The Original DLM Thread

[sdg3205]

Who else out there is still running their original DLM?

I certainly am, despite all it's flaws and controversy! With my knowledge of how the doors work, come apart, how to escape and my awareness that it can fail without warning I'm pretty comfortable with it in use.

So far it hasn't caused any problems including killing the battery sitting for 2 - 3 weeks.

I should say I'm running DPNW's door lock upgrade for the original DLM but it has no effect on battery killing potential of course.

I'm just curious. Who else is living dangerously on the edge with me?!

If you have some horror stories I'd love to hear them too.

[Patrick C]

For those confused, DLM=Door Lock Module. Took me a minute to understand.

[sdg3205]

This guy.

[DMCMW Dave]

I'd say 90% of the cars I see are still successfully running it. It's not as bad as it's reputation would have folks believe, especially if you use a battery cutoff.

The Digital DLM is a great improvement because in the event someone locks the doors without latching them all the way, it will save your solenoids (and battery).

No big horror stories, although I did recently have one kill a battery here rather quickly due to a bad solenoid.

[Ashyukun]

I'm still running the original DLM, but I'm running Toby's actuators and not the solenoids, so I don't think I'm likely to see any real issues...

[Chris 16409]

It seems the new actuators play nicer with the original door lock module than the solenoids do. I imagine if the original lock module is in good oder, the actuators shouldn't give it any problems. I'm still using a LockZilla, and so far am happy with it.

[tiger38117]

I use it, but I do unplug it when the car is going to sit for a while. Also running Toby's actuators and keyless entry.

[DMCMW Dave]

A great feature of the Digital Lock Module is that it will power Toby's motorized actuators without any external relays. With the OEM lock module you end up with a pair of extra relays to change the solenoid pulses to reversing polarity to the motors.

Less parts = good.

[sdg3205]

A great feature of the Digital Lock Module is that it will power Toby's motorized actuators without any external relays. With the OEM lock module you end up with a pair of extra relays to change the solenoid pulses to reversing polarity to the motors.

Less parts = good.

What DMC really needs is a Joe Cool equivalent/reproduction. I'd buy it in a heart beat.

EDIT - but I think toby's fans solve the problem for roughly the same price.

[Grover]

I think Grady is still selling his fan relay boxes like Joe Cool

[Chris 16409]

Check out Bitsyncmaster's new solid state fan and fan fail relays. They are probabbly the most modern "fan controller" available.

[sdg3205]

Check out Bitsyncmaster's new solid state fan and fan fail relays. They are probabbly the most modern "fan controller" available.

Actually I've already been talking to Dave about them!

It would be nice to have the fan fail lights back in action as a fail safe.

[WelmoedJ]

As you refer to it: I also live "dangerously" :)
I do have modified the original DLM and use actuators.
I also have an alarm system that's always on (automatically after a certain time).
I recently modified my fans' switch so it can run after a long drive even if the IGN lock is off.

Usually some three weeks before the battery should be so far down it won't start the car.
Anyway within that three weeks I would have used the car a couple of times, so actually there's no problem.

Welmoed.

[tiger38117]

As you refer to it: I also live "dangerously" :)
I recently modified my fans' switch so it can run after a long drive even if the IGN lock is off.


Isn't it pointless to run the fans with engine off when no coolant is circulating? You are cooling what's in the radiator, but what's in the rest of the loop is unaffected...or am I missing something? :what_the:

[DMCMW Dave]

Isn't it pointless to run the fans with engine off when no coolant is circulating? You are cooling what's in the radiator, but what's in the rest of the loop is unaffected...or am I missing something? :what_the:

Yeah, but some other cars do it anyway (you'll occasionally hear an older European car with the fans running after turning off the engine). In a conventional car you also get some air-cooling of the engine compartment but that's not worth much.

[Nicholas R]

It makes sense if the engine is right next to the engine but with the engine 10 feet away it seems a little futile.

[WelmoedJ]

Heat rises, cold drops. That goes for air and water and therefore also will apply to coolant.
True, there is no circulation as the pump is no longer active.

The "otterstat" - in my case the electronically controlled temperature switch - is in the same place as the original otterstat.
This electronically controlled device is - alike its mechanical counterpart - switched off if the temperature falls below a certain value (forgive me: I have forgotten the actual 'on' and 'off' values).
So there has to be some sort of circulation that causes the temp to drop sufficiently to make the switch go to 'off' (and so the fans).
Also - as long as the engine temperature is high enough - the coolant can circulate somewhat, call it natural flow.

This all helps to more quickly reach a lower temperature in the car's cooling system and thus dropping the engine temperature.
Another advantage of the electronically controlled system is the NTC is adjustable.
This makes it possible to lower the starting point of the fans in summer and raise it in winter (yes, I drive all year if no specific maintenance is needed).

Whatever helps the car to run reliable and keeps it as cool as possible, works for me.