Removing Engine - What am I forgetting?

[uhhair]

Ok, so I am about to remove the blown engine in my car. I plan on removing both the engine and the transmission together, as both need to come out anyways. My question here concerns what I need to further disconnect in order to remove both of these. I have the rear fascia and fiberglass wall removed, as well as most of the electrical connections, fuel lines, ect. I know that I need to disconnect the axles from the transmission, as well as both engine mounts and transmission mounts. I also have to disconnect the shift linkage and clutch line. Is there anything else that I am forgetting. I want to be sure I have all my ducks in a row to ensure a seamless removal of the engine/tranny since my engine hoist is on loan and I would like to be as time-efficient as possible. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

[opethmike]

It is critically important that you disconnect the Johnson rod before removing the engine mounts.

[uhhair]

What is the Johnson rod? (My twin is an idiot)

[Josh]

Dont forget to remove the compressor lines or the whole compressor itself. I forgot about this, haha. For the shift linkage there are two things to disconnect. The actual linkage and the cross gate cable. The entire muffler and brackets should also be removed; the manifolds, intermediate pipe, and cat can stay on the engine.The last things to remove are the bolts in the motor mounts and the transmission mounts. Do the trans mounts last, and make sure the trans is supported by a jack and stand. Then, hook up the crane to the 4 nifty lifting lugs and slowly start jacking up the crane. Dont go too fast, do a couple pumps and recheck everything. Having a knowledgeable helper to keep an eye on everything makes the job much easier!

[uhhair]

Excellent, yeah I didn't even think about those compressor lines. I do have the muffler and brackets removed already, forgot to mention that. I can also leave the starter in place yes?

[opethmike]

If your AC is still good and you don't want to lose the gas, you don't have to disconnect the lines. You can unbolt the compressor and tug it out of the way in the corner of the engine bay.

[deloumis]

Excellent, yeah I didn't even think about those compressor lines. I do have the muffler and brackets removed already, forgot to mention that. I can also leave the starter in place yes?

Yes just dissconnect the power cable and wires

[uhhair]

Oh I'm sure it's bad, the car has been stored in a garage since 1989. Not too concerned about the AC at this point haha!

[Josh]

Yeah there are three wires going to the starter to disconnect. The starter can stay bolted in as it is. My a/c was depleted as well (an im using a different compressor with the new motor) so I just disconnected the lines. That is important to note that if you have a good working, fully charged system, leave it be and remove the compressor as a whole and zip tie it to the side.

[WelmoedJ]

How about the coolant hoses.
Don't forget about the connections between Lambda sensor and distributor pickup coil (both left hand side of the engine)?

If you have an auto tranny: disconnect the wiring to the GC at the firewall and/or tranny.
In case you have a manual tranny: Disconnect the clutch line on top of the tranny.

Disconnect the emergency brake cable that has a mount at the bottom of the tranny.
Get the cable out of the way (by either disconnecting at the handle or at the right hand side wheel).
Disconnect the wiring to the reverse light switch at the tranny.

Disconnect the engine bay wire loom connections either at the sockets near the coil, or all the plugs of this loom at the engine (also underneath the intake manifold: temp sensor, idle temp sensor etc) which ever is easier.
Don't forget the starter motor and alternator wiring and the coil to distributor wire!

[uhhair]

Excellent advice! Seems I have a few more electrical connections to check. Pretty sure I got most of them but I am definitely going to double check. I did make sure to disconnect the clutch like and all the cooling hoses already.

[Rich]

Throttle cable.

Heater valve vac hose.

Good that you're double-checking.

[DMCMW Dave]

Throttle cable.

Heater valve vac hose.

Good that you're double-checking.

Yeah - there is nothing quite like trying to lift the whole car by the one ground wire you forgot.

If it hasn't been mentioned - clearances are better if you take out the shock tower bar.

[uhhair]

Hey guys just wanted to say thanks for all the help! Where is the heater valve vacuum hose located?

[DMCMW Dave]

Hey guys just wanted to say thanks for all the help! Where is the heater valve vacuum hose located?

It's attached to the heater valve. ;)

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It comes out of the left pontoon toward the front of the car. Small black plastic tube about 3/16 diameter.

[David T]

It's attached to the heater valve. ;)

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It comes out of the left pontoon toward the front of the car. Small black plastic tube about 3/16 diameter.


No matter how through you are, when you start to lift the motor out you ALWAYS do it in small increments. Couple of reasons. To make sure nothing is interfering, you got ALL of the bolts out, AND YOU DISCONNECTED EVERY WIRE, HOSE, CABLE, LINK, pipe, ETC!!!!! Even experienced mechanics overlook something. Another great tip is when you put it back and you try to start the car, if you smell burning plastic, you forgot to hook up the ground cable and you just melted the throttle cable aka *temporary ground*. You will not be the first person to make these mistakes. Should have a couple of assistants watch so they can stop you before you damage things as you lift the motor out. The more eyes on the job the better. Cover the car with blankets or fender covers. Good idea to drain the oil out of the motor and transmission so if you tilt it you don't make a mess. You will want to put fresh stuff in anyway later.
David Teitelbaum

[uhhair]

David, you are entirely correct! I do have 3 other people assisting me and we will definitely go slowly. The engine is already drained of all fluids and ready to go. I have also disconnected and removed the fuel system, water pump, and accessories so there shouldn't be much else that hasn't been previously mentioned to look out for as far as disconnecting. As for the installation, we will cross that bridge when we get there but I think I may seek professional help for that part since reassembly is much more difficult than removal. Thanks for your help!

[Rich]

It's attached to the heater valve.

It comes out of the left pontoon toward the front of the car. Small black plastic tube about 3/16 diameter.

And if you haven't yet found it yet the heater valve is to the right of the distributor, kind of behind the passenger-side cylinder bank. Has thick black coolant hoses on either end and a metal dashpot/diaphagm housing off to one side.