What is the best method to clean the block?

[dallarax19]

I dont want to media blast it with the machined surface and dry ice blasting is $450 USF and finally vapor blasting is very rare. What other methods are there?

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[Delorean Industries]

Blasting is ok if you are planning on custom liners. We do this on all builds so if material heights are changed on the deck surface or liner sealing surface it isn't a big deal. BUT each liner/piston combo is custom fit to that hole.

We ultrasonic clean all of our blocks which leaves a perfect finish on all surfaces. This is not for the faint of heart though. The upkeep of the machinery is maddening and the cost per block is crazy. We only justified it because it is amortized across so many builds.

so the only affordable route is blasting.

[Kenny_Z]

Elbow grease and a scotchbrite?

[Delorean Industries]

The coolant corrosion is next to impossible to remove without chemicals or blasting. Especially when it is caked and baked to the block.

[David T]

There are other alternatives. Depends on what you want to achieve. Most engine shops can Hot-Tank it and that will remove any corrosion and mineral build-up. It will also leave the surface shiny. Depends on what chemicals they use and how long they soak it. You can mechanically clean it using a wire brush or wire wheel. You can have it painted. There is all kinds of blasting. From sand to shells to plastic. Each one leaves a different surface finish and removes certain deposits. Check with your local engine shop. No matter what you use you MUST be ABSOLUTELY SURE you have removed ALL media or you will destroy the engine. You hear all the time some blasting media was missed (like in a valve cover baffle (not on a Delorean)) and it got loose and wiped out the bearings, oil pump, and cylinder walls. Most engine builders are very anal about cleanliness and so should you, especially if you choose to use blasting media.
David Teitelbaum

[Delorean Industries]

Yeah... Hot tanking doesn't touch mineral deposits. At all.

[Kenny_Z]

The coolant corrosion is next to impossible to remove without chemicals or blasting. Especially when it is caked and baked to the block.

Aah, gotcha. The only engine I've ever been that deep into was cast iron. I was thinking it was just stains and scale.

[dallarax19]

Looks like it will have to be done by brute force. I don't believe you can hot tank Aluminum, I believe it attacks the metal, biggest concern would be oil pump cavity pitting the surface etc. My biggest problem is I can't reach down into the crevices on either side of the cylinder with a wire brush detail. I may find some longer dremel brushes at a production supply shop so I will give that ago but my bet I think is to fab up a sanding flap and clean it up as best as possible. I have media blasted many parts for many years and I don't believe I will get the "grit" completely out of the passages even if it is walnut or plastic aggregate. I see this option as high risk and am staying away from it - for me the lesser of the evils is leaving some residual rust that I can't get to. Ultra sonic cleaning really sounds like the way to go but I don't know of anyone doing it around me. I will keep you posted as to what I do. I have asked the European guys their recommendations as well.

[David T]

Looks like it will have to be done by brute force. I don't believe you can hot tank Aluminum, I believe it attacks the metal, biggest concern would be oil pump cavity pitting the surface etc. My biggest problem is I can't reach down into the crevices on either side of the cylinder with a wire brush detail. I may find some longer dremel brushes at a production supply shop so I will give that ago but my bet I think is to fab up a sanding flap and clean it up as best as possible. I have media blasted many parts for many years and I don't believe I will get the "grit" completely out of the passages even if it is walnut or plastic aggregate. I see this option as high risk and am staying away from it - for me the lesser of the evils is leaving some residual rust that I can't get to. Ultra sonic cleaning really sounds like the way to go but I don't know of anyone doing it around me. I will keep you posted as to what I do. I have asked the European guys their recommendations as well.

With the right chemicals, shops hot tank all the time, even aluminum. Even mineral deposits. I agree, blasting is a last resort and then only on the outer surfaces. If you do blast, some places will use baking soda so if any trace remains it won't ruin the motor. If you want to get exotic they also blast with dry ice (CO2). That way there is no trace of any blasting media. Since you are rebuilding the motor some builders will coat the inside of the motor (where the oil goes, not the cooling passages) with Glyptal. Makes it easy to clean and the oil can drip back faster. It also covers any porosities and sand holes so you have no leaks.
David Teitelbaum

[Ron]

Hot tanks are ok with the right chemicals. You just have to go to a shop that uses them and are not stingy with the heat (insist it be spotless before you leave it...).
Sodium blast is ok too (it will dissolve....). I wouldn't even drive a block by a shop that used other medium :deviltail:

[Jimmyvonviggle]

Maybe something like this.


http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=tP8AQofspRY

[dallarax19]

I did not know that was out there, now to find someone who has one around here.

[dallarax19]

I tried several recommendations but did not have luck, acid and base washes but all they did was oxidize the aluminum worse. I found the best process was my old reliable wash with brakleen and a scrubbing the oxidation with wire brushes in a die grinder and dremel tool. That seems to have work the best without media blasting. Here is where I am:

http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g89/dallarax19/DSC01356.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dallarax19/media/DSC01356.jpg.html)

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I think after a wash with aluminum cleaner/prep before painting will get me where I need to be.

[Josh]

Very impressive! Looks like you have alot of time into that block. I hope it turns out nice!

[dallarax19]

As I looked at the wire brush job I kept seeing places I had missed do I decided to give media blasting a go. After setting it up I did not have any success. I used the same plastic media I used to blast my iron block but it did not remove any more scale.

My bead blasting "booth"
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g89/dallarax19/DSC01382.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dallarax19/media/DSC01382.jpg.html)

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Gotta have one of these too
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g89/dallarax19/DSC01385.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dallarax19/media/DSC01385.jpg.html)

In the end I went back to wire brushing and cleaned up the spots I missed. It is clean and ready for paint prep.

Now on to the bits
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So now a new question; what to do with the steel pipe insert into the aluminum casting?
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[dallarax19]

Pictures say 1000 words:

Cleaned up pulley ready for plating
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g89/dallarax19/DSC01406.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dallarax19/media/DSC01406.jpg.html)

Cleaning Fasteners
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I will be getting the fasteners replated in the next couple of weeks.

[Josh]

May I ask why you are not just buying new fasteners?

Also when I sent my stuff off for zinc plating they stressed that I not sandblast it. So I just gave them my grungy parts and they looked like new after.

[dallarax19]

It is $85 for just one part or all parts. For the various brackets and castings it make sense to just do it all. Besides most of the fasteners are M7 in varying lengths - not a common size. I can find them from Fastenal but I would be buying excess quantities. I had to categorize them according to their size and location so why not just clean and replate them. I did the same process for another engine rebuild and it turned out great. http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g89/dallarax19/DSC00808.jpg (http://s54.photobucket.com/user/dallarax19/media/DSC00808.jpg.html)
Although it is not sand blasted. The bits are "tumbled" in a ceramic and then walnut aggregate. The parts I left to be cleaned by the plater were NG so I make sure this time are all very clean. Not sure why your plater did not want you to clean the parts. It is preferred by the local guys in Detroit.

[Josh]

Thank for explaning about the tumbler, I never knew how they worked.

I am well aware of the fasteners required for the engine, I had my engine torn apart and replaced the fasteners with new. I guess i have a decent deal with my fastenal as I can order whatever qty, and the prices are very reasonable. Over 30 years the finish of the bolt is impacted and also its physical properties. This is my reasoning to get new bolts. Also 0 hours were required to refinish the bolts!

That is a good deal for the plating. I believe they have several different strong chemical dips they use for cleaning the parts at the plater I used. I am fine with not cleaning greasy old parts!

[vwdmc16]

Ive used the aqueous parts cleaner at my work for cleaning my parts, It does amazing work too however it will not get off super corroded deposits, and the filth around the liner still needs blasting.




http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/CIMG2294.jpg

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http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/CIMG2356.jpg

[dallarax19]

Looks super clean. I forgot to mention a key point on the replating, I will not replate structural fasteners so I don't have to worry about hydrogen embrittlement. Your plater can bake them to release the hydrogen but I would rather replace them. I replate mainly the fasteners for covers, brackets, or whatever is visible etc. Just another point to consider.

[Josh]

That block does look great Cliff, wow.

Ok that makes sense. I learned a thing or two today!

[jawn101]

Ive used the aqueous parts cleaner at my work for cleaning my parts, It does amazing work too however it will not get off super corroded deposits, and the filth around the liner still needs blasting.




http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/CIMG2294.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/CIMG2357.jpg

http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c396/vwdmc16/dmc/CIMG2356.jpg

Wait... when did you take those pictures? :)

[vwdmc16]

That was way back when I picked up my 3.0 back in fall of '09 I think.