Is there some trick to reach the distributor timing adjustment bolt?

[rdarlington]

Hi guys,

I checked my timing tonight and I'm idling between 750 and 775 RPM and am measuring pretty steady at 18 degree advance with the vacuum hose disconnected from the distributor.

I'm also completely lacking any low end torque but otherwise the engine is feels fine. Just no power till I'm over about 2k RPM. I keep thinking she'll stall from a stop on a hill when I'm coming off the clutch. I'm hoping that retarding the timing a bit will help this but I don't have any idea if it will or not.

The bolt holding the distributor down is visible but there is a fuel line running right over it that I can't really get out of the way. After a half an hour trying, I can't seem to get a 10mm socket over it (maybe I'm using the wrong size)? Is there some trick to this? I've used distributor wrenches in the past when the hold down clamp was recessed such that there was no straight shot down, but in this case the bolt is right there and I don't think I would have any luck with one of those either. I just don't think there's enough clearance between the distributor itself and the bolt to get a socket around it. Any advice?

-Bob

[Kenny_Z]

I thought it was 11mm but I'm not sure. Then again I'm pretty sure I replaced that nut during the rebuild. It is definitely a pain to get to but longer wrenches help. Eighteen degrees sounds like too much timing. I think Red is around 13 degrees and it seems to be her sweet spot. As you probably know every engine is different. Good luck with yours.

[rdarlington]

That explains it. It's definitely an 11mm bolt. :-) Thank you! I've got it loosened up and am about to make the adjustment.

[rdarlington]

So no significant change to the low end torque on this ride, but I did dial in the timing to 13 degrees. It was a little scary after I loosened the bolt and wiggled the distributor a little and then tried to start the car. It's very touchy and would not start till I got it back where I started. After the adjustment (obviously while running) I shut off the engine for a few minutes and then it started right back up. The real test will be in the morning when I start it before work.

Thanks again,
Bob

[rdarlington]

The real test will be in the morning when I start it before work.


She started right up. Thanks again.

-Bob - 1982 model, VIN 10904

[TTait]

13 is nominal, but it can go up to 20 (or more?) if you are running performance cams. Steger Cams get set to 20...

[Kenny_Z]

Glad to help. I hope you get the timing dialed in.

[Delorean Industries]

13 is nominal, but it can go up to 20 (or more?) if you are running performance cams. Steger Cams get set to 20...

Set to 17-18 if you want to be able to run anything but premium though. The engine will ping on 87 with the engine that far out.

[jerzybondov]

Setting my timing recently I realised the easiest way to get to the dizzy screw is to pop off the CPR. Just two allen bolts and then you can get an 11mm spanner in to the dizzy screw no probs, whilst the car is running.

Any experience with how many degrees you can advance the timing before pinging on 91 Octane? How much leeway is there?

[David T]

Setting my timing recently I realised the easiest way to get to the dizzy screw is to pop off the CPR. Just two allen bolts and then you can get an 11mm spanner in to the dizzy screw no probs, whilst the car is running.

Any experience with how many degrees you can advance the timing before pinging on 91 Octane? How much leeway is there?

What you are trying for used to be called "Power Tuning". You advance till you hear pinging and then back off a degree or 2. Not a good idea unless you are racing and trying for every little edge you can get. Depending on the tank of fuel (it varies) temperature, humidity, and air pressure you could set it and the next day or the next fill-up you could really be banging. Little to be gained but a LOT to lose. Stay with 13 degrees and you can use 87 octane. BTW, the Owner's Manual says to use 91 octane. I believe that is the R/M Octane #. Not sure how they do it in Europe.

[LordFly]

Sorry to bring up a dead thread, but where is this bolt?! What a pain in the ass spot he distributor is in. Dark, on the far side of the engine, and buried under everything. I'm almost positive my timing it out, but without seeing this bolt, adjusting it is going to be hard. I poked around with a flashlight for about 20 minutes and can't find a damn thing :banghead:

[sdg3205]

Did you already put a timing gun on it? Are you also sure the timing plate is in the proper place?

I think it's an 11mm nut, and there is just enough room to get a wrench in there to loosen it and rotate it slowly.

[LordFly]

No, and no. But so far EVERYTHING the PO has done has been wrong. So I assume the timing is wrong and the timing plate has been moved. Car is gutless (even more gutless than a regular DeLorean) below 3K RPM.

[sdg3205]

Josh taught me a great way to ensure the timing plate is aligned properly, but it involves removing a plug under the water pump, so perhaps finding tdc using another method is better.

I got my gun at princess auto for a damn decent price. $25 maybe? Not bad for peace of mind. Get your hands on a gun first and see if your timing is even off before you throw a wrench on the dizzy. If it looks off at idle and advance, check the timing plate it properly aligned. If it is, adjust the dizzy.

Proper Delorean vendor and tech may want to chime in!

[David T]

Josh taught me a great way to ensure the timing plate is aligned properly, but it involves removing a plug under the water pump, so perhaps finding tdc using another method is better.

I got my gun at princess auto for a damn decent price. $25 maybe? Not bad for peace of mind. Get your hands on a gun first and see if your timing is even off before you throw a wrench on the dizzy. If it looks off at idle and advance, check the timing plate it properly aligned. If it is, adjust the dizzy.

Proper Delorean vendor and tech may want to chime in!

The easiest way to check the timing marks is to pull the spark plug on cylinder #1 and rotate the motor by hand until you get to TDC. Now look at the mark on the pulley in relation to the TDC mark on the scale. It should be very close. The timing doesn't change unless someone messed with it. More important is to check the mechanical and vacuum advance to make sure they are working.

[hmcelraft]

The crank pulley on my DeLorean has 2 marks. I put the timing light pick-up on Cyl 6 and read the timing. Much easier than trying to get to cyl 1.

[Delorean Industries]

The correct method to achieve TDC for #1 on a PRV is removing the square plug (looks like a oil pan plug not the hex for the oil galley) While rotating the engine over you will come across a square broach in the crankshaft counter weight. Here is the catch though. If you are not careful and your crank has a good amount of sludge on it (most prv's at this point do) You can mistak a counter weight removal mark for this. Some cranks have it very close to the square cut. This will cause you to align your plate on the timing cover incorrectly. Plus or minus a few degrees in the wrong direction will leave you scratching your head. Personally I do not drop anything into the hole for the timing adjustment. I rotate it while watching with a pen light and center it with the block hole. Then set the timing cover plate accordingly and you are good to go.