Replacement rear deckboards

[kobachi]

Has anyone (Steve?) made replacement rear deckboards? The (http://store.delorean.com/p-10046-rear-deckboard-lh.aspx) originals (http://store.delorean.com/p-10045-rear-deckboard-rh.aspx) are pretty flimsy plywood painted black. Mine in particular can't be removed without removing the rear bulkhead panel, as my panel sits a bit forward due to the speakers mounted on it. Makes for a real PITA when a fuse blows.

I think replacing these with MDF panels would be a nice improvement, and would likely act to reduce some noise and rattling. Anyone done this? Looks like it would be pretty simple with a table saw using the old panels as a template, but I'm not a very experienced woodworker.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've always thought about new one in foam and colvered with fiberglass. It would drop a few pounds and probably sound insulate better. MDF would probably be more weight than ply wood.

[kobachi]

MDF would probably be more weight than ply wood.

I'm sure it would be, but I'm not looking to make a race car. Would the few extra pounds make a real difference in a daily driver?

[NightFlyer]

A piece of clear plexi would work, allowing you to inspect the relay/fuse compartment without having to remove the panel. Just a thought on the subject...

[kobachi]

A piece of clear plexi would work, allowing you to inspect the relay/fuse compartment without having to remove the panel. Just a thought on the subject...

Well, there's an extra ridge on the bottom, so it's not as simple as a single piece of plexi, but that's an interesting idea. I'm not sure I see the value in being able to inspect the compartments, though. Only time I need access is when I need to replace a fuse.

[dmc6960]

Plexi would not insulate sound worth a damn. Probably don't want that.

I cut a pair of MDF panels for my car. It only came with the drivers side stock plywood. The MDF is a little heavier, but does muffle the sound slightly better. I used my original drivers panel as a template for both sides and they fit decently but not perfectly as I didn't copy the original design 100%. MDF is really easy to cut (but a bit more messy) and its also sold in 2'x2' or 2'x4' pieces if you wanted to buy it while driving your DeLorean.

[andy blackmon]

Funny that this came up today, in the last few days I have been working in on relays, fuses and wiring and when I went to put the plywood back on i thought i must fix this. I repainted it ---did not like what I saw. I put a sheet of plexiglass (cut to fit) over the plywood with spray glue and then I added some carbon fiber film to the top. I cut a few holes to allow for cooling, i am pleased with the looks of this.

[refugeefromcalif]

I put a sheet of plexiglass (cut to fit) over the plywood with spray glue and then I added some carbon fiber film to the top. I cut a few holes to allow for cooling, i am pleased with the looks of this.

Do you have some pictures of this you could post?

George

[kobachi]

and then I added some carbon fiber film to the top.

How many extra HP did that yield? ;)

Also, I'm confused at adding holes for cooling. Isn't there carpet on top?

[andy blackmon]

21527Here is a picture of my new rear deckboard. I had to cut about 1/2 inch of the plywood off because it was forever hanging on the rear panel. I thought that with the plywood and plexiglass too much heat could build up so I drilled a few holes, yes there is a carpet over this area but the carpet is loose and will not hold heat like the solid wood will, well that was the thought behind the holes.

[DMC5180]

Has anyone (Steve?) made replacement rear deckboards? The (http://store.delorean.com/p-10046-rear-deckboard-lh.aspx) originals (http://store.delorean.com/p-10045-rear-deckboard-rh.aspx) are pretty flimsy plywood painted black. Mine in particular can't be removed without removing the rear bulkhead panel, as my panel sits a bit forward due to the speakers mounted on it. Makes for a real PITA when a fuse blows.

I think replacing these with MDF panels would be a nice improvement, and would likely act to reduce some noise and rattling. Anyone done this? Looks like it would be pretty simple with a table saw using the old panels as a template, but I'm not a very experienced woodworker.


This service bulletin addresses the issue. http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-23-10.81.html

[kobachi]

This service bulletin addresses the issue. http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-23-10.81.html

I'm 6248, so I'm sure my boards already have this "mod". My rear panel sits significantly farther forward (an inch, maybe two) from the stock panel.

[DMC5180]

I'm 6248, so I'm sure my boards already have this "mod". My rear panel sits significantly farther forward (an inch, maybe two) from the stock panel.

Do you have Speakers boxed into it? I can't think of any other reason the rear board would stick out that much otherwise. The Indicator for the MOD would be the shallow finger notch.

[kobachi]

Do you have Speakers boxed into it? I can't think of any other reason the rear board would stick out that much otherwise. The Indicator for the MOD would be the shallow finger notch.

Yes, I mentioned before -- my rear panel is a custom made MDF speaker panel, that's the origin of the problem :)

[jamesrguk]

21527Here is a picture of my new rear deckboard. I had to cut about 1/2 inch of the plywood off because it was forever hanging on the rear panel. I thought that with the plywood and plexiglass too much heat could build up so I drilled a few holes, yes there is a carpet over this area but the carpet is loose and will not hold heat like the solid wood will, well that was the thought behind the holes.

That's a very blue interior.... Further pics required

James