Help with my window, off track, grinding, scraping need help.

[Totally 80s]

I just moved to Colorado and shipped the cars from Hawaii. During the trip the bolt that holds the motor to the door had come out and the window wouldn't go up or down. I reatacched the bolt and it went up and down again but made a clunking scraping noise. I believe that the window is off the track at the front of the car. How do I get the window on the track again? When I roll the window all the way up there is a space on the side and when I roll it all the way down it makes a grinding noise. The bar that has the little snake in it has begun to scratch my tint.

Please help. and see photos.

22170
2217122172

[Totally 80s]

I just moved to Colorado and shipped the cars from Hawaii. During the trip the bolt that holds the motor to the door had come out and the window wouldn't go up or down. I reatacched the bolt and it went up and down again but made a clunking scraping noise. I believe that the window is off the track at the front of the car. How do I get the window on the track again? When I roll the window all the way up there is a space on the side and when I roll it all the way down it makes a grinding noise. The bar that has the little snake in it has begun to scratch my tint.

Please help. and see photos.

22170
2217122172

It is definitely off the track towards the front of the car. I disconnected the arm that holds the window on the motor but I can't seem to get the window guide to go onto the front side guide. Any advice or tricks.

Also, my motor really moves a lot when it goes up and down. Is this normal? It's not supposed to be concretely anchored? It basically has a pivot arm that connects to the door and thats it? You can see it in the first photo.

[john 05141]

It has been a while but when my window was off track I disconnected it completely and took the glass out.
So I could see if the metal rail was still properly attached to the glass. You will have to remove it anyway to replace the teint but see if the glass moves smoothly into the guiding before reattaching. it takes some trimming.
Not all that difficult but tough to reach and an uncomfortable working position. You might want to tape the edges of the Stainless first.
The motor is supposed to be fixed firmly to the door.

Maybe the teint protected the glass and you have no scratches on the glass

Word of advice, nerver play with the windows when the doors are up, this increases the chance of a derailment.

Jan

[Totally 80s]

OK, I got the window back on the track but I have one more problem. It rolls down perfectly but when I roll it up the "worm" inside the regulator keeps going up (and actually comes out about an inch and half from the sleeve), shifting the motor and making a terrible grinding noise. Is there any adjustment that can be done to the "worm" so that it doesn't go up so high? It makes the whole motor shift and loosen the two bolts holding the motor to the door. Is there a way to back the "worm" down so it doesn't go up as high? Any help appreciated.
-Alex

[Totally 80s]

Does anyone know what makes the window motor stop trying to go up? Is there a regulator inside? Mine will keep trying to go up even after the window is at the top.

[DrJeff]

Does anyone know what makes the window motor stop trying to go up? Is there a regulator inside? Mine will keep trying to go up even after the window is at the top.

The motor stops running when you let go of the button on a stock car. Unless you have a regulator somewhere in the circuit, otherwise you probably have a switch that needs cleaned, serviced, or replaced.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

[Totally 80s]

The motor stops running when you let go of the button on a stock car. Unless you have a regulator somewhere in the circuit, otherwise you probably have a switch that needs cleaned, serviced, or replaced.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk 4

Nah switch is workin. I'm sayin the regulator keeps tryin to go up after the window has hit the edge. The worm inside the channel keeps comin up makin a terrible noise.

[Totally 80s]

I want to make it clear as to what is happening. When I push the switch and hold it down the window goes up but the motor won't stop trying to go up once it has hit the top of the glass. I can stop it by not pressing the switch but it never did this before. I pulled apart the driver side and it is working perfectly, stopping when it gets to the top.

There is no stop adjustment on the outside of the motor so its a regulator inside. Did mine break? How much does the location of the regulator affect the function? Would an inch or two one way or the other not make the window work right? The motors are about 8 years old but they look exactly like the A1 motors. I do notice that mine only have one bracket where others have two brackets holding the regulator to the car. Again, these have been workin great for 8 years. There has to be someone out there who knows about window motors?

I have to say in my long tenure of owning Deloreans, working inside the door has so far been the worst. The design of the inside door handle is absolutely terrible. Then you combine all the crazy positions you have to be in to work on a gullwing door. I would love to see how they put these together in the factory. Must have had a special tool or something.

[Dangermouse]

From what I understand when the window reaches is upper position the motor stops as there is no more movement available. In essence everything locks up.

But when the plastic guide breaks the worm is able to escape, so to speak, so the motor is able to keep running. You may be able to tie up the plastic guides to stop the worm gear getting out, but normally it's time for a new window actuator.

The OEM and A1 motors look identical, but the A1 units come with a metal guide rather than the plastic.

[Totally 80s]

From what I understand when the window reaches is upper position the motor stops as there is no more movement available. In essence everything locks up.

But when the plastic guide breaks the worm is able to escape, so to speak, so the motor is able to keep running. You may be able to tie up the plastic guides to stop the worm gear getting out, but normally it's time for a new window actuator.

The OEM and A1 motors look identical, but the A1 units come with a metal guide rather than the plastic.

My guide is metal not OEM. The only thing I can think of is something broke inside the regulator. I can still use the regulator I just have to be careful to stop it right at the top.

Tying up the worm wouldn't help because it has to come out of the sleeve about an inch and a half to fully close the window. Once the window is closed the worm still tries to come out and kind of bends on itself and the glass making a terrible noise when you roll it back down.
I appreciate the feedback keep it comin.

[Dangermouse]

That's very odd.

With my OEM one, with the plastic guide broken, the worm would spiral out of the guide once the top of the window reached the top of the opening until it was all out of the little gearbox and then it would click-click until I released the switch.

Once I had secured the guide, the window reaches its upper position without any need for the worm to spiral out.

[DSNW Toby]

There are at least two attachment points for the window motor / regulator. One is that little metal arm that you feature in the first picture. The second is generally a bolt through a tab that is welded onto the guide tube of the regulator and attaches to the armrest bracket. If the second bolt has fallen out, the entire motor will swing in an arc (down and forward) when the window gets to the top of its travel. As the motor swings downward, the "worm" will come out the top of the guide tube as it tries to seat the glass into the upper channel. Have a look at the second attachment and let us know what you find.

[Totally 80s]

There are at least two attachment points for the window motor / regulator. One is that little metal arm that you feature in the first picture. The second is generally a bolt through a tab that is welded onto the guide tube of the regulator and attaches to the armrest bracket. If the second bolt has fallen out, the entire motor will swing in an arc (down and forward) when the window gets to the top of its travel. As the motor swings downward, the "worm" will come out the top of the guide tube as it tries to seat the glass into the upper channel. Have a look at the second attachment and let us know what you find.

Toby I think you solved the problem. I didn't know that the arm rest bracket was supposed to be welded. Looks like (if it is supposed to be welded to the worm arm) that the weld has snapped. That arm serves two functions I've learned as well. It keeps the motor from swinging back and it keeps the arm elevated so it won't scratch the glass. I am going to try to JB weld the arm back to the bracket and be careful. If that doesn't work I'll remove it and have a shop weld it back on.

Here is a video so you can see it in all its awfulness.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8IEpNJ2fXiY