Clutch Slave Cylinder

[yuiou]

Hi,

I've read that the clutch slave cylinder is Bendix: FC-313211 from the cross reference list. However, I can't find anyone that sells it.

Does anyone know any other numbers for the slave cylinder?

Or the car it's from?

Thanks.

[Chris 16409]

You're in luck, I just bought one on RockAuto. Go search for a 1981 Renault Master Van on RockAuto. The slave is listed under manual transmission. It's about $100 and ships from England.

[rdarlington]

Hi,

I've read that the clutch slave cylinder is Bendix: FC-313211 from the cross reference list. However, I can't find anyone that sells it.

Thanks.

http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/clutch-transmission.html

Lifetime warranty. Get the bleeder hose, you won't be disappointed. John shipped mine attached already -just one less thing to worry about.

Ping me if you get stuck putting it in. It's easy and takes 5 minutes if you know how to do it. It took me about an hour to figure out.

[Josh]

You're in luck, I just bought one on RockAuto. Go search for a 1981 Renault Master Van on RockAuto. The slave is listed under manual transmission. It's about $100 and ships from England.

I payed $70 for my DMC slave. Not sure of the point of cross referencing when it works out to be $30 more...

[David T]

I payed $70 for my DMC slave. Not sure of the point of cross referencing when it works out to be $30 more...


If it isn't all corroded badly inside the bore it is very easy to rebuild them. Very little to it, a piston seal and a dust boot. The whole thing is if the internal bore is badly corroded it has to be sleeved. It works out that is is cheaper to replace it, at least for now. If the slave cylinder gets more expensive to buy it may make sense in the future to resleeve it. If the slave cylinder is leaking you should also replace the master cylinder and if you still have the plastic hose you should get the S/S braided hose. To keep them from leaking you should flush and bleed the system (and the brakes) every other year with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid, preferably Castrol. Check the little hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder. If it looks like it is "sweating" you should replace it too.

[Rich]

...If the slave cylinder is leaking you should also replace the master cylinder and if you still have the plastic hose you should get the S/S braided hose. To keep them from leaking you should flush and bleed the system (and the brakes) every other year with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid, preferably Castrol. Check the little hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder. If it looks like it is "sweating" you should replace it too.

+1

[Chris 16409]

I payed $70 for my DMC slave. Not sure of the point of cross referencing when it works out to be $30 more...

Now DMCH is charging $99 for their slaves. The slave I got from DMCH has failed prematurely. I have some kind of air leak in my clutch hydraulic system. Everything else has been replaced except for my slave, so that has to be the culprit. I would rather pay more for a part that comes from England/Europe than not knowing where DMC gets theirs. I had back luck with their master cylinders too. I was able to get a genuine Girling part from eBay.

[yuiou]

If it isn't all corroded badly inside the bore it is very easy to rebuild them. Very little to it, a piston seal and a dust boot. The whole thing is if the internal bore is badly corroded it has to be sleeved. It works out that is is cheaper to replace it, at least for now. If the slave cylinder gets more expensive to buy it may make sense in the future to resleeve it. If the slave cylinder is leaking you should also replace the master cylinder and if you still have the plastic hose you should get the S/S braided hose. To keep them from leaking you should flush and bleed the system (and the brakes) every other year with fresh DOT 4 brake fluid, preferably Castrol. Check the little hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder. If it looks like it is "sweating" you should replace it too.

Where would be the best/cheapest place to get the seals?

Thanks.

[Tillsy]

Check the little hose from the reservoir to the master cylinder. If it looks like it is "sweating" you should replace it too.

I would hold tight on that for the moment... I replaced mine last year because it had itsy bitsy "sweating" on it.

One year later I was investigating something unrelated and discovered that replacement line now has large "beading" on it.

MidWest are consulting with Huston what is going on here. Until we hear word back my advise would be replacing it with a DMC part is a total waste of time as the replacement is actually worse...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=22707&d=1382756147

[GS450-Junkie]

Isn't Dot 5 silicone preferable because it is not hygroscopic (water-absorbing)? Isn't moisture the main culprit of slave and master failure and the main reason why you need to flush the system every other year?

[David T]

Isn't Dot 5 silicone preferable because it is not hygroscopic (water-absorbing)? Isn't moisture the main culprit of slave and master failure and the main reason why you need to flush the system every other year?

That was the thinking behind many with classic cars converting to silicone. Silicone was developed mainly for racing because it can have a very high boiling point. Not very important to a street car. After being used for a while in classic cars some problems became evident. First off silicone is compressible to some extent because you you cannot get all of the air out. That turns a hydraulic system into a semi-pnuematic system and it now requires much more pedal travel. Some cars, especially older ones without power steering but with drum brakes, run out of pedal before you get full stopping power. You can't get a firm pedal, it's always "mushy". The bigger problem is that water is not misible with the silicone. What that means is they won't mix. Any moisture that gets into the system cannot be absorbed into the fluid like DOT 4. The water separates out into bubbles and pools in the system's low points. As opposed to air, you can't flush it out by bleeding (bleeding ports are at the high points of the system). Eventually it rots the steel parts.
DOT 4 does adsorb moisture from the air. As it does it lowers the boiling point and becomes acidic. By using a car on a regular basis you heat the brake fluid and much of that moisture is boiled off. When a car is used irregularly that doesn't happen. To prevent the internals from damage the safest thing to do is to flush and bleed the brakes and clutch at least every other year. Brake fluid is cheap compared to the price of the parts and the labor to replace them. The biggest problem is with finding "sleepers". Cars that haven't been touched in many years. Invariably the brake fluid has rotted the internals and you have to always figure on doing a complete rebuild of the brake and clutch hydraulics. If you don't, pistons will get stuck and/or the system will start leaking.

[Rich]

Where would be the best/cheapest place to get the seals?

A place that offers them is SpecialT/Hervey.

[Bitsyncmaster]

There are different types of internal parts in the slave. You will need to pull yours apart to order the correct parts from John. I did the same on my slave and it was very easy to rebuild.

[DrJeff]

A place that offers them is SpecialT/Hervey.

I rebuilt my clutch master and slave with the seal kits from Hervey (http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/clutch-transmission.html)and they worked fine. My barrels were still smooth and clean and it was the original seal that gave out on the slave cylinder.

[chrisp]

Hi all,

we discussed this hose issue in the German forum too an found a nice solution. The Mercedes part fits perfect an the quality are fine.