My melted Fan Fail Relay

[Steven]

2094320944

Anybody know where I can buy a blue relay receptacle? I see in the D store there is a black one listed (part 100144) or does the color really matter anyway?

[Chris 16409]

2094320944

Anybody know where I can buy a blue relay receptacle? I see in the D store there is a black one listed (part 100144) or does the color really matter anyway?

The color doesn't matter. It was just color coated to match the original blue fan fail relay. To be honest, you don't really need the relay socket. You can just splice the appropriate wires together. That's how my car was when I got it. I wonder why you had the melt down in the fist place? Maybe your fans are drawing too much current?

[DCUK Martin]

It was molded blue plastic, and I have some new ones.

Dirty connections build up resistance and generate heat.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Is that a blue "squeze type splice"? That common wire is carrying 30 amps with OEM fans. All connections and crimps with that current really have to be very good or heat will result.

[Ron]

Yep, 3M Scotchlok, AKA "the problem"...

When you go back, use an uninsulated (or peel it off) crimp type union and solder it. Then shrink wrap...

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yep, 3M Scotchlok, AKA "the problem"...

When you go back, use an uninsulated (or peel it off) crimp type union and solder it. Then shrink wrap...

+1

The open barrel type crimps seem pretty reliable but those insulated crimps I don't trust with high current circuits.

[Jonathan]

Hi Steven,

From your photo of the socket as it currently sits, may I ask what is the black wire that looks to be terminated into the upper middle spot on that socket? Is that a ground of some kind?

The reason I ask is because I don't recall my car or others I have seen with a ground wire there. My fan fail fused link is connected to the "left and right" spots and the lower middle if you know what I mean. But there isn't anything in the upper one as there is in your photo.

I don't really know a ton of the electrical stuff, but just wanted to mention it in case you or someone else (Ron, Dave, Martin, Chris?) might think that could also be causing issues.

My fuse and relay area looks like this for comparison (picture is a couple years old, but still looks about the same).

20946

[Steven]

Yeah I'm not too keen with all this electrical stuff but this is where that black wire goes.

20948

I just received Dave's fan relay the other day. Dave, what exact sockets do I place the "fused jumpers in the blue fan fail socket"?

[Chris 16409]

Yeah I'm not too keen with all this electrical stuff but this is where that black wire goes.

That black wire is not original because of the printing on the sheath. All of the original DeLorean Wiring had no printing on it. Also, I would ditch the fused link and go with Dave's fan fail relay as well. You might as well get it since you already have the standard fan relay.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Yeah I'm not too keen with all this electrical stuff but this is where that black wire goes.

20948

I just received Dave's fan relay the other day. Dave, what exact sockets do I place the "fused jumpers in the blue fan fail socket"?

You had the fused jumpers in the correct pins but now you probably need some new pins. At least that one melted one. I ship a jumper with the fan fail for that pin to bypass the circuit breaker. I ship it with the fan fail because it has fuses and sometimes the fan fail jumpers are not fused. I can ship you that jumper but you probably need a new socket.

You should pull that front bank of relays up, get a new socket, put in my jumper (goes to that pin to the fan relay pin). Then the other fan fail pins should be moved to the new socket. Of course you will need my fan fail unit or a new set of jumpers.

I just finished up 10 fan fails but waiting on a lable maker to mark the revision. That lable maker should arrive next week.

[DMC5180]

I just finished up 10 fan fails but waiting on a lable maker to mark the revision. That lable maker should arrive next week.

Revision? What's different about it vs previous units?

STEVEN,

If you don't get Dave's Fan Fail unit, you WILL need to pull up the front of relays and check the Wire from the melted terminal for heat damage and discoloration. It would not be uncommon to have too replace a foot of the wire from the terminal. The heat damaged wire ,if not replaced, will likely cause further problems due to high resistance. You will want to make sure you splice into bright shinny copper when you do the splice ( soldering is best) or a solder sleeve (heat shrink) splice connector.

[Steven]

Thanks for all the advice everyone!

The wires were all ok and nothing else was melted, phew!

Installed Dave's solid state fan fail and fan relay, everything works perfectly! :cool1:

[Rich W]

21080

Just pulled this out of a local DMC club member's DeLorean recently.

May have been upgraded or replaced once before over 15 years ago,
but this one has seen regular use over the past 15 years or so.

[Bitsyncmaster]

21080

Just pulled this out of a local DMC club member's DeLorean recently.

May have been upgraded or replaced once before over 15 years ago,
but this one has seen regular use over the past 15 years or so.

Thats about what my LockZilla looked like when I removed mine.

[mburshtain]

Greetings everyone!
I noticed my fan fail relay started to melt... I installed a new fused wire linked and bought a NOS (blue) plastic relay socket. (part number 100144)
To make sure I'm doing it right, I would like to replace the female terminal pins. My questions are -
1. Which one should I get? I believe it needs to be similar to the original in order to fit the relay socket.
2. Should I solder it as well? maybe I should get an insulated cord pin.

I really appreciate any help you can provide.

[mburshtain]

Greetings everyone!
I noticed my fan fail relay started to melt... I installed a new fused wire linked and bought a NOS (blue) plastic relay socket. (part number 100144)
To make sure I'm doing it right, I would like to replace the female terminal pins. My questions are -
1. Which one should I get? I believe it needs to be similar to the original in order to fit the relay socket.
2. Should I solder it as well? maybe I should get an insulated cord pin.

I really appreciate any help you can provide.

Here are pictures of the original pin which obviously fits perfectly in the socket.
4921349214

[Bitsyncmaster]

Here are pictures of the original pin which obviously fits perfectly in the socket.
4921349214

These are terminals I use for 18 to 14 AWG wire.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/42100-2-CUT-STRIP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerhNWky0D%2fCp8GtickCOpP0c% 3d

These are for 16 to 12 AWG wire.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/60253-2-CUT-STRIP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerhNWky0D%2fCp8jIUdODzGdR8% 3d

If you use wire size outside the range of the terminal then you should solder the crimps. Not necessary to solder with the proper size and proper crimp.

[mburshtain]

These are terminals I use for 18 to 14 AWG wire.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/42100-2-CUT-STRIP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerhNWky0D%2fCp8GtickCOpP0c% 3d

These are for 16 to 12 AWG wire.

http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity-AMP/60253-2-CUT-STRIP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvz8LftK4jerhNWky0D%2fCp8jIUdODzGdR8% 3d

If you use wire size outside the range of the terminal then you should solder the crimps. Not necessary to solder with the proper size and proper crimp.

Great, thank you so much!!

[Andrew]

It's not blue, but if you are looking for a relay connector a Dorman 85170 works. I am using the same connector for my headlight switch mod, plus I keep an extra in my cubby just in case.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=262255&cc=1288212&jsn=433

[mburshtain]

It's not blue, but if you are looking for a relay connector a Dorman 85170 works. I am using the same connector for my headlight switch mod, plus I keep an extra in my cubby just in case.

https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=262255&cc=1288212&jsn=433

Thank you Andrew,
You're right, it does cost less to replace it with the DORMAN 85170 ($11.01) but not a lot more... Part #100144 cost $20.95 and you can still get the correct color. :-)

[BABIS]

perfect replacement fot the original relay sockets: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Black-Relay-Base-Holder-and-Mount-5-Terminals-Suitable-for-4-5-Pin-Relays-/140938481502?hash=item20d0968f5e:g:t10AAOSwofxUded Q