Door Adjustment - Bounce limited by Door Roof Seal - Can this be normal?

[DrJeff]

So I've been adjusting torsion bars after fixing my roof separation problem - principally caused by bad door bounce on the RH side. I've got both doors at 5 splines so that the doors can get to the top of their travel. At 4 splines in Houston's current 75* weather, the doors stopped about 6-8 inches shy of the top of their travel. At 4 splines when it dropped to near freezing temperatures the other night (I presume freezing is somewhere below 50* given that I was literally freezing) the doors were ~1ft shy of fully open.

Video of Door Opening Comparison and Roof Seal Involvement (http://youtu.be/ZgJZPw4qyLo)

With both doors at 5 splines, we noticed that the LH door gently settles to the top of it's travel, however the RH door bounces at the top. We swapped the struts around to see if they were responsible. I've got Hervey's softlift struts on both doors. The struts made no difference to the door that settles (RH) and the door that bounces (LH). [Observation: the softlift struts do not appear to be making any difference to the smoothness of the door travel.]

What does seem to be different in the degree to which the door roof seal ( Part #106968 ) contacts the roof box section as the door opens. For the LH door, the seal is bent and pressed hard as the door opens (the squeaking rubber gives it away). For the LH door, the seal bends and flexes a little, but not much. The door seal however seems to be keeping the driver's door from bouncing at the top, but the door seal is not stopping the passenger's door from bouncing.

So a couple of questions...
1) Is the door seal supposed to be involved (squeaking) in the door travel and anti-bounce?
2) Is it common for there to be a difference in the distance between the top of the door edges and the roof box?

[Bitsyncmaster]

My door seals (top) are also very stiff and even lift the T-panel on the drivers side when the door is closed. Someday I plan to try some other design or find some new rubber to replace the thick rubber. My top seals are a few years old but not sure if they were NOS.

[SS Spoiler]

My car hasn't had seals for 26 years. No bind, no leaks, no problems.

[delornut]

I bought my DeLorean new in June of 1982. The roof to door seals lasted about two years so I replaced them. The new original seals I bought lasted less than two more years. Originals were rather thin rubber and some of those available now are too thick. I've just gone without them ever since. Those seals are primarily cosmetic as any water is channelled around the door and out the bottom.

Bruce Benson

[ALEXAKOS]

Mine did that on the passenger side. It kept lifiting the T panel up with a clonking noise.
I realized the door can be adjusted by a few millimeters before tightening the hinges bolts.
Try this with a second person for help:
- Remove the Strut
- Loosen all 4 Hinge bolts
- With the door open (upwards) tell your assistant to lift the door as high up as possible.
At the same time tighten the bolts.
- Finally push the rubber sealing so it curves downwards. See your passengers door the strips edge does not pop out when you open the door.

ALSO Yes, if you were missing that strip, I doubt there would be any less or more water coming in the cabin.