PDA

View Full Version : Engine Cleaning the vod and distrib/cap questions



THVGJP
07-31-2013, 04:12 PM
Planning on cleaning my VOd with the dremmel tool , whats the best solvent to use to bust up crud/rust while I am doing this. I also replaced my dist cap with the Hervey model (Bosh?) I am not certain I have it on correctly, I don't want timing issues, what is the correct numerical order on the cap ( I think I may have installed it upside down , my rotor was at the 1 oclock position. Also how much coolant will I loose when I remove the y-pipe, should I drain some out from the radiator prior to removing the y-pipe?
Thanks
Glen

DavidProehl
07-31-2013, 05:18 PM
Did your distributor cap not seem to fit properly or why do you ask if it isn't on correctly? You shouldn't have issues if the wires are running to the plugs in the right order, below is an image of firing order for reference. If you make a mistake with the plug order, your car will run rough and your cat will glow red from the unburned gas dumped in it. You'll know quickly, and before anything is damaged.

20895


I wouldn't worry about draining your coolant before removing the y-pipe, though there is no harm in it. You'll be cleaning it all out anyway. As for cleaning tools, I used a wire brush dremmel attachment on my VOD, seemed to work fine but because it was so small it took forever to make progress. I also bought the "flex shaft" attachment so I could get down into the wells easier.

THVGJP
07-31-2013, 06:42 PM
Did your distributor cap not seem to fit properly or why do you ask if it isn't on correctly? You shouldn't have issues if the wires are running to the plugs in the right order, below is an image of firing order for reference. If you make a mistake with the plug order, your car will run rough and your cat will glow red from the unburned gas dumped in it. You'll know quickly, and before anything is damaged.

20895


I wouldn't worry about draining your coolant before removing the y-pipe, though there is no harm in it. You'll be cleaning it all out anyway. As for cleaning tools, I used a wire brush dremmel attachment on my VOD, seemed to work fine but because it was so small it took forever to make progress. I also bought the "flex shaft" attachment so I could get down into the wells easier.

No I got the wires to the plugs on the cap correct and into the correct plug holes. Seeing there are 2 tabs for the clips to lock onto, I was worried about putting it on wrong, and theoretically there can be 2 (180 degree) possibilities for attatchment, not sure if this would screw up firing order or not, as rotor goes clockwise, theoretically the I am assuming firing order can be messed up if its not on the correct orientation .
glen

kings1527
07-31-2013, 06:55 PM
I ran into the same problem when I did my VOD cleaning. I ended up putting the distributor cap on upside down and obviously it caused issues. It's very easy to accidentally do. As far as correct cap placement and a multitude of other things, I detailed it here:

http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2012/11/replacing-spark-plugs-spark-plug-wires.html

Keep in mind, on that initial one I actually put it on upside down. Here's another link to how I troubleshot it:

http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2012/12/putting-it-all-back-together-and.html

THVGJP
07-31-2013, 08:37 PM
I ran into the same problem when I did my VOD cleaning. I ended up putting the distributor cap on upside down and obviously it caused issues. It's very easy to accidentally do. As far as correct cap placement and a multitude of other things, I detailed it here:

http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2012/11/replacing-spark-plugs-spark-plug-wires.html

Keep in mind, on that initial one I actually put it on upside down. Here's another link to how I troubleshot it:

http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.com/2012/12/putting-it-all-back-together-and.htmlAlex, I used your blog posts as a reference when removing the intake manual... extremely well written and I will continue to use your blog as a reference,
When you did yours did you notice the fuel lines at the injectors were not tight, I mean the lines move right to left freely? I assume this is normal to take into account engine tourquing , one wouldn't want them installed firmly and frozen in place would they?
Glen

kings1527
07-31-2013, 09:08 PM
Thanks for the compliments, Glen. I appreciate it a lot.

The connection where you have the copper crush gaskets shouldn't move at all. However, the injectors are able to 'wiggle' around a little bit within the injector seals. The injector seal only hugs the injector and of course the clip holds everything in place. But I know what you're talking about. It doesn't feel right. But as long as the actual fuel line/banjo bolt connection is tight and the injector clip gives a firm hold, you should be fine.

THVGJP
08-01-2013, 12:01 AM
No, the fuel line/banjo joint moves. Banjo joind moves 180 degrees around bolt, I guess that's not good and I ought to torque to 7 ft/lbs correct?

kings1527
08-01-2013, 12:33 AM
No, the fuel line/banjo joint moves. Banjo joind moves 180 degrees around bolt, I guess that's not good and I ought to torque to 7 ft/lbs correct?

Interesting. I went from the factory banjos to the DMC CA stainless banjos (which don't move one bit) but I don't remember the factory banjos moving at all on the fuel lines. Yes, I'd definitely torque to 7 ft/lbs and reassess. I'm thinking you have a little bit more torque to go. After I put everything back together and started the car, the first place I checked was right at the distributor and fuel lines to make sure there were no leaks.

THVGJP
08-01-2013, 09:38 AM
Interesting. I went from the factory banjos to the DMC CA stainless banjos (which don't move one bit) but I don't remember the factory banjos moving at all on the fuel lines. Yes, I'd definitely torque to 7 ft/lbs and reassess. I'm thinking you have a little bit more torque to go. After I put everything back together and started the car, the first place I checked was right at the distributor and fuel lines to make sure there were no leaks.

And hopefully had a fire extinguisher handy,

Ron
08-01-2013, 10:00 AM
No I got the wires to the plugs on the cap correct and into the correct plug holes. Seeing there are 2 tabs for the clips to lock onto, I was worried about putting it on wrong, and theoretically there can be 2 (180 degree) possibilities for attatchment There is also a notch in the distributor and dustshield with a matching "tab" on the cap.
You can barely see them at ~2 O'Clock peeking from behind the clip in pic HERE on the distributor (http://store.delorean.com/p-6832-ignition-distributor-assy.aspx) , and #4 HERE on the Dustshield (http://store.delorean.com/c-279-3-4-0-distributor.aspx). Align these and you are good to go (if the distributor has not been removed).

kings1527
08-01-2013, 11:00 AM
And hopefully had a fire extinguisher handy,

But of course! And for engine stuff, hopefully people out there are using a CO2 or the like 'BC' rated extinguisher so if you do have to use it, your engine compartment won't look like a powdered doughnut afterwards.

I can only imagine the jokes if someone sees a DeLorean with powder all over it.

jmettee
08-01-2013, 11:45 AM
I would plan to pull the plugs on boths sides of the block to drain the coolant before pulling the Y pipe. It will dump quite a bit of coolant into your "V" & as you likely know, coolant doesn't just evaporate like water. I had a heck of a time cleaning my "V" after all the dry dust suddenly became mud/sludge when the coolant hit it.

FYI, the copper washers used on the coolant plugs are the same as the oil pan drain plug.

David T
08-01-2013, 12:31 PM
I would plan to pull the plugs on boths sides of the block to drain the coolant before pulling the Y pipe. It will dump quite a bit of coolant into your "V" & as you likely know, coolant doesn't just evaporate like water. I had a heck of a time cleaning my "V" after all the dry dust suddenly became mud/sludge when the coolant hit it.

FYI, the copper washers used on the coolant plugs are the same as the oil pan drain plug.

Use a wet/dry vac and duct-tape a short length of small hose to it and you can suck much of the liquid and dirt out. I dislike messing with those plugs on the sides, they may leak after you disturb them. Only take them out if the cooling system is full of crud and you have to poke around inside to get it out. Cleaning the top of the motor IS a messy job.
David Teitelbaum