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leroyvette
07-09-2011, 04:22 PM
Recently purchased 2126---fixed many problems---more to go. Had not ran since 1990--latest problem is no brake lites---PO had removed one of the green wires from the stoplite switch----rigged a hot (12v) lead in its place----no stop lites---fuses 4 & 12 are good---have continuity from each green lead to taillite ckt board----but the problem must be no 12V on one of the stoplite switch wires----I have no wiring diagram for this ckt----any help--info would be appreciated.
Thanks

Alan
07-09-2011, 04:29 PM
Wiring diagrams (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?40-All-Wiring-Schematics&highlight=wiring+diagram)

I hope this helps.

DeLorean03
07-09-2011, 05:06 PM
Just for a little extra help, there is a pin that controls the brakelights in the bulkhead connectors compartment. They should be covered by a "black bulkhead connector box" - it is all located in the back of the engine compartment on the passenger's side. Once you get that little covering off (all of like - one hinge), you'll see bulkhead connectors with different colors as demonstrated in this photo:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2459&d=1310245449

You are interested in the black bulkhead connector - pin #41 as seen here in the listing below. MAKE sure that pin is all the way out (should be aligned with all the others - all pins should be exactly the same length). This was once my trouble when my brake lights did not want to behave.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=2458&d=1310245449

I know SOMEWHERE on this forums this pdf I'm pulling these images from is available - I just cannot seem to find it. Mods, I would like to politely ask where this pdf is or recommend the bulkhead connector pdf gets placed in the resources section of the forums, as I alone have found it to be extremely valuable. If I knew how to upload pdf's, I'd just do it myself - but all I know how to upload are image files =/ .

sdg3205
07-09-2011, 06:37 PM
I'm not sure if it will apply, but it's a good idea if you have the original tail light boards to do the nut and bolt fix.

My lights NEVER worked properly until I drilled out the solder joins ever so slightly and installed a nice tight nut and bolt on each joint. Then clean/sand the sockets. Gently do the same at the harness on the boards.

leroyvette
07-10-2011, 02:14 PM
I'm not sure if it will apply, but it's a good idea if you have the original tail light boards to do the nut and bolt fix.

My lights NEVER worked properly until I drilled out the solder joins ever so slightly and installed a nice tight nut and bolt on each joint. Then clean/sand the sockets. Gently do the same at the harness on the boards.

My boards look original---I dont have solder joints---each lamp socket connection is a rivet to the board---is that what you are referring to???

DMCMW Dave
07-10-2011, 02:29 PM
My boards look original---I dont have solder joints---each lamp socket connection is a rivet to the board---is that what you are referring to???

Run a 4-40 screw through each of the rivets. This helps immensenly. When you get tired of messing with them get yourself a set of the upgraded boards (fiberglass and coated) that are on the market. They are a huge improvement but still don't solve the second issue - that the edge connector design they used is just crap, especially for a circuit board that's out in the weather.

PS - I'm referring to the design by the original manufacture with the big open connector, not something specific to the aftermarket boards.

sdg3205
07-10-2011, 02:37 PM
Run a 4-40 screw through each of the rivets. This helps immensenly. When you get tired of messing with them get yourself a set of the upgraded boards (fiberglass and coated) that are on the market. They are a huge improvement but still don't solve the second issue - that the edge connector design they used is just crap, especially for a circuit board that's out in the weather.

Yes, sorry, they are rivets. Exactly what Dave said.

Before the fix my brake lights and turn signals failed constantly. Since I've done the fix I haven't had one issue, though i don't drive the car in wet weather!

leroyvette
07-10-2011, 03:15 PM
Yes, sorry, they are rivets. Exactly what Dave said.

Before the fix my brake lights and turn signals failed constantly. Since I've done the fix I haven't had one issue, though i don't drive the car in wet weather!

Thanks for the info on the circuit boards---however, my real problem is no 12V at the stoplite switch--PO had rigged 12v from another source---the correct 12V lead, I think, is a double green wire connector at the stoplite switch--but no 12V---fuse 18 is good---am I chasing the right wire---the double green connector at the stoplite switch??Also the ground at the taillite boards---only the black wire---is this the only common ground, or is there anothe ground for the stoplite circuit??
Thanks for all the help.

Bitsyncmaster
07-10-2011, 03:28 PM
My brakes have an in-line fuse near the switch. I think this was done on most 1981 cars.

Lenny
07-10-2011, 08:47 PM
Stupid Question, do you have to have the key on for the brake lights to work? Mine don't work unless the key is on. I've never had a car like that before.

Bitsyncmaster
07-10-2011, 08:58 PM
Stupid Question, do you have to have the key on for the brake lights to work? Mine don't work unless the key is on. I've never had a car like that before.

That was the change they did to put it on a fuse in the fuse block. Mine with the fuse near the switch does not need the key on to light the brake lights.

Maybe that is the problem with the other guys no brake lights.