Drive Shaft Replacement. Lock tight? Torque? Bend the tabs over?

[Doogie]

OK, tomorrow I replace my axle shafts with rebuilt ones (all 4 boots on mine are torn, have been since ????). I've searched the forum and can't find anything too specific, so I thought I'd ask.

1) Can I get a socket on the bolts? (doesn't look like it). If not, is it just an open-end wrench 1/6 turn at a time? Ouch. OK, I'm a patient guy.
2) What should I torque the bolts too? If I can't get a socket on them, how do I use a torque wrench. Do I just make them "really tight?"
3) Should I use locktight? Blue or Red? None?
4) Am I supposed to bend over the tabs on the "shims" to prevent the bolts from working loose?
5) Is their an Inner and an outer direction? Or either way works fine? (remember I have a rebuilt set ready to go, does it matter which way the axle gets bolted in? If so, how do I tell which way is which?)

I certainly appreciate any advice you can give. thanks! Doogie

[Henrik]

OK, tomorrow I replace my axle shafts with rebuilt ones (all 4 boots on mine are torn, have been since ????). I've searched the forum and can't find anything too specific, so I thought I'd ask.

1) Can I get a socket on the bolts? (doesn't look like it). If not, is it just an open-end wrench 1/6 turn at a time? Ouch. OK, I'm a patient guy.
2) What should I torque the bolts too? If I can't get a socket on them, how do I use a torque wrench. Do I just make them "really tight?"
3) Should I use locktight? Blue or Red? None?
4) Am I supposed to bend over the tabs on the "shims" to prevent the bolts from working loose?
5) Is their an Inner and an outer direction? Or either way works fine? (remember I have a rebuilt set ready to go, does it matter which way the axle gets bolted in? If so, how do I tell which way is which?)

I certainly appreciate any advice you can give. thanks! Doogie

I repacked both of my driveshafts by following an excellent document. Start here: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cvjoint.htm and then look for where it says: "The website is "Tom's VW Page" , the CV joint part is here." Print out the tutorial cause, obviously you don't wanna have to scroll up and down on your laptop while your hands and arms are covered in grease :) I am not sure if it addresses all of your questions but it worked for me. BTW, you should have no problems getting your socket onto the hex bolts.

[DMC5180]

OK, tomorrow I replace my axle shafts with rebuilt ones (all 4 boots on mine are torn, have been since ????). I've searched the forum and can't find anything too specific, so I thought I'd ask.

1) Can I get a socket on the bolts? (doesn't look like it). If not, is it just an open-end wrench 1/6 turn at a time? Ouch. OK, I'm a patient guy.
2) What should I torque the bolts too? If I can't get a socket on them, how do I use a torque wrench. Do I just make them "really tight?"
3) Should I use locktight? Blue or Red? None?
4) Am I supposed to bend over the tabs on the "shims" to prevent the bolts from working loose?
5) Is their an Inner and an outer direction? Or either way works fine? (remember I have a rebuilt set ready to go, does it matter which way the axle gets bolted in? If so, how do I tell which way is which?)

I certainly appreciate any advice you can give. thanks! Doogie

1) Not unless you have an ultra-thin walled modified socket. I've Always used the Open end wrench method.
2) It's the standard torque for an M10 bolt. Torques are usually listed in the appropriate section of the WSM. See: RESOURCE SECTION for the WSM. If you have a 17MM or 11/16 Crowfoot adapter. Set at 90 degrees perpendicular the Head for accurate torque values.
3) Use Blue Loctite
4) IF you have actual Bendable tabs. YES. I don't recall mine having TAB LOCKS. Just the the 2 bolt ARC plate.
5) NOPE. & YES.

[David T]

I repacked both of my driveshafts by following an excellent document. Start here: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cvjoint.htm and then look for where it says: "The website is "Tom's VW Page" , the CV joint part is here." Print out the tutorial cause, obviously you don't wanna have to scroll up and down on your laptop while your hands and arms are covered in grease :) I am not sure if it addresses all of your questions but it worked for me. BTW, you should have no problems getting your socket onto the hex bolts.

You should be able to get a socket on the bolts. The torque spec is 30 ft/lbs. You lock the bolts with the metal tabs, no Locktite. The half-shafts can be installed either way. Be sure not to let the loose end hang or you will bend the outer cup and the boot will be be deformed.

[Doogie]

I repacked both of my driveshafts by following an excellent document. Start here: http://www.dmcnews.com/Techsection/cvjoint.htm and then look for where it says: "The website is "Tom's VW Page" , the CV joint part is here." Print out the tutorial cause, obviously you don't wanna have to scroll up and down on your laptop while your hands and arms are covered in grease :) I am not sure if it addresses all of your questions but it worked for me. BTW, you should have no problems getting your socket onto the hex bolts.

Thanks! I didn't think of spraying the hub bolt recesses with brake cleaner to flush them like he mentioned! great idea. Need to get some lock-tight and brake cleaner before i get on it. I'll check the manual, but he recommends about 35 ft/lb. is that what you remember? I need to throw my torque wrenches in the car tonight (doing it over at Ken K's)! Thanks!

doogie

[Josh]

You should be able to get a socket on the bolts. The torque spec is 30 ft/lbs. You lock the bolts with the metal tabs, no Locktite. The half-shafts can be installed either way. Be sure not to let the loose end hang or you will bend the outer cup and the boot will be be deformed.

I second this advice. I installed mine a few weeks back, got a socket on all of the bolts. All bolts torqued to 30ft-lbs. Just use an extension on your ratchet and do 3 bolts at a time (per cv) and put it in neutral and rotate the axle to get at the other 3.

[Doogie]

Thanks guys. Looks pretty straightforward. I have a helper, we should be able to get 'er done in what? 2-3 hours tops? I'll prolly take my time so as not to break any bolts if possible, and clean while we go also. My CV joints are not making any noises as far as I can tell, but all 4 boots are torn, have been for years, so time to get it fixed. Thanks for all the help! Doogie

[DeLorean03]

If you're using Ken's lift with pneumatics, you'll knock it out way quickly. Did this a couple times - not too bad a job especially with a lift.

1. Yes.
2. Follow the other's advice who already commented. I don't have my WSM with me.
3. None.
4. I had no tabs to bend on mine.
5. They go in either way.

You guys have fun tomorrow. Jessica and I may stop by Thursday night - we'll see. You doing it there?

[Doogie]

If you're using Ken's lift with pneumatics, you'll knock it out way quickly. Did this a couple times - not too bad a job especially with a lift.

1. Yes.
2. Follow the other's advice who already commented. I don't have my WSM with me.
3. None.
4. I had no tabs to bend on mine.
5. They go in either way.

You guys have fun tomorrow. Jessica and I may stop by Thursday night - we'll see. You doing it there?

Hey Guys! Dave H and I actually started @ 9:00 AM to start, as I had other things also I wanted to do while I had "lift time". The axles were very easy with the help from here. Took about 10-15 minutes to remove and about 15 minutes to install each new axle. I did end up going with Blue LockTite, and tightened everything to 30 ft/lbs. The old boots were all split in two and separated. Actually, this was a very simple job. SO GLAD I WAITED for the lift! Drove home about 20 miles tonight after replacing all 4 shocks and both drive axles, no problems.

Thanks gang! I appreciate it!

Doogie229262292522924229272292822929

[Josh]

Glad everything went well! That certainly would be easier on a lift!

[Dangermouse]

Well, they were certainly split!

I know you said that they weren't making any grinding noises beforehand, but I am curious as to whether the ride home was actually quieter?

[Doogie]

Well, they were certainly split!

I know you said that they weren't making any grinding noises beforehand, but I am curious as to whether the ride home was actually quieter?

Not really quieter that I could tell, but certainly more comfortable! It did seem to handle differently (looser) with the new shocks (I raised it off the ground with OEM shocks, DPO had installed the fronts in the rear and man did it sit low!). I've been avoiding driving it so as not to chew up the joints. With the shocks on now and raising it back up a bit, the boots should be fine I think.

Doogie

[Mike F]

Looks great! Where did you get the rebuilt axles? I'm planning to do this soon.

[Chris 16409]

I just had DPI refurbished cv axles installed on my car. During installion my buddies made the suggestion using Allan head bolts would make the job easier if we had to do it again. Has anybody substituted them for hex bolts?

[Josh]

I never thought of this. I think it would be a good upgrade. Lots of the VW guys run socket head bolts for their axles.

[Delorean Industries]

Here is what we normally use. Most cars unless specifically asked for standard hardware leave here with this. We rebuild lots of axles. I lost count long ago!