Power lock assessment

[djdogbone]

Ok,

So I bought my car a few months ago and I'm ready to tackle the power lock issue (or lack there of)

The "lock doors" light does turn on so I'm guessing that part of the system is active. I took apart the passenger side door and everything inside looks good. The door locks and unlocks with ease. The actuator is in there and does not seem bound up... Took it off to check it. All seems good.

It's dark out so I'll reassemble the door tomorrow. However, I have concerns about the driver side door.
the door does not seem to lock and unlock as easily... And there is a rattle as if the door I'd not fully latched.

Also, as I said, the actuators do not come to life so what should I be looking for in the door and in the fuse area?

-djd

[jmettee]

The light on the center console goes out when both doors are locked simply by completing a circuit in BOTH doors. You do not need to have a lock module in the circuit area or solenoids in the doors. MY car doesn't even have the lock module, but when I manually lock both doors the light goes out. It didn't used to be that way - the drivers door was not making contact when locked & I had to adjust it.

So just because your light on the console doesn't work, doesn't necessarily mean your lock module or system is bad (or vice versa). The module controls the solenoids & the indicator is a separate circuit from the module/solenoid circuit.

[David T]

Ok,

So I bought my car a few months ago and I'm ready to tackle the power lock issue (or lack there of)

The "lock doors" light does turn on so I'm guessing that part of the system is active. I took apart the passenger side door and everything inside looks good. The door locks and unlocks with ease. The actuator is in there and does not seem bound up... Took it off to check it. All seems good.

It's dark out so I'll reassemble the door tomorrow. However, I have concerns about the driver side door.
the door does not seem to lock and unlock as easily... And there is a rattle as if the door I'd not fully latched.

Also, as I said, the actuators do not come to life so what should I be looking for in the door and in the fuse area?

-djd

See if the big red wire to the door lock module is connected to the circuit breaker. You should cut an inline 10 amp fuse into the red wire. It is possible that the relays in the door lock module are fryed. It is also possible the solenoids in the doors are burnt. It is all fixable. You also need to go over the whole door adjustment procedure on both doors.

[Rich]

...I'm ready to tackle the power lock issue (or lack there of)

The "lock doors" light does turn on so I'm guessing that part of the system is active. I took apart the passenger side door and everything inside looks good. The door locks and unlocks with ease.

Since you are a new owner and you are scoping out all the things you may need to address on the door locks have you confirmed that the central locking function works - or tries to work - when prompted?

Unlocking/locking either door with key or with armrest switch unlock/locks opposite door simultaneously (p.6 of the DMC Owner's Handbook).

Central locking is of course not a required fix, merely a convenience you should know is already there - or is supposed to be there.

First things first, of course. The locking mechanism in each door is primary to this and you're on it.

[DeLorean03]

Get the new actuators to replace the solenoids from DMCNW/Toby Peterson: Click here. (http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K2500DP-CD&Category_Code=9401)

Get the new door lock module from DMCH: http://store.delorean.com/p-7206-door-lock-control-unit-digital.aspx

I only say this because I have zero experience with the old solenoids and factory door module. I got both upgrades and then trouble-shot my system knowing the "known problem areas" were no longer a factor.

[David T]

Get the new actuators to replace the solenoids from DMCNW/Toby Peterson: Click here. (http://www.delorean-parts.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=DPNW&Product_Code=K2500DP-CD&Category_Code=9401)

Get the new door lock module from DMCH: http://store.delorean.com/p-7206-door-lock-control-unit-digital.aspx

I only say this because I have zero experience with the old solenoids and factory door module. I got both upgrades and then trouble-shot my system knowing the "known problem areas" were no longer a factor.

Before you go "throwing parts" at the problem a little troubleshooting is in order. A new locking module and new actuators cannot correct door linkages that are out of adjustment. You can also test the door lock solenoids by applying ground and voltage directly to them. There is a great procedure for rewinding the solenoids if necessary and there are several improvements you can do the the OEM locking module if you can handle a soldering iron.

[DeLorean03]

Before you go "throwing parts" at the problem a little troubleshooting is in order. A new locking module and new actuators cannot correct door linkages that are out of adjustment. You can also test the door lock solenoids by applying ground and voltage directly to them. There is a great procedure for rewinding the solenoids if necessary and there are several improvements you can do the the OEM locking module if you can handle a soldering iron.

No argument from me - buying parts isn't going to solve the problem. The stock solenoids are known for being a problem area.

I never told him "Throw parts at the problem and hope it goes away...." - I told him to buy upgraded stuff and then start diagnosing the problem. For me, personally, I'd rather start with up-to-date stuff that has been proven to be reliable, cost-effective, and worth its money from multiple other DeLorean owners, and THEN start diagnosing things.

Different strokes for different folks.

OP, do whichever you prefer.

[David T]

No argument from me - buying parts isn't going to solve the problem. The stock solenoids are known for being a problem area.

I never told him "Throw parts at the problem and hope it goes away...." - I told him to buy upgraded stuff and then start diagnosing the problem. For me, personally, I'd rather start with up-to-date stuff that has been proven to be reliable, cost-effective, and worth its money from multiple other DeLorean owners, and THEN start diagnosing things.

Different strokes for different folks.

OP, do whichever you prefer.

Actually the solenoids are not the problem but rather the result of another problem. The original door lock module has relays inside that are undersized and will eventually weld the contacts together. When that happens the solenoids get burnt up because they are not meant to be energized continuously. Upgrading or replacing the module with a better one will prevent damaging the solenoids. Or you can just add the 10 amp fuse in the big red wire. It will blow if the module ever gets stuck before you damage the solenoids. If you find your solenoids are burnt they can be rewound by hand. Installing actuators is a good idea since it can save you a lot of weight in the door and loosen the torsion bar a notch. It is especially good if you install the remote opener. They are also expensive if that matters.