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View Full Version : Electrical DMCH rocker switch - wiring



sdg3205
06-26-2013, 01:06 AM
I've just got 2 new rocker switches for my console.

I am going to power a CB radio with one and a US spec cigarette lighter hub with the other. I was going to tie in to the cigar lighter 12v and ground right there but thought it might be better to run a dedicated 12v from the battery to those switches and ground it to the radio bracket or elsewhere.

Both the cb and hub have fuses.

Also, there are 3 pins on the rocker switches. What's the 3rd pin for?

I'd love your suggestions.

Cheers

dmc6960
06-26-2013, 01:29 AM
Got a multimeter to test them? It may be a single pole dual throw. The rockers switches are just defrost switches without decals on them.

I would not ground to the radio bracket. For grounding new accessories I made a new ground port using a 12ga wire from the bulkhead ground to the relay shelf. I then attach new accessories to that ground.

For new accessory power I use one of the spare spades on the door lock solenoid breaker. Since the solenoids only throw for a very short moment, you don't need to worry about overloading it. Even better if you have DMCNW actuators in place of the solenoids.

sdg3205
06-26-2013, 01:33 AM
That's a great idea. Thanks Jim!

DMC5180
06-26-2013, 08:25 PM
Also, there are 3 pins on the rocker switches. What's the 3rd pin for?

I'd love your suggestions.

Cheers The ON/OFF rockers are just UNMARKED rear window defrost switches. When used in that location the 3 spade is for power to the indicator light on the A/C panel. For the purpose of an ON/OFF switch you can use the extra spade to power 2 Items at once. I can't think of why a person would want too unless it's an item they would want a remote power indicator.

sdg3205
06-28-2013, 03:13 AM
Well, the wiring went in nicely. I bought 12 gauge wires and ran the 12v from the door lock circuit breaker and ran the grounds to the bulkhead.

Then the switches...

One broke within 10 minutes. Sometimes I pull the caps off to help seat them and avoid stress on the mechanism. I pulled the cap off one and set it in. Put the cap on and it works intermittently.

As I seated the other one the metal internals blew apart. I have no idea how to put it back together. One switch is intermittent and the other may be broken. Pretty bummed since the project took 2 and half hours to do and I'm left with about 25% of what I should have operating.

Some days the car just wins.

Notifier
06-28-2013, 04:03 PM
Well, the wiring went in nicely. I bought 12 gauge wires and ran the 12v from the door lock circuit breaker and ran the grounds to the bulkhead.

Then the switches...

One broke within 10 minutes. Sometimes I pull the caps off to help seat them and avoid stress on the mechanism. I pulled the cap off one and set it in. Put the cap on and it works intermittently.

As I seated the other one the metal internals blew apart. I have no idea how to put it back together. One switch is intermittent and the other may be broken. Pretty bummed since the project took 2 and half hours to do and I'm left with about 25% of what I should have operating.

Some days the car just wins.

I ordered the same pair of switches a couple months ago and was disappointed with the build quality. I was hoping for an "improved part" they would be a little more robust than the original. For such a large switch, you could almost fit a smaller pre-manufactured switch inside while keeping the original look. I think one of mine came apart on me during installation but managed it get it back together again. Check out this thread on a link to repair the switch: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?287-How-To-Repair-Defrost-Switch&highlight=defroster+switch

The other thing I noticed was they seem a little slow to react, move the switch to the on position and a second goes by before you hear the "click", almost like there is too much grease inside the switch making it sticky.

DMC5180
06-28-2013, 08:13 PM
Well, the wiring went in nicely. I bought 12 gauge wires and ran the 12v from the door lock circuit breaker and ran the grounds to the bulkhead.

Then the switches...

One broke within 10 minutes. Sometimes I pull the caps off to help seat them and avoid stress on the mechanism. I pulled the cap off one and set it in. Put the cap on and it works intermittently.

As I seated the other one the metal internals blew apart. I have no idea how to put it back together. One switch is intermittent and the other may be broken. Pretty bummed since the project took 2 and half hours to do and I'm left with about 25% of what I should have operating.

Some days the car just wins.

You can reassemble the the internal pieces. I just recent reassembled my original switch after it had accidently fell apart inside.

the KEY to reassembly is that you must separate the rectangle body from the bottom (terminals) section. You have to carefully pry open the the sides where you can see the plastic lock tabs in the 4 windows. Once the pieces are separated, you can easily reassemble the pieces. For reference pop the rocker off the other switch so you can see the position of the pieces.

Good luck you will figure it out as it's not rocket science.

SS Spoiler
06-28-2013, 09:37 PM
rocker science?

DMC5180
06-28-2013, 09:39 PM
For visual clarity.

HOW-TO-REASSEMBLE: A REAR WINDOW DEFROST ROCKER SWITCH or DMCH UM-MARKED ON/OFF ROCKER SWITCH

1. Carefully separate switch body as shown NOTE: it's plastic and can break if your too rough with it. I used a couple butter knifes. Also make note of the index KEY that's on one side of the switch body. You will want to reassemble in the same orientation.
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2. These are the 3 parts that fall apart. PIN, CONTACT BAR, CURVED SPRING.
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3. the Spring Tang goes in the slot on the contact tab.
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4. Carefully slide the SPRING and CONTACT into position. The top of the spring fits into the notch under long armed terminal.
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5. Slide the PIN thru the contact tab hooked fingers and across the top of the long arm terminal.
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6. All pieces in place ( switch is in the OPEN position) it's also easy for it to fall apart again when it's like this.
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7. Switch in the CLOSED position. The assembly will stay together much better in this configuration.
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8. At this point you snap the body and bottom back together and reinstall the cover in the ROCKED ON position.

It should SNAP ON/OFF at this point. Congratulations your done.


Note: If moderators wish to move this into the HOW-TO-SECTION That would be fine with me.

sdg3205
06-29-2013, 01:51 AM
Thank you so much.

Ill give this a shot.