Installing Power Window Switches - How Hard To Push?

[RammJaeger]

I recently got new power window switches for the center console from DMCH. When I try and push them into the hole, I'm applying what I feel is some pretty serious pressure, but they don't seem to be popping in. How much pressure is safe to apply to these things before breaking them? Is there some other way to get them in other than just pushing down from on top of the button?

[DMCMW Dave]

I recently got new power window switches for the center console from DMCH. When I try and push them into the hole, I'm applying what I feel is some pretty serious pressure, but they don't seem to be popping in. How much pressure is safe to apply to these things before breaking them? Is there some other way to get them in other than just pushing down from on top of the button?

Your console is too low - the console is made of paper often collapses from age and/or people climbing over them. Also the new switches are microscopically longer than the old ones which contributes to the problem (This is not an issue on a console that is at the original height, BTW).

Remove the ash tray, and pull up on the console. You'll probably note that the switches will now fit (check under the switches to make sure you are not hitting the other wiring bundle).

We often insert a small piece of 2x2 wood cut to about a inch long, just forward of the ash try hole, to hold the console back at the correct height. Others have actually re-formed the fiberglass body below the switches, but that's really overkill as opposed to just lifting the console slightly.

[Dangermouse]

If you got the lighted ones, I understand that they are slightly longer than OEM. There are a couple of threads on here on how people fixed that particular problem.

[DMC5180]

slightly longer switches! (try 1/4 inch or 6MM) slightly would be 1/16" or 2MM. Yes the do fit it the console is the correct height mine did. Then I replaced the center console with a used part better (vinyl) and the switches didn't fit. I blocked it up as was suggested and it's fine now.

[lazabby]

I'm having the opposite problem. I'm having a hard time getting them out. A fellow member easily popped his switches out. I'm nearly at the point of cutting my fingers trying to force them out. Gotta get a crowbar in there.

[RammJaeger]

If you got the lighted ones, I understand that they are slightly longer than OEM. There are a couple of threads on here on how people fixed that particular problem.

Yeah funny thing is I didn't order the lighted ones, but it looks like I got sent the lighted ones. I noticed them lighting up when I was trying to push them in. Do you know which threads you are referring to, as I did a search before I posted this thread and couldn't find anything.

[DMC5180]

I'm having the opposite problem. I'm having a hard time getting them out. A fellow member easily popped his switches out. I'm nearly at the point of cutting my fingers trying to force them out. Gotta get a crowbar in there.

The NEW switches have much better retaining tabs when properly installed. You may have to remove the Ashtray, then push in the tabs on the aft edge, then Tip up and out. I've also had good success removing the Dummy switches and Rear Defrost switch first. It allows you to get fingers or L-shaped picks in there to push in on the Window switch tabs.

[Dangermouse]

Yeah funny thing is I didn't order the lighted ones, but it looks like I got sent the lighted ones. I noticed them lighting up when I was trying to push them in. Do you know which threads you are referring to, as I did a search before I posted this thread and couldn't find anything.

here's one:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?6673-LED-Window-Switches&highlight=switches

and it has links to two other ones

[refugeefromcalif]

I purchased the lighted switches Wed., (along with a few other Goodies).
When they come in I'll be ready to block up my console and review all other details here.

George

[Bitsyncmaster]

New switch is 0.77" to where the connector will seat on the pin tabs if you open the metal jumper to seat flush on the switch plastic. Add 0.025" if your jumper seats on the pin tabs.

OEM windor switch is 0.60" to where the connector will seat on the pin tabs.

[RammJaeger]

Is this switch lighted:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10215-window-switch-kit-pair.aspx

I didn't they they were lighted, but while I was pushing them in they would sometimes light up green. They don't actually seem to light up green any other time than when I was trying to push them in real hard to install them. Is there something else that needs to be done to get them to light up when the car is on or when the car's lights are on? The shop that was fixing my windows not going up and down "installed" them (i.e. they were not pushed down all the way in the hole), so if there were any instructions with them I didn't get them.

[DMC5180]

Yes, those are illuminated with incandescent bulbs in the Basic switch. The other version w/ LED's (Green) are modified in a "Post production" process and is an added cost to the basic switch, hence the price difference.


Each switch comes with a Small (Optional) Contact "bridge" Tab that slides over the the main 12V feed male spade and the Illumination spade next to it. This provides constant Power to the Illumination bulb/LED's. You don't really see them during the day but they are ON. If you don't have that Aluminum Bridge tab in place, It is possible you are just accidentally touching the illumination terminal when you are fiddling with the connector.

[RammJaeger]

Yes, those are illuminated with incandescent bulbs in the Basic switch. The other version w/ LED's (Green) are modified in a "Post production" process and is an added cost to the basic switch, hence the price difference.


Each switch comes with a Small (Optional) Contact "bridge" Tab that slides over the the main 12V feed male spade and the Illumination spade next to it. This provides constant Power to the Illumination bulb/LED's. You don't really see them during the day but they are ON. If you don't have that Aluminum Bridge tab in place, It is possible you are just accidentally touching the illumination terminal when you are fiddling with the connector.

Should my kit have come with that tab? I don't have it, so either the shop that I had do the work didn't install it, or it didn't come with the kit? Any way to get this clip separately? Or is there some other way I can jumper the two terminals? Can anyone show me which two blades you jumper?

[DMC5180]

Should my kit have come with that tab? I don't have it, so either the shop that I had do the work didn't install it, or it didn't come with the kit? Any way to get this clip separately? Or is there some other way I can jumper the two terminals? Can anyone show me which two blades you jumper?

I don't know why it wouldn't have the tab. Unless DMCH chooses to leave it out. So your forced to spend the extra $20 to make it function. In the beginning when these switches were first introduced they were advertised as Illuminated (It was a side benefit of the the switch they had sourced) they did not design illumination it into the switch, it was already there. The only issue was powering the added function. The switch has 5 terminals. the original switch had 4 and the wire harness was configured with 4 wires. DMCH's simple solution was to bridge the 2 terminals with the Flat Tab connector bar. It's slotted and slides down firmly over side-by-side spades.

I did something different, installed a 5th wire into the factory harness then tapped the Cigarette (illumination) wire. This way the illumination of the window switches would be ON/OFF with the Headlight switch (IF you have the A/C panel light mod also). Unfortunately I tossed the tabs that came with the switch since I didn't need them. The bugger with adding the 5th wire is getting the (Housing style) 3/16 terminals.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I did something different, installed a 5th wire into the factory harness then tapped the Cigarette (illumination) wire. This way the illumination of the window switches would be ON/OFF with the Headlight switch (IF you have the A/C panel light mod also). Unfortunately I tossed the tabs that came with the switch since I didn't need them. The bugger with adding the 5th wire is getting the (Housing style) 3/16 terminals.

Mine work the same but I ditched the OEM connectors and soldered wires to the switch with a new connector set. I also don't know where my "jumpers" went.

[RammJaeger]

Your console is too low - the console is made of paper often collapses from age and/or people climbing over them. Also the new switches are microscopically longer than the old ones which contributes to the problem (This is not an issue on a console that is at the original height, BTW).

Remove the ash tray, and pull up on the console. You'll probably note that the switches will now fit (check under the switches to make sure you are not hitting the other wiring bundle).

We often insert a small piece of 2x2 wood cut to about a inch long, just forward of the ash try hole, to hold the console back at the correct height. Others have actually re-formed the fiberglass body below the switches, but that's really overkill as opposed to just lifting the console slightly.

So I just did this today and got them to fit. It actually took a 2x2 cut to about 1.5 inches tall and then some smaller shims between the metal and the fiberboard console. I really appreciate what you all do and I've already bought a bunch of parts from you guys in the few weeks I've had my car, but I think you all should mention this issue on the site where you order the part. My car has 11,000 miles on it, and I'm guessing not too many elbows have rested on the console in that time. I had to raise it up so much I was starting to see daylight by the side of the console where the switches go. I lowered it back down just enough so you couldn't see under the console. But the new part was about 1/2 inch longer than the old one, and even raising the console up as high as it can possibly go just barely fits. That's not quite a drop in replacement to me.

In other news, is there any way to get the jumpers that cause the switches to illuminate separate from the switches? I had the parts drop shipped to a shop that was working on the car, and either they lost them, or they didn't come with the part.

[refugeefromcalif]

The weather didn't cooperate today so I couldn't install my new Motorola 140 amp alternator but, I was able to start putting in my new LED window switches. :fancy:

It started out looking like I didn't need to Prop up my Center Console and had the room for the extra length of both switches, plugs and wires.
Nope, I pushed both new LED switches in place and of course, Blew fuse number 11. :bang:
The rain started again, (I've never been so happy that I can open a door on a car and not have the inside of the door Soaked!

Here's a pic of the plug side of the LED switch. DMCH Instructions to the left, illumination Jumper to the right.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20501&d=1373841492

Old switches in their place. (I don't know why my left hand Dummy switch leans to the left)..

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20502&d=1373841680

New LED switch, (left), comparied to Stock switch..

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20503&d=1373841866

New LED switch plugged into old socket. (Get the Illumination jumper DEEP on it's conectors)...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20505&d=1373842164

Until I can raise the center console about a 1/2", here's where my switches sit right now so they don't Blow the fuse again. :eek:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20506&d=1373842319

I wasn't able to get pics of the lit up LED arrows, Up, Down, on the switches. (Their Cool) and everybodies seen pics before...

George