How do you remove the dustsheld on the rear hub?

[Jeff K]

I'm replacing one of my rear hubs. I though it came with a new dustshield, apparently not.

How do I get that part off? Do I need to put it on?

This is the part
http://store.delorean.com/p-8715-dustshield.aspx

Thanks
Jeff

[Delorean Industries]

I'm replacing one of my rear hubs. I though it came with a new dustshield, apparently not.

How do I get that part off? Do I need to put it on?

This is the part
http://store.delorean.com/p-8715-dustshield.aspx

Thanks
Jeff

This is very important as it keeps contamination out of the bearing area. Especially metallic brake debris etc. This is removed by carefully heating it and it will drop off.

[Jeff K]

This is very important as it keeps contamination out of the bearing area. Especially metallic brake debris etc. This is removed by carefully heating it and it will drop off.

Thanks Josh! Makes sense, keep debris out of the bearing.

Can I use an oven to heat it up? I did that with my hub carriers when I dropped in the bearing. It worked fine for that.

[Delorean Industries]

Thanks Josh! Makes sense, keep debris out of the bearing.

Can I use an oven to heat it up? I did that with my hub carriers when I dropped in the bearing. It worked fine for that.


The ring needs to be heated separate from the hub as to cause it to expand and fall off.

[Jeff K]

The ring needs to be heated separate from the hub as to cause it to expand and fall off.

Ok .. thanks again Josh. I have a local shop that does pressing and services like that. I'll have them do it tomorrow.

[Jeff K]

Ok.. the plot thickens.

I was replacing the rear hub because it's out of true. The wheel wobbles. New bearing on the rear carrier.

Check out this pic.
21427

At first I though it was some powder coating that got on the splines and was being pushed out. It appears to be metal.

Maye the the hub was not seating all the way on the axel. The axel appears to be heat treated hardened steel, I can't imagine the splines are bad unless the PO had an accident.

I have a new hub, but I don't want to install it and ruins the splines too.

Also, how much force should I need to put the hub on? Should it slide on or need to be pressed on?

Thanks
Jeff

[DMCMW Dave]

Ok.. the plot thickens.

I was replacing the rear hub because it's out of true. The wheel wobbles. New bearing on the rear carrier.

Check out this pic.

At first I though it was some powder coating that got on the splines and was being pushed out. It appears to be metal.

Maye the the hub was not seating all the way on the axel. The axel appears to be heat treated hardened steel, I can't imagine the splines are bad unless the PO had an accident.

I have a new hub, but I don't want to install it and ruins the splines too.

Also, how much force should I need to put the hub on? Should it slide on or need to be pressed on?

Thanks
Jeff

Looks like anti-seize compound to me. Any chance of that?

[Jeff K]

Looks like anti-seize compound to me. Any chance of that?

I used a metal pic.. It seems like metal. Like the splines on the hub got reamed out. About 1/4 of the splines, the rest are fine. I'm at work, I'm going home to check the splines on the axle.

[Mark D]

I wonder if that could have happened because the large hub nut was not torqued properly?

As far as the amount of force to install the hub on the axle shaft... When I did mine I used a press but I'm pretty sure that was because I had zinc plated the hubs and there was a slight interference fit. The additional thickness of the zinc coating made it harder to install. The press didn't require much force to push it on though. I probably could have used a mallet to tap it in place. When torquing the hub nut on the axle that will pull everything together nice and tight.

To torque the rear hub nuts I tightened them as much possible with the suspension hanging and the parking brake locked. Then I popped the center cap out of the wheels, bolted the wheels on, lowered the car, chocked the wheels and tighted with a 3ft breaker bar. Credit to Dave at DMCMW for the tip.

[Josh]

The new hub should slide onto the splines of the axle by hand.

It is important this nut is correctly torqued to preload the bearing. You need a big wrench... 270 lb ft.

[Jeff K]

The new hub should slide onto the splines of the axle by hand.

It is important this nut is correctly torqued to preload the bearing. You need a big wrench... 270 lb ft.

The new hub will not go on by hand, not even close. Do I have to file the splines a bit on the axel? Or is it new Axel time? (uugghh)

[DMCMW Dave]

The new hub will not go on by hand, not even close. Do I have to file the splines a bit on the axel? Or is it new Axel time? (uugghh)

We have seen two cars where the splines stripped on the stub axle. Interesting symptom, you'd swear that you lost the clutch completely as the axle spins without rotating the hub and tire, so the car won't move at all. Typically what is left of the splines is very rusty when this happens. If the splines seem to have deteriorated or are deformed, you should replace the axle and bearing. It should go together easily with the hub, no force needed.

[Delorean Industries]

New hub time Jeff. I had this happen on an auto barn find I purchased a few weeks ago. Cleaned out the fuel system, put it in gear. (terrible noise)

[Josh]

Yeah sounds like time for some new parts :( If you have to remove material or use excessive force to make the hub slide onto the axle something is wrong. I know James has an axle and hub he would sell you (I pressed it out of the rear carrier I bought from him) that is in perfect functioning shape. He is the gentleman parting out the car in the for sale section.

[Jeff K]

Ok, my new hub came in from DMC.

I checked the splines on the axel. They look fine. I took a small triangle file and filed the ends a bit at the outboard end, they were a tad reamed out at the end. I basically cleaned the grooves a bit (not sure of the correct terminology to describe that)

I put the new one on. I went half way, they I used my air gun and blasted it on.

Worked perfect! Everything is fine now. Spins perfectly true.

I used my snap on torque wrench, it goes to 250, so I pushed a bit more to reach an approximate 270.

Thanks for all the input. Car drives great!

Jeff
PS - of course during my test drive, I think the blower circuit breaker fried... ahh DeLorean ownership!