Volt Gauge, and Motorola 90 Alt. VS. 140Alt.

[refugeefromcalif]

Hey all.
I did a little searching here and couldn't find answers to my few questions. (Hence this thread).
Also, Because I sometimes feel that Bigger is Better, (No Jokes please :rolleyes:), I've ordered the Motorola 140 amp alternator to replace my 31 yo. 90. (Which still works).

Since I got my car back from DMC Florida, I've noticed that the Volt gauge seems to register a bit lower, (than it used too), with different loads on the system.
The only additions to the electrical system was a Wing-A-Loft.
(Granted, I Do need to re-check all the grounds and see how they are).

As kind of a Baseline, I was wondering if the following pics, (All sitting at Idle in my yard), are about Normal in a 90 amp. Alternator situation, with the described loads for each.
(Excuse the dust, 6599 needs a Major cleaning)...


Sitting at Idle with nothing on.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20376&d=1373136718

In Vent mode, fan turned to 4, (High).
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20377&d=1373136829

Adding headlights,
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20378&d=1373136954

Now turning A/C on to Max. (Fans still on 4).
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20379&d=1373137085

My other question is, does my temp gauge reading look Normal? As these pics were taken, the air temp is about 75. Even at the 95+ temps we had a few weeks ago, (A/C on), the needle stays at this level.
When A/C isn't on, I've never seen the gauge get more than a needles width beyond the pictured line before the fans kick on.

If I need to clarify something, let me know.

Oh, Is the Motorola 140 alternator worth the upgrade?

Thanks in advance.

George

[Chris Burns]

Going to a Delco CS-130 is my recommendation. They are slightly cheaper.

[refugeefromcalif]

Going to a Delco CS-130 is my recommendation. They are slightly cheaper.

Is the Delco Better? Or, just cheaper? Is it a Direct bolt on replacement?

Well it's moot point now. I've already ordered the Motorola 140 from DMCH.
I was looking for a Bolt on replacement and figured I'd support a DMC vendor.

George

[Chris Burns]

Is the Delco Better? Or, just cheaper? Is it a Direct bolt on replacement?

Well it's moot point now. I've already ordered the Motorola 140 from DMCH.
I was looking for a Bolt on replacement and figured I'd support a DMC vendor.

George

I will tell you this. The Delco CS-130 works very well. My friend Oliver has it on his BTTF Delorean and is able to handle everything:D

Some mods do have to be made in order to make it work, but it is well worth the effort. Pulley has to be swapped, holes have to be made slightly bigger, and different type of belts have to be used.

[Kenny_Z]

Those levels look exactly like my old 90 alternator would output. The temp gauge looks normal to me as well but I'll let guys with more DeLorean experience chime in on that. I think the 140 would be worth the upgrade. I didn't use it though, I installed a Caddy alternator that I think is 110. I can't remember.

[kings1527]

Hi George,

I was in a similar situation last year but my volt meter never worked right until I added Hervey's double ground cable. Once I did that, my voltage reading at idle is extremely accurate yet a little higher than yours. When I bought my car, I had the Motorola still in it but like yours, mine was working just fine. I decided to go with the DMCH 140A so I'd never have to worry about it and I've been very happy with it. The DMCH unit is drop in place although you'll have to change the electrical connection on the small wire (takes 2 minutes, if that).

At idle, I read about 14.25V via a multimeter. It puts out great power, even at idle. Your other readings seem low to me, too. Like you said, double check your grounds and check the voltage with a multimeter.

There's a chance that your Motorola is finally giving up the ghost but you'd have to measure it first. IMO, you can't go wrong getting the 32 year old alternator out and putting in a new one. The Motorolas were historically VERY stout but I want to be able to drive my car wherever whenever and psychologically, a 32 year old alternator wasn't affording that. Now, I wouldn't hesitate one second taking my car cross country if I wanted to.

As far as your temp gauge goes, that looks low too (depending how long you had the car idling for). Do your fans kick on/off where they should in relation to the temp gauge? Maybe you really are looking at a bad ground causing things to read low.

From your Dunmurry brother, 6575.

Edit: one thing to note too is that I never had a properly working volt meter prior to Hervey's cable. I'm not sure where my meter would've been with Hervey's cable and the 90 amp Motorola.

[dmc6960]

These voltage readings are typical of a bad bulkead/frame ground. Try cleaning both sides of the ground bolts on the bulkhead connectors. You'll need to remove the rear wall to get to the inside side. Then you'll also want to clean the ground source on that, which is a frame ground to the right of the engine. It could also be a bad battery ground but the bulkhead ground is much easier to get to.

As for the temp gauge, this is perfectly normal as that's where your thermostat is set at. With the AC running and the cooling fans running, it should rarely go over that. With the AC off and the engine idling for a long while, it should go about halfway from where it is now to the 220 mark where the cooling fans will naturally kick in.

[Ron]

$.02

Confirm your readings with a volt meter connected directly to the battery. If you get similar readings try this:
Ensure the belt is tight.
Take a set of good jumper cables and connect one cable between the battery (-) and the alternator case/bracket.
Connect the other cable between the battery (+) and the main (+) terminal on the alternator. This will eliminate all ground and other wiring except the field circuit feed, which is OK if the alternator puts out at all. If readings are still abnormal, you need an alternator.

[kings1527]

Take a set of good jumper cables and connect one cable between the battery (-) and the alternator case/bracket.
Connect the other cable between the battery (+) and the main (+) terminal on the alternator. This will eliminate all ground and other wiring except the field circuit feed, which is OK if the alternator puts out at all. If readings are still abnormal, you need an alternator.

Never knew that....thanks Ron!

[kings1527]

I was just doing a little research on the cable test that Ron referred to and came across another test on another website. They say to start the car, take off the negative terminal from the battery (some are saying positive terminal), and if the car dies then you know the alternator is bad. You might have to place it under more of a load with lights on, AC on, etc.

Some were saying that on an OBDII car it's not good to do that but pre-OBDII is OK. Can anyone confirm that that test is worthwhile or even OK to do on our cars?

[Ron]

The test will only tell you if the alternator is putting out something. It will not tell you if the alternator or regulator is good. It is also very prone to shoot the voltage regulator!

It's less likely to do damage if it has an external (mechanical) voltage regulator (probably where the pre OBDII idea came from) but a BAD IDEA, period.

[Kenny_Z]

I think that site is thinking about cars from the 1960s. Worked great as a test on my Nova but thankfully the guys here warned me away from trying that on the DeLorean.

[Elvis]

I repeat myself - again of course:

runing the engine and disconnecting the battery is called "LOAD DUMP"


That's the worst test for electrical devices on cars !!!!


have fun with replacing some ECUs !


Your voltage problem is the well known and almost daily asked for GROUND and +12V Problem.
I wrote something similar YESTERDAY on this forum !


BTW - 6548 says hello

[refugeefromcalif]

Thanks for all the replys!
I'll get my meter on the car in a bit, (If it doesn't start raining before). I was Lucky I had a window earlier to get my oil change done.

Ron, I'll try your jumper cable test. (Never heard of it before but, I'm still a Noob with these cars).

Alex and Elvis. I never noticed your Vins. were close mine. Greetings from 6599! :wave2:

Alex, your signature says that 6575 has a "Born On Date" of 11/11/81. Where did you get this date? Is this based on a Cave painting?
Makes me wonder what 6599's BOD is? Only because 11/11 is my birthday, (Just 20 years earlier)...

Next topic I have to address, My Hot Start issues. (That DMC Florida Swears isn't there). :confused:

Thanks again all!

George

[kings1527]

Alex and Elvis. I never noticed your Vins. were close mine. Greetings from 6599! :wave2:

Alex, your signature says that 6575 has a "Born On Date" of 11/11/81. Where did you get this date? Is this based on a Cave painting?
Makes me wonder what 6599's BOD is? Only because 11/11 is my birthday, (Just 20 years earlier)...

Thanks again all!

George

Hi George,

When I was completely redoing my interior, I had to swap out my original dash since it was sun baked and cracked. When I took it out, I looked on the back and it said "11/11/81". To my knowledge, they had doubled production around that time and doing maybe 80 cars or so per day. So you might be on the same day!. By finding that date, I had to go with that as my 'born on date'. I'm hoping that day is the same for yours! How serendipitous would that be?

20430

[dvonk]

I think that site is thinking about cars from the 1960s. Worked great as a test on my Nova but thankfully the guys here warned me away from trying that on the DeLorean.

works great on my 1958 Buick... (has a generator, not an alternator) ;)

[David T]

works great on my 1958 Buick... (has a generator, not an alternator) ;)

On cars with any semi-conductors (ECU's) it can blow them up. I too have seen that *technique* and would not use it or recommend it. When testing an alternator you really should also test the battery and the wiring of the car. Either can make a good alternator appear to be bad. That is why bench-testing the alternator is the best way to check it. It eliminates all other possible causes and only tests the alternator.
David Teitelbaum

[JohnZ]

What about the original Ducellier 80 amp alternator that was put in (relatively) early cars? I read that it was too weak, and for that reason it was swapped for the Motorola one....

But is a Delorean driver in "danger" while driving with old 80 amp stock alternator? Is it an highly recommended upgrade?

[Grover]

I will tell you this. The Delco CS-130 works very well. My friend Oliver has it on his BTTF Delorean and is able to handle everything:D

Some mods do have to be made in order to make it work, but it is well worth the effort. Pulley has to be swapped, holes have to be made slightly bigger, and different type of belts have to be used.

A spacer also has to be made as it sits further back.

[NightFlyer]

What about the original Ducellier 80 amp alternator that was put in (relatively) early cars? I read that it was too weak, and for that reason it was swapped for the Motorola one....

But is a Delorean driver in "danger" while driving with old 80 amp stock alternator? Is it an highly recommended upgrade?

I, along with several other owners, are still driving with the Ducey. Hasn't left me stranded yet and shows no signs of quitting. However, before I upgrade the stereo, I plan on upgrading the alternator.

[mluder]

What about the original Ducellier 80 amp alternator that was put in (relatively) early cars? I read that it was too weak, and for that reason it was swapped for the Motorola one....

But is a Delorean driver in "danger" while driving with old 80 amp stock alternator? Is it an highly recommended upgrade?

I droce with the Ducey for about a year and then it finally gave up.

The new one I got from DMCNW - 140 Volt - only lasted a year. It's being sent back for an autopsy to see why it died prematurely.

Cheers
Steven

[JohnZ]

I see, probably to have the LED upgrade done helps significantly to rely on the Ducellier and reduce battery drain... probably it's unthinkable to have bulbs on, stereo on, head lights on, A/C on and running smoothly with the old Ducey...

:)

[David T]

I see, probably to have the LED upgrade done helps significantly to rely on the Ducellier and reduce battery drain... probably it's unthinkable to have bulbs on, stereo on, head lights on, A/C on and running smoothly with the old Ducey...

:)

Upgrading the alternator is highly recommended. So much so in fact, that the factory did it! Early on they realized the Ducey just wasn't enough. Converting to LED's won't make all that much difference, the big loads are still the A/C, the cooling fans, and the headlights. Changing the cooling fans would help but the Ducey cannot be considered reliable, especially now, many years older when a lot of them were failing when they were much younger!
David Teitelbaum

[JohnZ]

Thanks David, the fact that they changed it around VIN 4500 with the Motorola one must be substantial... still, I wanted to know (out of curiosity) if there were drivers that still trusted the old Ducey...

Better to swap it then!

:)

[refugeefromcalif]

I recieved my new Motorola 140 alternator a couple days ago from DMCH, My plan is to put in in this weekend. (Weather permitting).
Once I have it installed, I'll post my results.

George

[David T]

I recieved my new Motorola 140 alternator a couple days ago from DMCH, My plan is to put in in this weekend. (Weather permitting).
Once I have it installed, I'll post my results.

George

I wold charge the battery up before installing the alternator. Not the best thing for a new alternator to see, a low battery that it has to charge up! Alternators are not meant to recharge a dead battery. All they are supposed to do is replace what was used to start the car and once that is done they should be able to carry all of the electrical system's requirements unless the car is idling with a lot of load. In that case (which is supposed to be a SHORT period of time, ie, like waiting at a light) the battery will help until the alternator can give full output when the motor is reving above idle.
David Teitelbaum

[Stainless]

I recieved my new Motorola 140 alternator a couple days ago from DMCH, My plan is to put in in this weekend. (Weather permitting).
Once I have it installed, I'll post my results.

George

George, have you installed it yet? I'm anxious to hear about the results.

[refugeefromcalif]

George, have you installed it yet? I'm anxious to hear about the results.

Jared, Unfortunately No.
The day I'd intended to install it, it Poured rain.
When it hasn't rained here lately, I've been busy with work, Hot Start issues and Family problems. (I.E., My kids want money and Help for something)...

Hopefully this weekend I'll get a break and get it installed.

George

[Stainless]

Jared, Unfortunately No.
The day I'd intended to install it, it Poured rain.
When it hasn't rained here lately, I've been busy with work, Hot Start issues and Family problems. (I.E., My kids want money and Help for something)...

Hopefully this weekend I'll get a break and get it installed.

George

Thanks. Keep us posted on your progress.

Jared

[refugeefromcalif]

Update on my Motorola 90 to 140 alternator install;

After the rain that Didn't last all day, (like the Weather channel said), I decided to tackle my alternator swap.
I got to the point where I had the old one hanging by the wires, (where I could finally See them), and noticed that it didn't look like a Direct swap like I was told by by DMCH.?
After some searching here I started a new thread for HELP! (Mods, you Can close it).

After a Saturday phone call to DMC MW, (And the Very helpful knowledge of Dave S.), I was able to get my Motorola 140 installed!

Thanks for the help and chatting with me Dave! :wave2:

I have some pics of my dash, (Like I did in the first post), and what I was turning on/running at the time vs. my stock alt.

At idle in my yard with nothing on.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20783&d=1374963201

Adding vent fan on 4.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20784&d=1374963344

Turning on headlights.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20785&d=1374963486

A/C on Normal.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20786&d=1374963628

A/C on MAX.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20787&d=1374963769


All of the above, and adding brake lights.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20788&d=1374963911


For Grins and Giggles, I let off of the brake and Goosed the throttle. (I Love how the volt gauge jumps up now)...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20789&d=1374964037


A Big difference and I Love it!


George

[Elvis]

Voltage below 13V ?

Doesn't look healthy to me.


Does ist react that bad on the brake lights ?

[Ron]

I agree.

Did you ever use a meter to measure right off of the battery?

[Delorean02378]

Ordered one from Julee on Friday and plan to put it in this week. I'll post pictures and results as well. Evidently, they've been selling a lot of these. She mentioned there were 8 coming in on Monday and 8 going out the door.

Guess I'll throw the battery on the charger prior to installing.

[kings1527]

Yeah, a little low. I'm guessing you have a grounding problem. Did you install Hervey's double ground cable? Double check it with a multimeter.

I have the same alternator setup but with Hervey's cable. Here's a pic of mine at idle with brights on and max AC. The other is with the same but at 2k RPM. Attached are multimeter readings for each reading.

20792207932079120794

[refugeefromcalif]

Ordered one from Julee on Friday and plan to put it in this week. I'll post pictures and results as well. Evidently, they've been selling a lot of these. She mentioned there were 8 coming in on Monday and 8 going out the door.

Guess I'll throw the battery on the charger prior to installing.

I'd love to see your pics and results as well. If you don't post them here, at least post a link to the thread.

I Did put my battery on the charger before I installed my new alt. :)

George

[refugeefromcalif]

I agree.

Did you ever use a meter to measure right off of the battery?

Yep. I'll post pics in a few.

(Dial-up Sucks)... :mad:

George

[refugeefromcalif]

OK. Below are Multimeter pics with the new Motorola 140 alternator.
Once I turn on the A/C, I have a Very Big voltage drop.

When I spoke with Dave S. yesterday, he mentioned cleaning the alternator mounting bracket. I did that.

Car running, Voltage with nothing on.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20802&d=1375043286

Adding headlights on Highbeam, (Don't know why I didn't do that before).
Yes, It's Higher than nothing but it was Bouncing around a bit...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20801&d=1375043163

Adding fan, (on 4), In Vent position.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20803&d=1375043413

A/C on MAX.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20804&d=1375043548

Dash pic of the same A/C on MAX.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20805&d=1375043647

A/C on Normal.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20808&d=1375043774

Back to Fan on 4 in Vent mode.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=20809&d=1375043897


I'm losing voltage somewhere at idle when A/C is added to the mix. (I Know it's a voltage Hog)...
As soon as I goose the throttle to 1000 RPM, I'm back at 14+ volts with A/C on MAX.?
I've also turned on, opened Everything now to see how it affects the voltage.

Alex, I need to research which grounds you mention to check. Do you have pics of them?

George

[JohnZ]

At least your car's voltage gauge is working right!

[Ron]

As soon as I goose the throttle to 1000 RPM, I'm back at 14+ volts with A/C on MAX.?
We've seen this before.
You need a smaller pulley on the alternator. DeLorean main drive pulleys are smaller than most others...

[Bitsyncmaster]

Those high current alternators don't seem to do as good as lower current ones at idle. Your AC is putting the cooling fans on(30 amps), blower motor (24 amps)and AC clutch (5 amps). As long as your get 12.5 volts you should not be draining the battery.

[kings1527]

That's a pretty big drop off. The one where you're at 12.5-ish. I'm at 13.78V with highbeams, AC, and idle.

Here's a link to Hervey's ground cable:
http://specialtauto.com/

It's on the front page and about 1/3 the way down. It's a pretty cheap upgrade for $35 (manual) or about $40 for an auto. If you look on the front page, it's $45 for an automatic but if you go to his electrical page, he has it for $5 less. :dunno:

Ron would know better than me and the pulley might be an issue but I picked up the same alternator about a year ago and the only thing that's different with my setup from yours is Hervey's double ground cable. There's a good link for info on it here:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?159-SpecialTAuto-New-Battery-Ground-Cables&highlight=specialtauto+battery

In short, it replaces the original factory negative battery cable that runs from the negative terminal to the frame with a new cable, but it also adds an additional ground from the frame to the transmission. This reduces the electrical resistance in the car. The flag terminals on the original cable have the tendency to weaken, corrode, and increase resistance over the past 32 years. Some people swear their starter turns faster after adding the double ground (don't know about that on my end). I saw another post where the owner swore up and down that his alternator charged better once he added the double ground. Could be a bingo for you, right there. I never experienced what you're going through because I went from the factory Motorola 90A and factory ground to the DMCH 140A and Hervey's cable. It's definitely possible that DMCH might've changed the pulley in the past year.

It seems that so many issues are ground-related on the car and the car itself is pretty redundant already when it comes to grounds. You might want to check the bulkhead ground connection behind the carpeted bulkhead on the passenger's side and make sure it's clean.

As far as installing Hervey's cable goes, take close note that the original negative ground is DOUBLE NUTTED. You'll have to reach up on the inside of the frame and undo the first nut before you start cranking on the bolt head. The second one is welded to the frame. It'll be :rant: if you snap that bolt off and then try to figure out a way to get it out. Ask Billy in Brooklyn how that went for him.

I'm working on a write-up of my experience with installing Hervey's cable (very easy as long as you take that nut off first) and I'll post it here when I finish it up. I'll see if I can finish it up today. I have a ton of pics on it.

[kings1527]

OK, I just finished it up and it's here:

http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2013/07/installing-dpnws-headlight-switch.html

I went over several things:
-Hervey's double ground
-troubleshooting my alternator (at first I thought the new DMCH unit might've been defective since my volt meter read low)
-upgrading the light master switch
-Dave McKeen's RPM relay install
-an overall recipe for what I did to get the most out of the volt meter, including re-grounding the inertia switch

Let me know if I should make any corrections.

[Delorean02378]

Planning to replace the alterantor on 10989 tonight. Here's a couple pictures of the DMC 140 AMP alternator. More to come.

[Ron]

Did you read the amp ratings on the tag??

[kings1527]

Mine came with the same tag as well as a dyno performance sheet. It peaked at 129A at 2500 RPM. I kind of wondered about that.

Is this one of those 'rated' versus 'actual output' things?

[Delorean02378]

Did you read the amp ratings on the tag??


I did notice that but I'll take 128 over what my original one is putting out all day long!

[Exolis]

I wonder what temp they test their alternators at. Also wonder what the temp is on the alternator after it's been running. Temp will drastically change the performance of the Diodes in the Alternator(I have tested 110A alternators at 100C that drop down to near 75-80A). Luckily, the alternator on the DeLorean is positioned in an ideal location to allow a lot of air flow.

But yes, at Idle any alternator will not have high output. As mentioned, the A/C does have a lot of loads, on top of other loads it's getting close to maxing out and pully size could be an attribute as well.

[Ron]

You'll be ok if you don't want to run a rock concert for long periods of time.

========

The too large pulley is a no brainer -- The drive pulley is slightly smaller than expected ,and, slightly raising the idle resolves it... Reduce the pulley. (Old news on those ;-)

[Bitsyncmaster]

I wonder what temp they test their alternators at. Also wonder what the temp is on the alternator after it's been running. Temp will drastically change the performance of the Diodes in the Alternator(I have tested 110A alternators at 100C that drop down to near 75-80A). Luckily, the alternator on the DeLorean is positioned in an ideal location to allow a lot of air flow.

But yes, at Idle any alternator will not have high output. As mentioned, the A/C does have a lot of loads, on top of other loads it's getting close to maxing out and pully size could be an attribute as well.

The copper wire is another big power drop as the temp goes up.

[SS Spoiler]

I had put a larger alt. on my car and the belts seemed to squeal no matter how tight it was. So I put a larger pulley on it for more belt grip and the noise was gone. No problems with charging or loss of power.

[Ron]

+1 Bitsy...the rotor and stator get A LOT of heat, which ups their resistance...
Heat doesn't effect the diodes efficiency any to speak of, but it does their life...

SS, Yeah, it all depends on the size of the drive pulley the alternator was intended to be matched with. Many of the (physically) big GM and Ford alternators had medium small pulleys on them from the factory. Some of the high amp GMs had a small pulley, usually double....That is the size you need for the 140 and some of the other 3rd party high amp alternators options. Easy to find in junk yard or order.
It shouldn't have squealed with the right belt/tension since the wrap is way more than most require..??

[refugeefromcalif]

That's a pretty big drop off. The one where you're at 12.5-ish. I'm at 13.78V with highbeams, AC, and idle.

Here's a link to Hervey's ground cable:
http://specialtauto.com/

It's on the front page and about 1/3 the way down. It's a pretty cheap upgrade for $35 (manual) or about $40 for an auto. If you look on the front page, it's $45 for an automatic but if you go to his electrical page, he has it for $5 less. :dunno:

As far as installing Hervey's cable goes, take close note that the original negative ground is DOUBLE NUTTED. You'll have to reach up on the inside of the frame and undo the first nut before you start cranking on the bolt head. The second one is welded to the frame. It'll be :rant: if you snap that bolt off and then try to figure out a way to get it out. Ask Billy in Brooklyn how that went for him.

I'm working on a write-up of my experience with installing Hervey's cable (very easy as long as you take that nut off first) and I'll post it here when I finish it up. I'll see if I can finish it up today. I have a ton of pics on it.

Thanks for the link Alex. I placed my order a few minutes ago. :)
This is my first order from SpecialT so, I'll see how it goes.

I'll say though, his payment setup is Screwy.
I Can't pay with PayPal immediately? I have to wait for them to contact me first? :question:



If you chose to pay by PayPal, we will contact you
regarding the total including shipping charges.

Strange...

George

[Ron]

I'll say though, his payment setup is Screwy.
I Can't pay with PayPal immediately? I have to wait for them to contact me first? :question:

Strange...

IIRC, if you paypal as a gift, you $ave.....

[Bitsyncmaster]

IIRC, if you paypal as a gift, you $ave.....

You save the seller money. There are no fees for the buyer. There is a limit to how many gifts one person can get.

[Ron]

Didn't know about the limit! (Know what it is off hand?)...but I did know how to 'share the wealth' back when I ordered a load of parts... lol

[Bitsyncmaster]

Didn't know about the limit! (Know what it is off hand?)...but I did know how to 'share the wealth' back when I ordered a load of parts... lol

It use to be 3 or 5 a year but I don't see a limit now. Of course if you use a credit card there is a fee to the seller for that. When a buyer uses a credit card the seller pays both the credit card fee and the paypal fee. That's why a lot of sellers don't like paypal.

[Stainless]

Update on my Motorola 90 to 140 alternator install;

After the rain that Didn't last all day, (like the Weather channel said), I decided to tackle my alternator swap.
I got to the point where I had the old one hanging by the wires, (where I could finally See them), and noticed that it didn't look like a Direct swap like I was told by by DMCH.?
After some searching here I started a new thread for HELP! (Mods, you Can close it).

After a Saturday phone call to DMC MW, (And the Very helpful knowledge of Dave S.), I was able to get my Motorola 140 installed!

Thanks for the help and chatting with me Dave! :wave2:


George,

I went to install the new alternator in my car tonight and I bet I ran into the same questions you did and noticed that it's not a direct swap like I thought it was. I searched and can't find the new thread that you referenced above.

The new alternator has a wire coming off of it. The old alternator had a bolt that a wire with a ring connector attached to:
2110521106

I assume that the wire with the ring connector connects to the new wire coming off of the new alternator, but I want to be sure.

[kings1527]

Exactly. Just cut the old connector off of the car wiring and crimp on a new connector that matches the new alternator. I had to do the same thing on mine. And also when I swapped out my replacement oil sending unit (new ones have spade connectors).

[refugeefromcalif]

George,

The new alternator has a wire coming off of it. The old alternator had a bolt that a wire with a ring connector attached to:
2110521106

I assume that the wire with the ring connector connects to the new wire coming off of the new alternator, but I want to be sure.


Exactly. Just cut the old connector off of the car wiring and crimp on a new connector that matches the new alternator. I had to do the same thing on mine. And also when I swapped out my replacement oil sending unit (new ones have spade connectors).

As Alex says, just cut the old wire, strip it, (Make certain you have Good Clean wire showing), and crimp it to the new wire on the alternator.
It's best to use some shrink tubing over the new crimp.

Another thing, before mounting the new alternator, clean and remove any and all rust on the mounting bracket and, where the bracket mounts to the engine. In doing so, you'll be certain it has a good ground.

Once you have it hooked up, please post your meter readings. :)

George