Valve Cover gasket sealer

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have developed a drivers side valve cover leak. My car has been sitting for 3 months or more and a drive today just showed this up. Both sides did have a little "weep" at the back corner but this is quite a larger leak, dripping onto the CAT so it smokes.

What has everbody found to be the best way to seal the valve cover gaskets?

[DMCMW Dave]

I have developed a drivers side valve cover leak. My car has been sitting for 3 months or more and a drive today just showed this up. Both sides did have a little "weep" at the back corner but this is quite a larger leak, dripping onto the CAT so it smokes.

What has everbody found to be the best way to seal the valve cover gaskets?

Permatex "the right stuff".

[Jeffu]

Permatex "the right stuff".

+1 Yep, great stuff

[Bitsyncmaster]

Permatex "the right stuff".

Do you apply it to the standard gasket?

[Jeffu]

Do you apply it to the standard gasket?

Yes, I did at least. On my rececent rebuild I applied a small amount on both sides of the gasket. I have 2,800 miles and no indications of any leaks or seeps on my valve covers.

[Josh]

I purchased valve cover gaskets but did not install them dry.

I first sanded down the mating surfaces lightly with a scotch brite pad. I then put a small bead of anaerobic sealant on both surfaces and smoothed it out with my finger.

The gasket and cover were then installed and all bolts torqued to 12NM

[r00b]

I cleaned the surfaces and used Hervey's thicker gaskets dry http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/engine.html.

[jawn101]

+1 on Right Stuff on the OEM (or OEM style, got them from Dave and Julee) gaskets. Seals up tight.

[DMC5180]

This brings up a question of when to use a sealant. Example: You just did a head gasket job which says you should re-torque the head bolts after a certain time period. So would you go with a NEW dry gasket for the short term then apply sealant on the second installation After Re-torque. Or just get 2 sets of rocker cover gaskets in anticipation of doing this. Just How good does this great stuff Stick? Nothing like having to chisel off OLD stuck on Gaskets. What about using RED High tack gasket sealer? The stuff in the spray can.

[jawn101]

This brings up a question of when to use a sealant. Example: You just did a head gasket job which says you should re-torque the head bolts after a certain time period. So would you go with a NEW dry gasket for the short term then apply sealant on the second installation After Re-torque. Or just get 2 sets of rocker cover gaskets in anticipation of doing this. Just How good does this great stuff Stick? Nothing like having to chisel off OLD stuck on Gaskets. What about using RED High tack gasket sealer? The stuff in the spray can.

Agreed that it will be a PITA to chisel off the right stuff from the heads and cover, but it does stay nice and pliable at least. Biggest concern I'd have would be chunks of gasket falling into the valve train. You're probably right that the high tack would work too, and that stuff just wipes off with acetone.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Was going to pull the valve cover and.......The bolts are all loose. Think I will just torque them up and see if it stops the leak.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Was going to pull the valve cover and.......The bolts are all loose. Think I will just torque them up and see if it stops the leak.

With the valve cover bolts all torqued to 110 in/lbs, I still get a little drip of oil on the back corner of the valve cover.

But all the bolts on both valve covers were loose. How often do we need to re torque those bolts?

[Bitsyncmaster]

I've decided to order a new set of valve cover gaskets and will be sure to use plenty of "the right suff" on the rear ends.

[kings1527]

The first time, I used Permatex Gray RTV and never had a problem but the second time I used The Right Stuff based off of everyone's suggestions and it's been great, too. It seeps out a bit when you put the covers back on but after it's dry, it's pretty easy to peel away the excess for a cleaner look.

[mluder]

Under the advice of Toby at DMCNW I used spray copper gasket sealer. Seems to have worked great and no leaks over a year later.

http://www.2wheelpros.com/permatex-copper-spray-a-gasket-9-oz-2359961.html?gclid=CIDZue7UgboCFaU9QgodBVsA3g

Cheers
Steven

[jawn101]

With the valve cover bolts all torqued to 110 in/lbs, I still get a little drip of oil on the back corner of the valve cover.

But all the bolts on both valve covers were loose. How often do we need to re torque those bolts?

I had this happen to me too. It was crazy. We went to remove the valve covers for an unrelated job and found them barely held on after our last job. Thought we had just forgotten to tighten them (a scary thought), but maybe we did after all!

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got new gaskets and a new can of the "right stuff". Pulled the drivers side cover and cleaning up the mating surfaces. So do I just put the sealer onto both sides of the gasket, both cover and head surface and assemble them tight immediately?

[David T]

Got new gaskets and a new can of the "right stuff". Pulled the drivers side cover and cleaning up the mating surfaces. So do I just put the sealer onto both sides of the gasket, both cover and head surface and assemble them tight immediately?

On valve covers I usually only put sealer on the cover side. That way the gasket stays with the cover so you don't have to scrape it off of the cylinder head on the motor. If you torque it up to the right spec it shouldn't loosen or leak. And if you remove the valve cover to adjust the valves you can usually reuse the gasket.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I installed the driver’s side new gasket. First time I used that "right stuff". It's still pretty messy when you put the cover on. I put the sealer on the cover, set the gasket on that, and then put the sealer on that gasket side. You would have a hard time putting sealer on the head side with the AC compressor hoses in the way.

Next time (passenger side) I will have a few dowel rods in my hand when I put the cover on so it does not slide.

I torqued the bolts to 110 in/lbs and with check them again in the morning before I test for leaks.

[Bitsyncmaster]

About one hour after installing that new gasket I got a headache. I still have a minor one today. Wondering if contact with that sealer caused it. Anyone else have that problem. Think I will wear gloves next time I use it.

[jawn101]

About one hour after installing that new gasket I got a headache. I still have a minor one today. Wondering if contact with that sealer caused it. Anyone else have that problem. Think I will wear gloves next time I use it.

Never had that, but everyone's body chemistry differs. I always wear gloves with that stuff though, it gets into my fingertips and takes weeks to wear off. A testament to how good a sealer it is, I guess :)

[DMCVegas]

Never had that, but everyone's body chemistry differs. I always wear gloves with that stuff though, it gets into my fingertips and takes weeks to wear off. A testament to how good a sealer it is, I guess :)

:werd:

I can vouch for that as well. It's great though not just for mating surfaces, but for sculpting as well. I even repaired a door seal by squiring some out and using my fingers to fill in the missing chunks and to patch the rips. Does great as well for sealing holes like silicone and even temporarily for tiny hose leaks.

[David T]

:werd:

I can vouch for that as well. It's great though not just for mating surfaces, but for sculpting as well. I even repaired a door seal by squiring some out and using my fingers to fill in the missing chunks and to patch the rips. Does great as well for sealing holes like silicone and even temporarily for tiny hose leaks.

Probably more to do with breathing in any vapors, not contact with skin. Read the packaging, it probably says to use with adequate ventilation.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Took the car for a drive and the new gasket and sealer worked great. Dry as a bone. Now will do the passenger side. I've developed and idle hunt which probably is the ISM sticking from not running much this year.

[DMCVegas]

Probably more to do with breathing in any vapors, not contact with skin. Read the packaging, it probably says to use with adequate ventilation.

Oh most definitely. I was referring to the fact of how that stuff just won't come off of your hands. It will get down between the ridges in your fingertips, and you can't scrub it out. You've just got to let it wear off as your skin naturally sheds, and in the mean time it looks like a photonegative of your fingerprints. The stuff works that well.

The MSDS shows that inhalation is a hazard, and headaches are the exact symptoms described as a effect. When working with any chemicals you ALWAYS want to ensure good ventilation. I would also add safety goggles to that list as well. You don't want to end up like these guys:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vj2Pmp4yjv0/Tp0LS3DasdI/AAAAAAAACco/PZjPsxIn9DE/s1600/WRAITH-014.png

[NightFlyer]

The MSDS shows that inhalation is a hazard, and headaches are the exact symptoms described as a effect. When working with any chemicals you ALWAYS want to ensure good ventilation. I would also add safety goggles to that list as well. You don't want to end up like these guys:

http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-Vj2Pmp4yjv0/Tp0LS3DasdI/AAAAAAAACco/PZjPsxIn9DE/s1600/WRAITH-014.png

Who doesn't love a good swig of hydraulic fluid in the morning like Skank (shit got some kick)? After all, he was more intelligent than Gutter Boy :tongue2:

[Chris 16409]

I've been weeping oil from my driver's side valve cover. I tested the bolts securing it and they were loose. I torqued them to 15NM. Hopefully that will dry things up a bit.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Put the passenger side gasket on today. I left the muffler bracket bolted onto the valve cover and that made it hard to install (not to get the sealer on other things). But to get those bolts I would have to drop the alternator.

Leaving it overnight to check the torque again on the bolts.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Now that both covers are done, I must say the "Right Stuff" is quite a good sealer. Very messy since you get a lot applied via the aerosol type can. Also clearing the last used stuff takes a little time getting it out of the can tip. Not sure if another silicon sealer would work as good and cost less (can was $15).

I would guess it would seal fine without a gasket but then you would have a hard time to remove the cover later.

Would probably be a good idea to always have an extra set of gaskets saved in your work shop. The gaskets from DPI were very nice, cut perfectly and pretty stiff compared to the common black paper type.

I did get a lot of the sealer onto the bolt threads (not on purpose) so that may also keep them from getting loose.

[ChrisB]

Adjusted the valve clearances on both sides a week ago. Old gaskets came off nicely and appeared to be installed dry. All surfaces cleaned up nicely. Installed new gaskets from Houston dry, torqued to 8 ft-lbs. Had a leak on both sides toward the rear end so it smoked. Snugged up all bolts and the leaked decreased. Snugged up again and it may have decreased, but still there. Ordered the "Premium Rocker Cover Gaskets" from DeLorean Go. Will have a look at them today and decide about going the "The Right Stuff" route with the new gaskets.

[Michael]

I have been told (sternly warned) that Right Stuff will seal the covers so tight that you risk damaging them taking them off again. I used it in like 2007 or 08 and had no trouble at all removing the covers a few years ago on my last valve adjustment. I have also been told by a DMC vendor that the gaskets that DMC sells are prone to leaking. That said, I got a set of gaskets from DPI, (if memory serves) and applied a VERY thin coat of Right Stuff sealer on both sides of the gasket.


Zero leaks!


I plan to refinish the covers this winter in wrinkle red. I'll go the same route I did in 2019

[82DMC12]

I have DPI gaskets, but I use hylomar AF on both sides of it (very thin layer brushed on). The nice thing about Hylomar is it stays fluid and doesn't set, so it's very easy to clean both surfaces next time you take it apart. No scrapers or getting RTV into the heads. Just acetone on a rag. No oil leaks either.

[dn010]

I got valve cover gaskets from rockauto (AJUSA) - apparently the 1990 Eagle 3.0 gaskets are the same as DeLorean. I also used Hylomar on both and they didn't leak. I had to remove one cover to correct and issue and tried using shellac on it that time but whatever material the gaskets are made from, the shellac wouldn't bond if you can believe it. Used Hylomar again, still good to go.

[David T]

I got valve cover gaskets from rockauto (AJUSA) - apparently the 1990 Eagle 3.0 gaskets are the same as DeLorean. I also used Hylomar on both and they didn't leak. I had to remove one cover to correct and issue and tried using shellac on it that time but whatever material the gaskets are made from, the shellac wouldn't bond if you can believe it. Used Hylomar again, still good to go.

An old "trick" I learned about valve covers is to use a gasket sealer on the valve cover but NOT on the side of the gasket that seals the cylinder head. This way when you take the cover off the gasket will stay on the valve cover and come off cleanly from the head when you adjust the valves. It usually won't leak and if you need to replace the gasket you don't have to worry about it getting stuck to the cylinder head and getting debris into the motor. On the newer silicone gaskets you are not supposed to use RTV, it attacks the gasket and will cause a leak. If you do use RTV (silicone sealer) make sure to use one that says "Sensor Safe". When I first got my Delorean and did some work on it I also used Hylomar. I was very disappointed when I had leaks wherever I used it. I no longer use it and do not recommend it.

[ChrisB]

I got the premium gaskets from Go. They are the relatively thin paper type only a bit thicker and a bit more flexible. They looked good but I wanted some thickness for compliance over the step created where the timing cover interfaces with top of the head (not perfectly in my case). The step is on the lower part of the head and where the oil will naturally pool. This where my leaks were coming from, I believe. Since the leaky gaskets came off in good shape, I decided to just clean them up with an acetone/alcohol mix and reuse them. They cleaned up nicely. Applied the smallest bead I could from a tube of The Right Stuff...(turned out to be not that small) on the bottom of the gasket and installed it on the head. Then applied a bead in the top of the gasket, installed the cover, and torqued to 110 in-lbs. Glad my AC compressor was currently out of the car. I left the muffler bracket bolted onto the valve cover and was able to maneuver the cover out and back in carefully. I let the installed covers sit overnight and test ran the engine the next day with no leaks. Inspected the hot engine again a day later with no leaks. Have not retorqued anything. It took awhile for the cat to burn off the oil that had dripped down on it. It was great to be able to remove the dry original gaskets, I hope these will come off OK in the future. I would have liked to use a brush on product. The aerosol can that forces the right stuff out may have been easier to control and create a smaller bead along the center of the gasket.

[ChrisB]

Some pictures