Headlight Swtich - get new DMCH one or "saver"?

[DL4567]

If my original headlight switch is working fine, would you guys add a "switch saver" like Toby's or replace it entirely with the new DMCH unit? I remember the DMCH one had problems when it first came out.... are those all sorted now? Also, the saver is about $15 vs. $90 for the new switch - quite a difference.

I'm used to the 3 clicks of the original switch, and realize the DMCH one no longer works that way. Any disadvantage to either setup?

[Ron]

Switch saver? link?

Last I knew they resolved the problems with the new switch by saying don't use the auto off function. BUT, I read where rewiring the appropriate wires directly to the battery would resolve the issue(s), unofficially. I have one on my D and never had the lights fail, but it is not my DD...
(btw it is 3 clicks either way).

[DL4567]

Switch saver links:

Toby's:
http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K3003DP&Category_Code=9450

Hervey's:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html (scroll 1/3 down page)

[WelmoedJ]

Why buy a new switch if the current (=rriginal) one seems to be in good working order.
Like others mentioned, get yourself the Toby solution.
Cheaper and no problems.
Save your money for the more important parts that fail on you at some time.

I have one with the factory switch and I like the combination.

[bunni]

I would recommend against Hervey's simply because of those god-awful quick splice connectors (I have no idea whats in Toby's kit, but I can't imagine its much different). If you have the tools to do a proper splice then get one of the kits and forego the quick splices. This is on my long to-do list once my car is running again -_-

[Ron]

All I will say is read the ads carefully....

Look at the schematic below-
Red = Hot all times.
Blue= Main Beam Power.
Green= Dip Beam Power.
Pink= Main Beam Relay Trigger.
Yellow= Dip Beam Relay Trigger.

Power to the headlamps does not go through any switch -- They go throught the two dedicated relays. If there is "high current flow" going through the light switch, it is from the other lamps (problems).


21432

$.02 -- It can reduce the wear on the contacts but IMHO, save your money (put it in savings for 30+ years...).

[Bikercmbc]

I've put Hervey's in 2 of my cars, but did not use the quick splice connectors. I soldered mine in so I would not have any issues. ran the ground to the steering column. easy fix didnt take hardly anytime to install. will be keeping my original switch forever.

[Josh]

You can purchase hervey's "headlight switch saver" at any automotive store. Its just a 30A 12v relay with a plug.

[Tillsy]

If my original headlight switch is working fine, would you guys add a "switch saver" like Toby's or replace it entirely with the new DMCH unit?

I've just finished inventing my own third option...

1. Replaced my (working) headlight switch with a hazard switch
2. Rewired accordingly (the normally open contacts are slightly different between the hazard and headlight switches)
3. Rewired feed for headlights to accessory circuit
4. Offloaded park/perimeter lights to a relay
5. Wired park relay to trigger off the ignition

Thus my park lights now turn on automatically when my car is running and turn off when not (I like to have them on at all times for safety reasons but often walk back to my D and realise I have accidentally left them on), my headlights automatically turn off if left on when key removed, and since my park lights are automatic now my headlight switch only needs a single click to turn on and off (hence using a hazard switch).

[Bitsyncmaster]

Your parking lights would draw 5 or 6 amps with OEM bulbs. That current did go through the switch. The switch saver removes that current. But I've just replaced the parking lights with LEDs so current throught the switch is far less. Therefor I don't see the need to have that switch saver in my car.

[DL4567]

Thanks for the responses! I think it's agreed the orange running/parking/side-marker lights are what cause headlight switches to melt, not the headlights themselves, since those already have dedicated relays. While replacing all the orange lights with LEDs would also solve the high current-flow problem, that's more involved than I want to get at this point. If many of you have had good success with the switch savers, I think I'm gonna get one of Toby's then.

[Starglider]

I soldered in a relay despite having replaced all my lights with LEDs. There's always the possibility of a short spot-welding the contacts before the fuse can blow, plus I have trailer electrics on my DMC-12 which can draw significant extra amps through the running lights circuit.