[Chris4099]

Interesting - I've just recently realized that my LEDs are fine at night but are not sufficient in the daylight.

Which brand did you use? I went with some superbrightleds.com from at least 6 years ago (need to check my records to confirm) and they were just as bright as standard incandecents. While it's the fact they turn on instantly is what gives you the safety, not brightness, having them too dim to even see would be a factor too! :) I admit to going cheap a few years ago when switching over the turn signals and had complaints during a daytime caravan that they were difficult to see. Every time I buy cheap LEDS for tail lights, they either don't work properly or are too dim. I'll never make that mistake again!

Plasma ones look cool, but are pricey. Too bad they don't list the lumen output so you can compare with other LED and incandescent bulbs.

[DavidProehl]

Here is a plasma LED demo video:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OJ9E7xLSBC8

It looks like he is selling the same bulb, but at half the price? Not sure how he worked that out. He only seems to have 1157s in red, as apparently Cougars don't use 1156s for brake lights.
http://www2.cougarpartscatalog.com/plasma2.html

[jawn101]

Which brand did you use? I went with some superbrightleds.com from at least 6 years ago (need to check my records to confirm) and they were just as bright as standard incandecents. While it's the fact they turn on instantly is what gives you the safety, not brightness, having them too dim to even see would be a factor too! :) I admit to going cheap a few years ago when switching over the turn signals and had complaints during a daytime caravan that they were difficult to see. Every time I buy cheap LEDS for tail lights, they either don't work properly or are too dim. I'll never make that mistake again!

Plasma ones look cool, but are pricey. Too bad they don't list the lumen output so you can compare with other LED and incandescent bulbs.

Yeah, mine are all from SuperBright as well. I did the whole car - everything but the headlights and low battery bulb is LED on my car, interior and exterior.

[dtavres]

Tempting... has anyone installed these 'plasma LEDs' in their DeLorean yet? I HAVE already replaced my original brown boards with the LED kit from DMC.

I often feel a bit paranoid when driving, that the tail lights aren't bright enough. If these bulbs are just about swapping out my current LEDs, it's tempting. Even if just for the running lights.

[content22207_2]

I often feel a bit paranoid when driving, that the tail lights aren't bright enough.

DeLorean tail lights (what I call "Position 3") differ significantly from all the other positions:
- No reflective lining
- No parabolic reflector
- Dual purpose lens/reflector cuts down on forward light projection (only projection, given the lack of reflective lining and parabolic reflector)

I rewired my boards and swapped out sockets to use Positions 2 and 4 as tail lights. Bulbs are 1157 (LED), so they double bright along with Position 3 (1156 LED) as brake lights:

45294

I also lined Position 3 with chrome tape and added a rear reflector (curved, not true parabolic, but close enough):

45295 45296

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DavidProehl]

Installed some plasma LEDs today. Very happy with the results. Before you couldn't tell when my tail lights or blinkers were on in the daylight, now it actually is as bright as my daily drivers.

Left tail light has new bulbs, right is old. The blinker and reverse lights aren't on in this picture, and my camera isn't doing the difference justice. In real life the plasma LEDs look very bright and the incandescents are almost impossible to see lit.
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[jawn101]

Installed some plasma LEDs today. Very happy with the results. Before you couldn't tell when my tail lights or blinkers were on in the daylight, now it actually is as bright as my daily drivers.

Left tail light has new bulbs, right is old. The blinker and reverse lights aren't on in this picture, and my camera isn't doing the difference justice. In real life the plasma LEDs look very bright and the incandescents are almost impossible to see lit.
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Agreed it's very tough to tell how good these are from that picture. Where did you get them? Superbright? Have a link?

[DavidProehl]

Agreed it's very tough to tell how good these are from that picture. Where did you get them? Superbright? Have a link?


Here is a left/right comparison video, again, camera isn't really showing the difference.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v9PpkxROAg4

Here are the bulbs: http://jlcconcept.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=785219

Coupon code "kittyjlc" gets you 20% off your order.

[iflights]

Just replaced my DMCH Led brake lights with PUTCO "Plasma" LED 1156. Significantly brighter than DMCH led bulb. Was looking for something brighter for the running lights. These are too bright for running lights (would look like you are driving with your foot on the brake), but they are perfect intensity for brake lights. Expensive. Trying to address similar concern as other poster here...in bright sun my brake lights were hard to see.

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[OZ DMC]

Just replaced my DMCH Led brake lights with PUTCO "Plasma" LED 1156. Significantly brighter than DMCH led bulb. Was looking for something brighter for the running lights. These are too bright for running lights (would look like you are driving with your foot on the brake), but they are perfect intensity for brake lights. Expensive. Trying to address similar concern as other poster here...in bright sun my brake lights were hard to see.

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Hope this is not a stupid questioin but can I fit LED's/Plasma bulbs to original tail light circuit boards (with new relay for flashers) or do I need to fit new boards as well?

[DMC5180]

You don't need new boards , but it's highly recommended.


Dennis

[OZ DMC]

You don't need new boards , but it's highly recommended.


Dennis

Thanks Dennis