Oil Pressure Warning Light comes on when driving through rain

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I had forgot to ask about this...I drove my car through the rain for the first time.
One thing I noticed is the oil pressure light came on after it started raining....when the rain stopped and the road dried out the light would slowly fade back out....when I hit another rain storm it faded back on again.....it never has come back on since that time while driving...

Anyone else experience this? Any ideas on how to create a boot or protect the connection at the oil pressure warning light sender?

Thanks!

Josh Q

[David T]

The wire going to the sender on the rear, left side of the motor is probably "crispy critters". Replace that section with a higher temperature rated wire (THHN) or slide a high temp firesleeve over it.
David Teitelbaum

[DeloreanJoshQ]

So what exactly is happening to cause that phenomenon? What about the sensor itself? Could water be getting into it and causing it to ground?

[Ryan King]

I had forgot to ask about this...I drove my car through the rain for the first time.
One thing I noticed is the oil pressure light came on after it started raining....when the rain stopped and the road dried out the light would slowly fade back out....when I hit another rain storm it faded back on again.....it never has come back on since that time while driving...

Anyone else experience this? Any ideas on how to create a boot or protect the connection at the oil pressure warning light sender?

Thanks!

Josh Q

Mine has done the same thing. I replaced the sensor..still happens when it rains. I'm thinking about replacing the wiring as mentioned and soldering it into the harness.

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I redid the wiring end with a heat shrink connector and also covered the wiring with some nylon sleeving and ran it over top of the connector to protect it more from water.
After driving it through Michigan through downpouring rain it still causes the oil pressure light to slowly fade on and off, but it didn't do for as long as the last time I drove through rain. I dunno....just another quirk I guess....

[content22207]

Catalytic converter actually. It sits right next to the dash light sending unit and barbecues it and the wiring.

Bill Robertson
#5939

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Catalytic converter actually. It sits right next to the dash light sending unit and barbecues it and the wiring.

Bill Robertson
#5939

Correct for stock setup. However, my car has the DPI spec 1 exhaust; there is no cat near the oil pressure light sending unit to cause issues.
Like I said, the wiring is not burnt and I replaced the connector; problem is still there and only during heavy rainfall and really wet roads. Maybe it's not even the sending unit...I am just assuming that since its down under the car where rain can easily get to it...

[David T]

Relabel the light to "Rain Sensor". If you want to get real high tech make it start the wiper!
David Teitelbaum

[DeloreanJoshQ]

Just an update. I have driven several times in the rain and the oil light no longer comes on.
I changed the sending unit because it was seeping oil last fall and haven't seen the light come on since. Hervey also honored his warranty which I greatly appreciate!

Thanks for all of the help!

Josh Q

[DeLorean03]

I just wanted to say thank you for this thread. I had the exact same identical thing happen to me tonight, and now I know the thing to fix. Thank you!

Josh, were there any special tools you needed to get the unit out? I notice how close it is to the block and all - just curious. Any prep or things you did to prepare for this ?

[DeloreanJoshQ]

I just wanted to say thank you for this thread. I had the exact same identical thing happen to me tonight, and now I know the thing to fix. Thank you!

Josh, were there any special tools you needed to get the unit out? I notice how close it is to the block and all - just curious. Any prep or things you did to prepare for this ?

no, very easy in my opinion.

[jawn101]

no, very easy in my opinion.

+1, replacing this sensor is pretty easy. A deep socket is required (forget the exact size though) to fit over the electrical connector. Don't lose the crush washer into the block. Be prepared for some oil to come out, even if the motor is cold and has been sitting. Otherwise, simple :)

[DeLorean03]

Cool - thanks guys!

I got one on the way from DMCMW - should be here early next week. I did find that someone here has a blog on the repair process - the size of the tool needed is "either" a 23MM or a 15/16" socket. I think I do have a 15/16" somewhere. If not, Sears is right down the corner (: ...

[kings1527]

Cool - thanks guys!

I got one on the way from DMCMW - should be here early next week. I did find that someone here has a blog on the repair process - the size of the tool needed is "either" a 23MM or a 15/16" socket. I think I do have a 15/16" somewhere. If not, Sears is right down the corner (: ...

This is EXACTLY the info I was looking for.

But....I'm having trouble with the cat getting in the way. Did you not have this problem with a deep socket? I even tried an elbow and the whole tool contraption was still hitting the cat. :angry4:

[kings1527]

And one other question.

I was under the impression that it was the crush washer/seal that was the problem and causing the leak and not the sensor itself. It other words, the sensor doesn't really 'wear out'. Is that right?

[DMCMW Dave]

And one other question.

I was under the impression that it was the crush washer/seal that was the problem and causing the leak and not the sensor itself. It other words, the sensor doesn't really 'wear out'. Is that right?

No. The center pin of the sensor (where the wire connects) is a plastic feed-thru gasket. Being about an inch from the catalytic converter the heat gets to it. There doesn't seem to be any failure pattern other than that it's a common problem. For some reason the one on my personal (original) car is still original and has never leaked.

[kings1527]

No. The center pin of the sensor (where the wire connects) is a plastic feed-thru gasket. Being about an inch from the catalytic converter the heat gets to it. There doesn't seem to be any failure pattern other than that it's a common problem. For some reason the one on my personal (original) car is still original and has never leaked.

Well that explains a whole lot. Thanks Dave.

I'll get in touch with Julee.

[David T]

Well that explains a whole lot. Thanks Dave.

I'll get in touch with Julee.

If you are willing to spend a little time you can reseal your old one. You have to completely disassemble it, clean it up with alcohol, seal it with silicone sealer and reassemble. Over time the new one will also leak.

[kings1527]

If you are willing to spend a little time you can reseal your old one. You have to completely disassemble it, clean it up with alcohol, seal it with silicone sealer and reassemble. Over time the new one will also leak.

Thanks David. I'm all about preventing something like that from happening next time.

But if I use silicone sealer, won't that melt as well? What sealer out there has a high-temp rating for an application like this?

[David T]

Thanks David. I'm all about preventing something like that from happening next time.

But if I use silicone sealer, won't that melt as well? What sealer out there has a high-temp rating for an application like this?

It doesn't get so hot that regular sealer won't work. I used Permatex blue stuff. Just make sure it says "Sensor Safe". If you want there is also high temp stuff on the same shelf but it is a bit more expensive.

[kings1527]

It doesn't get so hot that regular sealer won't work. I used Permatex blue stuff. Just make sure it says "Sensor Safe". If you want there is also high temp stuff on the same shelf but it is a bit more expensive.

Ok, great. Thanks!

[kings1527]

Anyone have any info on what tool they used to get at it with the cat and asbestos heat shield in place?

[DeLorean03]

Sorry, Alex. Had a modified exhaust from Eddie and those weren't part of it =/.....