Bleedinng brake and clutch lines

[sweetp01569]

My fluid is about 2 years old now, and instead of a mechanic changing the fluid, I'd like to do myself. I ordered a pressure bleeder. Will it work on the clutch reservoir, too? Also, what is the procedure (perhaps the bleeder will come with instructions)? Do I remove most of the old fluid from reservoirs or push it through the systems as I bleed them. If I need to remove, how do I do that - some sort of pump?

Once I pressurize the brake reservoir, do I simply bleed at each wheel in order per the manual until clean new fluid is visible? Do I need to pump brake pedal if I am using pressure bleeder? Also, I saw a comment about using a block of wood under brake pedal to prevent that going to the floor and possible damaging the master brake cylinder.

If used on the clutch line, do I simply pressurize and just let the fluid flow out of the slave bleeder valve until clean fluid is seen?

Thanks!

Paul
Vin 10944

[WelmoedJ]

My fluid is about 2 years old now, and instead of a mechanic changing the fluid, I'd like to do myself. I ordered a pressure bleeder.
Will it work on the clutch reservoir, too?
Depend on what pressure bleeder and adapters you bought.
I have the Motiv version for most US cars and I have an adapter that is suitable for the D's brake reservoir.


Also, what is the procedure (perhaps the bleeder will come with instructions)?
Most models come with instructions how to connect and use.


Do I remove most of the old fluid from reservoirs or push it through the systems as I bleed them. If I need to remove, how do I do that - some sort of pump?

The pressure in the system will take care of pushing the old fluids out.


Once I pressurize the brake reservoir, do I simply bleed at each wheel in order per the manual until clean new fluid is visible?
Yes.


Do I need to pump brake pedal if I am using pressure bleeder? Also, I saw a comment about using a block of wood under brake pedal to prevent that going to the floor and possible damaging the master brake cylinder.
If you use a pressure bleeder, you don't need to touch the brake pedal. That's the advantage of the system. No second person or block needed.



If used on the clutch line, do I simply pressurize and just let the fluid flow out of the slave bleeder valve until clean fluid is seen?
Paul
Vin 10944
The cap of the clutch reservoir is a plastic screw-on type. I haven't found an adapter that fits the D's clutch reservoir, but it may be available out there.
You can do the clutch bleeding with help of somebody else.
Only a couple of pushes on the clutch pedal to build pressure, then keep the pedal down, then opening the nipple at the slave and quickly close it.
Repeat this until no air comes out of the nipple.

You may want to use a clear plastic hose over the nipple and put the other end in a jar with old fluid.
This prevents air moving back into the clutch line when closing the nipple.

[Mark D]

EDIT: Looks like Welmoed beat me to the punch, but here is what I wrote anyway.


My fluid is about 2 years old now, and instead of a mechanic changing the fluid, I'd like to do myself. I ordered a pressure bleeder. Will it work on the clutch reservoir, too?

Yes, but your bleeder kit will most likely not have an adapter to fit the clutch reservoir bottle so you will need to make one.... I used a simple cone shaped rubber stopper with a hole thru the center with a brass barb fitting and wedged it into the bottle.


Also, what is the procedure (perhaps the bleeder will come with instructions)? Do I remove most of the old fluid from reservoirs or push it through the systems as I bleed them. If I need to remove, how do I do that - some sort of pump?
Yes it's a good idea to remove as much fluid as you can from the reservoirs. You can use a turkey baster or a simple hand siphon pump. If it's only been 2 years your old fluid probably isn't too bad so you may not need to empty it out first.


Once I pressurize the brake reservoir, do I simply bleed at each wheel in order per the manual until clean new fluid is visible? Do I need to pump brake pedal if I am using pressure bleeder? Also, I saw a comment about using a block of wood under brake pedal to prevent that going to the floor and possible damaging the master brake cylinder.
You don't have to pump the brakes but it will take a little longer than if you do. Pumping the brakes will speed things up, but just keep a close eye on the reservoir so it doesn't go dry and starts sucking air into the system.

The block of wood suggestion under the pedal is to prevent the piston inside the master cylinder from traveling down the cylinder bore further than it would during normal operation. You may have corrosion and pitting on the cylinder wall in the areas outside of the normal operating range and if you push the piston seals over the rough surface you could possibly damage the seals.


If used on the clutch line, do I simply pressurize and just let the fluid flow out of the slave bleeder valve until clean fluid is seen?
Yes, and if the old fluid looks really dark or has suspended particles in it try to get as much out of the reservoir first and refill with new fluid so you're mostly flushing with fresh fluid. If the fluid looks ok you can just flush the old stuff through. You can pump the pedal here too to speed up the process, but there really isn't much fluid in the line to bleed out to begin with. The line ID's are very small so they don't hold much.

Hope that helps. Good luck, and have fun getting at that clutch bleed screw! I found it's easiest to access from the top passenger side of the engine, but some people prefer going from below. If you're having trouble getting at it from the top removing the lower engine cover (not the louvers) is helpful.

[sweetp01569]

Thanks for the advice from both of you! I have bled those systems before when I first got the car, and yes, that clutch slave is a bear to reach. I found it best to go from underneath and contort my hand with the wrench in it, and do it all by feel. I ordered the bleeder kit from Hervey so I am guessing it will fit the brake reservoir.

Paul


EDIT: Looks like Welmoed beat me to the punch, but here is what I wrote anyway.



Yes, but your bleeder kit will most likely not have an adapter to fit the clutch reservoir bottle so you will need to make one.... I used a simple cone shaped rubber stopper with a hole thru the center with a brass barb fitting and wedged it into the bottle.


Yes it's a good idea to remove as much fluid as you can from the reservoirs. You can use a turkey baster or a simple hand siphon pump. If it's only been 2 years your old fluid probably isn't too bad so you may not need to empty it out first.


You don't have to pump the brakes but it will take a little longer than if you do. Pumping the brakes will speed things up, but just keep a close eye on the reservoir so it doesn't go dry and starts sucking air into the system.

The block of wood suggestion under the pedal is to prevent the piston inside the master cylinder from traveling down the cylinder bore further than it would during normal operation. You may have corrosion and pitting on the cylinder wall in the areas outside of the normal operating range and if you push the piston seals over the rough surface you could possibly damage the seals.


Yes, and if the old fluid looks really dark or has suspended particles in it try to get as much out of the reservoir first and refill with new fluid so you're mostly flushing with fresh fluid. If the fluid looks ok you can just flush the old stuff through. You can pump the pedal here too to speed up the process, but there really isn't much fluid in the line to bleed out to begin with. The line ID's are very small so they don't hold much.

Hope that helps. Good luck, and have fun getting at that clutch bleed screw! I found it's easiest to access from the top passenger side of the engine, but some people prefer going from below. If you're having trouble getting at it from the top removing the lower engine cover (not the louvers) is helpful.

[sweetp01569]

Sorry one more question. I forget if the blake bleeder valves are accessible with tires on the car or not. Do I need to take all four tires off and put car on blocks to bleed the brakes?

Thanks


Thanks for the advice from both of you! I have bled those systems before when I first got the car, and yes, that clutch slave is a bear to reach. I found it best to go from underneath and contort my hand with the wrench in it, and do it all by feel. I ordered the bleeder kit from Hervey so I am guessing it will fit the brake reservoir.

Paul

[Mark D]

The bleed screws on the front brake calipers face inboard so you could probably get to them with the wheels on. It'll be a lot easier with them removed though and you won't risk getting brake fluid on your wheels and destroying the paint/powdercoat.

The rear bleed screws face outboard so you'll need to remove the wheels to get at them.

Probably best to just put the car up on jack stands and remove all four wheels.

[sweetp01569]

Thanks. I will plan on using jack stands then.

Paul


The bleed screws on the front brake calipers face inboard so you could probably get to them with the wheels on. It'll be a lot easier with them removed though and you won't risk getting brake fluid on your wheels and destroying the paint/powdercoat.

The rear bleed screws face outboard so you'll need to remove the wheels to get at them.

Probably best to just put the car up on jack stands and remove all four wheels.